246 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  March  is,  im. 
The  Vines  not  forced  before  or  started  later  will  be  stoning,  this 
taking  place  after  the  first  swelling  following  thinning,  and  is  perhaps 
the  most  important  as  regards  ultimate  size  in  the  berries.  During 
the  stoning  a  steady  state  of  affairs  is  best,  giving  phosphates,  potash 
and  moderate  nitrogen  or  ammonia,  either  in  liquid  form  or  as  top- 
dressings  ;  these  encouraging  surface  roots  more  than  liquid  applications. 
Ventilation  needs  to  be  carefully  attended  to,  as  “  rust  ”  comes  on  Grapes 
and  leaves  by  sudden  depressions  of  temperature  and  cold  drying 
currents  of  air.  When  sharp  north-east  winds  and  bright  gleams  of  sun 
prevail,  the  temperature  is  subject  to  sudden  alternations,  which  must  be 
avoided  by  admitting  air  in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  always  previous 
to  rather  than  after  a  great  rise  of  temperature,  taking  care  to  allow  a 
good  advance  from  sun  heat  after  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  at  80° 
to  85°,  thus  with  90°  a  long  day’s  work  will  be  secured,  allowing  the  heat 
to  fall  to  65°  at  night,  or  even  60°  when  cold. 
Vines  started  at  the  new  year  are  not  good  in  all  places,  and  those 
not  forced  as  early  before  are  the  worst.  Savants  make-believe  that  rest 
is  not  needed  by  vegetation,  bnt  practice  proves  that  Nature  prepares 
for  work  according  to  conditions  of  environment,  and  that  there  is 
nothing  like  a  long  rest  or  a  hard  winter  to  make  sure  of  a  bounteous 
crop  or  harvest.  It  is  no  use  travelling  into  the  tropics,  but  let  us  act  as 
if  in  England,  and  then  all  goes  well.  Some  Vines  have  bunches  that 
twist,  twirl,  and  grow  in  anything  but  the  right  direction,  while  some 
are  “  blind.”  This  is  a  consequence,  and  that  may  be  for  want  of 
more  time,  anyway  similar  Vines  started,  or  rather  starting  of  their  own 
accord,  in  March  or  April  do  nothing  of  the  kind.  Nothing  can  be  done 
now,  as  a  bunch  bent  on  becoming  a  tendril  will  do  so  in  spite  of  all 
restraints ;  but  all  might  have  been  avoided  if  the  wood  had  been 
ripened  earlier,  or  even  had  the  Vines  been  given  more  time.  Avoid  the 
close  stopping  system  in  such  cases,  yet  do  not  allow  more  growths  than 
can  have  room  for  development.  The  Vines  are  now  in  flower,  and 
should  have  a  rather  drier  atmosphere,  with  a  gentle  circulation  of  air, 
and  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially, 
and  80°  to  85°  from  sun  heat,  maintaining  moderate  moisture  by 
damping  the  house  two  or  three  times  a  day  in  bright  weather.  Muscats 
should  have  at  least  5°  higher  temperature,  and  the  flowers  must  be 
carefully  fertilised . 
Succession  Houses.  —  Disbud  and  tie  down  the  growths  as  they 
advance,  stopping  to  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches  where  the  space  is 
limited  ;  but  where  there  is  room  allow  a  greater  extension  of  the  shoots 
before  stopping.  Remove  the  laterals  from  the  joints  below  the  show 
for  fruit,  except  from  the  two  basal  leaves,  stopping  these  at  the  first 
leaf,  and  to  one  afterwards,  as  produced.  The  laterals  above  the  fruit 
may  be  allowed  to  make  such  growth  as  can  have  exposure  to  light 
without  crowding,  and  then  be  stopped,  keeping  them  pinched  after¬ 
wards,  as  space  permits,  or  to  one  joint  where  there  is  not  room  for 
extension.  Remove  all  superfluous  and  ill-shaped  bunches  of  the  free- 
setting  varieties  as  soon  as  the  most  promising  for  the  crop  can  be 
selected.  Maintain  the  border  in  a  proper  state  of  moisture,  and  secure 
a  genial  atmosphere  by  damping  the  house  well  at  closing  time  as  well 
as  in  the  morning  and  evening.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night  is 
suitable  after  the  Vines  come  into  leaf,  allowing  65°  to  70°  in  dull  days, 
and  75°  to  85°  with  sun  and  ventilation,  taking  care  to  avoid  cold 
draughts,  and  to  close  early. 
Late  Houses. — Vines  intended  to  ripen  the  fruit  in  August  must  now 
be  started,  and  Muscats,  with  other  late  varieties,  should  be  encouraged 
to  move,  as  the  fruit  keeps  much  better  when  ripened  in  late  August  or 
early  in  September  than  when  the  season  is  more  advanced  at  the 
ripening  period.  Inside  borders  need  water  to  bring  them  into  a 
properly  moist  condition,  but  avoid  making  the  soil  very  wet.  The 
atmosphere  must  be  kept  genial,  damping  the  rods  and  floors,  two  or 
three  times  a  day,  maintaining  a  temperature  of  60°  at  night,  or  55°  when 
mild,  and  65°  by  day  with  sun.  Late  Hamburghs  may  be  kept  cool,  not 
starting  the  Vines  until  April — indeed,  they  may  start  naturally.  It 
will  suffice  if  they  have  the  fruit  set  by  early  June,  and  the  Grapes  are 
ripe  in  September, 
Vine  Eyes. — Those  inserted  last  month  will  now  be  well  rooted,  and 
should  be  potted  singly.  Insert  in  small  pots,  shifted  into  5  or 
6-inch  as  soon  as  the  roots  reach  the  sides  of  the  smaller,  placing  them 
in  bottom  heat,  or  preferably  on  shelves  over  the  hot- water  pipes. 
Syringe  moderately  amongst  them,  pinching  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf, 
and  if  intended  for  planting  out  this  season  do  so  before  the  roots 
become  matted. 
Cut ‘back  Vines. — For  fruiting  in  pots  next  season  these  Vines  will 
now  be  fit  for  shaking  out  and  repotting,  or  if  that  has  already  been 
done,  and  the  roots  have  reached  the  sides  of  the  pots,  they  will  need 
shiiting  into  the  fruiting  (12-inch)  pots.  After  potting  place  along 
the  aides  of  the  house  over  the  hot-water  pipes  in  preference  to  a  cool 
bottom,  keeping  the  house  close  and  moderately  moist  until  they  become 
established.  Train  the  canes  near  the  glass,  pinching  the  laterals  to 
one  leaf,  and  thus  secure  solidified  growth  and  plump  buds.  Use  clean 
pots  and  thorough  drainage.  Turfy  loam,  with  a  fifth  of  old  mortar 
rubbish,  answers  well  for  potting ;  but  a  pint  of  dissolved  raw  bones  (quite 
mellow),  the  same  amount  of  soot,  and  a  quart  of  wood  ashes  to  2  bushels  of 
the  loam  make  a  lot  of  difference,  failing  which  use  advertised  fertilisers 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Fotheringham  &  King,  Dumfries. — Agricultural  Seeds. 
Dicksons,  Ltd.,  Chester. — Select  Farm  Seeds. 
Hogg  &  Robertson,  22,  Mary  Street,  Dublin. — Farm  Seeds, 
Toogood  &  Sons,  Southampton. — Seeds  for  the  Farm, 
«$T) — ~  Tr-- — 
U.  -|  1  ■  |T|-  l  .  !  ■  l  .  i  -  ,  -  l  -  i  -  1  -  1-1  -.!•  1  TV-jj 
dji 
£\\  g  m* 
SHE  BEE-KEEPER.  4 
MAKING  COMB  FOUNDATION. 
( Concluded  from  page  218.) 
Dipping  should  commence  when  the  wax  is  beginning  to  freeze 
round  the  edges.  After  the  dippers  have  been  plunged  sufficiently 
in  i  the  wax  place  them  in  a  tank  of  cold  water,  which  must  be 
close  at  hand.  A  lamp  may  be  employed  to  keep  the  wax  liquid. 
It  is  different  when  milling,  a  high  uniform  temperature  being 
necessary.  When  the  mill  is  oiled,  and  in  proper  gear,  soapsuds  or 
starch  should  be  in  readinegs  to  keep  the  rolls  lubricated,  a  brush 
being  held  against  the  rollers  to  remove  the  oxide.  The  tempera¬ 
ture  of  the  house  and  the  rollers  should  not  be  under  60°. 
When  once  the  mill  is  in  readiness  have  a  tank  with  warm  water 
— a  little  experience  will  teach  the  proper  heat — and  place  therein 
a  number  of  sheets.  Lift  one  from  the  water,  lay  it  on  the  plat¬ 
form  in  front  of  the  machine,  cut  from  one  end  a  narrow  strip  less 
than  an  inch  broad,  and  lay  it  on  the  top  of  the  sheet.  Enter  the 
latter  between  the  rolls,  turn  the  handle  till  the  sheet  appears 
about  an  inch  through,  then  lift  the  strip,  place  it  on  the  top  of  the 
milled  end,  back  the  machine  till  the  two  are  knitted  together, 
reverse,  and  either  let  an  assistant  in  front  catch  hold  of  the 
narrow  strip  with  a  pair  of  wooden  grips  and  lead  it  from  the  rolls, 
or  let  it  come  over  the  top  one,  keeping  hold  of  the  handle  with 
one  hand,  and  the  grip  with  the  sheet  in  it  in  the  other,  stretching 
the  arm  to  take  it  away  till  it  is  clear  of  the  rolls. 
It  is  imperative  the  rollers  be  kept  warm,  as  when  the  tempera¬ 
ture  is  70°  or  more  the  worker  may  leave  off  and  begin  at  any  time, 
but  if  the  temperature  is  below  50°  the  rolls  require  to  be  heated 
every  time  when  resuming  work.  Always  dip  the  sheets  lengthways. 
From  the  foregoing  I  think  any  amateur  will  be  able  with  a 
little  practice  to  make  his  own  foundation.  Keep  in  mind  the 
effect  different  temperatures  has  on  wax,  and  do  not  clog  up  the 
rolls  or  allow  wax  to  adhere  to  the  dippers,  and  I  doubt  not  all 
who  try  it  will  be  successful.  They  will  know  the  wax  is  genuine, 
and  will  find  it  cheaper  than  having  to  purchase.  The  above  plan 
may  be  modified  greatly,  but  is  one  that  has  given  great  satisfaction 
for  thirty-four  years  to — A  Lanarkshire  Bee-keeper. 
%*  All  correspondence  should  be  directed  either  to  “  The 
Editor  ”  or  to  “  The  Publisher.”  Letters  addressed  to 
Dr.  Hogg  or  members  of  the  staff  often  remain  unopened 
unavoidably.  We  request  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense. 
Books  (T.  B .). — A  letter  that  was  posted  to  you  has  been  returned 
to  us  by  the  postal  authorities.  Please  write  again. 
Pompon  Dahlias  for  Cutting:  (7',  H.  C.). — Eight  of  the  best 
Pompon  Dahlias  in  the  colours  you  want  are — White. — Lady  Blanche 
and  White  Aster.  Yellow  — Golden  Gem  and  Iolanthe.  Crimson. — 
Darkness  and  Mars.  Scarlet. — Nelly  Lee  and  Triumph. 
Fancy  Dahlias  for  Carden  Decoration  (Bristol'). — A  selection 
of  six  may  consist  of  the  following  varieties  : — Mrs.  Saunders,  yellow 
and  white  ;  Mrs.  John  Downie,  orange  and  scarlet;  Matthew  Campbell, 
buff  and  crimson  ;  Peacock,  maroon  and  white  ;  Henjy  Eckford,  yellow 
and  red  ;  and  Mrs.  N.  Halls,  scarlet  and  white. 
Vine  Shoots  (E.  B.  H.). — There  is  no  occasion  to  alarm  yourself 
about  the  Vines  through  having  Tea  Roses  in  the  house  infested  with 
mildew.  There  is  no  trace  of  mildew  on  the  Vine  growths,  nor  of 
there  having  been  any.  The  bisulphide  of  calcium  recommended  in 
Mr.  E.  Molyneux’s  book  on  Chrysanthemums  is  one  of  the  best  and 
oldest  preventives  and  remedies  for  the  white  mildews  (Oidiums)  or 
epiphytic  parasitical  fungi,  but  it  must  not  be  used  on  Vines  after  the 
Grapes  form,  or  if  it  is,  must  be  washed  off  within  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
or  they  will  assuredly  rust. 
Pelargonium  Leaves  Blistered  (Menton  Place). — The  miserable 
specimens  have  been  affected  by  the  Geranium  mite  (Tarsonymus 
gerani).  It  lives  in  the  leaves  just  beneath  the  cuticle,  giving  rise  to 
small  dots  or  blotches,  and  preventing  growth.  The  best  thing  to  do  is 
to  fumigate  with  tobacco  or  syringe  with  a  safe  solution  of  tobacco  juice, 
which  contains  some  sulphur,  or  an  infusion  of  tobacco  powder.  This 
will  not  kill  the  pests  in  the  leaves,  but  it  does  those  prowling  about, 
and  makes  the  whole  plant  so  distasteful  that  they  leave  it  alone,  so  also 
do  green  fly  and  thrips.  The  plants  then  “  grow  out  of  the  disease.” 
