128 
TOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  6 .  1896. 
the  soil  of  air,  and  this  occasionally  sprinkled  with  a  little  pure  bone 
superphosphate  will  afford  some  ammonia,  as  well  as  the  essential 
phosphoric  acid  and  lime.  Turves  chopped  up  rather  roughly  answer 
nearly  as  well  as  the  decayed  manure,  indeed  quite  as  well  if  soaked  in 
neat  liquid  from  stables  and  cowbyres,  sprinkling  them  with  super¬ 
phosphate  after  placing  on. 
Second  Early  Forced  Trees. — In  most  cases  a  house  of  trees  in  pots 
and  another  of  planted-out  trees  meet  the  requirements,  as  the  Fig 
produces  two  crops  in  one  season.  The  trees  in  pots,  however,  must  not 
be  burdened  by  a  heavy  second  bearing  if  intended  to  give  a  full  first  crop 
by  early  forcing  another  season,  therefore  it  may  be  necessary  to  supple¬ 
ment  the  early  started  by  a  successional  house,  which  started  now  will 
give  a  first  crop  about  the  middle  of  summer  and  another  towards  its 
close,  when  Negro  Largo  is  certainly  seen  at  its  best.  The  trees  produce 
the  finest  fruits  on  extensions,  therefore  those  having  fruited  and 
become  bare  should  be  cut  out  so  as  to  give  place  to  sturdy  well-furnished 
growth,  thinly  disposed  and  kept  clean.  The  trees  must  be  put  in  order 
and  dressed  with  an  insecticide,  but  this  is  done  directly  the  leaves  are 
all  down.  Bring  the  border  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state  by  repeated 
supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure  as  necessary.  Syringe  the  trees 
occasionally,  damping  the  paths  twice  a  day.  A  temperature  of  50°  at 
night  and  55°  by  day  is  sufficient  to  commence  with,  advancing  to  65° 
from  sun  heat,  ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
Cherry  House. — The  Cherry  is  impatient  of  heat  in  the  early 
stages  of  growth,  particularly  so  when  the  ventilation  provided  is  limited. 
This  is  a  vital  point,  therefore  commence  ventilating  at  50°,  45°  being 
sufficient  by  day  artificially  and  40°  at  night.  The  trees  advanced  slowly 
from  December  are  now  rapidly  unfolding  the  fiowering  parts,  and  will 
need  attention  in  fertilising  the  flowers  on  fine  days  with  a  camel-hair 
brush.  Where  the  flowers  are  not  expanded  it  is  well  to  fumigate  the 
house,  so  as  to  make  sure  that  the  trees  are  free  from  aphides,  repeating 
at  intervals  of  a  day  or  two  Examine  the  border,  and  if  there  be  a 
deficiency  of  moisture  give  a  thorough  supply,  not  otherwise,  for  too 
much  is  as  bad  as  too  little  water, 
Melons. — Bottom  heat  is  absolutely  necessary  to  success  in  the 
cultivation  of  early  Melons,  and  it  should  be  durable.  Hot-water  pipes 
are  the  best,  affording  a  regular  heat  when  sufficient  in  amount.  Yet  a 
good  result  can  be  had  from  fermenting  material  if  due  regard  is  paid 
to  their  preparation.  Stable  litter  and  an  equal  proportion  of  Oak  or 
Beech  leaves  are  suitable.  A  bo'tom  heat  of  80°  to  85°  is  necessary,  that 
from  dung  and  leaves  should  be  85°  to  90°  at  the  commencement, 
A  ridge  or  hillock  of  soil  should  be  formed  along  the  centre  of  a 
frame  or  of  a  light  for  frames,  or  along  the  sides  of  hot- water-heated 
beds,  about  a  barrowload  sufficing  for  a  hillock,  placing  in  the  form  of 
a  cone,  flattening  the  top  so  as  to  give  about  12  inches  depth  of  soil. 
When  this  is  warmed  through  a  plant  should  be  turned  out  in  each, 
affording  the  conditions  for  Cucumbers.  Instead  of  planting  seedlings 
out  too  soon  shift  info  larger  pots  as  required,  plunging  them  in  a  bottom 
heat  of  80°,  securing  the  plants  to  small  stakes  and  rubbing  off  the 
laterals  to  the  height  of  the  bottom  wire  of  the  trellis.  Plants  for  pits 
and  frames  should  be  stopped  at  the  second  rough  leaf,  and  they  are  best 
planted  about  that  time  or  soon  afterwards. 
Cucumbers. — Young  plants  are  now  ready  for  transferring  to  the 
hillocks  in  the  Cucumber  house,  it  having  been  thoroughly  cleansed, 
and  the  soil  placed  in  a  few  days  to  become  thoroughly  warmed.  Press 
the  soil  gently,  yet  firmly  about  each  plant,  place  a  stick  to  each  and 
secure  it  to  the  first  wire  of  the  trellis.  If  bright  sunshine  occurs  shade 
lightly  in  the  middle  of  the  day  to  prevent  flagging,  and  after  the 
plants  become  established  it  can  be  discontinued,  subjecting  them 
to  the  full  influence  of  the  sun.  Keep  the  night  temperature  at  65°, 
5°  less  on  cold  and  5°  more  on  mild  nights,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with 
80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  so  as  to  maintain 
that  heat  and  advance  to  90°,  95°  or  100°,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric 
moisture  on  fine  days. 
Plants  in  bearing  will  need  copious  supplies  of  nourishment,  which 
may  be  afforded  in  the  form  of  top  dressings  or  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid 
state.  The  thing  is  to  be  careful  not  to  give  it  too  strong,  and  only 
when  needed,  but  always  before  the  plants  are  distressed  for  lack  of  it. 
Crop  lightly,  and  keep  the  plants  clean.  Avoid  overcrowding,  keep  the 
foliage  thin,  remove  bad  leaves  and  exhausted  growths,  stopping  others 
one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit  as  space  allows,  maintaining  a  supply 
of  young  growths  for  successional  bearing. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — The  early  plants  have  thrown  up  the 
trusses  strongly,  Newton  Wonder  leading,  then  La  Grosse  Sucrbe, 
Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury,  and  Boyal  Sovereign  being  about  level 
in  following,  the  earliest  having  set  the  fruit  freely,  and  being  well 
thinned,  are  advanced  in  swelling.  This  should  be  accelerated  in  a 
temperature  of  60°  to  65°  or  70°  by  artificial  means,  and  10°  to  15° 
advance  from  sun  heat,  maintaining  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere 
by  dampings  and  light  syringings  on  bright  afternoons.  When  the 
fruits  commence  ripening  (and  ripe  Strawberries  ought  not  to  be  out  of 
the  common  in  February  this  year)  a  drier  atmosphere  will  improve 
both  colour  and  flavour.  Plants  advancing  to  the  flowering  stage 
must  not  be  hurried,  50°  to  55°  being  ample  by  artificial  means,  and  60° 
to  65°  with  sun  heat,  and  free  ventilation,  but  avoid  cold  draughts,  especially 
directly  upon  the  plants.  More  plants  should  be  started  without  delay, 
such  varieties  as  Noble,  Boyal  Sovereign,  President,  Auguste  Nicaise, 
Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  James  Veitch,  and  Sir  Charles  Napier  afford  grand 
fruit;  but  for  quality  Lucas,  G unton  Park,  or  Dr.  Hogg  are  un¬ 
surpassed,  and  plants  should  now  be  introduced,  as  well  of  the  early 
varieties,  so  as  to  secure  the  succession  unbroken.  Keep  a  sharp  look-out 
for  aphides  in  the  stages  preceding  flowering,  fumigating  upon  their 
first  appearance,  for  they  insinuate  themselves  into  the  opening  buds, 
and  give  much  trouble  unless  promptly  destroyed. 
THE  KITCHEN  GABDEN. 
Celery. — If  Celery  is  required  for  August  shows,  and  for  use  early 
in  September,  seed  ought  now  to  be  sown.  Give  the  preference  to  the 
white  varieties,  notably  Wright’s  Giant  and  Yeitch’s  Superb.  Sow  the 
seeds  somewhat  thinly  in  pans  of  fine  soil,  cover  lightly,  and  place  in  a 
brisk  moist  heat.  Cover  with  squares  of  glass  and  shade  heavily.  Directly 
the  seedlings  are  up  raise  them  close  to  the  glass  with  a  view  to  keeping 
them  sturdy.  When  rough  leaves  have  formed  prick  the  plants  out  into 
other  pans  or  boxes  by  way  of  preparation  for  frames  or  pots,  and  still 
keep  them  growing  in  gentle  heat. 
Xieeks. — These  also  are  wanted  early  for  the  shows,  and  seeds  should 
be  sown  and  the  plants  treated  much  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Celery. 
Autumn  sown  plants  can  be  grown  to  a  larger  size  than  those  raised  early 
in  spring,  but  they  do  not  turn  out  so  well  in  the  end,  being  much  coarser 
and  with  bases  unduly  thickened. 
Onions. — It  is  a  good  practice  to  raise  Onions  for  both  exhibition  and 
ordinary  purposes  under  glass  extensively.  When  the  seeds  are  sown  in 
pans  and  boxes  and  placed  in  heat  every  sound  one  germinates.  Added 
to  this  Onions  raised  early  and  planted  out  when  about  4  inches  or  rather 
more  in  height  invariably  mature  early  and  thoroughly,  keeping  well  in 
consequence.  A  calculation  should  be  made  of  the  number  of  plants 
required,  and  seeds  sown  accordingly.  Treat  the  seed  and  the  plants  as 
far  as  keeping  them  sturdy  is  concerned  similarly  to  Celery,  but  there 
need  be  no  pricking  out.  It  is  the  besr  of  the  White  Spanish  types  that 
should  be  sown.  An  early  opportunity  ought  to  be  taken  of  preparing 
the  ground  intended  for  either  Onion  plants  or  seeds,  so  as  to  have  it  in 
good  condition  for  them  by  the  time  sowing  or  planting  arrives.  If  in 
previous  seasons  the  Onion  maggot  has  been  troublesome,  spread  gas 
lime  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  at  the  rate  of  half  a  hundredweight  to 
a  square  rod  of  grouffd,  and  leave  it  exposed  for  not  less  than  six  weeks. 
A  free  use  of  soot  is  also  remedial  and  is  also  a  good  fertiliser.  If  the 
soil  is  in  a  suitable  condition,  the  first  week  in  March  is  a  good  time  to 
now  Onion  seed  in  the  open. 
Peas. — It  is  a  mistake  to  sow  Peas  in  the  open  when  the  ground  is  in 
a  semi-sodden  unworkable  state, and  if, therefore,  it  is  not  moderately  dry 
and  free  working  during  the  second  week  in  February  wait  a  few  days 
longer.  Only  the  smooth  round-seeded  varieties  ought  to  be  sown,  the 
wrinkled  seeds  being  likely  to  decay  when  surrounded  by  cold  wet  soil. 
Well  manured  deeply  dug  ground  is  suitable  for  Peas,  and  without  much 
further  preparation  will  answer  well  for  late  Cauliflowers  and  early 
Broccoli.  Open  moderately  wide  drills  3  feet  or  rather  more  apart  and 
sow  the  seed  rather  freely,  covering  with  about  2  inches  of  fine  soil. 
Midway  between  the  rows  of  Peas  sow  one  of  Spinach. 
Broad  Beans. — A  few  rows  of  Early  Longpod  and  Beck’s  Dwarf 
Gem  Broad  Beans  may  be  sown  at  the  same  time  as  early  Peas.  If 
wanted  particularly  early  raise  the  requisite  number  of  plants  under 
glass  singly  in  2-inch  pots,  planting  out  before  they  become  badly  root- 
bound. 
Tomatoes  — If  seeds  were  sown  early  in  the  year  and  the  plants 
kept  close  to  the  light  they  ought  now  to  be  sturdy  and  strong.  They 
may  be  either  potted  singly  in  2-inch  pots  or  be  placed  round  the  sides 
of  5-inch  or  6-inch.  Use  light  loamy  soil  and  sink  the  plants  to  the 
seed  leaves.  Beturn  to  a  brisk  heat,  and  directly  they  have  commenced 
rooting  strongly  let  them  have  as  much  light  and  sunshine  as  possible. 
Before  they  become  root-bound  thev  must  be  transferred  to  their  fruiting 
quarters.  The  earliest  crops  can  be  had  from  plants  in  10-inch  to  12-inch 
pots.  Use  a  compost  consisting  of  three  parts  of  loam  to  one  of  old 
Mushroom-bed  manure  or  horse  droppiDgs,  adding  a  sprinkling  of  soot 
or  special  manure.  Pot  rather  firmly  and  allow  room  for  a  good  top¬ 
dressing  later  on.  A  temperature  of  from  60°  to  65°  is  sufficient,  and 
this  should  be  accompanied  with  a  circulation  of  air  at  all  times  other 
than  frosty  weather. 
Tomatoes  in  Large  Houses. — When  Tomatoes  have  been  grown  in 
the  same  border  for  two  or  three  years  in  succession  and  growers  are  not 
in  a  position  to  give  a  wholesale  change  of  soil,  a  good  rest  to  the  soil 
would  be  allowed  if  pot  culture  were  resorted  to  occasionally.  Eleven- 
inch  pots  are  not  too  large-,  and  these  should  be  arranged  across  the 
house  in  rows  not  less  than  3  feet  apart.  If  the  plants  are  well  attended 
to,  that  is  to  say,  given  plenty  of  water  and  liquid  manure,  and 
allowed  to  root  into  the  soil  beneath,  they  are  capable  of  producing 
heavy  crops  ;  while  the  manure  that  drains  from  them  will  be  absorbed 
by  the  soil  underneath.  When  plants  are  expected  to  grow  from  4  feet 
to  12  feet  in  height,  and  to  bear  heavily,  they  must  have  the  benefit  of  a 
deep,  firm,  root  run,  and  solid  manure  underneath,  with  abundance  of 
water  and  liquid  manure  as  well.  All  the  work  of  cleaning  the  roofs, 
trenching,  and  such  like  should  be  completed  well  in  advance  of  plant¬ 
ing-out  time. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED 
J.  Carter  &  Co.,  237,  High  Holborn. — Temporary  Pastures. 
Dobie  &  Mason,  22,  Oak  Street,  Manchester. — Seeds. 
J.  Turner,  North  Street,  Wetherby,  Yorks. — Seeds. 
A.  B.  Greenfield,  10,  North  Street,  Wandsworth — Perfection  Seeds. 
B.  Smith  &  Co.,  Worcester. — Seeds. 
B.  Dean,  Banelagh  Boad,  Ealing. — Plants  and  Seeds. 
W.  Well  8,  Earls  wood  Nurseries,  Bed  Hill. — Special  List  of  Chrys¬ 
anthemums. 
Wehb  &  Son®,  Wordsley,  Stourbridge. — Seed  Catalogue 
