February  6,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
127 
of  water  near  M.  Marlia’a  beautiful  hybrid  Nymphasashave  been  success¬ 
fully  introduced,  whilst  Flag  Irises  (Germanica  type)  have  been  planted 
a  la  Burbidge  on  the  arch  of  the  garden  entrance.  I  do  not  (inten¬ 
tionally)  take  the  name  of  the  College  garden  curator  in  vain,  for 
amongst  the  many  students  who  visit  that  elysium  of  hardy  plants  few 
were  more  observant  than  Hermione,  the  late  Duchess  of  Leinster. 
Returning  by  the  south  front  of  the  mansion,  where  the  ancient 
dwarf  Yew  hedges  outlining  the  design  of  the  Italian  garden,  planned 
in  1837,  still  exist,  we  find  the  old  order  has  given  place  to  the  new. 
The  smaller  beds  have  been  thrown  together  and  planted  with  hardy 
plants  confined  by  loose  stone  edgings.  It  is  here,  and  here  only, 
I  cannot  quite  reconcile  the  freer  method  of  culture  with  the  severely 
classical  outlines  of  the  stately  pile.  Possibly  the  hedges,  which  are 
now  being  allowed  to  grow  up  with  the  ulterior  object  of  cutting  them 
into  undulating  (wavy)  outlines,  are  all  too  prominent  to  the  eye,  whilst 
the  plants  are,  at  this  season,  but  little  in  evidence.  Anyway,  being 
but  yet  in  the  conversion  stage,  future  possibilities  have  yet  to  define 
their  fitness  to  the  position. 
Mr.  Black  tells  me  of  a  bog  garden  to  which  distance  and  the  rapidly 
closing  day  preclude  a  visit.  One  place  is  present  in  our  thoughts 
and  close  at  hand  ;  this  is  the  little  private  cemetery,  which  we  enter 
as  the  pall  of  night  is  rapidly  falling,  and  meditate  on  the  greatest 
changes  of  all.  Majestic  Beeches  tower  overhead ;  below  a  hardy 
white  Passion  Flower  entwines  itself  about  the  arms  of  a  marble  cross. 
Other  memorials,  plain  and  unobtrusive,  lie  on  the  soft,  springy  turf, 
from  which  will  soon  rise  Snowdrops,  Daffodils,  and  many  things  which 
steal  upon  the  mind  to  lighten  the  “  valley  of  the  shadow  .  .  .” 
Returning  to  the  mansion,  permission  to  view  the  magnificent  reception 
rooms  is  availed  of.  All  but  closed  for  the  present,  stillness  reigns  save 
for  the  sound  of  children’s  voices  borne  from  a  suite  of  rooms  above, 
where  the  little  Duke  and  his  brothers,  doubly  orphaned,  are  sharing 
the  care  and  solicitude  of  those  ladies  to  whom  is  gratefully  dedicated 
these  notes  of  the  present  and  memories  of  the  past  by — An  Old 
Traveller, 
IS  WOKK/outheWEEK.  < 
I3t: 
8? 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Pines. — The  plants  recently  started  into  fruit  will,  if  in  good 
condition  at  the  roots,  produce  strong  suckers.  When  these  are  large 
enough  to  handle,  all,  except  one  sucker  to  each  plant,  should  have  the 
growths  checked  by  taking  out  the  centres  with  a  chisel-like  iron  rod. 
To  supplement  the  autumn-potted  plants,  select  others  which  have  been 
wintered  in  7  or  8-inch  pots,  choosing  the  most  vigorous  plants.  The 
remainder  of  such  plants  may  be  reserved  until  the  general  spring 
potting,  when  they  should  be  shaken  out  and  treated  like  suckers. 
Procure  fibrous  loam  with  the  herbage  reduced,  or  if  used  fresh  it 
should  be  heated  on  a  flue,  so  as  to  kill  the  grass  and  any 
larvae  it  may  contain,  and  when  torn  up  in  suitable  compost  add  a 
quart  of  soot  to  every  bushel,  and  a  pint  of  superphosphate.  If 
the  turf  has  been  laid  up  it  must  be  placed  under  cover  some  little  time 
before  using  to  become  dried.  Drain  the  pots  moderately  but  efficiently, 
dusting  with  wood  ashes  or  soot,  so  as  to  exclude  worms  (this  being 
effectively  done  by  using  “  Porter’s  Excluder  ”),  and,  keeping  the 
plants  well  down  in  the  pots,  ram  the  soil  firmly  round  the  roots, 
leaving  sufficient  space  to  admit  of  copious  supplies  of  water  when 
necessary.  For  Queens  10-inch  pots  are  suitable,  and  11  or  12-inch 
for  those  of  stronger  or  more  robust  growth.  A  temperature  of  60°  to 
65°  will  be  sufficient  for  these  plantB,  also  for  those  potted  last  autumn, 
and  80°  to  85°  at  the  roots. 
Plants  in  beds  about  to  be  started  into  fruit  must  not  have  the  heat 
over  90°  or  95°,  or  their  roots  will  be  injured.  It  is  well  to  have  the  heat 
ascertained  by  a  thermometer  with  its  bulb  level  with  the  base  of  the 
pots.  If  sufficient  fruit  be  started  to  meet  requirements,  later  suc- 
cessional  plantB  may  be  advanced  slowly,  they,  with  autumn-potted 
suckers,  requiring  careful  attention  in  watering,  especially  when  the 
heat  is  supplied  by  fermenting  materials. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — The  past  month  has 
favoured  forcing  operations,  and  where  proper  attention  has  been  given 
to  the  ventilation  and  fertilising  the  blossoms  the  set  is  satisfactory. 
Any  late-blooming  varieties  still  in  bloom  should  have  the  flowers  with 
ripe  pollen  brushed  over  daily,  either  with  a  camel-hair  brush  or  feather, 
though  shaking  the  trellis  answers  in  many  cases,  especially  when  the 
house  is  kept  rather  dry  with  a  moderate  circulation  of  air  until  the 
flowers  fade,  when  a  slight  syringing  with  tepid  water  will  soon  bring 
off  the  remains  of  the  flowers.  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  in  inside 
borders  always  do  better  when  early  forced  than  those  having  the  roots 
in  cold  outside  borders,  and  they  will  set  the  fruit  in  a  lower 
temperature,  and  any  apparent  lateness  will  be  recovered  rapidly  as  the 
days  increase  in  length  and  brightness.  Undue  haste  causes  many 
disasters  in  forcing  stone  fruits,  but  success  attends  the  safe,  steady, 
progressive  method.  Disbud  cautiously,  retaining  a  growth  level  with 
or  above  the  fruit.  In  disbudding  take  off  the  foreright  shoots  first, 
commencing  with  the  upper  and  upright  part  of  the  trees,  and  work 
down  to  the  horizontal  branches  at  the  base. 
Fumigate  with  approved  material  or  vaporise  with  nicotine  on  the 
first  appearance  of  aphides,  but  not  whilst  the  trees  are  in  flower,  and 
be  careful  not  to  give  too  much,  as  the  fruit  and  foliage  are  very 
susceptible  of  injury,  on  which  account  some  growers  prefer  to  use  an 
extract  of  quassia  chips  or  petroleum  emulsion,  or  other  approved 
insecticide.  Keep  the  surface  near  hot-water  pipes  properly  moistened, 
and  supply  liquid  manure  (or  top-dress  with  an  approved  fertiliser  and 
wash  down)  to  the  roots.  Sprinkle  a  few  sweetened  horse  droppings  on 
the  border  occasionally  for  giving  off  ammonia  both  to  the  roots  and 
atmosphere,  which  encourages  the  first  to  come  to  the  surface,  and  in 
the  latter  is  inimical  to  red  spider  whilst  benefiting  the  foliage,  or 
sprinkle  occasionally  with  neat  stable  or  cow-house  drainings  (not 
piggeries)  diluted  with  five  times  the  quantity  of  water  or  Peruvian 
guano,  1  lb.  to  20  gallons  of  water,  using  3  gallons  of  the  dilution  to 
30  square  yards.  Avoid  heavy  mulchings,  as  theie  induce  sappy  growths 
— wood  at  the  expense  of  the  fruit,  and  must  not  be  given  till  the 
stoning  process  is  completed.  Maintain  a  day  temperature  of  55° 
artificially,  50°  at  night,  and  60°  to  65°  by  day,  with  a  little  ventilation 
and  gleams  of  sun,  ventilating  fully  above  65°,  being  careful  to  avoid 
cold  drying  currents,  and  close  early  to  raise  the  temperature  10°  from 
sun  heat  above  the  ordinary  day  temperature. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  trees  set  to  work  at  the 
beginning  of  last  month  have  an  abundance  of  strong  blossoms  expanded 
and  opening  and  will  need  less  atmospheric  moisture,  syringing  the  trees 
being  discontinued,  yet  damping  the  floors  and  borders  occasionally  to 
secure  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere.  The  night  temperature 
may  fall  to  between  40°  and  45°,  raising  it  early  in  the  morning  to  50°, 
at,  which  keep  through  the  day,  ventilating  from  55°  and  fully  between 
GQ°  and  G5°,  leaving  a  little  ventilation  at,  the  top  of  the  house  constantly. 
Examine  the  border  inside  and,  if  necessary  supply  water  or  liquid 
manure  from  stable,  cowhouse  or  even  sewage  tanks  properly  diluted. 
This  will  become  converted  into  assimilable  matter  by  the  time  nutriment 
is  required  in  quantity,  and  the  foliage  will  have  a  deep  green,  glossy, 
healthy  colour,  indicating  that  it  is  making  the  most  of  the  sunlight — 
gathering  elements  from  the  atmosphere  essential  for  building  up  the 
structures  healthfully  at  no  cost. 
Trees  to  Supply  Fruit  in  July  and  August. — The  house  containing 
midseason  varieties  must  now  be  started  to  give  fruit  at  the  time  specified, 
syringing  the  trees  until  the  blossoms  commence  opening,  as  they  are 
now  doing  without  any  artificial  excitement,  and  where  the  blossom  buds 
are  thick  remove  those  on  the  under  side  or  at  the  back  of  the  trellises. 
Before  the  flowers  expand  it  is  a  good  practice  to  fumigate  the  house  on 
a  calm  afternoon  when  the  trees  are  dry  to  destroy  any  aphides  that  may 
exist,  and  so  keep  the  trees  free  from  these  pests  until  the  fruits  are  set. 
Inside  borders  must  not  lack  moisture,  therefore  if  there  is  any  doubt  on 
this  point  give  a  thorough  supply  of  tepid  water,  or  liquid  manure  if  the 
trees  are  enfeebled  by  repeated  forcing  or  need  succour. 
Late  Houses. — The  blossoms,  or  at  least  the  buds,  in  these  with  the 
roof  lights  fixed  are  moving  and  in  a  promising  condition.  Where  the 
lights  have  been  removed  the  buds  are  still  dormant,  and  the  lights  need 
not  be  replaced  until  it  is  wanted  to  start  the  trees  or  the  blossoms  are 
advanced  in  swelling,  and  it  is  not  safe  to  longer  expose  them.  Trees 
under  fixed  roofs  must  have  the  inside  borders  kept  moist  and  freely 
ventilated,  so  as  to  keep  the  trees  in  good  condition  for  giving  full 
crops  of  fruit.  Pruning,  cleansing  the  house,  and  dressing  the  trees 
.should  be  proceeded  with  and  brought  to  a  close  as  soon  as  practicable. 
Fig-s. — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — These  are  now  in  full 
growth,  and  the  young  Figs  on  St.  John’s  and  Pingo  de  Mel — the  two 
best  first-crop  Figs  for  very  early  forcing — are  swelling  rapidly,  as  also 
are  those  of  Brown  Turkey,  which  forms  an  excellent  succession  and 
the  best  all-round  Fig  in  cultivation,  even  for  first  and  second  crops 
indoors  or  one  crop  in  cool  houses  or  on  walls.  The  trees  will  need  the 
points  of  the  shoots  pinched  off  when  they  have  made  five  leaves. 
Maintain  the  temperature  at  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and  65°  by  day, 
advancing  to  75°  with  sun  heat,  closing  early,  and  allowing  an  advance 
to  80°,  85°,  or  90°.  In  dull  weather  extra  heat  early  in  the  day 
will  allow  a  little  ventilation,  if  only  for  an  hour  or  two,  to  give 
a  change  of  air,  and  this  tends  to  solidify  the  growths.  Keep  the 
bottom  heat  at  70°  to  75°  steadily,  introducing  fresh  leaves  as  required. 
Red  spider  must  be  kept  down  by  syringing,  but  always  sufficiently 
early  in  the  afternoon  to  allow  of  the  foliage  becoming  dry  before 
night.  In  dull  weather  it  is  better  to  damp  the  paths  and  walls  than  to 
keep  the  trees  constantly  dripping  with  water,  which  hinders  evapora¬ 
tion  and  prevents  elaboration  of  the  nutrient  elements. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — White  Marseilles  is  a  grand  Fig 
when  given  room,  and  with  Brown  Turkey,  backed  by  Negro  Largo, 
which  is  better  in  the  second  than  first  crop,  are  everything  desired  for 
either  home  or  market — yes,  they  sell  well  when  neatly  done  up  in 
boxes  with  lace  paper  folded  half  over  and  not  returnable,  both  in  half- 
dozens  and  dozens.  Both  gentlemen  and  ladies  purchase  them  in  April  and 
onwards  at  prices  that  pay  the  grower  better  than  fruits  grown  to  the 
extent  of  glutting  the  market.  The  trees  when  growing,  also  the  fruits, 
must  have  a  temperature  at  night  of  55°,  and  G0°  to  65°  by  day,  with 
a  rise  of  5°  to  10°  from  sun.  Syringe  twice  on  bright  days,  but 
on  dull  days  morning  syringing  with  damp  in  the  afternoon  will  be 
sufficient,  ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions,  as  a  weakly 
growth  cannot  afterwards  be  made  stout  nor  a  thin  foliage  become  thick; 
therefore  seek  a  sturdy  growth,  well-developed,  thick  leathery  foliage 
from  the  commencement.  A  little  partially  decayed  lumpy  manure 
placed  on  the  surface  of  the  border  will  attract  roots  whilst  not  depriving 
