February  18,  1896, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
151 
thus  secured  in  proper  position  and  the  right  direction,  whereas  care¬ 
less  covering  reverses  the  direction,  frequently  causing  the  ends  of 
many  roots  to  be  turned  upwards.  The  uppermost  layers  may  be 
covered  3  or  4  inches.  The  whole  of  the  soil  over  the  roots  mulch  with 
manure  of  a  light  open  character,  and  stake  the  trees  securely,  using 
strips  of  sacking  round  the  stems  to  prevent  abrasions  of  the  bark. 
Newly  planted  wall  trees  should  not  be  secured  in  position  for  Borne 
time  after  planting. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots. — TheVineswill  nowrequire  abundant 
supplies  of  nourishment,  and  must  not  sustain  any  check  either  through 
dryness  at  the  roots  or  in  the  atmosphere.  If  the  pots  are  stood  on  a 
hard  base,  insert  strips  of  zinc  3  or  4  inches  deep  just  within  the  rim, 
and  top-dress  with  rich  turfy  loam  and  decayed  manure  in  equal  parts, 
intermixed  with  a  small  handful  of  superphosphate  to  each  pot.  Where 
the  pots  are  plunged  in  fermenting  material,  strips  of  turf  about  3  inches 
square  should  be  laid  over  the  rim  so  as  to  form  the  necessary  dish.  The 
turves  should  be  watered  with  liquid  manure  and  the  plunging  material 
kept  moist,  especially  where  the  roots  are  allowed  to  find  their  way  from 
the  bottom  of  the  pots,  and  thus,  with  plenty  of  active  feeders,  secure 
well-grown  berries.  Top-dressings  of  some  approved  fertiliser  also  should 
be  supplied  occasionally,  and  liquid  manure  employed  for  watering, 
though  not  keeping  the  soil  sodden. 
To  encourage  the  swelling  of  the  berries,  keep  the  laterals  below  the 
fruit  somewhat  closely  pinched,  but  allow  those  above  the  bunches  more 
liberty.  Avoid  overcrowding,  as  only  foliage  fully  exposed  to  light 
elaborates  the  juices  fully  and  healthfully.  Careful  treatment  is 
necessary  in  ventilating  at  this  early  season,  avoiding  cold  currents,  which 
cau3e“  rust,”  prevent  free  swelling,  and  sometimes  cause  cracking 
of  the  berries.  Ventilate  early  in  the  day,  affording  a  little  air  at  70°, 
increasing  it  with  the  sun  heat  to  85°,  closing  between  that  and  80°,  aud 
if  an  advance  follow  to  90°  all  the  better.  If  red  spider  appear,  let  the 
affected  leaves  be  promptly  sponged  with  a  weak  solution  of  softsoap 
and  water,  keeping  the  atmosphere  ammoniated  by  damping  the  walls 
and  paths  occasionally  with  liquid  manure.  As  a  preventive  and  check 
on  red  spider  and  mildew  the  hot-water  pipes  may  be  brushed  over  with 
a  cream  formed  of  flowers  of  sulphur  and  skim  milk  ;  this  must  not  be 
overdone,  or  it  may  cause  the  berries  to  rust. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines.  —  The  Vines  started  early  in 
December  will  need  a  temperature  of  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  75°  by  day 
whilst  in  flower,  keeping  the  atmosphere  somewhat  drier  by  free 
ventilation,  leaving  a  little  at  night,  yet  a  genial  condition  of  the  air 
must  be  insured  by  keeping  the  floors  sprinkled  two  or  three  times  a  day 
during  bright  weather.  Any  shy  setting  varieties  may  have  the  pollen 
distributed  by  a  camel-hair  brush.  Stop  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf 
below  the  fruit,  but  those  beyond  the  bunch  may  be  allowed  to  make 
two  or  more  joints,  provided  there  is  space  for  the  full  exposure  of 
the  leaves  to  light  and  air.  Avoid  overcrowding,  it  being  better  to 
reduce  the  laterals,  yet  the  fruit  retained  must  be  proportionate 
to  the  foliage.  Where  Vines  are  heavily  cropped  they  make  corre¬ 
spondingly  little  lateral  growth,  and  the  Grapes  frequently  do  not 
colour,  but  the  same  thing  occurs  with  an  excess  of  foliage,  simply 
because  sufficient  chlorophyll  is  not  formed  for  conversion  at  the  time  of 
ripening  into  the  essential  purple  or  amber  colour.  Reduce  the  crop  when 
necessary,  so  as  to  have  more  growth  in  the  laterals  where  there  is  room 
for  them,  and  so  keep  the  roots  active,  duly  supplying  these  with 
nourishment,  thereby  maintaining  a  good  supply  of  nutrition. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  Vines  are  coming  into  leaf  and 
showing  fruit,  but  do  not  be  in  a  hurry  in  disbudding,  and  let  it  be 
done  gradually,  removing  the  weak  and  least  promising  growths  in  the 
first  instance,  then  give  further  attention  when  it  is  seen  which  shoots 
are  likely  to  afford  the  best  bunches.  One  bunch  on  a  spur  is  as  much 
as  is  likely  to  finish  satisfactorily,  but  if  there  be  space,  the  spurs  being 
widely  distant  along  the  rod,  two  shoots  may  be  left,  it  being  clearly 
understood  that  only  one  is  to  be  allowed  to  carry  fruit,  the  duplicate 
only  remaining  until  choice  can  oe  made  of  the  best,  and  in  case  of  two 
shoots  being  left,  one  ought  to  be  near  the  main  rod  to  keep  the  spur  as 
short  as  possible,  that  bearing  fruit  being  cut  away  when  the  crop  is 
cleared.  When  the  Vines  are  weak  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  allow  growth  to 
extend  where  there  is  space,  even  cutting  out  some  growths  to  allow 
this,  so  as  to  secure  stouter  wood,  larger  and  plumper  eyes,  and  better 
bunches  the  following  season.  Give  the  needful  attention  to  outside 
borders  in  protecting  them  sufficiently  to  prevent  chill  by  frost,  heavy 
rain,  or  snow. 
Vines  to  Afford  Ripe  Grapes  in  July  and  August ■ — TheiVines  must 
now  be  started,  and  as  they  break  most  evenly  and  strongly  when 
assured  a  moist  genial  atmosphere,  the  rods  should  be  damped  three 
times  a  day  and  other  surfaces  sprinkled.  It  is  a  bad  practice,  however, 
to  keep  the  rods  constantly  dripping  with  water,  for  the  tendency  in 
that  case  is  to  induce  the  emission  of  aerial  roots,  which  are  unsightly,  if, 
indeed,  they  are  not  prejudicial  in  appropriating  stored  up  matter,  which 
otherwise  would  be  expended  in  the  formation  of  roots  in  the  border. 
Maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  at  night,  55°  by  day,  and  65°  from  sun  heat 
until  the  buds  move.  If  the  inside  border  has  become  dry,  bring  it  into  a 
thoroughly  moist  but  not  sodden  condition  by  repeated  applications  of 
water  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house,  aud  if  the  Vines  are  weak 
through  heavy  cropping  afford  a  supply  of  liquid  manure,  not  befcrj 
moistening  the  border,  but  after  it  is  watered  sufficiently  for  healthy 
growth,  the  liquid  being  used  rather  thick  or  strong.  The  manurial 
elements  will  displace  or  mingle  with  the  water  previously  given,  and 
become  available  as  food  by  the  time  the  Vines  are  in  leaf,  the  soil 
having  a  strong  affinity  for  the  salts  of  the  manure,  grasping  aud 
retaining  them  for  taking  in  by  the  roots  as  required.  A  little  stable 
litter  should  be  placed  on  the  outside  border  to  prevent  chill,  but  eschew 
thick  coverings  of  manure,  particularly  such  as  are  often  left  to  settle 
into  a  soapy  mass,  giving  preference  to  lumpy,  which  will  afford  the 
needful  protection  and  admit  of  the  free  access  of  air. 
Succession  Houses.  —  Vines  allowed  to  start  of  their  own  accord 
usually  do  so  when  the  mean  external  temperature  reaches  50°,  which 
occurs  in  April  or  May  ;  but  those  under  glass  are  sooner  influenced  by 
the  warmth,  and  start  into  growth  towards  the  close  of  March  or  early 
in  April  when  kept  cool,  fire  heat  only  being  used  to  exclude  frost. 
The  Vines  being  of  the  early  and  midseason  varieties  then  ripen  the 
Grapes  in  late  August  or  during  September  with  little  assistance  from 
fire  heat,  and  are  the  cheapest  grown  ;  but  the  produce  comes  in  at  a 
time  when  other  fruits  are  plentiful  and  the  supplies  of  Grapes  from 
home  and  abroad  are  abundant,  hence  the  prices  rule  low.  It  is  an 
excellent  method,  however,  of  securing  Grapes  for  home  use  in  the  late 
summer  and  autumn  months.  The  house  must  be  kept  cool,  ventilating 
fully  on  all  favourable  occasions,  and  only  using  fire  heat  to  exclude 
frost,  even  where  there  are  plants,  for  it  is  desirable  to  keep  the  Vines 
dormant  until  April,  and  then  give  such  assistance  as  the  prevalence  of 
spring  frosts  necessitate.  Thus  the  Vines  will  have  the  summer  to  make 
their  growth  and  perfect  the  fruit  in. 
Late  Houses. — Thick-skinned  Grapes  "and  late  varieties  require  a 
long  time  to  grow  and  perfect  the  fruit  satisfactorily  for  keeping. 
Assuming  that  the  Vines  were  cleared  of  the  Grapes  early  in  January, 
and  the  borders  have  been  top-dressed  with  fresh  loam  and  an  approved 
fertiliser,  a  good  supply  of  water  should  be  given  and  a  start  made 
without  much  further  delay,  so  that  the  Grapes  may  be  thoroughly 
ripened  by  the  middle  of  September.  Keep  the  strong  young  rods  in  a 
horizontal  or  depending  position,  and  secure  an  even  break  by  syringing 
two  or  three  times  a  day.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  at 
night,  and  on  dull  days  until  the  buds  move,  then  allow  5°  to  10°  more 
by  day,  and  an  advance  of  10°  from  sun  heat,  losing  no  opportunity  of 
ventilating  freely. 
Ripe  Grapes. — Little  heat  will  be  required  in  the  Grape  room  ; 
indeeu,  less  the  better,  as  it  only  provokes  evaporation,  and  that  means 
loss  of  weight  and  shrinkage,  but  expel  damp  by  judicious  ventilation, 
striving  to  prevent  its  accumulation  by  that  means  and  a  judicious 
recourse  to  the  heating  apparatus.  An  equable  temperature  of  45°  is 
most  suitable.  Replenish  the  water  in  the  bottles  as  required  without 
spilling,  and  promptly  remove  decayed  berries. 
New  Borders. — The  compost  for  new  or  renovating  old  borders  should 
now  be  prepared.  The  best  for  the  purpose  is  the  top  2  or  3  inches  of  a 
pasture,  rich  and  friable,  and  in  nature  neither  very  light  nor  very 
heavy.  It,  however,  ia  better  rather  strong  than  light,  provided  it 
contains  plenty  of  gritty  matter.  Red  loams  are  the  best,  especially 
when  containing  a  good  percentage  of  calcareous  matter.  To  good  friable 
loam  add  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  broken  small,  removing  any 
pieces  of  wood.  Wood  ashes  or  charred  refuse  may  be  employed  to  a 
similar  extent,  and  various  other  substances  for  supplying  potash  and 
other  mineral  elements  can  be  utilised  to  advantage.  If  the  soil  is  poor, 
a  fifth  part  of  short  fiesh  stable  manure  or  horse  droppings  may  be  added, 
with  about  28  lbs.  of  crushed  bones  to  each  cartload  of  compost,  and  a 
tenth  part  of  charcoal  “  nuts.”  Soils,  however,  vary  so  much  that  no 
particular  formula  applies  to  all  cases. 
In  preparing  the  border,  provide  a  foot  of  drainage,  the  roughest  at 
the  bottom  and  smallest  at  the  top,  and  on  this  place  a  layer  of  old 
mortar  rubbish,  otherwise  secure  with  turves  grass  side  downward.  If 
the  border  is  intended  for  early  Vines,  allow  a  rather  sharp  incline  to 
the  south  or  front  of  the  outside  for  throwing  off  heavy  rains,  but  for 
early  forcing  the  roots  are  best  wholly  inside.  Indeed,  outside  planting 
is  now  almost  obsolete,  the  Vines  being  planted  inside,  and  have  borders 
both  inside  and  out.  A  width  of  6  feet  is  quite  sufficient  in  the  first 
instance,  and  that  should  be  formed  inside,  to  which  the  roots  must  be 
confined  until  the  interior  is  occupied,  not  making  the  outside  border 
until  the  Vines  are  thoroughly  established.  The  proper  time  for  planting 
Vines  is  from  the  time  the  buds  commence  swelling  until  they  are  an 
inch  or  two  long  in  growth,  they  being  cut  back  in  the  winter  to  the 
length  required,  keeping  cool,  and  when  planting  shaking  them  out, 
disentangling  the  roots  and  spreading  out  evenly  in  the  compost. 
Economy  in  Bee-keeping. 
Economy  is  one  of  the  first  and  most  important  things  beginners 
should  study.  Honey  gradually  sinking  in  price  warrants  no  outlay 
for  appliances  that  are  not  of  a  really  useful  and  lasting  nature. 
Low  priced  goods  are  often  the  dearer  in  the  end,  and  the  fewer 
the  number  of  appliances,  provided  they  are  sufficient  for  the  work, 
the  better. 
I  have  repeatedly  advised  bee-keepers  either  to  make  their  own 
comb  foundation  or  form  themselves  into  clubs,  so  that  members 
may  mutually  assist  each  other  by  purchasing  direct  from  the 
makers,  thereby  in  some  cases  saving  100  per  cent.  When  comb 
foundation  was  first  made,  and  for  some  years  after,  full  sheets 
