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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  5,  1896. 
Lily  of  the  Yalley,  from  which  in  the  season  we  pick  some 
thousands  of  spikes.  This  border  we  are  constantly  renewing 
in  this  way.  In  December  I  obtain  a  number  of  boxes  about  4  feet 
long  and  about  15  inches  wide  (any  size  would  do,  but  this  size 
suits  my  purpose  best).  These  I  take  to  the  side  of  the  bed, 
and  with  a  spade  cut  into  sizes  to  fit  the  boxes  a  sufficient  number 
of  solid  blocks  of  the  Lily  of  the  Yalley  roots,  run  the  spade  under 
each  piece  about  4  inches  beneath  the  surface,  and  transfer  to  the 
boxes  in  a  solid  mass  till  each  box  is  filled,  then  place  in  a  shed  out 
of  the  way  of  frost  till  required  to  be  introduced  to  the  forcing 
house. 
When  introduced  to  heat  each  box  is  surfaced  with  moss, 
damping  the  moss  twice  a  day  to  prevent  the  crowns  drying.  A 
temperature  of  close  on  80°  is  necessary  to  start  the  crowns  before 
the  middle  of  January,  so  that  we  find  it  necessary  to  place  our 
boxes  on  or  near  the  hot  water  pipes  to  start  them  ;  but  after  that 
date  less  heat  will  do,  and  anyone  keeping  up  a  temperature  by 
night  of  about  60°  may  bring  the  Lily  of  the  Yalley  into  flower 
easily.  By  this  means  we  keep  up  a  constant  supply  from  Christmas 
till  they  come  outside.  Before  that  date  I  consider  imported  crowns 
are  best. 
Each  box  of  Lily  as  the  blooms  are  gathered  is  hardened  and 
the  roots  divided  and  planted  out  in  good  soil  ;  these  as  they  are 
required,  are  used  to  fill  up  the  bed  under  the  wall  each  year  after 
filling  the  boxes.  By  this  means  the  bed  is  kept  full,  and  we  manage 
to  have  a  piece  of  about  three  years’  standing  for  the  boxes,  which 
is  just  the  age  for  the  purpose,  as  nearly  every  crown  has  a  flower 
spike,  and  the  crowns  have  become  a  thick  mass  in  the  bed,  every 
square  foot  yielding  from  thirty  to  forty  spikes,  sometimes  more. 
The  foregoing  practice  I  can  recommend  with  every  confidence,  as 
I  have  successfully  practised  it  for  years. — Wm.  Harris,  Upcott, 
Barnstaple. 
Lhllias  and  Ccelogynes  at  Cleveley,  Liverpool. 
Perhaps  one  of  the  most  pleasing  signs  when  visiting  a  place 
from  time  to  time  is  to  be  able  to  denote  progress,  and  I  venture 
to  say  that  anyone  who  has  been  accustomed  to  see  the  splendid 
Ltelias  and  Coelogynes  grown  by  Mr.  Cromwell  must  admit  that 
progress  is  the  right  and  guiding  principle  on  which  he  works, 
and  it  must  be  indeed  gratifying  to  the  owner  of  Cleveley,  T.  Sutton 
Timmis,  Esq  ,  to  find  their  culture  so  thoroughly  understood. 
Although  the  Laelias  have  done  flowering,  the  note  made  at  the 
time  will,  I  trust,  be  read  with  equal  interest  now,  as  for  the  past 
two  months  the  intermediate  house  has  been  most  attractive,  first 
by  the  white  and  coloured  varieties  of  Laslia  anceps,  which 
numbered  189  spikes.  A  magnificent  specimen  of  L.  anceps  var. 
grandiflora  growing  on  a  raft  3  feet  9  inches  by  2  feet  6  inches, 
carrying  fifty-one  spikes,  averaging  three  and  four  flowers  each, 
will  not  readily  be  forgotten. 
There  are  also  many  very  fine  light  and  dark  forms.  L.  anceps 
Stella,  alba,  Sanderiana,  and  Schroderi  are  represented  by  good 
strong  plants,  some  spikes  of  Stella  and  Sanderiana  carrying  four, 
five,  and  six  flowers  on  a  spike.  The  plants  are  such  models  of 
health  that  a  brief  note  as  to  their  culture  may  be  of  benefit.  They 
are  all  grown  on  teak  wood  rafts,  which  are  slung  up  to  the  roof. 
When  commencing  to  grow  water  is  applied  first  from  the 
syringe,  and  as  growth  increases  the  watering  becomes  more 
thorough,  liberal  sprinklings  being  adopted  when  in  full 
growth.  Adequate  ventilation  during  the  summer  months,  with 
abundance  of  light,  completes  the  treatment.  A  passing  word  of 
praise  is  due  to  Mr.  Cromwell  for  the  tasteful  way  he  arranges  the 
plants  when  in  flower.  They  occupied  a  space  10  feet  by  9,  the  raf t3 
being  hidden  by  small  Maidenhair  Ferns,  the  lighter  Palms  such 
as  Coco3  Weddelliana  and  Asparagus  plumosus  being  gracefully  used 
amongst  the  stems  of  flowers. 
No  one  who  has  seen  them  will  hesitate  to  say  that  the 
treatment  accorded  is  the  right  one,  the  580  flowers  being 
grand.  The  space  recently  occupied  by  them  is  now  filled  with  a 
dozen  pans  of  Coelogynes,  24  feet  to  feet  through.  One  plant 
has  over  600  blooms,  while  the  Trenthara  variety  has  400  blooms. 
Some  of  the  strongest  bulbs  have  two  spikes  carrying  seven  flowers 
each,  plainly  showing  the  floriferous  character  of  this  variety. 
Other  pans  3  feet  in  diameter  are  filled  with  such  charming 
varieties  as  Lemoniana,  maxima,  and  Chatsworthi,  the  whole  going 
to  make  up  a  charming  display,  and  one  which  I  feel  sure  must  afford 
much  pleasure  to  Mr.  Timmis  and  the  numerous  visitors  to  Cleveley. 
One  other  Orchid  I  was  almost  omitting — viz.,  the  beautiful 
Cymbidium  eburneum,  carrying  twenty  spikes,  an  excellent  plant, 
and  deliciously  scented. — R.  P.  R. 
Notes  on  Cypripediums. 
The  immense  number  of  species,  varieties,  and  hybrids 
contained  in  this  genus  render  it  one  of  the  most  important  in  the 
whole  family,  and  although  they  are  not  cared  for  by  some  people, 
and  others  only  take  a  lukewarm  interest  in  them,  the  majority  of 
orchidists  keep  in  mind  their  many  good  points,  such  a#  their  free- 
flowering  and  long-lasting  propensities,  the  ease  with  which  they 
adapt  themselves  to  cultural  methods,  and  their  great  varietv. 
These  latter  value  them  at  their  true  worth,  and  can  never  have  too 
many  of  them.  Unlike  some  other  Orchids  there  is  no  trouble  in 
flowering  Cypripediums  ;  only  grow  them  well  they  will  require  no 
resting  season,  no  shifting  about  from  one  house  to  another,  or  any 
makeshift  of  this  description. 
This  fact  renders  them  doubly  useful  to  the  amateur  or  beginuer 
in  Orchids  who  can  procure  cheaply  and  grow  easily  some  of  the 
very  best  in  the  genus  if  he  is  prepared  to  give  them  attention. 
Some  people  like  to  start  with  newly  imported  plants,  and  if  they 
have  convenience  for  establishing  them,  and  do  not  mind  waiting  a 
little  longer  for  the  flowers,  it  is  very  interesting  to  watch  them 
flower  and  note  the  variations  that  exist  among  them,  especially  as 
there  is  always  a  chance  of  a  good  thing  turning  up  from  a  number 
of  plants  that  have  never  been  seen  to  flower.  But  taking  into 
consideration  the  risk  of  losses  and  the  very  cheap  rate  at  which 
established  plants  may  now  be  purchased,  these  latter  are  to  be 
generally  preferred  for  the  class  of  cultivators  referred  to. 
In  giving  hints  on  their  culture  it  must  be  understood  that 
they  refer  to  the  majority  of  the  kinds  most  generally  grown,  as 
it  is  well  known  that  certain  species  have  peculiarities  of  their 
own  that  must  be  studied  and  catered  for.  These  exceptions  are, 
however,  comparatively  few,  and  possibly  no  other  large  genus  of 
Orchids  can  be  so  collectively  treated  of  as  Crypripediums.  They 
like  a  substantial  yet  free  and  open  rooting  medium,  and  a  capital 
compost  for  them  consists  of  equal  parts  of  good  fibry  peat,  yellow 
turfy  loam,  and  chopped  sphagnum.  The  former  materials  should 
have  the  greater  part  of  the  earthy  particles  beaten  out,  and 
the  moss  must  be  clean,  freshly  gathered  if  possible,  and  free 
from  insects.  To  these  ingredients  add  enough  crocks  and  charcoal 
to  well  break  up  the  bulk  ;  but  avoid  sand  in  every  case,  for  this 
material,  though  so  freely  recommended  in  some  quarters  even  yet, 
is  about  the  worst  possible  thing  in  the  compost  for  Orchids. 
There  is  no  better  time  for  repotting  any  Cypripediums  that 
are  not  in  flower  than  the  present,  while  any  now  in  beauty  may 
have  attention  as  soon  as  the  blossoms  fade.  It  is  usual'y  quite 
easy  to  tell  how  the  roots  are  progressing  by  the  appearance  of  the 
plant  before  the  latter  is  turned  out  of  its  pot.  They  should  not  be 
allowed  to  get  too  much  root-bound,  especially  the  younger  and 
more  vigorous  ones,  but  as  soon  as  the  pots  are  well  filled  with 
roots  give  a  shift  into  a  larger  size.  In  such  cases  the  plants  hardly 
feel  the  removal,  as  the  old  compost  is  not  much  disturbed  by 
picking  out  any  sour  or  decayed  portions,  and  cutting  away  what 
few  dead  roots  are  found.  Drain  the  pots  thoroughly  and  spread 
the  roots  out  as  much  as  possible,  working  the  compost  down  well 
about  them  without  bruising  them  or  snapping  off  the  tender 
points.  Press  it  fairly  firm  with  the  dibbler,  but  not  so  close  as  to 
exclude  the  air,  or  to  make  it  difficult  for  the  water  to  pass  away 
quickly,  and  finish  the  surface  so  that  it  rises  very  slightly  to  the 
base  of  the  plants,  but  the  edges  keep  just  below  the  rim  of  the 
pot. 
Plants  that  are  in  a  bad  state  at  the  roots,  either  through  bad 
drainage,  overwatering,  or  a  close  and  heavy  compost,  are  rather 
more  difficult  to  deal  with,  as  it  is  imperative  that  every  portion  of 
the  old  and  decayed  compost  is  taken  from  the  roots.  In  the 
worst  cases  the  latter  must  be  washed  with  tepid  water,  left  to  dry 
on  the  stage,  and  the  dead  roots  cut  clean  out.  If  any  are  left 
alive  these  must  be  carefully  preserved,  as  having  no  pseudo¬ 
bulbs  to  sustain  them  the  plants  are  fully  dependent  upon  these 
chance  bits  until  new  ones  are  emitted.  Use  more  moss  and  crocks 
and  less  peat  and  loam  for  such  plants,  and  give  also  a  thinner 
layer  of  compost. 
These  unhealthy  specimens  require  very  careful  watering  at  the 
roots,  and  just  sufficient  should  be  given  to  prevent  the  compost 
getting  quite  dry  at  any  time  ;  while  on  the  other  hand  it  must 
not  be  kept  really  moist  until  the  new  roots  commence  to  push 
from  the  base  of  the  growths.  Healthy  plants  on  the  contrary 
delight  in  copious  supplies,  even  just  after  repotting,  for  the  new 
compost  admits  air  much  more  freely  than  the  old,  and  in  con¬ 
sequence  dries  up  more  quickly.  It  must  be  kept  moist,  or  the 
new  roots  cannot  get  hold  of  it,  and  if  needful  they  must  be 
