Mdrch  5,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  217 
of  the  pots.  Roots  are  usually  emitted  in  from  ten  dayB  to  a  fortnight,  and 
until  then  water  is  not  necessary.  If  very  bright  weather  prevail  slight 
shading  is  desirable  for  an  hour  or  two  at  midday,  and  a  light  syringing 
through  a  fine  rose  will  he  necessary  about  twice  a  week.  The  tempera- 
ture  should  be  kept  at  55°  to  65°  by  artificial  means,  with  5°  to  10°  or  15° 
rise  from  sun  heat.  Any  young  plants  in  an  unsatisfactory  state  should 
be  shook  out  and  repotted  after  disrooting,  treating  them  as  advised  for 
suckers.  Any  stools  with  small  suckers  should  have  the  latter  left  on 
until  May  or  Jane,  and  then  be  potted.  Old  plants  from  which  the 
fruit  and  leaves  have  been  cut  should  be  placed  closely  together  in  any 
pit  having  a  moderate  top  and  bottom  heat,  where  light  and  air  can  be 
secured  so  as  to  insure  sturdy  suckers. 
Fruiting  Pines. — With  the  fruit  progressing  the  plants  will  require 
water  more  frequently  at  the  roots,  and  should  be  examined  once  a  week 
for  affording  a  supply  when  needed.  Recently  started  fruiting  plants 
must  be  kept  at  65°  by  night  and  70°  by  day,  keeping  the  atmosphere 
for  these  plants  and  fruiters  generally  moist  by  damping  the  paths, 
watering  as  required  with  tepid  liquid  manure. 
rigs. — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — The  first  swelling  of  the 
Figs  on  the  trees  staited  in  November  or  December  will  soon  be  com¬ 
pleted.  They  remain  stationary  for  some  time  for  flowering,  and 
require  careful  treatment.  Therefore  keep  the  temperature  steady,  and 
if  mild  it  may  be  60°  to  65°  at  night,  but  if  cold  5°  lea*  is  safer  ;  65° 
artificially  by  day  suffices  when  cold  and  dull,  70°  to  75°  with  gleams 
of  sun,  and  10°  to  15°  advance  fiom  sun  heat  will  insure  steady  develop¬ 
ment  without  producing  weak  or  elongated  growth.  Although  syringing 
is  necessary  to  keep  down  red  spider  it  must  not  be  excessive,  for  if  wet 
gets  in  at  the  eye  when  open  for  flowering  certain  germs  will  find  a 
nidus  on  the  decay  or  damage  thus  set  up,  and  the  fruit  will  decay  at 
the  apex  instead  of  finally  swelling  and  ripening.  To  encourage  the 
swelling  of  the  fruit  top-dress  with  rich  compost,  renewing  at  short 
intervals.  Supply  tepid  liquid  manure  steadily  to  the  roots,  always 
giving  it  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pass  through  the  pots.  Avoid 
crowding  the  growths,  stopping  at  the  fifth  leat,  tying  out  the  shoots  as 
the  growth  advances  and  cutting  out  superfluous  shoots,  or  preferably 
preventing  this  by  rubbing  them  off  whilst  quite  young.  The  fruit,  to 
have  colour  and  flavour,  must  have  full  exposure  to  light  and  a  circu¬ 
lation  of  rather  dry  air. 
Planted-out  Fig  Trees. — Disbudding  will  need  to  be  practised  on 
trees  started  at  the  new  year,  rubbing  off  all  those  not  required,  pinching 
spurs  at  about  the  fifth  leaf  so  as  to  secure  second  crop  fruit.  Train  the 
successional  shoots  and  leaders  their  full  length,  stopping  only  inducing 
side  shoots,  and  the  finest  fruit  is  borne  on  extensions.  Trees  in  restricted 
borders  will  need  liberal  supplies  of  nourishment,  encouraging  roots 
from  the  collar  by  top-dressings  of  rich  compost,  extending  the  material 
as  the  roots  advance  ;  these  can  be  fed  with  fertilisers  or  liquid  manure. 
Syringe  the  trees  twice  a  day  in  favourable  weather,  damping  only  on 
dull  days. 
Young  Trees  in  Pots. — Shift  those  intended  for  next  year’s  early 
forcing,  potting  firmly.  Shade  slightly  from  bright  sunshine  for  a  few 
days,  until  they  show  signs  of  having  taken  to  the  new  soil,  when  they 
should  be  exposed  to  light.  Pinch  the  growths  so  as  to  insure  a  sturdy, 
well-furnished  head,  training  with  a  single  stem  of  8  to  12  inches. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Broccoli. — A  long  continuation  of  mild  weather  has  been  favourable 
to  the  production  of  good  Broccoli  heads  in  abundance,  and  unless  a 
change  takes  place  soon  there  is  every  probability  of  a  glut  occurring  in 
April.  We  are  far  from  being  safe  from  destructive  frosts  as  yet — we 
might  even  experience  another  severe  blizzard  in  March — and  for  this 
reason  a  close  look  out  should  be  kept,  The  least  that  can  be  done  is  to 
rather  heavily  cover  any  hearts  commencing  to  form  with  old  leaves, 
snapped  off  from  underneath,  while  it  might  prove  a  wise  proceeding  to 
lift  and  replant  a  portion  of  the  crop  of  midseason  and  late  varieties 
where  they  can  be  easily  protected.  Replanting  a  portion  of  the  later 
varieties  on  cool  or  north  borders  would  materially  retard  them. 
Sowing  Broccoli. — It  is  a  mistake  to  sow  midseason  and  late  Broccoli 
early  in  the  spring,  as  in  this  case  the  plants  are,  as  a  rule,  fit  for  planting 
before  the  soil  is  ready  for  their  reception,  and  are  practically  spoilt  in 
the  seed  beds.  Late  in  April  or  early  in  May  is  soon  enough  for  sowing 
in  most  localities.  In  the  case  of  Yeitch’s  Autumn  Protecting  and  other 
late  autumn  varieties  early  sowing  is  desirable,  and  if  the  plants  raised 
are  not  given  a  severe  check  fine  hearts  will  be  had.  Seeds  may  be  sown 
thinly  now  in  either  pans,  boxes,  or  frames,  gentle  rather  than  strong 
heat  answering  best.  Let  the  seedlings  have  the  benefit  of  all  the  light 
and  air  possible  in  mild  weather,  and  when  well  hardened  prick  out  in 
sheltered  border. 
Forcing  Cauliflowers.— This  season  there  is  a  likelihood  of  late 
Broccoli  proving  plentiful,  and  if  some  of  the  latter  is  duly  retarded  the 
supply  should  last  till  the  earliest  Cauliflower  plants  now  in  hand-lights 
forwarded  are  ready  to  cut.  Under  these  circumstances  there  is  less 
need  to  devote  a  rough  frame  or  pit  to  forcing  Cauliflowers,  but  the  small 
forcing  varieties  are  of  superior  quality,  and  find  favour  where  the 
coarser  Broccoli  would  not  be  accepted.  If  it  is  decided  to  forward  some 
in  frames  or  pits  form  a  gentle  hotbed  at  once,  making  this  firm,  and 
covering  with  not  less  than  9  inches  of  good  loamy  compost.  The  plants, 
whether  raised  in  the  autumn  or  early  this  season,  move  best  out  of  small 
pots,  and  should  be  planted  firmly  not  less  than  15  inches  apart  each 
way.  Keep  close  fora  few  days,  afterwards  ventilating  freely  whenever  the 
outer  air  permits.  Hand-lights  are  also  of  good  service  in  forwarding 
Cauliflowers. 
Sowing  Cauliflower  Seed.— If  in  addition  to  the  forcing  varieties 
either  Dwarf  Erfurt  or  Early  London ;  Pearl  or  Magnum  Bonum  ;  Eclipse 
or  Autumn  Giant,  are  sown  and  grown,  a  good  natural  succession  is 
afforded  throughout  the  season,  or  say  from  June  to  September  inclusive. 
All  may  be  either  sown  in  pans  or  boxes,  and  placed  in  gentle  heat  to 
germinate,  taking  care  to  keep  the  plants  as  dwarf  and  sturdy  as  possible. 
Some  may  well  be  placed  singly  in  2^-inch  or  slightly  larger  pots,  and 
these,  if  kept  under  glass  till  well  established,  then  hardened,  and 
planted  either  in  hand-lights  or  on  warm  borders,  where  they  ought  to 
be  roughly  protected  for  a  time,  will  be  the  first  ready  to  cut  from. 
Those  fine  hearts  seen  at  August  shows  are,  as  a  rule,  cut  from  either 
autumn  or  late  winter  raised  plants  of  Yeitch’s  Autumn  Giant ;  but 
Eclipse  sown  now  would  succeed  nearly  as  well. 
Brussels  Sprouts. — In  order  to  have  extra  fine  stalks  of  these  the 
plants  must  have  a  long  period  of  growth.  Some  growers  raise  plants 
in  the  autumn,  leaving  them  in  the  seed  beds  till  April  or  May,  when 
they  are  planted  out.  Private  gardeners,  who  do  not  require  large 
numbers  of  plants,  sow  seeds  in  pans,  boxes,  or  frames,  as  advised  in  the 
case  of  Cauliflowers,  pricking  out  the  plants  on  a  sheltered  border  in 
April.  It  ought  to  be  decided  now  where  the  principal  portion  of  this 
important  crop  shall  be  grown  next  season,  and  the  ground  early 
manured  and  dug,  preparatory  to  planting  with  short-topped  early 
Potatoes.  Arrange  the  row*  of  the  latter  not  less  than  3  feet  apart,  and 
directly  the  Potatoes  are  finally  moulded  up  plant  out  the  Brussels 
Sprouts  midway  between  them.  If  more  seeds  are  sown  in  the  open  any 
time  during  favourable  weather  in  March  abundance  of  plants  should 
be  available  for  putting  out  early  in  the  summer,  but  these  will  scarcely 
succeed  so  well  as  those  raised  earlier.  Where  old  plants  have  been 
cleared  of  their  crop  of  hard  sprouts,  and  are  occupying  ground  wanted 
for  other  purposes,  lift  and  replant  closely  either  at  one  end  of  the  plot 
they  now  occupy  or  a  fresh  site  altogether,  and  they  will  produce 
abundance  of  greens  till  late  in  the  spring. 
Carrots  and  Radishes. — With  the  aid  of  frames,  glazed  or 
otherwise,  and  mild  hotbeds,  it  ought  to  be  a  comparatively  easy  matter 
to  keep  up  a  good  supply  of  tender  young  roots  of  both  Carrots  and 
Radishes.  Only  a  shallow  hotbed  is  needed,  and  if  the  frames  are  deep 
half  fill  with  the  heating  material,  so  as  to  raise  the  6  inches  of  fine 
light  soil  placed  on  the  top  of  it  well  up  to  the  light.  Open  shallow 
drills  8  inches  apart  for  early  Horn  Carrots,  and  midway  between  these 
draw  other  drills  for  Wood’s  Frame,  French  Breakfast,  or  other  early 
Radishes.  Water  the  drills  if  at  all  dry,  sow  the  seed  thinly,  and  cover 
with  fine  soil.  Where  glazed  lights  are  scarce  these  may  be  taken  off, 
and  rough  protection  substituted  directly  the  Carrots  are  in  rough  leaf, 
or  they  may  be  dispensed  with  altogether  and  a  protection  of  mats, 
canvas,  or  old  carpet,  be  used  instead.  The  Radishes  will  be  pulled 
before  the  Carrots  require  all  the  space. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Panlcum  varlegatum. — Transfer  into  5-inch  pots  plants  that  were 
rooted  in  a  small  size  in  September.  If  the  shoots  are  pegged  into  the 
surface  after  potting  they  will  grow  rapidly  and  become  useful  for 
furnishing  the  front  row  of  stoves  and  other  warm  houses.  Plenty  of 
cuttings  may  now  be  inserted  in  3-inch  pots  filled  with  sandy  soil  ;  they 
will  root  quickly  if  shaded  from  the  sun,  kept  close  and  moist  under 
hand-lights  in  a  warm  house.  Those  intended  for  baskets  may  be 
inserted  in  pans,  and  then  transplanted  into  the  baskets  as  soon  as  they 
are  rooted  and  have  been  hardened  so  as  to  bear  exposure  in  a  warm 
house. 
Selaglnella  csesla. — This  is  a  capital  plant  for  edging  when  asso¬ 
ciated  with  Panicum  variegatum.  It  is  necessary,  however,  to  place  this 
plant  into  slightly  larger  pots  than  the  Panicum  or  it  will  fail  to  show 
an  even  surface.  Plants  that  have  been  kept  cool  may  be  divided  and 
potted  ;  they  grow  freely  in  any  moderately  light  compost,  for  instance 
equal  parts  of  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand.  They  will  s*art  freely 
in  a  vinery,  or  may  be  placed  into  a  warmer  structure  until  they  are 
ready  for  the  stove,  or  where  they  are  to  be  employed  when  in  good 
condition. 
Caladlum  argyritea. — These  may  be  shaken  out  and  started  in 
small  pots  in  a  warm  house.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  plunge  the  pots,  to 
prevent  watering,  and  cover  the  surface  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  until 
growth  commences.  Other  varieties  may  also  be  started.  It  may  be 
pointed  out  that  these  beautiful  foliage  plants,  after  they  are  once 
started,  are  frequently  grown  too  close  and  warm.  They  scarcely 
bear  moving  about  when  grown  in  warm  stove.  The  conditions  of  a 
vinery,  when  the  roof  is  not  overshaded  with  foliage  and  the  night 
temperature  can  be  kept  from  falling  below  60°  suits  them  well.  For 
conservatory  decoration  we  have  found  them  invaluable  from  the  end 
of  June  or  early  part  of  July.  Pot  the  tubers  in  a  compost  of  light  soil, 
and  finally  place  them  in  good  loam,  one-seventh  of  decayed  manure  and 
sand  ;  a  little  leaf  mould  will  do  no  harm. 
Achlmenes. — Shake  these  out  of  the  old  soil  if  not  already  done, 
and  place  the  tubers  thickly  together  in  pans  in  a  compost  of  loam  and 
leaf  mould  in  nearly  equal  proportions  ;  add  one-seventh  of  decayed 
manure  and  a  liberal  quantity  of  sand.  Place  the  pans  in  heat,  and 
cover  with  fibre  the  same  as  advised  for  Caladiums. 
Gloxinias. — Sow  seed  where  an  increase  in  the  stock  is  needed. 
The  surface  of  the  pot  or  pan  Bhould  be  even  and  the  soil  fine,  on  which 
the  seed  can  be  sown,  and  then  gently  water  with  a  fine  rose  can  and 
covered  with  a  square  of  glass  and  shaded.  Shake  out  the  tubers  of 
those  that  have  rested  and  start  them  in  boxes  of  leaf  mould.  Those 
started  some  time  ago  will  be  ready  for  potting.  Good  loam,  one-seventh 
of  manure  and  saud  will  grow  these  plants  well.  Plants  may  rest  that 
