February  27,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
193 
WORUmitheWEEK,. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Pruning-  Cob  lffuts  and  Filberts. — Nuts  grown  on  the  restrictive 
method,  which  is  on  the  whole  the  best,  need  special  attention  about  this 
time  in  order  to  prune  away  superfluous  parts,  such  as  unfruitful  wood, 
Buckers,  reducing  lateral  shoots  furnished  wilh  staminate  blooms  in 
quantities  more  than  sufficient  for  the  purposes  of  fertilisation. 
Nut  trees  produce  monoecious — that  is,  male  and  female  flowers 
distinct  on  the  same  plant,  usually  known  as  staminate  and  pistillate 
flowers.  Staminate  blossoms  are  termed  catkins.  They  depend  con¬ 
spicuously  from  the  branches  and  have  a  brush-like  appearance.  Pistillate 
flowers  are  inconspicuous.  They  are  visible  in  March,  being  found  at 
the  apex  of  rather  swollen  buds,  and  protrude  when  fully  open  thread¬ 
like  crimson  styles.  The  pollen  of  the  staminate  flowers  becomes  ripe 
at  the  same  time,  and  being  set  free  falls  on  the  stigmas  of  the  pistillate 
flowers  below,  effecting  fertilisation. 
Pruning  Fruiting  Bushes. — The  object  in  pruning  is  to  retain  nothing 
but  useful  parts.  If  pruning  is  carried  out  before  the  flowering  period, 
a  sufficient  number  of  shoots  containing  catkins  distributed  as  evenly 
over  the  trees  as  possible  must  be  retained.  These  can  be  shortened 
after  flowering.  Long  lateral  shoots  bearing  the  female  blossom  buds 
may  be  shortened  to  these.  Short  twiggy  growths  can  be  left  full  length, 
the  terminal  bud  being  fruitful.  Shoots  barren  of  blossom  buds  may  be 
shortened  closely  in  for  producing  successional  growths. 
When  catkins  are  scarce  on  any  particular  bush  some  must  be  procured 
from  more  liberally  furnished  trees  and  hung  in  convenient  positions  for 
dispersing  the  pollen. 
Removing  Suckers. — It  is  imperative  that  suckers  be  eliminated, 
because  the  strong  growth  they  invariably  assume  robs  the  bushes  of 
valuable  support.  Strong  portions  may  be  planted  elsewhere  if  necessary 
to  increase  stock. 
Pruning  Young  Plants. — New  plantations  are  best  formed  from 
suckers  planted  in  the  autumn.  In  forming  a  specimen  into  trained  Bhape 
from  suckers,  a  single  stem  of  the  latter  must  be  shortened  to  18  inches, 
if  strong  ;  if  weakly,  shorten  near  the  ground,  training  up  one  stem, 
thus  giving  another  year’s  growth.  Prune  to  18  inches  the  next  autumn. 
The  buds  at  the  apex  of  this  shoot  will  break  into  growth  in  the  spring, 
furnishing  shoots,  six  of  which  should  be  selected,  training  them 
outwards,  and  forming  a  basin-hke  shape,  which  will  finally  constitute 
the  form  of  the  bush.  When  six  shoots  of  equal  strength  cannot  be  had, 
utilise  three  of  the  strongest,  shortening  them  in  the  winter  to  4  inches, 
taking  up  two  shoots  from  each,  which  will  make  up  the  number  to  9ix. 
If  more  are  required  to  form  the  framework  of  the  bush  they  may  be 
originated  in  the  same  way.  The  shoots  are  easily  trained  if  a  wooden 
hoop'is  placed  in  the  centre,  to  which  they  can  he  secured.  The  main 
stem  below  the  shoots  must  be  kept  clear  of  growths  issuing  from  it, 
and  suckers  from  the  base  rigidly  kept  down.  The  branches  in  the 
course  of  formation  require  each  year  to  be  shortened  to  two-thirds  of  their 
length,  in  order  that  lateral  shoots  may  be  produced,  these  being  cut  back 
in  autumn  to  buds  near  the  stem.  Growths  that  push  strongly  during 
the  summer  season  ought  to  be  pinched,  as  it  is  important  to  regulate 
growth  so  that  no  part  robs  another. 
Planting-  Raspberries. — Raspberries  require  deep,  rich,  well- 
worked  soil.  In  its  preparation  it  is  advisable  to  be  liberal  with  manure 
for  the  benefit  of  the  stronger  roots,  which  descend  deeply,  and  are  the 
means  of  establishing  the  plants  firmly  in  the  soil.  This  encourages 
vigorous  growth  the  first  season.  Robust  suckers  may  be  planted  either 
in  lines  or  clumps,  in  rows  5  feet  asunder.  The  clumps  may  be  3  feet 
apart  in  the  rows.  In  no  case  ought  fruit  to  be  expected  from  plantations 
the  first  year.  Gut  the  canes  closely  down  to  the  ground,  which  will 
prevent  the  possibility  of  any  fruiting  the  first  season,  but  insures  a 
desirable  growth  of  woody  stout  fruiting  canes  for  the  following  year. 
A  surface  mulching  of  manure  encourages  the  formation  of  fibrous  roots, 
and  maintains  the  moisture  necessary  to  retain  them  near  the  surface. 
Blackberries. — On  strong  rich  soil,  well  enriched  at  the  outset 
with  manure,  and  thoroughly  worked,  several  rows  of  this  fruit  prove 
most  profitable  and  useful  towards  the  autumn.  The  plants  require  some 
time  to  establish  themselves  after  planting,  and  to  enable  them  to  carry 
this  out  satisfactorily  fruiting  should  be  deferred  until  the  third  season. 
Young  plants  are  the  best  to  insert.  Cut  them  down  close  to  the  ground 
the  first  season — that  is,  immediately  after  planting.  Treat  them  the 
same  the  following  winter  if  the  growth  has  not  been  of  sufficient 
length  and  vigour.  The  longer  and  stronger  the  canes  are  the  better 
will  be  the  crop.  Plant  in  clumps  5  feet  apart,  the  lines  or  rows  of 
these  being  8  to  10  feet  asunder.  Drive  down  stout  stakes  to  each 
clump,  leaving  them  about  6  feet  high,  also  midway  between.  To  these 
attach  horizontal  and  diagonal  pieces,  forming  a  trellis  on  which  the 
long  vigorous  growths  may  be  trained  when  they  are  in  time  produced. 
Select  a  sheltered  position  for  Blackberries.  Though  naturally  of 
robust  growth  and  constitution,  yet  they  do  not  like  full  exposure  to 
the  action  of  cutting  winds. 
A  manurial  mulching  after  planting  is  beneficial.  Annual  applica¬ 
tions  of  manure  spread  over  the  space  between  the  plants  are  necessary 
for  affording  support  to  the  abundant  surface  roots,  and  encouraging 
the  production  of  good  crops.  At  each  annual  pruning  thin  out  the 
weakest  growths,  retaining  only  five  or  six  of  the  best  to  each  clump  of 
roots. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — Any  check,  either  through  dry¬ 
ness  at  the  roots  or  aridity  of  the  atmosphere,  is  unfavourable  to  the 
health  of  the  Vines  and  the  swelling  of  thedr  crops.  If  the  roots  cannot 
have  the  run  of  the  fermenting  bed,  either  place  a  ring  of  turf  about 
3  inches  wide  and  deep  on  the  rim  of  the  pot,  extending  over  about  half 
an  inch,  and  secure  just  within  the  rim  with  galvanised  wire  pegs,  or 
place  strips  of  zinc  3  or  4  inches  deep  round  the  tops  of  the  pots, 
inserting  them  just  within  the  rim,  which,  as  in  the  former  case,  will 
form  a  dish,  and  this  should  be  utilised  for  top-dressing  with  a  compost 
formed  of  equal  parts  good  turfy  loam  and  thoroughly  decayed  manure, 
intermixing  with  it  a  handful  of  soot  and  air-slaked  lime  mixed  to  every 
peck.  This,  in  equal  parts  of  soot  and  lime,  will  sweeten  the  Boil  and 
render  its  components  more  readily  available,  whilst  contributing 
nourishment  directly.  If  the  pots  are  plunged  in  fermenting  material 
or  stood  on  pedestals  with  that  brought  up  to  the  rims,  strips  of  turf 
about  3  inches  thick  should  be  laid  over  the  rim  to  form  the  necessary 
dish.  Keep  the  Vines  watered  with  weak  liquid  manure  at  the  same 
temperature  as  the  medium  in  which  the  roots  are  growing,  and  where 
the  Vines  extend  their  roots  into  the  plunging  material  keep  this  and 
the  turves  sweet,  there  being  nothing  like  active  feeders  and  plenty  of 
wholesome  food  to  secure  well-filled  berries  and  their  satisfactory  finish. 
Avoid,  however,  any  approach  to  soddenness  of  soil. 
To  encourage  the  swelling  of  the  berries  keep  the  laterals  below  the 
fruit  somewhat  closely  stopped,  but  allow  those  above  the  bunches  more 
liberty,  yet  avoid  overcrowding  the  space  with  foliage  that  cannot  have 
full  exposure  to  light.  The  earliest  started  are  stoning,  and  this  is  a 
critical  time,  necessitating  careful  treatment,  especially  in  ventilating, 
taking  care  to  avoid  cold  currents  of  air,  which  frequently  cause  “  rust,” 
and  harden  the  epidermis,  so  that  the  berries  do  not  afterwards  swell 
freely,  and  in  some  varieties  cause  cracking.  Ventilate  early  in  the  day, 
affording  a  little  air  at  70°,  increasing  it  with  sun  heat  to  85°,  closing 
between  that  and  80°,  and  if  an  advance  follow  up  to  90°  all  the  better. 
Red  spider  usually  puts  in  appearance,  and  should  be  prevented  from 
spreading  by  sponging  the  first  specks  with  a  solution  of  softsoap  and 
water,  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon.  The  pest  has  a  dislike  of  an  ammoniated 
atmosphere,  or  moisture  in  any  form  ;  also  of  sulphur  fumes  and  nicotine 
vapour.  A  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  is,  therefore,  of  primary 
importance,  and  when  the  air  moisture  bolds  a  little  ammonia  the  Vines 
profit,  and  the  red  spider  is  retarded  correspondingly.  Neat  stable  or 
cowhouse  drainings,  diluted  with  six  times  the  bulk  of  water,  answer  for 
sprinkling  ;  also  Peruvian  guano,  1  lb.  to  twenty  gallons  of  water, 
dissolved  and  strained  before  use,  applying  it  at  the  rate  of  about  a 
gallon  to  a  dozen  square  yards  of  surface,  such  as  paths,  and  not  for 
general  damping  purposes,  which  must  be  attended  to  two  or  three 
times,  using  the  ammoniated  water  about  twice  a  week,  or  regularly,  for 
filling  the  evaporation  troughs. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Houses  started  early  in  December 
will  now  have  set  the  fruit,  and  need  to  have  the  berries  thinned,  in 
effecting  which  lose  no  time  as  soon  as  it  can  be  seen  which  are  properly 
fertilised  by  their  takiDg  the  lead  in  swelling.  Remove  badly  set 
and  ill-shaped  clusters,  seeking  a  full  crop  of  good  shaped,  perfectly 
finished  berries.  Allow  laterals  to  extend  beyond  the  fruit  where  there 
is  space  for  its  exposure  to  light,  yet  do  not  encourage  growth  to  the 
prejudice  of  the  principal  leaves.  Attend  to  stopping  frequently,  for 
the  alternating  accelerations  and  checks  to  root  action  consequent  on 
encouraging  the  laterals  and  then  removing  them  by  armfuls,  are 
attended  by  the  worst  consequences  to  the  foliage  and  fruit.  Afford  a 
thorough  supply  of  liquid  nourishment  to  the  inside  borders  at  intervals, 
as  required  to  maintain  the  soil  in  a  thorough  moist  condition,  but  do 
not  supply  it  till  the  border  is  getting  rather  dry.  If  the  Vines  need 
feeding  it  is  better  to  moisten  the  border  properly  with  water,  and 
afterwards  supply  the  liquid,  using  about  4  gallons  per  square  yard.  A 
light  mulching  of  short  lumpy  manure,  such  as  is  prepared  for  Mush¬ 
room  beds,  tends  to  encourage  surface  roots,  but  avoid  fresh  horse 
droppings  in  quantity,  as  they  give  off  too  much  ammonia  vapour, 
especially  when  the  house  is  kept  close. 
Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day, 
advancing  to  S5°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  commencing  to  ventilate  from  70°, 
keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°  when  external  conditions  are 
favourable,  closing  between  these  temperatures,  damping  at  the  time  or 
early  in  the  afternoon.  Avoid  syringing  the  foliage  and  fruit,  as  however 
clear  the  water  may  appear  there  is  danger  of  sediment,  and  almost 
invariably  a  deposit  is  inseparable  from  the  use  of  the  syringe  over  the 
Vines  after  the  Grapes  are  set.  All  appears  clear  until  those  begin  to 
colour,  then  the  purple  is  seen  stained  with  white  and  the  golden  hue 
marbled,  in  both  of  which  it  is  a  serious  blemish.  Outside  borders  should 
be  protected  against  severe  frosts  and  chills  from  cold  rains  or  melted 
snow. 
Early  Muscats. — The  house  closed  early  in  December  and  the  Vines 
started  by  the  middle  of  that  month,  with  acceleration  from  the  new 
year,  will  be  approaching  the  floweiing  stage,  and  need  a  temperature  of 
65°  to  70°  at  night,  75°  to  80°  by  day,  and  10°  to  15°  rise  from  sun  heat, 
closing  at  between  80°  and  85°  when  bright  weather  prevails.  It  is 
desirable  to  keep  the  points  of  the  bunches  well  up  to  the  light,  indeed 
