266 
JOURNAL  OP  EORTWULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  19,  1896. 
iw  Til/ 
WOKK.F0ItTHE'WEEK..  £3' 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. —  Where 
Peaches,  such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  and  Early 
Louise,  with  Advance  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarines,  have  been  started  in 
December,  and  brought  on  under  safe  conditions  in  respect  of  tempera¬ 
ture,  they  will  now  have  completed  stoning,  and  after  this  there  is 
little  danger  of  the  fruit  dropping,  provided  the  trees  are  properly 
supplied  with  water  and  nourishment  at  the  roots,  the  foliage  kept  clean 
by  syringing,  and  proper  moisture  maintained  in  the  atmosphere.  If 
there  be  any  deficiency  in  these  respects,  and  the  ventilation  be  such  as 
to  cause  checks,  the  fruit  may  ripen  prematurely  ;  that  is,  not  complete 
the  final  swelling  properly,  turning  soft  and  dropping,  the  quality  being 
very  inferior,  as  also  is  the  appearance  of  the  fruit.  When  the  fruit  is 
placed  at  a  disadvantage  for  receiving  light,  bring  it  round  so  that  the 
light  will  fall  on  the  apex,  supporting  it  by  laths  placed  across  the  wires 
of  the  trellis,  or  otherwise  draw  aside  or  remove  overshadowing  leaves 
Keep  laterals  closely  pinched,  and  stop  overgrowing  shoots.  A  tempe¬ 
rature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  10°  to  15°  rise 
from  sun  heat,  will  be  necessary  to  have  the  fruit  ripe  at  the  close  of 
next  month,  or  early  in  May. 
Second  Early  House. — While  some  growers  complain  of  bud  and 
flower  dropping,  others  have  grand  sets  of  fruit.  Early  Louise  in  one 
garden  has  set  twenty  times  as  many  fruits  as  the  trees  could  mature,  and 
in  adjoining  one  the  trees  have  not  a  twentieth  of  a  crop.  Both  are  on 
the  same  formation — calcareous  loam  over  chalk — but  the  first  gets  bone 
superphosphate,  and  the  latter  not  any  form  of  sulphate  or  phosphate  but 
that  yielded  by  the  soil.  Disbud  gradually  and  carefully,  removing  the 
strongest  and  ill-placed  shoots,  and  heel  in  the  leading  and  successional 
growths,  taking  care  not  to  overcrowd  them.  Thin  the  fruit,  not  being 
in  too  great  a  hurry,  but  taking  advantage  of  the  first  swelling  so  a?  to 
get  a  good  size  in  the  fruit  retained  for  the  crop.  Syringe  the  trees  early 
on  fine  days,  and  ventilate  early  in  favourable  weather.  The  temperature 
may  range  from  55°  to  60°  at  night  and  60°  to  65°  by  dav,  ventilating 
at  the  latter  temperature,  and  allowing  an  advance  of  5°  to  10°  from 
sun  heat,  closing  the  house  when  the  heat  is  decreasing.  Avoid  cold 
draughts  of  air,  yet  admit  it  freely  in  favourable  weather,  so  as  to 
insure  sturdy  growth,  well-developed  foliage,  and  thoroughly  solidified 
wood. 
Houses  Started  Early  in  February. — The  trees  are  a  “  sight ;  ”  in 
some  case  “  pictures  of  beauty,”  in  others  the  floor  is  strewn  with 
dropped  blossoms,  and  there  is  a  strange  reflection  on  the  face  of  the 
cultivator.  The  flowers  in  one  case  are  perfect,  in  the  other  the 
pistillate  organs  are  defective,  but  the  staminate  are  laden  with  pollen. 
This  is  the  effect  of  some  cause,  and  in  most  cases  traceable  to  a 
deficiency  of  sulphur  and  pho«phorus,  that  means  lack  of  sulphate  and 
phosphate  in  the  soil.  Where  there  is  much  blossom  all  that  on  the 
under  side  or  at  back  of  the  shoots  may  be  removed.  Fertilise  the 
flowers  when  the  pollen  is  ripe,  leaving  nothing  to  chance.  Ventilate 
freely  above  55°,  and  allow  an  advance  to  65°  with  sun  heat.  Maintain 
the  night  temperature  at  50°  to  55°,  and  the  latter  by  day  in  dull  weather 
with  a  little  ventilation  constantly,  as  a  close  stagnant  atmosphere  causes 
moisture  to  be  deposited  on  the  organs  of  fructification,  impairing  their 
power  of  setting  the  fruit,  Secure  a  genial  atmosphere  by  sprinkling 
the  floors  occasionally,  and  avoid  cold  currents,  but  ventilate  early  and 
judiciously. 
Houses  to  Afford  Fruit  in  Late  July  and  August.  —Midseason 
varieties  are  seen  at  their  best  in  the  structures  started  in  March.  The 
trees  are  coming  into  blossom,  often  carrying  too  many  flowers  by  half, 
in  which  case  remove  those  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots.  In  other 
instances  there  is  a  strange  scarcity  of  blossom,  all  the  buds  having 
dropped  or  nearly  so,  and  this  where  the  trees  are  grown  on  the  natural 
system  as  well  as  on  the  orthodox  trellis  plan.  Lifting  is  the  best  cure 
for  this,  but  it  only  lasts  a  time,  hence  some  cultivators  lift  the  trees 
periodically,  others  without  such  expedients  have  plenty  of  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  every  year.  It  is  simply  a  question  of  soil  ingredients  and 
not  one  of  cultivators.  Give  such  trees  phosphate  and  sulphate  of  lime 
with  a  little  iron  thrown  in,  and  avoid  nitrogen  as  the  pestilence  till  the 
stoning  is  over,  as  a  special  application.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  50° 
by  day,  40°  to  45°  at  night,  advancing  to  65°  with  sun  and  full 
ventilation. 
Late  Houses  — The  buds  are  swelling  fast,  and  in  some  cases  coming 
into  flower.  When  the  blossoms  show  colour  a  little  heat  by  day  is  a 
great  advantage  in  dull  weather,  as  it  allows  of  a  circulation  of  air,  but 
it  ought  not  to  be  used  so  as  to  maintain  a  higher  temperature  from  that 
source  than  50°.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly,  but  in  some  cases  the 
lights  fit  so  badly  and  the  laps  of  glass  are  so  open  as  not  to  need  any 
further  ventilation. 
Tlg».— Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots.— Early  Violet,  St.  John’s, 
Pingo  de  Mel,  and  White  Ischia  have  the  first  crop  advanced  for  ripen¬ 
ing,  when  the  fruit  is  simply  ruined  by  keeping  it  wet,  or  even  allowing 
the  atmosphere  to  become  so  moist  and  close  as  to  cause  moisture  to  be 
deposited  on  it.  This  getB  in  at  the  eye  of  the  fruit,  which  decays 
there  instead  of  ripening.  Where  due  supplies  of  nourishment  are  given 
at  the  root  in  liquid  or  solid  form,  and  the  atmosphere  kept  genial  by 
sprinkling  the  paths  and  other  surfaces  as  they  become  dry,  there  will 
be  little  red  spider,  and  fruit  of  high  quality  will  ripen.  A  temperature 
of  65°  at  night  in  mild  weather,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  ranging  from  75°  to 
85°  with  sun,  and  closing  early  to  secure  90°,  will  swell  Figs  off  to 
perfection,  provided  the  trees  have  all  the  light  possible.  Stop  the 
growths  at  the  fourth  or  fifth  leaf,  training  the  terminals  forward  when 
they  are  stubby,  otherwise  pinch 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — Syringe  the  tree?  once  or  twice 
a  day,  according  to  the  weather,  and  otherwise  maintain  a  genial 
atmosphere.  With  the  roots  confined  to  narrow  borders  supply  lumpy 
material  as  a  mulch,  and  getting  roots  therein  feed  with  top-dressings 
of  phosphatic  and  potassic  manure,  which  will  get  washed  in  fast 
enough,  as  such  trees  require  abundant  supplies  of  water.  Stop  side 
shoots  at  the  fifth  leaf,  as  these  spur  growths  give  good  results  in  the 
second  crop.  Figs  like  a  good  range  of  temperature,  high  by  day  and 
comparatively  low  at  night,  55°  being  suitable  in  cold  weather,  and  60° 
to  65°  in  mild,  ventilating  from  70°,  keeping  through  the  day  between 
75°  and  85°  from  sun  heat,  attending  to  air-giving  early,  and  closing  in 
time  to  husband  the  sun’s  warmth. 
Late  Houses. — Splendid  Figs  are  produced  in  houses  with  a  south 
aspect  even  without  fire  heat.  For  general  purposes  Brown  Turkey  is 
unrivalled,  and  gives  good  returns  in  the  one  crop  such  trees  produce. 
Brunswick  and  Negro  Largo  are  grand  Figs,  also  White  Marseilles,  but 
they  need  the  roots  cramped  and  the  growths  trained  down  instead  of  up 
the  roof,  so  that  the  sun  shines  right  into  the  points  of  the  shoots, 
hardening  them  and  causing  an  abundance  of  fruit.  The  principal 
points  in  the  culture  of  Figs  in  late  houses  is  to  keep  the  growths  thin, 
neatly  tied  to  the  trellis  in  summer,  allowing  the  shoots  to  erow  to  the 
light  towards  autumn  for  ripening,  and  when  growing  afford  liberal 
treatment,  ventilating  early,  and  closing  in  good  time. 
RXelons. — The  forwardest  plants  are  coming  into  flower,  showing 
fruit  on  the  first  laterals.  To  insure  these  setting  it  is  advisable  to  keep 
the  bottom  heat  at  80°  to  85°,  with  just  sufficient  moisture  in  the  soil 
to  prevent  flagging.  A  rather  dry  atmosphere  favours  the  production 
of  pollen,  affording  a  little  ventilation  to  prevent  the  deposition  of 
moisture  on  the  flowers.  Fertilise  the  blossoms  every  day  when  fully 
expanded,  and  stop  the  growths  one  joint  beyond  the  fruits.  When 
these  commence  swelling  remove  all  flowers,  earthing  the  roots  by 
placing  warm  soil  against  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks,  pressing  it 
firmly.  Apply  water  as  required,  avoiding  a  sodden  condition  of  the 
soil  ;  sprinkle  the  floor  in  the  morning  and  evening,  lightly  syringing  at 
closing  time,  when  the  days  are  bright.  During  the  swelling  period 
Melons  require  a  temperature  of  65“  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  in  the 
daytime,  80°  to  90°  with  sun.  closing  early,  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°  to 
100°,  taking  care  to  have  plenty  of  moisture  in  the  house. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Kidney  Beans. — These  form  a  good  succession  to  early  Potatoes  in 
heated  pits,  and  plants  should  be  raised  in  small  pots,  ready  for  planting 
as  the  lights  are  cleared  of  Potatoes.  Let  the  rows  be  from  15  inches  to 
18  inches  apart,  and  heavier  crops  will  be  had  than  is  the  case  when 
grown  more  thickly.  The  later  batches  of  house-grown  plants  fre¬ 
quently  fail  quickly,  owing  to  either  poverty  at  the  roots  or  an  attack  of 
red  spider.  It  is  excessive  heat  and  strong  sunshine  that  is  responsible 
for  these  early  failures.  Sow  where  possible  direct  in  boxes,  or  failing 
these  9-inch  pots  filled  with  rich  loamy  soil,  leaving  no  room  for  top- 
dressings.  Thin  early,  and  when  the  plants  are  beginning  to  produce 
pods  keep  the  roots  well  supplied  with  liquid  manure. 
Borecole,  Broccoli,  and  Brussels  Sprouts. — The  first  aud 
last  named  should  have  a  long  period  of  growth,  those  plants  early  got 
out  on  good  ground  invariably  proving  the  most  productive.  If  there 
are  no  conveniences  for  raising  the  requisite  number  of  plants  under 
glass  or  on  mild  hotbeds  without  glass,  sow  thinly  in  drills  at  once  in 
the  open,  in  poor  rather  than  rich  ground.  Strawy  litter  favours  early 
germination,  and  protects  the  delicate  seedlings  from  cold  frosty  winds. 
The  only  Broccolis  that  should  be  sown  early  are  those  that  commence 
hearting  before  autumn  Cauliflowers  are  over,  notably  Veitch’s  Autumn 
Protecting.  Sow  the  rest  late  in  April  or  early  in  May.  Borecole, 
Autumn  Broccoli,  and  Brussels  Sprouts  all  succeed  well  when  planted 
between  rows  of  Ashleaf  or  other  early  short-topped  Potatoes,  when  the 
rows  of  Potatoes  are  3  feet  apart. 
Carrots.— The  first  fortnight  in  April  is  soon  enough  to  sow  the 
main  crop  of  Carrots.  In  order  to  have  an  early  supply  of  tender  young 
roots  sow  seeds  now  of  Nantes  Horn  or  other  early  Horn  Carrots  on  a 
warm  border.  The  soil  should  be  freely  worked,  adding  sand  to  heavy 
ground.  Draw  shallow  drills  9  inches  apart,  and  sow  the  seed  thinly. 
Beelts. — There  should  be  no  further  delay  in  sowing  Leek  seed. 
Sow  in  the  open,  and  if  not  crowded  the  plants  may  remain  where  they 
are  raised  till  from  9  inches  to  1  foot  in  height,  when  they  may  be 
planted  on  cool,  freely  manured,  deeply  dug  ground,  1  foot  apart  each 
way. 
Onions. — When  abundance  of  plants  of  White  Spanish  varieties  are 
raised  in  the  open  and  otherwise  treated  similarly  to  Tripolis,  good 
crops  of  firm,  long-keeping  Onions  are  obtained,  and  that,  too,  in  gardens 
where  the  Onion  maggot  is  apt  to  be  troublesome.  Raising  under  glass 
early  and  transplanting  answers  quite  as  well.  If  neither  of  these  plans 
has  been  adopted  ssed  must  be  sown  in  the  open  directly  the  ground  can 
be  got  into  good  order.  Supposing  that  the  ground  has  been  heavily 
