G2 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
January  16,  1896. 
only  as  much  as  can  have  exposure  to  light.  Surface-dress  the  soil  with 
short  manure,  and  when  roots  are  emitted  freely  from  the  collar  some 
turves  may  be  placed  arouad  the  rims  of  the  pots,  extending  about  a 
couple  of  inches  inside  and  over  them,  so  as  to  be  on  the  fermenting 
material.  The  roots  will  take  to  the  turves,  and  through  them  to  the 
bed  of  leaves.  Let  the  temperature  range  from  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70° 
to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat.  Ventilate  from  75°, 
allow  the  proper  advance  from  sun  influence,  and  close  early  so  as  to 
raise  and  maintain  a  temperature  of  85°  to  90°  with  the  aid  of  sun 
daring  the  early  part  of  the  afternoon.  This,  proper  supplies  of  phos¬ 
phoric  aqid,  potash  and  nigrogen  in  the  shape  of  superphosphate, 
sulphate  or  muriate  of  potash  and  nitrates,  or  their  equivalent 
ammoniacal  substance  as  sulphate  of  ammonia,  with  a  genial  atmosphere, 
is  the  way  to  have  fine  berries.  Avoid  syringing  the  foliage  after  the 
Grapes  commence  swelling,  as  there  is  always  danger  of  the  water 
leaving  a  deposit,  which  spoils  the  appearance  of  otherwise  well  grown 
and  finished  fruit.  There  must  not,  however,  be  any  deficiency  of 
atmospheric  moisture,  but  damp  the  floors  and  walls  in  the  morning, 
early  in  the  afternoon,  and  if  necessary  in  the  evening.  Evaporation 
troughs  keep  charged  with  weak  liquid  manure. 
Early  Houses. — If  any  Vines  were  started  in  November  or  early 
December  they  will  be  making  progress  and  need  the  greatest  care  in 
ventilating,  not  admitting  cold  air,  draughts  crippling  the  foliage  and 
rusting  the  berries,  and  both  on  that  account  are  unable  to  perform 
their  functions,  the  former  not  assimilating  food,  and  the  latter  not 
swelling  properly.  Disbud  and  tie  the  shoots  before  they  touch  the 
glass.  In  stopping,  which  should  be  done  when  the  leaf  at  the  joint  is 
about  the  size  of  a  halfpenny,  allowing  two  or  more  joints  of  growth 
beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  or  where  there  is  room,  do  not  confine  the 
stopping  to  any  given  number  of  joints  beyond  the  bunch,  but  extend 
the  growth  so  that  an  even  aud  ample  supply  of  foliage  will  be  insured. 
Crowding,  however,  is  very  disastrous,  therefore  allow  no  more  foliage  to 
be  made  than  can  have  full  exposure  to  light  and  air.  Remove  all 
superfluous  bunches  early,  incipient  clusters  being  inimical  to  a  good  set 
and  prompt  swelling  of  the  berries.  When  the  flowers  are  open  main¬ 
tain  the  temperature  night  and  day  at  70°  to  75°,  with  a  rather  dry 
atmosphere,  not  going  to  the  extreme  of  depriving  the  air  of  the  needful 
moisture  essential  to  the  health  of  the  foliage.  If  there  be  any  Muscat 
of  Alexandria  keep  the  points  of  the  bunches  well  up  to  the  light,  and 
fertilise  the  flowers  when  fit  with  pollen  from  other  free-setting  varieties. 
Houses  Started  at  the  New  Year. —  Many  growers  still  cling  to  the 
old-fashioned  Black  Hamburgh  and  Buckland  Sweetwater  or  Foster’s 
Seedling  as  the  best  for  early  marketing  purposes ;  but  some  prefer 
the  higher  quality  ‘Grapes,  as  Madresfield  Court  and  Muscat  of 
Alexandria,  and,  getting  good  samples  of  these  early  in  June,  make  a 
larger  margin  of  profit  and  a  surer  sale,  as  there  is  less  danger  of  a  glut, 
and  when  it  comes  to  choice  the  higher  quality  fruit  takes  precedence. 
The  borders  for  these  high-class  varieties  require  to  be  wholly  inside, 
and  to  be  composed  of  thoroughly  sound  materials  over  perfect  drainage, 
then  they  are  as  easily  managed  as  other  Grapes,  if  care  is  given  to 
the  setting  of  the  fruit.  Duke  of  Buccleuch  is  superior  when  put  in  the 
market  in  good  condition,  but  it  is  a  bad  traveller  compared  with  the 
Muscats,  as  its  skin  discolours  with  the  slightest  joll  of  one  berry 
against  another,  and  that  is  pretty  often  in  sending  by  rail.  With  a 
proper  moisture  at  the  roots,  and  a  genial  atmosphere,  the  Vines 
previously  forced  30on  break,  especially  if  a  little  manure  water  is  used 
for  sprinkling  the  floors.  Sprinkle  the  rods  two  or  three  times  a  day 
with  clear  (liquid  manure  encourages  aerial  roots)  water,  maintaining  a 
temperature  of  50°  to  55°  at  night,  60°  to  65°  by  day,  ventilating  freely 
above  G5°.  For  Muscats,  allow  5°  more  all  round.  The  rods  and  canes 
of  young  Vines  should  be  slung  in  a  horizontal  position  to  secure  the 
buds  starting  evenly. 
Late  Houses. — Thick-skinned  Grapes  require  to  be  kept  cool  and 
uniform  in  temperature.  This  can  hardly  be  assured  to  them  on  the 
Vines  after  the  sun  gains  power  without  covering  the  lights.  However, 
we  have  not  found  the  Grapes  keep  so  well  on  the  Vines  as  in  a  suitable 
Grape  room,  which  means  any  dry  compartment  from  which  frost  is 
excluded  and  not  liable  to  sudden  fluctuations.  The  Grapes  should  be 
cut  with  as  much  wood  as  can  be  spared,  the  stems  placed  in  bottles 
filled  with  soft  water,  each  containing  a  few  pieces  of  charcoal.  The 
bottles  must  be  fixed  in  an  inclining  position,  so  as  to  admit  of  the 
bunches  hanging  clear  of  the  sides,  and  they  may  be  as  far  apart  as  not 
to  allow  the  bunches  to  touch  each  other.  Keep  the  temperature  of  the 
room  at  40°  to  45°,  examining  the  bunches  occasionally  for  decayed 
berries,  which  must  be  carefully  removed.  The  Vines  should  then  be 
pruned,  dressing  the  cuts  carefully,  and  that  part  only,  with  styptic  or 
patent  knotting.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  removing  the  loose 
bark  from  the  Vines,  but  not  peeling,  scraping,  and  scrubbing  them  so 
as  to  injure  the  living  bark.  Wash  them  with  a  mixture  of  3  or  4  ozs. 
of  softsoap  to  a  gallon  of  water.  If  there  has  been  any  red  spider  or 
other  insect  pests  follow  with  an  approved  insecticide,  or  if  mildew  has 
been  troublesome  use  a  10  per  cent,  solution  (1  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water) 
on  young  Vines,  and  a  15  per  cent.  (1J  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water)  on  old 
rods,  of  sulphate  of  iron,  applying  with  a  brush.  Air  should  be  admitted 
freely  in  favourable  weather,  seeking  to  give  the  Vines  as  long  and 
complete  a  rest  as  possible.  Where  the  borders  are  not  satisfactory  lift 
the  roots  and  relay  them  in  fresh  compost,  and  where  the  Vines  have 
inside  and  outside  borders  the  renovation  may  be  accomplished  without 
loss  of  crop  by  renewing  the  former  one  year,  and  the  latter  the  next. 
Melons. — As  the  seedlings  grow  add  a  little  warm  soil,  keeping  them 
near  the  glass,  and  look  out  for  slugs.  Soil  should  be  placed  under 
cover,  so  as  to  become  dried  preparatory  to  forming  into  ridges  or  hillocks 
in  the  Melon  bouse.  Good  turfy  loam,  rather  strong  than  light,  is 
suitable  for  Melons,  and  if  it  has  been  laid  up  in  ridges  so  as  to  reduce 
the  herbage  it  will  be  in  a  fit  condition  for  the  purpose.  If  deficient  of 
grit  add  a  fifth  of  road  scrapings,  and  if  not  calcareous  a  similar  propor¬ 
tion  of  old  mortar  rubbish.  If  there  is  need  of  manure,  horse  droppings 
are  good  and  not  liable  to  encourage  eelworm.  The  mixture,  in  that 
case,  would  consist  of  four  parts  loam,  one  part  each  of  horse  droppings, 
road  scrapings  and  lime  rubbish.  For  frame  culture  seed  should  be 
sown  early  in  next  month.  The  materials  should  be  prepared  and  the 
bed  made  up  forthwith  in  the  manner  described  below  for  Cucumbers. 
Raising  Cucumber  Plants  In  Frames. — Most  people  make  a 
point  of  having  fruit  by  Easter.  The  weather  has  much  to  do  with 
producing  Cucumbers  early,  and  the  means  at  command  make  often  just 
all  the  difference  between  one  gardener  having  them  by  a  given  time  and 
another  not.  The  period  of  starting  has  something  to  do  with  matters 
of  this  kind,  but  there  is  little  gained  in  time  and  certainly  much 
expended  in  labour  and  material  by  commencing  early.  Indeed,  we 
have  found  that  early  February  is  a  good  time  to  start  seeds  for  raising 
plants  to  fruit  from  April  onwards.  The  material  for  making  up  the 
bed  being  collected,  two  parts  leaves  and  one  part  stable  litter  should  be 
thrown  together  in  a  heap,  moistening  if  necessary,  and  when  warm 
turning  outside  to  inside,  again  sprinkling  with  water  if  any  parts  are 
too  dry,  will  part  with  rank  steam  and  induce  a  sweet  regular  heat.  A 
site  for  a  bed  should  be  chosen  with  full  south  exposure  and  having 
shelter  to  the  north  as  that  of  a  hedge  or  wall.  If  the  ground  be  rather 
higher  than  the  surrounding  level  all  the  better.  The  bed  should  be 
about  5  feet  high  at  back  and  4  feet  6  inches  in  front,  which  will  allow 
for  setting,  as  it  will  do  about  one-third,  and  it  should  be  18  inches  larger 
all  round  than  the  box  to  be  placed  on  it.  In  forming  the  bed  beat  the 
sweetened  dung  and  leaves  well  down  with  the  fork  as  the  work  proceeds, 
and  a  few  peasticks  placed  across  and  along  the  bed  at  intervals  not  only 
prevents  overheating,  but  admits  heat  from  linings  being  conveyed  to 
the  interior  of  the  bed.  For  early  work  frames  with  double  sides  are 
preferable,  half-inch  boards  9  inches  in  depth  at  the  back  and  6  inches 
in  front  less  than  the  box  being  secured  to  the  inside,  nailing  strips  of 
wood  an  inch  wide  and  thick  vertically  to  the  box,  then  the  boards, 
which  form  an  inch  cavity  all  around  the  inside,  and  thus  heat  is  got  in 
the  atmosphere  from  the  linings.  In  about  a  week  from  making  up  the 
bed  the  heat  will  be  up.  Level  the  bed,  replace  the  box,  apply  sufficient 
sweetened  material  to  raise  the  inside  within  2  or  3  inches  of  the  top  of 
the  inner  frame  or  cavity,  placing  sawdust,  dry  leaf  soil  or  spent  tan  for 
plunging  the  pots  in.  To  raise  the  plants  half  fill  3-inch  pots  with  rich 
light  loam,  placing  one  seed  in  the  centre  of  each  pot,  covering  with  fine 
moist  soil,  so  that  no  water  is  required  for  the  germination  of  the  seed. 
Space  is  thus  left  in  the  pots  for  top-dressing,  which  is  preferable  to 
potting  the  seedlings.  Cover  the  pots  with  a  square  of  glass,  which 
hastens  the  germination,  but  remove  it  as  soon  as  the  plants  appear.  The 
plants  from  a  sowing  made  early  in  February  will  be  fit  to  plant  out 
early  in  March. 
Cucumbers  in  Houses. — To  maintain  steady  progress  in  the  plants  and 
secure  clear  straight  fruit  the  temperature  should  be  maintained  at  65° 
at  night,  5°  more  in  mild  and  5°  less  in  very  severe  weather,  70°  to  75° 
by  day  from  fire  heat,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun.  When  the  external 
air  is  mild  a  little  ventilation  may  be  given  at  80°,  closing  before  the 
temperature  is  reduced  below  that  degree,  but  it  is  better  to  close  so  as  to 
secure  90°  to  95°  in  the  early  afternoon,  and  at  all  times  exclude  external 
cold  air,  which  injures  the  foliage  and  causes  the  fruit  to  become  stunted 
and  to  curl  at  the  end.  Plants  in  bearing  will  require  to  be  examined 
about  twice  a  week,  removing  all  weakly  and  exhausted  growths, 
reserving  as  much  of  the  young  bearing  wood  as  is  necessary  for  filling 
the  allotted  space,  stopping  the  shoots  at  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the 
fruit.  Young  plants  coming  into  bearing  must  not  be  cropped  too 
heavily,  giving  them  all  the  assistance  possible,  removing  the  male 
flowers,  also  surplus  female  blossoms  as  they  appear.  Let  the  root  and 
atmospheric  moisture  be  governed  by  the  condition  of  the  soil  and  external 
circumstances.  Avoid  overwatering,  and  supplying  liquid  manure  when 
vigour  is  needed.  Except  on  very  fine  days  syringing  should  not  be 
practised  over  the  foliage,  a  light  sprinkling  on  fine  afternoons  being 
beneficial ;  but  damp  the  floors,  &c„  moderately  at  about  8  a  m.  and 
2  P.M.,  also  in  the  evening  if  the  surfaces  become  dry.  Encourage  the 
roots  to  spread  on  the  surface  of  the  bed  by  adding  a  little  fresh  lumpy 
loam  from  time  to  time,  and  feed  them  with  a  duBting  occasionally  of 
some  approved  fertiliser,  say  a  small  handful  per  square  yard.  If  there 
be  any  lack  of  colour  in  the  foliage  or  fruit  use  that  amount  of  light  dry 
soot,  the  nitrogen  and  mineral  matters  of  this  substance  encouraging  the 
development  of  chlorophyll.  If  aphides  appear  fumigate  on  two  con¬ 
secutive  evenings.  Dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur  on  the  appearance  of 
mildew,  and  arrest  canker  by  rubbing  quicklime  into  the  affected  parts. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Antirrhinums. — The  value  of  Antirrhinums  as  bedding  plants  is 
becoming  generally  appreciated.  Some  of  the  strains  are  sufficiently 
gay  and  continuous  flowering  to  justify  their  being  planted  in  the  most 
prominent  beds.  In  some  instances  the  best  whites,  yellows,  and 
crimsons  have  been  selected,  and  the  stocks  increased  by  means  of 
cuttings  rooted  in  the  autumn  with  Calceolarias  and  Violas.  They  can, 
however,  be  depended  on  to  come  true  to  name  from  seeds  obtained 
from  reliable  sources,  and  in  order  to  have  abundance  of  strong  plants 
for  the  flower  beds  in  May  these  should  be  procured  and  sown  at  once 
