172 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  20,  1886. 
75°  to  80°  to  about  midday,  when,  by  diminishing  the  ventilation,  the 
temperature  may  advance  to  85°  or  90°,  closing  sufficiently  early  to 
maintain  a  good  heat  while  daylight  lasts. 
Attend  to  stopping  and  tying  as  growth  advances,  and  guard  against 
overcrowding  by  early  rubbing  off  shoots  for  which  there  is  not  space  for 
full  exposure  to  the  light.  Pinch  off  the  points  of  the  shoots  at  the  fifth 
leaf  if  necessary  to  secure  symmetrical  habit,  otherwise  Bturdy  growths 
afford  the  finest  fruit  when  unpinched.  As  the  branches  may  not  always 
be  thinned  without  sacrificing  some  fruit,  and  cutting  out  when  the  sap 
is  most  active  being  very  inadvisable,  tie  such  out,  putting  in  the 
needful  stakes.  Any  excess  branches  are  best  cut  out  when  the  fruit  is 
gathered,  and  the  growths  left  ripen  better  in  consequence. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Fig  Trees. — The  house  started  at  the 
new  year  is  very  promising,  the  trees  and  young  Figs  growing  freely. 
The  trees  must  be  attended  to  for  disbudding,  exercising  judgment  as  to 
what  shoots  to  reserve  for  succession  and  stopping,  always  removing 
surplus  when  in  bud  state.  Where  there  is  room  the  leading  shoots 
may  be  allowed  to  the  extremity  without  stopping,  and  no  more  Bhould 
be  laid-in  than  there  is  space  for  insuring  full  exposure  to  light,  reserving 
a  few  growths  where  there  is  room  without  interfering  with  the  succes- 
sional  shoots,  and  pinching  at  the  fifth  leaf.  These  so-called  spurs  will 
give  second  crop  Figs,  and  may  be  useful  for  displacing  shoots  cut  out 
later,  but  it  is  not  good  practice  to  encourage  spur  growths.  Mulch  the 
borders  lightly  with  thoroughly  decayed  lumpy  manure,  and  sprinkle  on 
it  a  handful  per  square  yard  occasionally  of  bone  superphosphate,  or  if 
somewhat  free  in  growth  use  mineral  superphosphate.  The  mulching 
will  attract  the  roots  to  the  surface,  where  they  can  be  easily  supplied 
with  nutrition  as  needed,  supplying  water  as  required,  with  liquid 
manure  in  the  case  of  trees  needing  support  through  limited  rooting 
area.  A  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  at  night,  60°  to  65°  by  day  artificially, 
70“  to  75°  with  a  little  sun,  rising  to  80°  or  85°  in  bright  weather  is 
suitable. 
Late  Fig  Rouses. — Complete  the  pruning — a  bad  practice  so  late, 
it  being  better  done  in  the  late  summer  or  when  the  crop  is  cleared — 
and  dressing  of  the  trees,  using  a  brush  and  carbolic  or  petroleum  soft- 
soap  to  cleanse  them  of  scale  and  hibernating  red  spider,  or  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  petroleum  to  a  quart  of  water,  in  which  5  ozs.  of  the  best 
softsoap  has  been  dissolved  by  boiling,  adding  the  petroleum  while  hot, 
and  stirring  in  briskly  till  amalgamated.  This,  when  cool  enough,  say 
130°,  may  be  used  on  hard  wood,  and  diluted,  half  with  hot  water,  on 
the  rest  of  the  tree,  taking  care  not  to  damage  the  young  Figs.  Toe 
old  mulching  or  loose  surface  soil  should  be  removed,  and  a  little  fresh 
loam  and  decayed  manure  supplied,  sprinkling  on  it  4  ozs.  per  square 
yard  of  some  approved  fertiliser,  pointing  in  lightly,  or  covering  with 
a  little  compost.  Keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible,  merely  excluding 
frost. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — The  recent  favour¬ 
able  weather  has  made  the  trees  look  well,  and  the  fruit  profits  accord¬ 
ingly.  A  night  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  and  60°  to  65°  by  day  had  been 
secured  without  much  recourse  to  fire  heat ;  also  5°  to  10°  advance 
from  sun,  and  with  free  ventilation  which  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
delight  in,  so  that  satisfactory  progress  has  been  made.  When  the 
growth  is  strong  the  whole  of  the  forerigbt  shoots  may  be  taken 
off  at  once,  and  some  of  the  side  shoots  pinched  back  to  form 
spurs,  but  not  on  growths  that  will  be  removed  after  the  fruit  is 
gathered,  retaining  the  best  breaks  from  the  base  of  the  shoots  now 
bearing.  Trees  that  have  set  heavy  crops  of  fruit  should  have  the 
least  promising  removed,  especially  those  badly  placed,  and  to  help 
weakly  trees  afford  liquid  manure  when  moisture  is  required  at  the 
roots,  or  supply  4  ozs.  per  square  jard  of  a  good  all-round  fertiliser. 
If  the  trees  have  a  tendency  to  produce  long,  weakly  growths,  pale  in 
colour,  use  a  mixture  of  two  parts  air-slaked  chalk  lime  and  one  part 
fresh  dry  clean  soot,  mixing  thoroughly  and  appl>  ing  without  delay, 
using  £  lb.  per  square  yard.  This,  from  the  ammonia  and  mineral  matter 
of  the  soot,  with  the  lime  acting  on  organic  matter  in  the  soil,  for  the 
dressings  should  be  lightly  pointed  in  to  prevent  the  loss  of  ammonia, 
will  supply  present  food  and  a  continuance  of  nutrition,  which  without 
the  lime  would  remain  inert,  and  certainly  not  nearly  so  available,  if  not 
in  some  respect  injurious. 
Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  with  water  of  the 
same  temperature  as  the  house,  and  always  sufficiently  early  to  allow 
the  foliage  to  become  dry  before  night.  On  dull  days  omit  the  afternoon 
syringing,  also  the  morning  when  cold  and  sunless,  damping  the  paths 
and  borders  instead.  Ventilate  from  60°,  increasing  with  the  sun  heat, 
taking  care  to  avoid  cold  draughts  and  sudden  depressions  of  tempe¬ 
rature,  which  cripple  the  foliage  and  sometimes  causing  the  fruit  to  fall. 
Second  Early  House — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  set,  or 
nearly  so,  the  fruit,  and  need  to  be  syringed  carefully  after  that  is 
effected,  so  as  to  better  enable  them  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the 
flowers.  A  night  temperature  of  50°  is  safe  in  severe  weather  and 
55°  by  day,  5°  more  in  mild  weather,  with  5°  to  10°  rise  from  sun  heat. 
Ventilation  should  be  increased  (a  little  being  left  on  constantly)  from 
55°,  and  having  it  full  at  65°,  then  the  trees  will  form  sturdy  growths 
and  foliage  capable  of  assimilating  nutrition  for  the  current  crop, 
and  making  provision  for  a  succeeding  ona  Disbud  gradually  and 
judiciously  when  the  fruit  is  fairly  swelling,  and  when  begun  follow  it 
up  day  by  day.  Where  there  is  a  thick  set  of  fruit  remove  the  smallest 
and  worst  placed  by  degrees.  Examine  the  inside  border,  and  if  dry 
afford  a  thorough  supply  of  water,  followed,  if  necessary,  by  liquid 
nourishment  or  a  top-dressing  of  a  fertiliser  washed  in  moderately. 
Avoid,  however,  making  the  soil  sodden  or  needlessly  supplying  manure, 
which  in  some  cases  is  too  abundant  and  in  others  deficient. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — In  the  house  started  at  the  beginning 
of  this  month  the  flowers  are  all  aglow  with  beauty,  and  give  off  a 
fragrance  that  betrays  abundance  of  nectar.  The  trees  must  be  free 
from  fungal  and  insect  pests,  or  results  will  not  be  satisfactory.  When 
the  anthers  show  clear  of  the  corollas  cease  syringing,  maintaining  a 
genial  atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning 
and  early  afternoon  of  fine  days.  Turn  on  the  heat  in  the  morning  to 
secure  and  keep  a  temperature  of  50°  by  day,  ventilating  from  55°, 
allowing  an  advance  to  60°  or  65°  with  a  free  circulation  of  air, 
employing  fire  heat  only  at  night  to  keep  the  temperature  between 
40°  and  45°,  and,  with  a  little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  constantly, 
there  is  no  fear  of  the  pollen  being  converted  into  paste  by  moisture  or 
of  this  settling  on  the  petals  to  discolour  them.  Where  there  is  a  great 
show  of  blossom  remove  that  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots.  Supply 
water  to  the  border  if  in  need  of  moisture.  Fertilise  the  blossoms  when 
fully  expanded  and  the  pollen  is  ripe. 
Houses  to  Afford  Ripe  Fruit  in  Late  July  and  Early  August. — These 
planted  with  the  choicest  midseason  varieties  should  be  closed  early  in 
March.  When  the  blossoms  are  retarded  and  will  not  keep  from  develop¬ 
ing  there  is  nothing  for  it  but  to  secure  safety  from  frost  after  the  buds 
show  colour,  svringing  occasionally  up  to  that,  then  ceasing,  and  instead 
of  allowing  the  flowers  to  perish,  as  they  certainly  will  do  in  a  cold, 
close,  moist  atmosphere,  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  by  day,  and  with 
ventilation  from  that  point  an  advance  may  be  made  from  sun  heat  to 
60°  or  65°,  employing  fire  heat  only  at  night  to  keep  the  temperature 
between  40°  and  45°.  This  will  insure  a  good  set  of  fruit,  and  by  liberal 
ventilation  afterwards  the  crop  can  be  so  timed  as  to  ripen  at  the  desired 
period.  Where  the  blossoms  are  superabundant,  remove  those  on  the 
under  side  or  back  of  the  shoots,  drawing  the  hand  the  reverse  way  of 
the  growths.  See  that  there  is  no  aphides,  for  cleanliness  is  all- 
important,  fumigating  if  there  be  the  least  trace. 
Late  Houses. — Unheated  structures  with  the  roof  lights  fixed  are  the 
worst  possible  in  an  early  season,  as  the  flowering  is  early,  and  spring 
frosts,  with  damp  and  cold  weather  frequently  prevail,  so  that  the  set 
of  fruit  is  often  better  on  walls  with  protection  than  under  glass.  With 
the  roof  lights  off  the  buds  are  quite  dormant,  and  need  not  be  replaced 
until  the  buds  commence  swelling,  and  the  colour  “  peeps  ”  in  the 
forwardest.  Under  fixed  roofs  ventilate  freely,  and  where  there  is  heat 
merely  exclude  frost.  Heat  is  absolutely  essential  in  cold  districts,  as 
the  blossom  is  not  safe  from  spring  frosts,  and  the  fruit  does  not  ripen 
perfectly  if  the  season  be  cold  and  sunless,  as  is  often  the  case  after 
forward  springs.  Besides,  a  gentle  heat  during  flowering  does  much 
towards  securing  a  good  set,  and  in  late  summer  and  autumn  gentle 
artificial  heat  is  sometimes  necessary,  and  in  many  cases  of  doubtfulness 
desirable,  to  make  sure  of  perfectly  ripening  the  fruit  and  wood.  Indeed, 
the  latest  varieties  cannot  be  depended  upon  to  produce  good  fruit  in 
cold  localities  without  aid  in  backward  seasons,  and  some  of  the  latest 
sorts  are  noble  in  appearance,  good  in  quality  when  the  trees  are  well 
nourished,  a  little  heat  making  great  difference  in  the  fruit  as  regards  its 
thorough  ripening.  Borders  that  have  been  exposed  are  thoroughly 
moistened  through  to  the  drainage,  and  will  not  require  watering  until 
the  fruit  is  advanced  in  swelling.  Inside  borders  under  fixed  roofs 
should  be  examined,  and  if  at  all  dry  be  well  supplied  with  water.  The 
liability  of  such  borders  to  become  dry  whilst  the  trees  are  at  rest 
is  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  the  buds  being  cast  when  the  trees  should  be 
developing  their  flowers,  while  in  the  case  of  exposed  borders  bud¬ 
casting  is  reduced  to  a  minimum. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. — Cuttings  taken  from  old  plants  before 
these  have  been  started  into  growth  frequently  fail  to  root.  Spring 
rooted  plants  of  the  bronze  and  tricolor  sections  usually  surpass  those 
rooted  in  the  autumn.  Cuttings  may  either  be  placed  singly  in  small 
pots  or  in  well  drained  6-inch  or  larger  pots.  Keep  a  little  on  the  dry 
side  at  first,  top  directly  they  commence  growing  afresh,  and  either  place 
singly  in  small  pots  or  give  more  room  in  larger  pots  and  boxes.  If  the 
old  plants  are  kept  in  heat  they  will  give  later  cuttings,  and  yet  be  useful 
for  filling  up  border  space  afterwards.  Autumn  rooted  plants  should  be 
topped,  and  when  they  break  afresh  be  then  either  placed  singly  in 
2^-inch  pots  or  given  more  room  in  boxes,  keeping  them  growing  in  gentle 
heat  till  they  are  large  and  strong  enough  for  cooler  quarters.  The  Ivy- 
leaf  section  should  also  be  started  into  growth  before  cuttings  are  taken. 
Heliotropes. — These  are  deservedly  popular  for  bedding  purposes, 
the  more  compact  dark  flowering  varieties  proving  the  most  effective. 
Strong,  old  pot  plants  of  these  should  have  been  saved,  and,  if  not 
already  done,  lightly  prune  them  and  place  in  a  forcing  house.  They 
will  soon  produce  a  number  of  cuttings  which  root  quickly  in  close  pro¬ 
pagating  frames,  or  in  well-drained  boxes  covered  with  squares  of  glass, 
and  shaded  when  necessary.  A  cutting  ought  to  be  taken  from  each  of 
these  youne  plants  by  way  of  topping,  and  soon  after  they  may  either 
be  placed  singly  in  small  pots  or  disposed  in  boxes  of  good  soil.  Trained 
plants  in  pots  plunged  in  the  turf  are  effective,  and  these  should  be  now 
started  into  growth.  Directly  the  plants  are  moving  shake  nearly  clear 
of  the  old  soil  and  repot  in  a  moderately  rich,  light  loamy  compost. 
Keep  them  growing  in  heat  till  such  time  as  blank  spaces  have  been 
clothed  by  means  of  long  shoots  laid  in,  after  which  a  light  warm  green¬ 
house  is  the  best  place  for  the  plants. 
Verbenas. — Stock  plants,  arranged  somewhat  thickly  in  small 
pots,  ought  to  be  repotted,  and  placed  in  a  fairly  brisk,  moist  heat  to 
promote  the  formation  of  abundance  of  soft  shoots.  When  there  is 
plenty  of  sap  in  the  cuttings  they  root  readily  under  the  treatment 
advised  in  the  case  of  Heliotropes.  Seedling  Verbenas  are  the  most 
