84 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  23,  1696. 
applications  induce  actiye  fibrous  roots  near  the  surface  for  appropriating 
the  food  supplied. 
Cherry  House. — Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides,  which  seem  to 
come  into  activity  with  the  expanding  buds,  evidently  emerging  from 
the  eggs  simultaneously  with  the  casting  of  the  bud  scales,  and  at  once 
fastening  on  the  growths.  This  they  must  be  prevented  doing  by 
fumigating  so  as  to  thoroughly  annihilate  the  pests,  for  it  is  essential 
that  the  blossoms  be  perfectly  developed.  Syringe  the  trees  up  to  the 
blossom  showing  white,  but  cease  then,  damping  the  paths  and  border 
instead  and  ventilating  freely.  Keep  the  house  at  40°  by  night,  45°  to 
50°  by  day  by  artificial  means,  ventilating  at  50°,  and  allowing  a  rise  of 
10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat,  with  full  ventilation,  closing  the  house  for  the 
day  at  50°.  Examine  the  border,  and,  if  there  be  a  deficiency  of  moisture, 
supply  water  so  as  to  moisten  the  soil  down  to  the  drainage,  and  attend 
regularly  to  the  needs  of  trees  in  pots. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — The  plants  introduced  early  in  December 
have  pushed  the  flower  scapes  simultaneously  with  the  leaves,  and 
minute  aphides  are  showing  themselves.  Where  this  is  the  case 
fumigating  must  be  had  recourse  to  so  as  to  compass  their  destruction 
before  the  flowers  expand.  Damp  the  paths  in  the  morning  and  early 
afternoon,  and  keep  the  temperature  at  from  50°  to  55°  artificially, 
with  an  advance  of  10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat.  On  bright  days  the  plants 
as  well  as  the  paths  should  be  syringed,  as  evaporation  will  take  place 
much  more  rapidly,  and  the  atmosphere  will  become  sufficiently  dry 
before  dark.  Lose  no  opportunity  of  closing  early,  so  as  to  raise  the 
temperature  to  70°  to  75°  from  sun  heat.  Allow  the  temperature  to  fall 
to  50°  at  night,  5°  higher  if  the  weather  be  mild.  Look  the  plantB 
over  daily  for  watering,  giving  those  in  need  a  thorough  supply. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Beet. — In  many  gardens  last  season  the  Beet  crop  was  either  a 
partial  or  complete  failure,  and  as  a  consequence  the  roots  are  scarce. 
In  order  to  avoid  having  a  gap  in  the  supply,  the  attempt  should  be 
made  to  grow  an  extra  early  crop.  Under  frame  culture  tender  well- 
coloured  roots  could  be  had  fit  for  use  early  in  May,  and  it  is  possible  to 
pull  good  roots  in  the  open  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  June.  The 
Turnip-rooted  section,  of  which  Crimson  Ball  is  a  good  selection,  is  the 
best  for  early  sowing.  Sow  now  thinly  in  pans  or  boxes  of  light  loamy 
soil,  and  place  in  gentle  heat  to  germinate.  Before  the  seedlings 
become  drawn  raise  them  well  up  to  the  glass,  hardening  somewhat  if 
intended  for  frames,  and  thoroughly  if  they  are  to  be  transplanted  to  a 
south  border  early  in  April.  A  mild  bottom  heat  suffices  in  the  case  of 
frame  culture;  the  soil  should  be  raised  well  up  to  the  glass  and  made 
firm.  Plenty  of  light  and  air  must  be  admitted  to  the  plants,  or  they 
will  not  “bulb  ”  satisfactorily. 
Peas  in  Pots. — The  crops  obtained  under  pot  culture  are  never 
heavy,  but  if  early  dishes  are  particularly  wanted  then  it  pays  to  grow 
them.  There  should  be  four  dozen  pots  sown  at  a  time.  Hard  forcing 
must  not  be  attempted,  and  for  this  reason  the  sooner  a  sowing  is 
made  the  greater  the  likelihood  of  dishes  of  Peas  being  had  early  in 
May.  Chelsea  Gem  and  William  Hurst  are  among  the  best  of  the  dwarf 
varieties  for  pot  culture,  These  would  answer  well  in  the  case  of 
sowings  that  are  to  be  grown  on  shelves  and  stagings  in  9-inch  and 
10-inch  pots  ;  but  if  there  is  sufficient  head  room,  then  taller  varieties, 
including  Duke  of  Albany,  may  be  substituted,  and  larger  pots  may  be 
used.  Sow  thinly  and  cover  with  2  inches  of  soil.  Place  in  gentle  heat, 
or  say  in  a  newly  started  Peach  house  or  vinery,  and  avoid  saturating 
the  soil. 
Peas  in  Frames. — In  pits,  glazed  or  otherwise,  and  in  ordinary 
garden  frames  dwarf  Peas  succeed  well.  All  they  need  is  a  good  start, 
plenty  of  nourishing  light  and  air  directly  they  are  well  established,  and 
rough  protection  from  frosts  and  frosty  winds.  Transplanting  promotes 
a  sturdy,  early,  productive  growth,  and  should  be  practised.  Raise  the 
plants  in  gentle  heat  with  a  view  to  having  them  sturdy  when  wanted 
for  the  frames.  When  about  2  inches  high  they  ought  to  be  planted  out, 
longer  delay  resulting  in  premature  flowering.  Prepare  a  firm,  mild 
hotbed,  only  enough  heat  to  give  the  plants  a  good  start  being  required, 
and  on  this  place  a  thin  layer  of  decayed  manure  and  8  inches  of  light 
loamy  soil.  Plant  thickly  in  deep  drills  15  inches  apart,  and  lightly 
stake  at  once,  a  quick-growing  Cabbage  Lettuce,  to  be  planted  midway 
between  the  rows  of  Peas,  more  than  repaying  for  all  the  trouble 
taken. 
Peas  for  the  Open  Borders. — Raising  under  glass  and  planting  out 
early  Peas  usually  means  a  gain  of  from  a  week  to  ten  days,  those  sown 
in  the  open  where  they  are  to  crop  invariably  giving  later  if  heavier 
supplies.  Sowing  in  boxes,  troughs  and  pots,  much  as  advised  in  the 
case  of  frame  crops  in  January,  and  placing  in  a  comparatively  cool 
house  for  the  seed  to  germinate,  answers  better  than  sowing  a  fortnight 
or  three  weeks  later  in  heat.  Exonian,  William  I.,  and  other  superior 
early  varieties  are  all  suitable  for  raising  unler  glass  and  planting  out  ; 
while  if  Duke  of  Albany  is  similarly  treated,  and  topped  occasionally 
when  growing  and  flowering  freely,  a  very  close  succession  will  be  the 
result. 
Early  Lettuces. — Early  Paris  Market  and  Golden  Queen  Cabbage 
Lettuces  are  both  amenable  to  gentle  forcing,  and  can  be  had  remark¬ 
ably  good  out  of  frames,  a  mild  bottom  heat  only  being  needed.  Sow 
the  seed  at  once,  thinly,  in  pans  and  boxes,  and  place  in  a  moderately 
strong  heat  to  germinate,  transferring  to  shelves  near  to  the  glass  when 
the  plants  are  up.  Soon  after  they  have  formed  a  second  rough  leaf 
prepare  hotbed  of  leaves  and  manure,  placing  enough  of  the  same 
material  inside  the  frame  to  raise  6  inches  of  good  loamy  soil  well  up  to 
the  glass.  Directly  this  has  become  warmed  through,  and  there  is  no 
likelihood  of  overheating  taking  place,  prick  out  the  plants  4  inches 
apart  each  way,  eventually  cutting  one-half  for  use  before  they  have 
actually  hearted  in,  and  leaving  the  rest  to  attain  to  their  full  size. 
During  cold  nights  the  frames  ought  to  be  heavily  protected,  and  being 
otherwise  well  tended  the  growth  of  the  plants  should  be  rapid  and  the 
quality  of  Lettuces  of  the  best. 
Raising-  Cauliflower  Plants. — Unless  autumn  raised  plants  are 
plentiful  an  early  sowing  of  seed  should  now  be  made.  The  forcing 
varieties  are  the  best  for  giving  extra  early  hearts,  and  these  also  might 
be  grown  in  pits  or  frames  if  desirable.  Either  Early  London  or  Erfurt 
Mammoth  would  form  a  good  succession,  and  if  Magnum  Bonum  and 
Yeitch’s  Autumn  Giant  were  raised  at  the  same  time  quite  a  long 
succession  would  result.  Sow  thinly,  and  subject  to  gentle  heat. 
Turnips. — These  are  abundant  enough,  but  if  the  mild  weather  lasts 
an  early  growth  of  greens  will  take  place,  and  the  roots  be  spoilt  for 
cooking.  If,  therefore,  a  good  supply  of  the  roots  have  not  been  stored 
there  ought  to  be  no  further  delay  in  the  matter.  Select  those  of 
medium  size,  top  them,  and  store  in  heaps.  Be  careful  not  to  mix  the 
varieties.  They  would  keep  in  cool  sheds  and  cellars,  or  they  may  be 
“  pitted  ”  quite  in  the  open,  covering  with  straw  and  soil.  Those  that 
have  been  so  stored  for  some  time  past  ought  to  be  examined,  and,  if 
need  be,  turned  and  cleared  of  shoots.  Place  roots  of  Swedish  Turnips 
in  a  warm  dark  cellar.  They  will  give  a  supply  of  tender  blanched 
growths  that  may  be  used  similarly  to  Seakale,  and  will,  perhaps,  be 
acceptable,  especially  if  all  other  green  vegetables  are  scarce. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Adlantum  cuneatum. — From  a  number  of  these  all  the  fronds 
useful  for  cutting  may  have  been  removed.  This  will  certainly  be  the 
case  if  the  plants  have  been  in  a  fairly  warm  temperature.  Too  much 
heat  and  moisture  settling  on  the  fronds  soon  turns  them  brown  and 
unsuitable  for  use.  Plants  in  this  condition  may  be  cut  close  over 
before  young  fronds  push  up.  Where  plants  have  been  kept  cooler  and 
not  syringed  good  fronds  will  be  plentiful  for  some  time.  Directly  the 
cut-over  plants  display  signs  of  starting  potting  may  be  done  if 
■ecessary.  It  is  often  better  to  keep  the  plants  in  the  pots  in  which  they 
have  been  growing  and  gently  feed  in  preference  to  turning  them  out. 
When  the  plants  are  broken  into  small  pieces  a  season  is  necessary 
before  they  are  again  in  active  growth.  It  is  better  to  raise  seedlings, 
as  they  have  youth  and  vigour  on  their  side,  and  grow  freely  from  the 
first.  Plants  cut  over  may  be  placed  in  a  temperature  of  60°,  when 
they  will  quickly  push  fresh  fronds. 
Pteris  serrulata. — Healthy  young  plants  of  this  and  the  stronger 
crested  forms  now  growing  in  3-inch  pots  will  Boon  make  capital 
decorative  specimens  if  transferred  to  5-inch  and  placed  in  vineries  or 
even  Peach  houses  at  work.  The  close  moist  condition  of  these  structures 
suit  them  admirably,  and  they  soon  push  fresh  fronds.  Larger  plants 
that  have  been  damaged  or  the  fronds  have  been  removed  soon  grow 
again  under  the  same  conditions.  It  is  advisable  to  have  a  young  stock 
of  these  plants  from  spores  coming  forward  to  take  the  place  of  any  used 
in  rooms,  which  can  then  be  thrown  away  as  they  become  shabby. 
flllcrolepla  hlrta  crlstata. — This  is  one  of  the  best  Ferns  provided 
it  is  not  grown  in  too  warm  a  temperature,  when  it  soon  becomes  a  prey 
to  scale.  In  the  conservatory  it  does  well,  and  in  baskets  develops  into 
beautiful  specimens.  Plants  that  have  been  in  a  temperature  of  45°  to 
50°  will  soon  commence  rapid  growth  again  if  started  in  a  little  higher 
temperature.  This  variety  does  not  like  starving  at  its  roots,  as,  being  a 
strong  grower,  it  has  a  tendency  to  go  back  if  very  much  root-bound. 
If  larger  plants  are  needed  directly  signs  of  movement  are  visible  those 
in  5  and  6-inch  pots  may  be  placed  into  larger.  To  have  a  stock  of  good 
plants  in  small  pots  some  of  the  largest  with  plenty  of  crowns  may  be 
cut  close  over,  the  crowns  divided  and  dibbled  thickly  into  a  box.  They 
soon  start  into  growth  in  brisk  heat,  when  they  can  be  potted  singly  and 
hardened  to  an  intermediate  temperature.  This  Fern  does  well  in 
vineries  throughout  the  growing  season. 
Polystlchum  prollferum. — This  is  certainly  a  useful  Fern  in  a 
small  state,  and  is  easily  raised  by  pegging  down  on  light  soil  the  fronds 
of  a  well-established  plant.  Young  plants  in  2  and  3-inch  pots  that 
have  been  resting  under  the  stage  may  be  started  into  growth.  The  old 
fronds  may  be  cut  away  and  the  plants  either  started  into  growth  before 
potting  or  they  may  be  placed  into  4  and  5-inch  pots  at  once.  They 
start  well  in  a  vinery  or  Peach  house  at  work,  and  from  these  structures 
will  soon  be  ready  for  furnishing. 
Nephrolepls  exaltata. — This  is  a  very  useful  Fern  for  decorative 
purposes,  as  it  is  easily  grown,  lasts  in  good  condition  throughout  the 
winter,  and  few  stand  better  when  cut.  In  from  3  to  8-inch  pots  it  is 
useful,  and  is  very  effective  arranged  amongst  other  Ferns  or  flowering 
plants.  Small  portions  placed  into  pots  soon  become  established  in  heat, 
and  by  the  autumn  will  become  attractive  plants.  Young  pieces  are 
readily  removed  from  the  side  of  baskets,  and  in  some  cases  sufficient 
can  be  obtained  without  breaking  up  plants  altogether. 
Cyperus  alternlfollus. — The  leaves  of  these  are  very  acceptable 
where  much  decoration  is  carried  out.  Plants  are  readily  raised  from 
seeds  sown  in  heat.  We  find  a  number  useful  in  dark  corners  for  filling 
in  behind  other  plants.  For  large  vases  their  lengthy  slender  stems  rise 
well  above  other  things,  and  give  a  light  graceful  appearance.  For 
yielding  these  a  few  plants  in  5-inch  pots  may  be  placed  into  7  or  even 
8-inch.  Gentle  warmth  will  soon  start  them  into  growth,  and  by  the 
autumn  large  plants,  well  furnished,  will  result. 
