106 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
January  30,  1896. 
or  90°  from  sun  heat.  Muscats  require  70°  to  75°  and  80°  to  85° 
respectively  by  day  from  fire  and  sun  heat,  and  a  comparatively  dry 
atmosphere  ;  and  they  should  be  assisted  in  setting  by  artificial  fertili¬ 
sation,  brushing  the  bunches  lightly  when  the  “caps”  come  off  easily 
with  a  large  camel-hair  brush,  and  applying  pollen  afterwards  from 
free-setting  varieties,  drawing  the  brush  charged  with  the  golden  dust 
lightly  over  the  bunches.  This  cross-fertilisation  is  very  effective, 
securing  a  better  set  and  more  evenly  swelled  berries.  A  constant 
circulation  of  warm  rather  dry  air  is  conducive  to  a  good  set,  and  it  is  not 
advisable  to  stop  the  laterals  closely  during  the  setting  period,  but  even 
then  it  does  not  answer  to  allow  growths  to  be  made  which  must  after¬ 
wards  be  removed  by  armfuls,  for  this  gives  a  check  prejudicial  to  the 
health  of  the  Vines,  and  does  not  favour  the  swelling  of  the  Grapes,  but 
often  results  in  shanking. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — Sprinkle  the  rods  in  the  morning 
and  early  afternoon  ;  but  do  not  keep  them  constantly  dripping  with 
water,  and  so  induce  aerial  roots  on  the  rods,  for  these  are  had  at  the 
expense  of  the  stored  food,  and  have  a  weakening  tendency.  Continue 
the  syringing  until  the  bunches  show  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  when 
it  is  best  to  discontinue  it  over  the  Vines ;  but  maintain  proper  atmo¬ 
spheric  moisture  by  sprinkling  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning, 
early  afternoon,  and  evening.  Increase  the  temperature  to  55°  at  night, 
and  60°  to  65°  in  the  day,  advancing  to  75°  from  sun  heat,  with 
ventilation  in  accordance  with  the  state  of  the  weather.  Avoid  cold 
currents,  also  vapour  from  hot-water  pipes  highly  heated.  Keep  up  a 
supply  of  ammonia  either  by  introducing  a  few  sweetened  horse 
droppings  from  time  to  time,  or  spriokling  the  paths  and  borders  two 
or  three  times  a  week  with  weak  liquid  manure.  A  3-gallon  watering- 
potful  suffices  for  30  square  yards  of  flooring  or  border  surface.  Do  not 
hurry  in  disbudding,  letting  the  bunches  appear  in  the  points  of  the 
shoots,  then  the  weakest  and  otherwise  least  desirable  can  be  removed  ; 
but  it  should  be  done  gradually,  so  as  not  to  cause  appreciable  check. 
Keep  the  border  moist,  but  not  by  any  means  wet,  first  getting  the 
leaves  and  the  roots,  and  then  supply  abundance  of  water  for  evaporation 
and  nutriment  for  sustaining  the  growth  and  crop. 
Houses  to  Afford  Ripe  Grapes  in  July. — Early  in  February  is  the 
latest  time  for  starting  Vines  to  finish  fruit  satisfactorily  by,  or  soon 
after,  midsummer.  Five  months  is  the  best  time  to  allow  for  this, 
express  work  being  only  safely  performed  by  experts.  Outside  borders 
need  not  be  covered  with  anything  beyond  a  little  short  litter  or  leaves 
to  protect  the  roots  from  frost,  for  they  cannot  work  in  a  frozen  soil. 
Close  the  house  at  once,  merely  use  artificial  heat  to  exclude  frost  at 
night,  and  maintain  50°  in  the  daytime.  This  to  some  extent  will  cause 
the  sap  to  rise,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  days  advance  to  50°  at  night 
and  55°  in  the  day,  with  60°  to  65°  from  sun  heat.  A  light  damping 
about  1  p.m.  and  damping  the  house  before  leaving  off  work  will  aid  the 
Vines  in  breaking  by  promoting  the  ascent  of  the  sap,  softening  the 
tissues,  and  supplying  moisture  to  the  epidermis.  The  inside  border 
should  be  brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist  condition,  as  the  Vines  need 
water  for  the  transference  of  the  stored  matter  ;  indeed,  for  the  due 
development  of  the  cambial  layer,  then  the  break  will  be  free  and  the 
growth  satisfactory. 
Late  Houses.—  Gros  Colman  is  the  most  popular  late  Grape  for  either 
home  use  or  marketing  purposes,  being  usually  free  cropping,  good  even¬ 
sized  in  both  bunch  and  berry,  not  difficult  to  colour,  and  when  well 
done  not  inferior  to  any  of  the  thick-skinned  varieties  in  quality,  always 
excepting  those  with  Muscat  flavour.  It  requires,  and  all  late  Grapes,  a 
long  time  to  grow  and  perfect  the  crop,  therefore  should  be  started 
sufficiently  early,  so  that  the  Vines  may  have  the  benefit  of  the  best  time 
of  the  year — April  to  September — to  grow  and  ripen  their  crop  in.  The 
house  ought  now  to  be  put  in  order  and  everything  essential  in  respect 
of  cleanliness  to  the  Vines  effected  without  delay. 
Vine  Ryes  and  Cut-lacks. — Buds  may  now  be  inserted  in  pots,  pans, 
or  square  pieces  of  turf,  taking  the  eyes  from  well-ripened  wood,  filling 
the  pots  or  pans  with  light  loam,  and  inserting  the  buds  with  a  pinch  of 
silver  sand  and  half  an  inch  beneath  the  surface,  plunging  the  pots  or 
pans  in  a  bottom  heat  of  80°,  and  in  a  house  with  a  temperature  of  60° 
to  65°  at  night.  Cut-backs  or  Vines  raised  from  eyes  last  spring,  and 
not  of  a  strength  for  fruiting  or  planting  or  left  over  from  the  latter, 
should  be  cut  back  to  an  eye  or  two,  as  near  the  soil  as  possible,  dressing 
the  cuts  carefully  with  styptic  or  patent  knotting.  When  they  have 
made  2  inches  of  growth  shake  them  out  of  the  pots  and  repot  in  turfy 
loam  rather  rough,  with  a  sprinkling  of  finely  crushed  steamed  bones, 
6  or  7-inch  pots  being  quite  large  enough.  The  pots  may  be  plunged  in 
bottom  heat,  but  it  is  not  essential ;  suffice  if  the  house  be  kept  at  a 
proper  temperature — 60°  to  65°  at  nie'ht,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing 
10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat,  and  the  Vines  are  trained  in  abundance  of 
light. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Acacia  lophantha. — Young  plants  of  this  Acacia,  well  furnished 
with  leaves  and  side  shoots,  are  effective  in  subtropical  beds,  and  also 
dotted  among  dwarf  flowering  plants.  The  seed  is  very  hard,  and 
should  be  soaked  for  several  hours  in  hot  water.  Have  pans  of  warm 
moist  soil  in  readiness  for  the  swollen  seeds,  and  give  the  latter  the 
benefit  of  a  brisk  bottom  heat  till  they  germinate.  Place  the  seedlings 
singly  in  small  pots,  and  keep  growing  in  gentle  heat.  Shift  into  5-inch 
or  6-inch  pot9  before  they  become  much  root-bound. 
Cannas.  —  Both  ornamental-leaved  varieties  and  good  flowering 
forms  may  be  raised  from  seeds,  all  proving  of  good  service  in  the  flower 
garden.  The  seeds  are  even  harder  than  those  of  Acacia  lophantha,  but 
will  germinate  if  treated  exactly  as  advised  in  the  case  of  the  latter. 
Seedlings  growing  in  gentle  heat  fairly  large  plants  in  6-inch  pots 
should  be  ready  for  bedding  out  early  in  June.  Old  clumps  ought  to 
have  been  kept  on  the  dry  side,  and  in  particular  away  from  drip.  If 
it  is  desirable  to  greatly  increase  the  stock,  start  these  old  clumps  in  a 
vinery  or  Peach  house  being  forced.  When  the  shoots  are  about  4  inches 
in  length  split  up  the  clumps  freely,  and  place  all  in  pots  just  large 
enough  to  comfortably  hold  the  roots. 
Centaureas. — These,  notably  C.  candidiBsima,  C.  Clementi,  and 
C.  gymnocarpa  are  more  easily  raised  from  seed  than  they  can,  as  a 
rule,  be  propagated  from  cuttings,  and  in  any  case  the  latter  are  not 
often  plentiful.  Sow  the  seeds  in  pans  or  pots  of  fine  light  soil, 
previously  moistened  ;  press  them  in,  and  cover  lightly  with  fine  soil. 
Plunge  in  a  mild  hotbed,  cover  with  squares  of  glass.,  shade  heavily 
till  the  seedlings  appear  ;  raise  the  pans  up  near  to  the  glass  to  prevent 
the  seedlings  from  becoming  drawn,  and  harden  the  plants  a  little 
before  placing  singly  in  2^-inch  pots. 
Chamaepeuce. — The  silvery  leaved  species,  C.  diacantha,  is  the 
most  popular  ;  but  the  green  leaved,  O.  Cassabonse,  is  also  of  service  in 
front  rows  of  raised  beds.  Both  can  be  easily  raised  from  seeds,  and  if 
these  are  sown  now  strong  plants  in  3-inch  pots  should  be  ready  for 
bedding  out  late  in  May.  Sow  the  seed,  and  treat  as  advised  in  the 
case  of  Centaureas. 
Ageratums. — These  are  not  so  popular  for  bedding  as  they  used  to 
be,  but  where  large  numbers  of  plants  are  required  every  summer  they 
will  be  found  useful.  Those  who  have  a  few  strong  plants  in  pots  will, 
if  they  place  these  in  gentle  heat,  soon  have  abundance  of  cuttings, 
which  will  root  in  a  propagating  frame  in  less  than  a  week.  Cutting- 
raised  plants  of  named  varieties  are  most  to  be  depended  on,  but 
seedlings  do  not  vary  greatly.  Sow  thinly  in  pans  of  fine  soil,  cover 
very  lightly,  place  in  gentle  heat,  cover  with  squares  of  glass,  and  shade. 
Prick  out  the  seedlings  first  in  pans  or  boxes,  and  after  they  have  been 
topped  once,  give  them  more  room  in  larger  boxes  or  in  beds  of  soil  in 
frames  and  pits. 
Ferdinandia  eminens. — Where  tall,  graceful  plants  are  wanted 
for  the  summer  decoration  of  pleasure  grounds  this  Ferdinandia  should 
be  grown.  Sow  the  seeds  as  soon  as  possible,  and  place  in  gentle, 
moist  heat  to  germinate.  Keep  dark  till  the  seedlings  appear,  after¬ 
wards  gradually  exposing  to  the  light.  Prick  out  the  seedlings  in  pans 
of  fine  sandy  soil,  then  place  them  singly  in  4-inch  pots. 
Grevlllea  robusta. — This  elegant  green-leaved  plant  is  somewhat 
slow  in  growth,  but  may  yet  be  had  large  enough  for  the  beds  from 
seeds  sown  now.  After  sowing  the  seeds  lightly  cover  with  soil,  using 
well-drained  pans  and  fine  peaty  soil.  Place  in  a  brisk  moist  heat,  cover 
with  glass,  and  darken.  First  place  the  seedlings  singly  in  thumb  pots, 
shifting  them  from  these  into  4J-inch  pots  as  necessary. 
Solanums. — Fine-foliaged  species  of  Solanums  are  effective  in  large 
beds,  or  among  aub-trop’cal  plants  generally,  and  S.  marginatum,  a 
species  with  spiny  leaves  edged  with  silvery  white,  is  not  too  strong 
growing  for  dotting  among  Violas  and  such-like.  They  are  somewhat 
slow  in  growth  at  the  outset,  and  must  be  raised  early  in  order  to  have 
them  large  enough  to  be  serviceable  in  June.  Fill  pans  or  well  drained 
pots  with  fine  peaty  soil,  give  a  gentle  watering,  and  in  the  course  of  a 
few  hours  sow  the  seed,  covering  lightly.  In  all  other  respects  treat  as 
advised  in  the  case  of  Ferdinandia  eminens. 
Wlgandla  caracasana. — Though  scarcely  so  ornamental  as  the 
spiny-leaved  Solanums,  this  Wigandia  is  yet  worthy  of  a  place  in  most 
large  flower  gardens.  Plants  can  readily  be  raised  from  seeds.  Prepare 
pans  much  as  advised  for  Solanums,  only  making  the  surface  level  and 
firm.  The  seeds  are  small  and  should  be  sown  on  the  surface.  Place  on 
a  mild  hotbed  and  cover  closely  with  glass  and  brown  paper.  When 
the  soil  gives  signs  of  dryness  partially  immerse  in  a  tub  of  warm  water. 
Prick  out  the  seedlings  when  quite  small  in  pans  of  fine  peaty  soil, 
afterwards  giving  them  each  a  4|-inch  pot,  or  else  more  room  in  other 
pans  or  boxes. 
Sweet  Peas. — Sweet  Peas  are  so  much  in  demand  that  it  pays  well 
to  raise  plants  under  glass  for  transferring  to  the  open  borders  when 
large  enough.  Those  who  grow  for  sale  will  find  whites  most  in 
demand,  but  private  gardeners  will  want  more  colours.  Sow  five  or 
six  seeds  of  superior  varieties  in  2£-inch  pots,  and  place  in  gentle  heat  to 
germinate.  Harden  before  the  plants  become  much  root-bound,  and 
plant  out  where  they  are  to  flower.  This  may  mean  a  gain  of  a  fort¬ 
night,  and  is  also  the  mo9t  reliable  method  of  sowing  choice  varieties, 
every  sound  seed  germinating  in  heat. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Brunning  &  Co.,  Gt.  Yarmouth.  —Florists'  Flowers. 
W.  Bull,  King’s  Road,  Chelsea,  S .W.— Seeds. 
Cunningham  &  Wylie,  98,  Mitchell  Street,  Glasgow. — Seeds. 
Dobbie  &  Co.,  Rothesay. — Seed  and  other  Specialities. 
R.  &  J.  Farquhar  &  Co.,  16,  South  Market  Street,  Boston. — Seeds. 
J.  Green,  Dereham. — Annual  Guide. 
A.  B.  Greenfield,  10,  North  Street,  Wandsworth. — Select  Chrys¬ 
anthemums. 
H.  P.  Kelsey,  Kawane  (Mitchell  &  Co.),  North  Carolina,  U.S.A. — 
Hardy  American  Plants. 
R.  C.  Notcutt,  Broughton  Road  Nursery,  Ipswich. — Chrysanthemums. 
R.  Owen,  Maidenhead. — Chrysanthemums. 
C.  Shaw,  Sherwood,  Nottingham. — Chrysanthemums. 
J.  Yates,  29,  Little  Underbank,  Stockport. — Seeds. 
