January  30,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
105 
WQKK.Ml'rcrcWEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Pruning-  Apricots. — Loosen  tbe  trees  from  the  walls  or  fences  and 
prune  out  any  exhausted  parts,  whether  old  or  young,  as  well  as  weakly 
shoots.  Growths  of  medium  strength  are  the  best  to  reserve,  being 
invariably  more  fruitful  in  character  than  thick,  sappy  wood  on  the  one 
hand  or  delicate  shoots  on  the  other.  Crowded  or  unsuitably  placed 
shoots  must  either  be  entirely  cut  out  or  shortened  to  form  spurs,  though 
the  latter  ought  not  to  be  originated  too  thickly.  Endeavour  to 
encourage  all  artificial  spurs  to  form  on  the  upper  side  or  front  of 
branches,  the  lower  or  under  side  and  the  part  nearest  the  wall  face 
being  kept  free  of  growth  with  the  exception  probably  of  a  few  natural 
spurs  being  allowed  on  the  under  side. 
Natural  spurs  are  formed  freely  in  all  parts  of  an  Apricot  tree,  and 
it  is  desirable  to  encourage  them  in  all  convenient  positions.  They  add 
to  the  permanent  fruitfulness  of  the  trees  and  render  less  necessary  the 
training  in  of  young  shoots.  Young  medium  sized  shoots  are,  however, 
capable  of  bearing  fine  fruit,  and  such  must  be  trained  in  where  sufficient 
space  admits,  retaining  them  12  to  15  inches  long.  As  it  is  usually 
desirable  to  shorten  those  of  greater  length  than  this,  let  the  cuts  be 
made  just  above  a  triple  bud,  so  that  wood  growth  may  follow.  This  is 
necessary  with  bearing  shoots  in  order  that  the  extension  of  wood  and 
leaves  above  the  fruit  may  draw  sap  which  will  benefit  the  swelling 
fruit  in  passing  to  the  growing  shoot.  Wood  growth  also  proceeds  from 
terminal  buds,  and  it  is  better  not  to  prune  a  shoot  at  all  than  to  shorten 
to  buds  where  no  wood  bud  is  situated,  because  shoots  thus  pruned  die 
back  to  the  nearest  wood  bud  and  no  fruit  can  form. 
When  wood  growth  only  is  desirable  shoots  may  be  pruned  to  the 
lowest  buds,  which  are  invariably  wood  buds.  It  is  from  these  that 
the  succession  growths  which  take  the  place  of  the  preceding  year’s 
bearing  shoots  are  originated  ;  therefore  in  training  it  is  essential  not  to 
injure  these  important  buds.  The  process  of  cutting  .out  superfluous 
wood  and  shoots  includes  the  removal  of  the  old  bearing  wood  if  this 
were  not  carried  out  as  it  should  have  been  after  the  crop  was  gathered. 
Pruning-  Peaches  and  Nectarines, — Similar  treatment  is 
accorded  these  fruits,  though  as  a  rule  more  young  growths  are  retained 
and  a  lesser  number  of  spurs,  either  natural  or  artificial  reserved,  simply 
because  the  system  of  producing  fruit  on  spurs  does  not  answer  nearly 
so  well  as  by  furnishing  tbe  crop  from  young  wood,  which  of  course  is 
produced  one  year  and  fruited  the  next,  afterwards  cut  out.  Dispense 
with  exhausted  wood.  Shorten  weakly  shoots  to  the  basal  buds  if 
growths  are  wanted  in  positions  that  these  buds  can  furnish.  It  is 
frequently  the  case  that  the  points  of  shoots  are  immature  or  unripe, 
hence  it  is  best  that  the  tips  be  cut  off  at  the  present  pruning,  shortening 
to  a  triple  bud — that  is  to  say,  buds  where  a  wood  bud  is  situated  between 
two  blossom  buds. 
If  the  shoots  are  shortened  to  blossom  buds  wood  growth  cannot  be 
originated  above  the  fruit,  which  is  so  desirable  for  assisting  in  its 
development  during  the  summer  by  attracting  sap  thereto.  The  wood 
growth  here  referred  to  is  not  adapted  for  furnishing  the  general  bearing 
wood,  that  being  provided  for  by  the  buds  at  the  base  of  the  fruiting 
shoots.  Wood  buds  may  be  known  from  blossom  buds  by  their  pointed 
appearance,  blossom  buds  being  round.  The  shoots  retained  as  bearing 
wood  may  be  laid  in  at  a  distance  of  4  inches  from  each  other,  selecting 
those  on  the  upper  side  of  the  branches  and  most  equal  in  vigour. 
Avoid  overcrowding,  not  only  for  the  welfare  of  the  bearing  shoot  when 
developing  fruit,  but  to  strengthen  the  successional  growths  which  are 
advancing  at  the  same  time. 
By  annual  regulation  and  careful  pruning  all  parts  of  the  trees  are 
kept  furnished  with  healthy  wood  and  a  proper  balance  of  growth  main¬ 
tained  throughout.  Sudden  removals  of  large  branches  sometimes 
causes  injurious  effects  and  leads  to  gumming. 
Cleansing-  Walls  and  Trees. — While  the  trees  are  away  from 
the  walls  a  thorough  cleansing  of  both  trees  and  walls  must  be 
effected.  Insects  are  hidden  away  in  crevices  and  holes  between  the 
bricks  and  mortar  ;  these  should  be  filled  up  with  durable  mortar  or 
cement,  so  that  the  walls  present  an  unbroken  surface  on  which  to  train 
the  trees.  Wooden  fences  should  be  retarred.  Some  walls  admit  of 
being  colour-washed  ;  if  not,  the  brickwork  ought  to  be  well  syringed 
with  softsoap  and  sulphur  solution  at  a  temperature  of  140°,  to  destroy 
as  far  as  can  be  the  possibility  of  insect  life  re-appearing. 
The  trees  require  attention  next,  dressing  them  with  some  effective 
insecticide.  A  good  and  simple  dressing  consists  of  sulphur,  softsoap, 
paraffin,  and  hot  water.  To  prepare  these  ingredients,  dissolve  £  lb.  of 
softsoap  in  2  gallons  of  water  ;  mix  £  lb.  of  sulphur  to  a  paste,  adding 
to  the  solution  with  two  wineglassfuls  of  paraffin  oil.  Mix  thoroughly, 
so  as  to  combine  the  oil  with  the  solution,  maintaining  the  combination 
by  frequent  stirring.  Soot  or  clay  added  will  give  a  decided  colour  to 
the  mixture  and  bring  it  to  the  desirable  consistency  of  paint,  when  it 
i^  easily  and  conspicuously  applied  to  the  wood  by  the  aid  of  a  painter’s 
brush.  On  the  younger  portions  of  wood  the  brush  must  be  worked 
upwards,  and  the  smallest  bud  will  not  be  displaced,  while  every  inch 
of  wood  can  be  covered. 
Training. — The  loosening  of  the  trees  from  the  walls  gives  an 
opportunity  to  readjust  the  branches,  occupying  the  space  available  to 
the  best  advantage.  If  possible  depress  the  stronger  branches  and 
elevate  the  weaker,  this  applying  chiefly  to  young  trees  ;  but  the  best 
plan  is  to  secure  the  majority  of  branches  as  near  equal  in  vigour  as 
possible  by  annual  regulation  and  a  careful  selection  of  those  best 
adapted  and  situated  for  securing  a  fair  crop.  Avoid  fastening  the 
young  shoots  tightly  to  the  wall  or  fence,  nor  should  shreds  and  ties  be 
too  freely  used .  Medicated  shreds  are  the  neatest  for  the  young  shoots, 
and  do  not  afford  lodgment  for  insects  as  cloth  shreds  do.  Stout  lengths 
of  the  latter  are  best  for  the  larger  branches. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced,  in  Pots. — When  the  Vines  are  in  full  leaf 
they  part  with  considerable  moisture  by  evaporation  both  under  sunlight 
and  at  night,  or  when  the  atmosphere  is  dried  by  ventilation,  artificial 
heat,  and  surfaces  absolutely  too  dry  to  give  off  water-vapour.  This 
does  not  necessarily  imply  elaboration,  for  that  of  chlorophyll  can  only 
take  place  under  sunlight — there  is  no  proof  that  it  occurs  by  the 
influence  of  the  electric  light,  and  carbon  is  not  taken  in  and  fixed 
otherwise  than  by  daylight,  consequently  the  growths  and  crop  suffer 
through  an  inadequacy  of  both  atmospheric  and  soil  moisture.  It  is, 
therefore,  necessary  to  provide  air-moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and 
walls  in  the  morning,  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  in  the  evening.  Water 
also  must  be  supplied  to  the  soil  in  order  to  sustain  the  losses  taking  place 
by  evaporation  from  the  leaves,  and  provide  nutrient  matter  in  solution 
for  imbibing  by  the  roots.  When  the  supply  is  inadequate  the  foliage 
flags  or  becomes  limp,  and  the  mineral  matters  solidify  in  the  tissues, 
hence  the  needful  diffusion  of  nourishment  and  the  transference  of 
elaborated  matter  cannot  take  place. 
The  next  thing  is  to  afford  manurial  matter  for  solution,  and  to 
supply  water  to  insure  its  imbibition  by  the  roots  and  root-hairs. 
These  must  be  got,  and  they  come  in  the  most  prolific  manner  when  the 
soil  is  neither  too  dry  nor  too  wet  and  (in  case  of  the  Vine)  chiefly 
from  the  incentive  of  the  leafage.  To  get  roots  phosphates  must  be 
given,  then  pots&sh  and  the  essential  nitrogen.  To  attain  this  result 
there  must  be  a  favourable  rooting  medium — a  something  for  the  roots 
to  push  in,  and  this  is  usually  provided  in  the  shape  of  top-dressings  of 
lumpy  manure  or  turf  applied  to  the  surface.  This  presents  food 
elements  in  a  moderate  and  readily  available  form,  and  the  roots  to  get 
at  it  permeate  through  and  divide  in  order  to  make  the  most  of  it.  Then 
and  not  till  then  is  extra  food  of  any  benefit  to  the  plant,  for  until  that 
time  it  has  neither  the  roots  to  imbibe  nor  the  foliage  to  elaborate  the 
food  that  all  the  best  advertised  Vine  manures  contain. 
Vines  in  pots  will  require  more  frequent  and  lessened  amount  of 
fertiliser,  or  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure,  always  tepid  and  never  too 
strong.  Thin  the  berries  somewhat  freely,  not,  however,  going  to  the 
extreme  of  making  the  bunches  loose.  Maintain  the  night  temperature 
to  65°,  falling  to  60°  on  cold  mornings,  but  raise  the  heat  in  good  time 
to  65°  to  70°  by  day  and  75°  when  mild,  admitting  a  little  air  at  75°, 
increasing  the  temperature  with  sun  heat  to  80°  or  858,  closing  with  a 
prospect  of  advancing  to  90°,  at  the  same  time  damping  the  house,  this 
being  necessary  in  the  morning  and  evening.  Observe  great  care  in 
ventilating,  avoiding  cold  draughts,  as  these  cripple  the  foliage  and  rust 
the  Grapes. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Attention  will  be  required  in 
tying  the  shoots  and  in  stopping  the  laterals.  It  is  assumed  that  the 
shoots  have  been  stopped  two  or  more  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Where 
the  space  is  restricted  they  may  have  been  pinched  to  one  or  two  joints, 
and  in  any  case  the  axillary  growths  may  be  stopped  at  the  first  leaf  and 
to  one  afterwards  as  fresh  growth  is  made.  If  this  is  likely  to  interfere 
with  the  principal  leaves  the  axillary  growths  may  be  rubbed  off,  except 
from  the  two  lowest  joints,  those  above  the  fruit  being  Btopped  to  one 
leaf.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the  principal  foliage  be  fully 
exposed  to  light  and  air,  overcrowding  being  prolific  of  manifold  ills  ;  at 
the  same  time  very  close  stopping  is  not  advisable  where  there  is  room 
for  extension,  as  an  increase  of  foliage  promotes  corresponding  root 
action,  therefore  retain  all  the  foliage  consistent  with  its  full  exposure 
to  the  light.  Remove  all  loose  and  duplicate  bunches,  thinning  the 
berries  as  soon  as  they  become  well  formed,  but  do  not  defer  this  longer 
when  the  properly  fertilised  berries  are  distinguishable  by  their  taking 
the  lead  in  swelling.  Where  results  are  of  more  consequence  than 
appearance  the  inside  border  may  be  covered  lightly  with  thoroughly 
sweetened  stable  manure,  which  has  had  the  straw  shaken  out  and  been 
turned  several  times  before  it  is  introduced,  or  the  ammonia  vapour  will 
be  too  strong  for  the  foliage,  which  may,  however,  be  obviated  by 
admitting  a  little  air  at  the  top  lightsjto  allow  any  excess  of  vapour  to 
pass  off,  as  it  will  in  a  day  or  two.  ‘The  inside  border  before  being 
covered  with  the  sweetened  stable  litter  should,  if  necessary,  have  a  good 
supply  of  tepid  water,  not  exceeding  by  5°  the  mean  temperature  of  the 
house,  or  liquid  manure.  This,  with  the  leaves  developed  and  others 
forming,  will  induce  root  action,  and  the  berries  will  swell  freely. 
To  promote  surface  rooting  supply  some  approved  fertiliser  to  the 
border,  phosphates  promoting  their  activity  wonderfully.  Avoid  cold 
currents  of  air,  also  vapour  arising  from  hot- water  pipes,  both  causing 
rust.  Where  there  be  evaporation  troughs  on  the  pipes  keep  them 
charged  with  liquid  manure,  say  Peruvian  guano  1  lb.  to  20  gallons  of 
water,  straining  before  use,  or  sprinkle  the  paths  and  border  occasionally 
with  the  same  where  there  are  no  evaporation  troughs,  taking  care  not 
to  overdo  it. 
v  Houses  in  which  the  Vines  are  in  flower  should  have  a  steady  night 
temperature  of  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  by  artificial  means,  and  80°  to  85° 
