194 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  27,  1896. 
Muscats  never  thrive  beneath  a  dense  canopy  of  foliage.  When  they 
commence  flowering  it  is  desirable  to  dust  the  bunches  with  a  camel-hair 
brush  and  fertilise  every  one  with  the  pollen  of  a  free  setting  variety, 
that  of  Alicante  being  the  most  potent  of  any  for  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
and  Canon  Hall.  Black  or  Muscat  Hamburgh  forces  readily,  but 
invariably  sets  badly  and  colours  very  indifferently,  being  little  affected 
by  cross-fertilisation,  and  is  probably  much  nearer  the  species  than  any 
other  high-class  Grape.  Madresfield  Court  is  a  decided  improvement  in 
respect  of  constitution,  setting  and  finishing,  but  it  seems  by  no  means 
clear  of  some  of  its  faults  and  should  be  carefully  fertilised. 
Early  Muscats  require  inside  borders,  and  to  ripen  early  in  June 
must  be  pushed  ahead,  the  thing  being  to  give  plenty  of  beat  and  not 
pinch  for  air,  for  unless  the  foliage  is  well  developed  it  will  not  bear 
the  early  summer  sun,  nor  will  the  Grapes  bear  exposure  to  it  without 
scorching  or  scalding.  Muscats  require  plenty  of  nourishment  at  the 
roots,  and  revel  in  a  border  of  rather  firm  gritty  material  of  a  sustaining 
nature,  never  being  satisfactory  in  very  light  soils  ;  but  these  are  often 
made  suitable  by  mulching  and  application  of  rather  thick  liquid 
manure.  Lime  is  the  measure  of  their  health,  especially  phosphate,  and 
that  of  dissolved  raw  bones  allowed  to  lie  until  mellow,  and  then  having 
some  nitrate  of  potash  and  sulphate  of  magnesia  added  to  it,  suits 
Muscats  admirably.  It  iB  lack  of  essential  food  that  causes  the  white- 
edged  leaf,  and  is  one  reason  why  Muscats  are  so  much  more  difficult  to 
do  well  than  other  Grapes. 
Cucumbers. — Light  and  sun  heat  increase  evaporation.  Damp  the 
house  twice  a  day,  and  syringe  the  plants  lightly  early  on  fine  after¬ 
noons.  On  cold  nights  65°  is  ample,  but  in  mild  weather  allow  5°  more, 
maintaining  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat, 
closing  early  so  as  to  increase  and  retain  the  heat  at  90°  to  100°  for  some 
time.  Afford  weak  liquid  manure  twice  a  week,  or  top-dress  with 
a  fertiliser  and  wash  in.  If  the  plants  are  at  all  pale  in  colour  use  a  little 
soot,  and  if  the  soil  contains  much  organic  matter  mix  with  the  soot 
two  parts  of  air-slaked  lime,  and  apply  at  once  at  the  rate  of  half  a  pound 
per  square  yard,  covering  with  a  little  soil  to  prevent  loss  of  ammonia. 
Stop  the  shoots  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit  ;  thin  these  well,  removing 
superfluous  growths,  bad  leaves,  tendrils,  and  male  blossoms.  Ventilate 
early  and  carefully,  avoiding  cold  draughts  and  sudden  depressions  or 
fluctuations  of  temperature. 
Melons. — In  Pits  and  Frames. — Plants  to  have  the  shoots  trained 
over  the  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  stopped  at  the  second  leaf  before 
or  after  planting  out,  causing  two  or  more  shoots  to  follow,  as  growths 
sometimes  spring  from  the  seed  leaves,  and  these  in  turn  being  pinched 
will  give  four  shoots,  two  to  be  taken  to  the  front,  and  two  to  the  back 
of  the  frame.  Other  growths  that  appear  near  the  collar  of  the  plant 
should  be  rubbed  off  while  young,  not  encouraging  any  laterals  nearer 
the  stem  than  6  inches,  as  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  neck  clear.  Stop 
the  principal  shoots  when  within  a  foot  of  the  sides  of  the  pit  or  frame, 
thus  throwing  vigour  into  the  laterals,  and  the  growths  must  not  be 
crowded.  The  laterals  will  show  fruit  at  the  second  or  third  joint,  and  they 
should  be  pinched  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  but  not  until  the  blossom 
is  fertilised.  Little  water  will  be  required,  nevertheless  maintain  the 
soil  in  a  moist  state,  but  avoid  a  saturated  condition.  Cover  the  lights 
with  double  mats  at  night,  and  see  that  the  linings  are  regularly  attended 
to,  renewing  as  required.  Prepare  materials  for  fresh  beds  and  linings. 
Three  parts  Oak,  Spanish  Chestnut,  or  Beech  leaves,  and  one  part  stable 
litter  make  the  best  beds,  mixing  the  materials  about  a  fortnight  before 
it  is  desired  to  make  the  beds.  In  a  few  days  it  will  be  seen  whether 
there  is  enough  moisture  to  insure  fermentation  ;  if  not,  turn  the  whole, 
and  sprinkle  with  water  or  liquid  manure,  and  when  in  good  heat  turn 
the  heap  outside  to  inside,  two  or  three  turnings  being  required  at 
intervals  of  about  four  days.  Maintain  the  bottom  heat  at  85°  to  90°, 
taking  care,  however,  to  prevent  overheating. 
Melon  Houses. — For  placing  out  young  plants  a  ridge  about  2  feet 
wide  at  the  base  with  the  top  flattened,  so  as  to  give  a  depth  of  about 
10  or  12  inches,  is  preferable  to  hillocks,  though  these  may  be  made 
about  the  same  in  diameter  as  the  width  of  the  ridge,  and  its  depth, 
having  the  centre  where  the  plants  are  to  be  put  out,  which  should  be 
2£  to  3  feet  apart,  according  to  vigour  of  variety.  The  soil  must  be 
firm,  and  when  warm  planting  may  be  done,  keeping  the  seed  leaves 
clear  of  the  soil.  The  leading  shoots  should  be  taken  up  two-thirds  of 
the  distance  without  stopping,  then  pinch  out  the  point  of  each,  and  rub 
off  the  laterals  to  the  height  of  the  trellis.  Some  varieties  show  fruit 
freely  on  the  first  laterals,  and  as  early  fruit  is  a  main  feature  in  the 
case  of  the  first  plants  allow  them  to  remain,  taking  out  the  point  of 
the  shoot  at  the  joint  above  the  fruit  at  the  time  of  fertilising  the 
blossom.  To  allow  all  the  laterals  to  remain  would  very  much  overcrowd 
the  foliage,  therefore  rub  off  whilst  quite  young  every  alternate  one.  If 
the  laterals  do  not  show  fruit  at  the  pecond  or  third  joint  pinch  them  at 
those  points,  and  the  succeeding  ones  will  show  fruit.  Train  the  growths 
thinly  and  regularly,  so  that  every  part  is  equally  furnished  with  foliage, 
all  having  due  exposure  to  light. 
More  moisture  is  now  necessary  in  Melon  houses,  therefore  sprinkle 
the  paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  of  hot  days,  and  again  at  closing 
time  or  early  in  the  afternoon.  Ventilate  carefully,  avoiding  cold 
currents  of  air,  placing  some  hexagon  netting  or  scrim  canvas  over  the 
ventilators  when  the  external  air  is  sharp.  Maintain  a  night  tempera¬ 
ture  of  65°,  5°  more  in  mild,  and  5°  less  in  severe  weather,  a  rather  low 
night  temperature  being  better  than  a  high  one  and  a  dry  atmosphere, 
yet  it  must  not  be  of  long  duration  or  the  plants  become  stunted  in 
growth.  The  day  temperature  should  be  kept  at  70°  to  75°,  rising  to  80° 
or  85°  from  sun  heat,  and  closing  early  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°  to  100°. 
Keep  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°  to  85°.  Sow  seed  for  raising  young 
plants  to  sustain  the  succession,  and  shift  seedlings  into  larger  pots,  or 
add  soil  as  the  plants  advance,  stopping  those  for  frames  at  the  second 
rough  leaf,  but  not  for  trellises. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — The  earliest  plants  now  ripening  their 
fruit  should  have  a  drier  and  more  freely  ventilated  house,  but  there 
must  not  be  any  sudden  change  or  the  fruit  will  not  ripen  well,  For 
swelling  the  temperature  should  be  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day, 
advancing  to  80°  or  85°  with  sun,  and  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture, 
and  after  the  fruit  changes  colour  the  atmosphere  ought  to  be  kept 
cooler  and  drier,  so  as  to  insure  flavour.  The  second  batch  of  plants 
have  set  well,  and  been  thinned,  a  matter  too  frequently  neglected. 
This  enables  the  plants  to  produce  large  fruit,  half  a  dozen  being  better 
than  a  dozen  small,  but  regard  must  be  had  to  the  variety  and  the 
requirements.  Give  liquid  manure  copiously  as  often  as  required, 
examining  the  plants  twice  a  day,  in  bright  weather  thrice,  for  the 
purpose.  Plants  in  vineries  and  Peach  houses  come  on  successionally, 
and  need  not  be  moved  except  to  meet  special  requirements.  Straw¬ 
berries  of  the  larger  varieties  placed  in  span-roofed  frames  afford  grand 
fruit  a  fortnight  to  three  weeks  earlier  than  those  in  the  open  ground. 
See  to  this  at  once  if  desired  to  have  them. 
W. 
Ihebbe-meperM 
. 1-1-j  ■  j  -  )  -t-.-T- 1  -  I  -  I  - 1  -r- 1-1  -  r-i-rrr-  r-i  -r.  i-  O'  (l~£ 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
With  the  exception  of  the  2nd,  17th,  and  21st  of  February, 
when  on  each  of  these  days  the  sun  shone  a  little,  the  rest  of  the 
month  in  this  county  has  been  raw,  the  ground  damp  and  cold  ; 
and  although  many  flowers  enliven  the  borders,  Crocuses  do  not 
open  nor  dispense  their  pollen  to  the  bees,  which  have  been  more 
or  less  on  the  wing  since  the  beginning  of  the  year.  When  they 
rest  on  the  ground  many  never  rise,  and  so  far  as  I  can  remember 
this  is  the  most  disastrous  year  for  them  I  ever  experienced. 
Snowdrops  began  to  open  on  the  2nd  of  January,  and  bees  wrought 
on  them,  but  got  no  pollen  ;  much  better  for  them  had  they  been 
later.  Hazels,  Alders,  and  many  other  favourites  have  been  out 
for  some  time,  and  the  male  Yews  promise  an  abundant  supply  of 
pollen  shortly.  The  Tussilago  is  showing  in  some  places,  and  a 
few  days’  sunshine  would  be  acceptable  to  the  agriculturist  and 
favourable  for  the  bees. 
It  has  been  too  chilly  to  entice  bees  out  to  peasemeal,  neither 
do  I  intend  to  give  it,  as  a  few  favourable  days  will  provide  all  the 
necessary  pollen.  All  hives  short  of  honey  will  be  fed  as  fast  as 
the  bees  will  take  it  with  8  to  10  lbs.  of  the  best  sugar  dissolved 
in  equal  proportions  of  water.  This  prevents  the  waste  of  eggs, 
and  breeding  goes  on  without  interruption.  If  fed  in  small  quan¬ 
tities  it  would  have  to  be  continued  till  the  time  bees  are  getting 
honey  from  the  flowers,  otherwise  many  eggs  and  larvae  would  be 
destroyed.  It  is,  in  my  opinion,  always  safer  and  more  profitable 
when  hives  are  managed  so  that  no  feeding  in  the  spring  is  neces¬ 
sary.  The  entrances  to  all  my  hives  will  remain  contracted  till 
the  bees  are  seen  to  make  an  effort  to  widen  them. 
The  work  for  the  apiary  during  the  next  two  months  will  be 
getting  hives  and  supers  prepared  for  the  busy  time,  and  between 
the  months  of  March  and  May,  the  time  of  the  greatest  drought,  is 
the  best  time  in  all  the  year  to  paint.  Always  prime  with  genuine 
leads  and  ochre  (the  best  French)  and  raw  linseed  oil,  which  should 
be  used  without  dryer*  of  any  sort  ;  indeed,  for  hive*  and  outside 
work  ground  flint  dusted  over  the  newly  painted  surface  will  cause 
it  to  adhere  better  to  the  wood  It  i*  the  first  coating  of  paint 
which  is  the  most  important  towards  preservation,  and  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  use  raw  oil  only  for  the  first  and  second  coats.  This 
applies  to  wood,  iron,  or  stone,  of  which  the  latter  can  be  made 
lasting  by  oil  alone. 
On  the  first  favourable  day  remove  all  accumulated  debris 
from  the  floors,  and  burn  or  bury  it.  Be  on  the  look-out  for 
queenless  hives  or  those  having  effete  queens,  or  the  bees  from 
other  hives  will  find  them  out  and  soon  clear  them  of  their 
contents. — A  Lanarkshire  Bee-keeper. 
DOES  BEE  KEEPING  PAY? 
This  question  is  probably  asked  more  frequently  than  any  other 
in  connection  with  bee-keeping,  and  I  have  no  hesitation  in  replying 
in  the  affirmative.  But  to  be  successful  the  aim  of  all  must  be  to 
obtain  honey  of  the  best  quality,  which  can  only  be  done  by  close 
attention  to  details.  Any  inferior  samples  should  be  fed  back  to 
the  bees.  By  supplying  only  honey  of  the  finest  quality  bee-keepers 
soon  become  known  to  the  wholesale  dealers,  and  will  have  no 
difficulty  in  finding  a  market  for  their  produce,  though  prices  are 
now  low  compared  with  those  obtained  a  few  years  ago. 
Taking  one  season  with  the  other,  and  there  are  often  several 
