March  19,  189G. 
JOURNAL  OR  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
251 
reason  for  this  is  not  difficult  to  explain.  I  take  it  to  be  thus  : 
Primula  seeds  are  usually  sown  upon  the  surface  of  the  soil,  or 
with  only  a  very  slight  covering  ;  the  top  growth  quickly  becomes 
rather  bulky  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  seed,  or  its  rooting 
capacity  in  the  early  stages.  To  put  matters  right  in  this  respect 
therefore  transplanting  is  necessary,  so  that  by  burying  a  small 
portion  of  the  stem  the  young  plant  is  held  firmly  in  position. 
Tomatoes,  again,  are  such  rapid  growers  that  all  cultivators 
know  how  important  it  is  to  transplant  and  repot  just  in  the  nick 
of  time,  before  growth  becomes  elongated.  I  might  go  on  describ¬ 
ing  in  detail  the  particular  management  required  by  the  innumer¬ 
able  varieties  of  seedling  plants,  but  this  would  become  tedious, 
and  is  not  necessary,  because  having  given  examples  of  the  treat¬ 
ment  necessary  for  the  several  types  of  seedlings,  it  remains  for 
the  operator  to  bring  his  powers  of  observation  to  bear  upon  the 
matter,  and  vary  the  details  as  reason  shall  direct. 
In  regard  to  the  distances  apart  at  which  seedlings  should  be 
set,  no  hard-and-fast  rule  can  be  observed  ;  an  inch  apart  is  a 
suitable  distance  for  small  plants  which  are  intended  to  be  trans¬ 
planted  as  soon  as  necessary,  whereas  such  quick-growing  seedlings 
as  Tomatoes  require  to  be  given  fully  twice  that  distance.  In  the 
case  of  Lobelias,  Ageratums,  and  a  host  of  other  plants  grown  for 
bedding  purposes,  much  valuable  space  is  utilised  to  the  best 
advantage  by  pricking  out  somewhat  thickly  at  first,  and  in  the 
course  of  a  few  weeks  transplanting  again  into  other  boxes  or 
frames,  which,  with  the  increase  of  warm  weather,  become  suitable 
for  the  purpose.  In  preparing  pans  or  boxes  to  receive  these  young 
plants  ample  drainage  must  be  given  ;  a  thin  layer  of  soil  suffices — 
1  inch  or  1J  inch  i3  enough — and  there  is  then  but  little  danger  of 
it  becoming  sour. 
The  lower  half  of  this  should  be  passed  through  the  4-inch 
sieve,  and  the  upper  part  through  the  ^-inch  one,  the  surface  being 
pressed  smooth  and  moderately  firm  with  a  board.  A  little  sand 
sprinkled  on  the  surface  is  often  an  advantage  when  very  small 
seedlings  are  being  dealt  with,  and  in  all  instances  I  like  to  water 
the  soil  through  a  fine  rose  half  an  hour  before  pricking  out  com¬ 
mences  ;  the  progress  of  the  work  is  then  greatly  facilitated,  and 
the  young  plants  only  require  sprinkling  with  a  very  fine  rose  for 
a  few  days  ;  then  by  the  time  a  good  watering  is  necessary  all  danger 
of  disturbing  their  position  is  over.  Of  course  the  seedlings  must 
be  shaded  to  prevent  the  leaves  flagging. — Plantsman. 
well.  The  flower#  are  very  distinct  and  handsome,  of  a  thick, 
fleshy  texture,  some  of  them  fragrant,  and  they  usually  last  from 
two  to  three  weeks  in  good  order.  The  majority  of  the  species  like 
plenty  of  heat  while  making  their  growth,  and  although  natives  of 
Central  America,  apparently  like  rather  different  treatment  from 
the  majority  of  Orchids  from  this  locality.  We  usually  repot  the 
plants  about  this  time  of  year,  or  just  as  the  new  growths  are 
pushing,  and  are  careful  to  allow  pot  room  enough,  as  the  roots  are 
vigorous  and  run  freely  in  a  good  compost.  The  plants  are  apt  to 
get  away  from  their  pots  if  left  too  long,  so  it  is  be«t  to  repot 
about  once  in  two  years. 
Mix  about  equal  parts  of  the  best  peat  fibre  obtainable  and 
freshly  gathered  sphagnum  moss,  adding  a  little  fibry  loam  and 
abundance  of  finely  broken  crocks.  Drain  the  pots  at  least  half  their 
depth  and  cover  the  crocks  with  a  layer  of  rough  moss.  In  turning 
the  plants  out  of  the  old  pots  be  careful  not  to  damage  the  roots, 
and  if  the  latter  are  clinging  tightly  to  the  inner  surface  of  the 
pot  break  it  in  preference  to  the  roots,  and  let  the  pieces  be  placed 
Epidendrum  elegantulum. 
Though  the  genus  comprising  Epidendrums  is  a  very  extensive 
one,  additions  to  it  of  real  merit  are  sure  to  be  received  with 
pleasure.  Some  of  the  varieties  and  species  are  remarkable  for  the 
beauty  of  their  flowers,  while  others,  in  which  these  are  inferior, 
are  highly  appreciated  by  reason  of  their  fragrance.  Such  being 
the  case,  it  may  be  expected  that  a  hybrid  possessed  of  both  these 
desirable  attribute#  will  be  received  with  great  favour.  Such  an 
Epidendrum  is  elegantulum,  which  has  been  obtained  by  Messrs. 
J.  Yeitch  &  Sons,  Royal  Exotic  Nursery,  Chelsea,  from  a  cross 
between  E.  Endresio-Wallisi  and  E.  Wallisi,  and  for  which  this 
firm  received  a  first-class  certificate  at  the  meeting  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  held  at  the  Drill  Hall  on  the  10th  inst. 
Commendable,  too,  is  the  habit  of  this  plant,  which  is  stout  and 
sturdy.  In  colour  the  sepals  are  green  with  brown  markings,  while 
the  large,  spreading  lip  is  white  with  occasional  rosy  purple  blotches. 
The  woodcut  (fig.  46)  represents  the  form  of  flowering  of  this 
hybrid. 
Culture  of  Calanthes. 
With  the  practical  instructions  given  by  “L.”  (page  203), 
anent  the  cultivation  of  this  useful  Orchid,  I  cordially  agree  with 
but  one  exception — viz.,  that  of  placing  the  pseudo-bulbs  in  boxes 
to  enable  them  to  make  roots  an  inch  or  so  long  before  they  are 
potted.  It  would  no  doubt  be  interesting  to  others  as  it  would  to 
myself  if  “L.”  would  state  his  reason  for  so  doing,  and  what 
benefit  accrues  to  the  plants  themselves  by  the  adoption  of  this 
treatment  in  preference  to  potting  them  direct.  Personally  I  grow 
this  Orchid  fairly  well,  but  with  the  explanation  asked  for  I  might 
be  enabled  to  do  still  better. — E.  M. 
Chysis. 
This  is  not  a  large  genu#,  but  the  members  of  it  are  extremely 
useful  Orchids,  well  repaying  the  little  care  needed  to  grow  them 
FIG.  46.— EPIDENDRUM  ELEGANTULUM. 
in  the  new  pot  with  them.  Spread  the  roots  out  laterally,  and 
place  the  plant  so  that  the  base  of  the  last  formed  pseudo-bulbs 
rests  on  the  surface  of  the  compost  when  finished,  as  it  should  be, 
with  a  gentle  rise  from  the  rim  of  the  pot.  Fill  up  with  the 
compost  named,  firming  it  with  the  dibber,  and  neatly  trim  off  all 
ragged  ends  of  peat  and  moss. 
When  the  potting  is  finished  take  the  plants  to  the  warm  house 
and  contrive  to  keep  the  compost  in  an  equable  state  as  regards 
moisture  by  damping  the  surface  with  water  from  the  syringe,  and 
frequently  »yringing  between  the  pots.  As  soon  as  the  young 
growths  emit  roots  the  supply  may  be  increased,  and  when  running 
freely  in  the  compost  a  full  supply  will  be  needed,  as  they  are  rather 
thirsty  subjects.  The  flower  spikes  will  issue  along  with  the  young 
growths,  and  although  they  may  without  injury  be  placed  in  a  drier 
atmosphere  for  a  few  days  while  in  flower,  it  is  not  wise  to  stand 
the  plants  in  cold  or  draughty  rooms,  otherwise  the  growth  will  be 
severely  checked. 
All  the  species  like  a  good  light,  especially  towards  the  latter 
end  of  the  season,  and  for  this  reason  they  may  be  suspended  from 
the  roof  if  convenient.  On  the  other  hand,  they  must  not  be 
exposed  to  the  sun’s  rays  direct,  a#  the  foliage  is  rather  thin  in 
texture  and  easily  damaged.  The  water  supply  must  be  continued 
right  up  to  the  time  the  growths  have  finished  ;  it  is  a  great  mistake 
to  dry  these  deciduous  Orchids  off  quickly.  As  the  foliage  falls  less 
water  will  of  course  be  needed,  and  in  winter  only  enough  is  required 
