86 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  23,  1896. 
All  correspondence  should  be  directed  either  to  “  The 
Editor  ”  or  to  “  The  Publisher.”  Letters  addressed  to 
Dr.  Hogg  or  members  of  the  staff  often  remain  unopened 
unavoidably.  We  request  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions 
relating  to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should 
never  send  more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All 
articles  intended  for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of 
the  paper  only.  We  cannot  reply  to  questions  through  the  post, 
and  we  do  not  undertake  to  return  rejected  communications. 
Insects’  Eggs  on  Currants  ($.). — You  cannot  obtain  any  better 
information  on  this  subject  than  that  found  on  page  73  and  headed 
“  Destroying  iDBect  Eggs  on  Fruit  Trees.” 
Small  Fink  Rose  ( J B.). — No  doubt  the  variety  that  you  inquire 
about  and  desire  is  the  Rose  de  Meaux.  It  is  not  generally  grown, 
though  a  dainty  old  Rose,  and  extremely  floriferous.  We  think  it  is 
grown  by  Messrs.  William  Paul  &  Son,  Waltham  Cross.  Your  other 
questions  cannot  be  answered  this  week. 
Chemical  Constituents  of  a  Dahlia  Plant  ( Reader ). — We  have 
not  an  analysis  of  the  Dahlia,  but  shall  willingly  publish  one  if  kindly 
supplied  by  a  competent  authority.  We  have  just  received  a  book  by 
Dr.  Griffiths,  in  which  it  strikes  us  that  some  useless  analyses  are  given, 
including  “  Palavias,’  but  none  of  far  more  important  plants,  including 
Dahlias. 
Peach  Trees  for  Cool  House  (J.  C.  2?.). — The  best  time  to  plant 
Peach  trees,  or  any  trees  for  that  matter,  is  as  soon  as  the  leave*  part 
freely  from  the  shoots  in  the  autumn,  but  removals  may  be  safely  effected 
during  the  winter  up  to  the  commencement  of  growth  in  the  spring, 
though  the  earlier  it  is  done  the  better.  We  presume  you  want  the 
varieties  to  come  in  successionally.  In  that  case  the  following  would 
suit  you,  Hale’s  Early,  Dymond,  and  Bellegarde. 
Wood  Ashes — R.H.S,  Examinations  ( Inquirer ). — Wood  ashes 
are  excellent  for  Vines  and  Roses  in  pots.  About  seven  or  eight  parts  of 
loam  to  one  of  ashes  may  be  employed.  A  sprinkling  of  bonemeal  and 
crushed  lime  rubbish  would  be  also  beneficial,  while  some  loams  are 
improved  by  decayed  manure.  The  Royal  Horticultural  Society’s 
examinations  will  be  held  on  May  6th.  They  consist  in  answering 
questions  in  writing  within  a  stipulated  time  in  a  closed  room  without 
books.  You  can  obtain  information  by  writing  to  the  Secretary  of  the 
Society,  117,  Victoria  Street,  Westminster,  S.W. 
Removing  old  Glolre  de  Dijon  Roses  under  Glass  {Bolton), 
•—The  best  time  to  do  this  is  in  the  autumn,  or  when  the  leaves  commence 
falling,  taking  the  plants  up  very  carefully  so  as  to  preserve  as  many  roots 
as  possible.  In  replanting  cut  the  bruised  roots  smooth  to  sound  parts, 
working  the  soil  well  in  amongst  them,  making  moderately  firm,  and 
giving  a  gentle  watering,  mulching  over  the  roots  with  a  little  short 
manure.  The  trees  will  then  callus  at  the  roots  during  the 
winter,  and  being  rather  severely  pruned  they  make  a  good  start  in 
the  spring.  If  done  carefully,  the  trees  may  be  moved  now,  taking 
particular  care  of  the  roots  and  cutting  the  heads  well,  even  severely 
back,  so  as  to  correspond  with  the  loss  of  roots. 
Peach  and  Nectarine  {J.  J.  S). — The  Peach  is  closely  allied 
to  the  Almond,  and  is  botanically  known  as  Amygdalus  persica,  also  by 
modern  authorities  as  Persica  vulgaris.  The  specific  name  in  the  one 
case  and  generic  in  the  other,  being  derived  from  Persia,  the  supposed 
native  country  of  the  fruit.  From  the  Latin  Persica  we  have  the  French 
PSche,  and  in  turn  the  English  Peach.  The  Nectarine  is  a  smooth 
skinned  form  of  the  Peach,  and  is  known  botanically  as  Amygdalus 
persica  laevis,  or  Persica  vulgaris  var.  Isevis.  The  name  Nectarine  is 
derived  from  nectar.  “  Nectarean,  resembling  nectar — very  sweet  and 
pleasant ;  ”  thus  we  have  Nectarine — a  fruit  of  nectareous  flavour.  It  is 
a  comparatively  modern  name,  and  until  some  time  during  the  early 
part  of  the  present  century  both  downy  and  smooth  fruits  were 
catalogued  under  the  name  Peach.  The  smooth  form  was  a  sport  from 
the  downy  Peach,  and  as  smooth  varieties  increased,  and  as  they  differed 
also  in  flavour  from  the  prototype,  they  were  properly  included  in  a 
distinct  section,  under  the  now  established  name  of  Nectarine.  Necta¬ 
rines  have  been  raised  from  Peach  stones,  and  Peaches  from  those  of 
Nectarines.  We  have  not  only  seen  Peach  trees  produce  smooth-skinned 
fruit  in  a  sportive  way  (not  through  budding),  but  fruits  half  downy 
and  half  smooth,  though  these  are  not  common.  You  are  quite  correct 
in  the  assumption  that  the  Nectarine  is  really  a  Peach  with  a  smooth 
skin.  We  can  only  say  that  the  leaf  you  send  has  a  resemblance  to 
Salisburia  adiantifolia.  We  have  seen  the  tree  trained  against  walls, 
but  it  is  not  a  "  climber.’”  You  should  have  said  from  whence  you 
obtained  it. 
Specimen  Zonal  Pelargoniums  and  Fuchsia  {John). — We 
should  keep  the  plants  rather  dry  at  the  roots  for  about  a  fortnight,  but 
not  to  the  extent  of  causing  the  wood  to  shrivel,  then  prune  to  the 
extent  desired,  the  Fuchsia  much  closer  than  the  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  as 
these  are  in  vigorous  health.  When  the  plants  commence  free  growth 
turn  them  out  of  the  pots,  reduce  the  ball  about  one-third  and  return  to 
the  same  size.  This  would  enable  you  to  give  the  plants  fresh  soil  to 
grow  in,  allow  of  the  drainage  being  made  good,  and  in  every  way  be 
better  than  merely  top-dressing.  The  plants  are  better  for  a  short  rest, 
and  the  treatment  advised  would  afford  it  for  a  few  weeks.  You  would 
then  have  more  compact  growth,  which  is  very  desirable  in  specimens. 
Pot  firmly. 
Camellia  Buds  Decaying  {J.  27.  R). — As  the  buds  of  several 
other  varieties  have  developed  properly,  and  as  the  foliage  sent  is  clean 
and  healthy,  we  suspect  the  incipient  petals  have  become  sealed  at  the 
tips.  It  is  not  a  case  of  ordinary  bud  dropping,  or  the  buds  would 
have  been  cast  long  ago.  These  are  much  swollen,  and  have  been  forced 
off  by  the  pressure  of  the  sap.  In  all  probability,  if  with  a  sharp  knife 
you  had  taken  off  the  tip  of  the  buds  some  weeks  ago,  as  if  taking  off 
the  end  of  a  cigar,  the  blooms  would  have  expanded.  We  have  found 
this  plan  effectual  in  at  least  a  hundred  instances  on  a  large  tree  which, 
but  for  the  operation,  would  have  afforded  few  if  any  blooms.  The 
effect  of  the  tipping  is  not  observable  on  the  petals  ;  it  is  visible  to  those 
who  know  what  to  look  for,  and  that  is  about  all.  Try  the  plan  when 
you  have  an  opportunity,  and  report  progress. 
Analysis  of  Pollen  {J.  B.). — The  analyses  of  pollen  do  not  differ 
materially  from  that  of  protoplasm,  and  vary  very  little  in  that  of  the 
Vine  and  Plum,  but  there  are  slight  variations  in  different  varieties  of 
the  same  speciees  or  sub-species.  To  enter  on  this  subject  is  to  treat 
on  protoplasm — the  element  of  organic  or  living  existence,  and 
commencing  with  the  atom  trace  up  step  by  step  the  whole  evolution  of 
matter,  by  progressive  stages  to  its  highest  develop  ment .  Poll  en-proto  plasm 
is  the  beginning  of  life  ;  therefore,  to  understand  life  we  must  understand 
protoplasm.  It  consists  of  five  elements,  and  its  average  composition  is 
said  by  chemists  to  be  52-55  per  cent,  carbon,  21'63  oxygen,  1517  nitrogen, 
6  7  hydrogen,  12  sulphur.  If  you  get  analyses  you  may  find  very  little 
difference  between  that  of  the  lowest  and  highest  plant,  or  of  the  lowest 
animal  and  the  highest ;  yet  there  is  an  essential  difference,  which  is  far 
too  elaborate  a  subject  for  us  to  enter.  We  do  not  know  where  you  will 
find  the  analyses  you  require. 
Chemical  Manure  for  Coniferous  Trees  {J.  B.). — Perhaps  the 
best  material  you  could  use  in  your  case  would  be  basic  slag  phosphate 
in  connection  with  superphosphate  of  lime.  The  basic  slag  phosphate 
should  be  applied  alone  late  in  the  autumn  at  the  rate  of  10  cwt.  per 
acre,  7  lbs.  per  rod,  and  the  superphosphate  in  the  spring,  following 
early  or  before  growth  commences.  It  will  not  do  to  use  the  materials 
together,  owing  to  the  presence  of  free  lime  in  the  basic  slag  phosphate. 
The  quantity  of  superphosphate  to  apply  is  3J  lbs.  per  rod,  5  cwt. 
per  acre.  The  basic  slag  should  be  pointed  in  lightly,  also  the  super¬ 
phosphate,  merely  loosening  the  surface.  If  roots  are  abundant  there 
cover  with  a  little  soil,  preferably  leaf  mould.  Such  treatment  produced 
the  finest  Cupressus  Lawsoniana  at  the  present  time  in  England.  What 
they  want  is  phosphoric  acid  and  lime.  It  will  answer  welt  for  Hollies. 
After  the  first  year  a  more  all-round  manure  maybe  needed.  In  the 
absence  of  slag  now  give  an  extra  dressing  of  superphosphate. 
Rhododendrons  In  Window  Boxes — Vallotas  (  W.  S.). — Rho¬ 
dodendrons  do  not  as  a  rule  do  well  as  permanent  occupants  of  window 
boxes,  as  the  roots  get  frozen  in  severe  weather,  and  the  delicate  hair¬ 
like  fibres  perish.  When  potted  in  sandy  peat,  and  plunged  in  cocoa 
refuse  to  the  rims  in  the  boxes  the  shrubs  do  fairly  well  if  not  exposed 
to  cutting  winds.  It  is  necessary  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  never  allowing 
it  to  become  very  dry  ;  but  on  the  other  hand  it  must  not  be  made 
sodden  and  sour  by  needless  applications  of  water.  You  might  try  weak 
clear  soot  water,  not  darker  than  pale  sherry.  This  may  improve  the 
colour  of  the  leaves,  and  subsequently  benefit  the  flowers  if  the  roots  of 
the  plants  are  in  healthy  state.  Vallotas  do  not  require  bottom  heat,  but 
should  be  kept  in  a  light  position  in  a  well  managed  greenhouse.  Your 
plants  must  be  in  a  bad  condition  at  the  roots,  otherwise  they  would 
develop  the  flower  buds  on  the  scape,  and  also  push  growth  freely  at 
this  time  or  soon.  Many  Vallotas  are  so  infested  with  the  bulb  mite 
that  they  cannot  grow,  but  linger  in  a  diseased  state,  getting  “  smaller 
by  degrees  and  beautifully  less,”  ultimately  perishing.  For  this  pest 
there  are  few  things  better  than  gas  liquor  one  part  by  measure  to  five 
parts  water,  using  it  as  in  watering.  We,  of  course,  do  not  know  that 
your  bulbs  are  infested,  but  we  do  not  know  otherwise  why  they  should 
not  grow. 
Tomato  Seedlings  (IF.  L.  27.). — So  far  as  we  can  discover  there 
is  no  fungus  on  the  tissues,  or  any  overgrowth.  Under  the  microscope, 
and  with  a  powerful  illumination,  the  seed  leaf  was  shown  to  be  so  thin 
and  destitute  of  chlorophyll  as  to  be  almost  transparent  ;  this  accounting 
for  the  paleness  in  colour,  and  even  for  the  little  white  patches.  With 
every  cell  under  view  fungal  hypbas  would  have  been  readily  detected 
had  there  been  any,  or  even  the  plasma  in  the  central  axis.  The 
seedlings  are  extremely  weak  and  attenuated,  the  cells  being  about  one- 
sixth  the  normal  size,  and  the  chlorophyll  granules  scarcely  discernible 
in  some  of  the  cells.  The  plants  ought  to  be  placed  nearer  the  light, 
but  if  you  have  sent  a  fair  sample  they  are  so  spindly  as  to  be  scarcely 
worth  the  trouble.  Perhaps  you  have  sent  the  worst  specimen.  The 
parasite  Fusicladium  fulvum  (Cooke)  sometimes  passes  over  attached  to 
the  seed,  and  enters  the  plant  by  the  radicle,  then  either  destroying  the 
seedling  or  producing  outgrowths,  but  we  fail  to  find  either  hyphtc  or 
