March  26,  1896.' 
289 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Uniting  Stocks  and  Scions. — The  surfaces  must  be  kept  free  from 
any  dirt  or  grit,  as  this  would  prevent  adhesion  of  the  required  parts. 
In  adjusting  the  scions  in  crown  grafting  slip  in  the  thin  end  of  scion 
between  the  bark  and  wood,  working  it  down  until  the  shoulder  touches 
the  stock.  In  tongue  or  whip  grafting  the  tongued  portions  must  fit 
into  one  another.  In  all  cases  of  grafting  one  of  the  most  important 
matters  is  the  exact  joining  of  the  inner  barks  or  alburnous  tissue.  This 
tissue  contains  the  cambium  layer,  a  series  of  long  narrow  cells  con¬ 
stituting  the  actively  dividing  tissue.  If  this  joining  cannot  be  effected 
on  both  sides  one  side  only  must  be  carefully  attended  to,  or  the  result 
will  not  be  satisfactory.  Immediately  the  joinings  have  been  effected 
bind  round  with  soft  matting  or  worsted.  The  object  must  be  to  bind 
firmly  but  not  tightly,  whereby  too  much  pressure  is  placed  upon  the 
joined  tissues.  The  greatest  care  is  necessary  in  the  process  of  tying 
not  to  disturb  the  junction. 
Waxing  or  Claying. — The  exclusion  of  air  from  the  joinings  is 
favourable  to  a  speedy  union.  It  also  prevents  evaporation  and  main¬ 
tains  the  adjoining  tissues  in  a  regularly  moist  state.  Grafting  wax  or 
a  mixture  of  clay  and  manure  are  the  mediums  by  which  this  is  effected. 
A  grafting  wax  to  use  warm  may  be  compounded  of  the  following  : — 
2  lbs.  of  beeswax,  2  lbs.  of  resin,  1  lb.  of  tallow  ;  melt  and  mix  all 
together.  Spread  over  the  joints  when  just  warm  enough  to  run  easily, 
using  a  brush.  Some  prefer  to  use  a  wax  which  can  be  applied  cold. 
The  following  is  a  good  recipe  : — 1  lb.  of  yellow  wax,  1  lb.  of  turpentine, 
2  lb.  of  Burgundy  pitch,  and  £  lb.  of  mutton  suet.  Melt  together  and 
mix,  then  leave  to  cool. 
A  mixture  of  clay  and  manure,  consisting  of  horse  droppings  and  cow 
manure,  one  part  of  each  to  two  parts  clay,  is  excellent.  The  whole  of 
these  materials  should  be  worked  together,  after  riddling  the  horse 
manure  and  clay,  until  they  form  an  adhesive  plastic  mass.  Form  a 
thick  covering  of  this  over  and  around  the  joints  and  on  the  head  of  the 
stock  in  crown  grafting.  Should  it  be  liable  to  crack  tie  moss  over  it, 
and  damp  when  necessary. 
Planting  Apples  and  Pears t — Comparatively  small  trees  can 
with  advantage  be  planted  now,  but  the  operation  must  not  be  deferred 
later  than  the  end  of  the  month.  It  is  not  a  suitable  time  to  plant 
large  trained  trees  ;  but  small  specimens  that  can  be  freely  cut  back 
succeed  with  careful  attention  in  planting  and  judicious  after  manage¬ 
ment.  If  planting  in  stations  prepare  a  circular  space  6  feet  in  diameter. 
In  low-lying  positions,  where  water  collects  in  the  subsoil,  the  base  will 
require  draining,  or  the  trees  may  be  planted  above  the  surrounding 
level.  Freely  work  the  soil,  allowing  a  depth  of  2  feet  for  the  roots  to 
work  in.  Improve  the  texture  of  inferior  soil  by  adding  loam.  A  little 
manure  will  be  beneficial  if  the  soil  is  naturally  poor,  so  that  free  growth 
may  be  induced.  Fertile  soil  will  promote  strong  and  vigorous  growth 
without  manure  being  intermixed  with  the  whole.  Avoid  the  danger  of 
the  roots  becoming  dried  while  the  tree*  are  out  of  the  soil.  Prune 
away  bruised  ends  before  planting,  and  lay  them  out  evenly  in  positions 
near  the  surface.  Stake  and  tie  each  tree  as  planted  except  those 
against  walls,  and  mulch  over  the  roots  with  manure. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — The  canes  Btarted  last  November 
that  have  been  duly  attended  to,  are  now  ripening  the  Grapes.  The 
supplies  of  nourishment  and  water  at  the  roots  should  be  lessened 
gradually,  so  as  not  to  give  a  check,  and  the  atmospheric  moisture  must 
be  reduced,  yet  not  withholding  it  entirely.  Maintain  a  temperature  of 
60°  to  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  keeping  between  75°  and  85° 
from  sun  heat,  ventilating  freely  in  favourable  weather. 
Early  Houses . — In  the  house  started  early  in  December  the  Grapes 
are  rapidly  advancing  towards  the  colouring  Btage,  and  should  be 
afforded  due,  but  not  excessive,  supplies  of  liquid  nourishment.  A  light 
mulching  of  short  stable  manure  maintains  an  even  moisture  in  the 
border,  in  which,  however,  there  must  be  no  deficiency,  as  it  is 
important  that  the  Grapes  be  kept  plump  and  the  foliage  healthy.  Damp 
the  paths  and  borders  at  closing  time  until  the  fruit  is  well  advanced  in 
colouring,  after  which  reduce  the  moisture  gradually,  and  provide  a  circu¬ 
lation  of  warm  air  by  day  and  night.  This  is  all  that  is  usually  necessary 
to  prevent  Madresfield  Court  and  other  Grapes  from  cracking  ;  it  is  also 
an  excellent  preventive  of  “  spot.” 
Vines  Started  Early  in  the  Year. — When  the  Vines  come  into  flower 
afford  a  circulation  of  rather  dry  air,  with  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70° 
at  night  for  Black  Hamburgh  and  similar  varieties,  and  70°  to  75°  for 
Muscats.  All  shy  setting  kinds  should  have  the  bunches  lightly  gone 
over  with  a  large  camel’s  hair  brush,  to  remove  the  “  caps  ”  and  the 
glutinous  substance  sometimes  too  abundant,  choosing  a  warm  part  of 
the  day,  after  the  house  has  been  freely  ventilated,  and  fertilise  them 
gently  with  pollen  from  another  free-setting  variety.  When  the  berries 
are  fairly  Bet  Black  Hamburgh  and  similar  sorts  may  be  thinned,  but 
Muscats  and  other  shy  setters  should  be  left  until  the  properly  fertilised 
berries  are  taking  the  lead.  When  the  Grapes  are  set  afford  top- 
dressings  of  fertilisers,  striving  to  get  a  good  swelling  in  the  berries 
during  the  short  time  that  elapses  before  stoning  commences.  In  the 
case  of  open  borders  a  light  mulching  of  sweetened  material  is  of 
essential  service  in  maintaining  uniform  moisture.  Admit  air  early  and 
liberally  as  the  heat  increases,  striving  to  secure  stout  short-jointed 
wood,  thick  leathery  foliage,  and  tough  elastic  skins  to  the  berries. 
Close  early,  with  abundance  of  atmospheric  moisture,  retaining  85°  to 
90°  well  on  towards  evening  from  sun  heat,  and  allow  the  night 
temperature  to  fall  to  between  60°  and  65°. 
Succession  Houses. — Disbud  when  the  best  shows  for  fruit  can  be 
determined,  leaving  only  growths  for  which  there  is  space  to  allow  the 
foliage  full  exposure  to  light  with  a  margin  for  lateral  development. 
Tie  down  the  shoots  before  the  fruits  reach  the  glass,  and  pinch  one  or 
two  or  more  joints  beyond  the  fruit  when  the  leaf  at  stopping  point  is 
the  size  of  a  halfpenny.  Stop  the  laterals  at  the  first  joint,  and  to  one 
afterwards  as  growth  advances,  or  allow  lateral  extension  where  there 
is  room,  but  only  on  that  condition ;  ventilate  early,  but  avoid  lowering 
the  temperature,  as  this  chills  and  produces  crumpled  foliage  and  rust. 
If  the  promise  is  good  for  fruit,  afford  a  top-dressing  of  an  advertised 
fertiliser,  either  watering  it  in  moderately  or  pointing  in  lightly,  but 
avoid  saturating  the  soil . 
Late  Houses. — Syringe  Vines  that  have  commenced  growth  two  or 
three  times  a  day,  not  keeping  the  rods  constantly  dripping  with 
moisture,  closing  with  a  moist  atmosphere,  in  preference  to  a  wet  rod, 
at  75°.  Employ  fire  heat  only  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  55°. 
Vigorous  young  Vines  do  not  start  regularly,  therefore  to  prevent  a 
rush  of  sap  to  the  upper  part  of  the  canes  bring  these  down  into  a 
horizontal  position,  or  depressing  the  points  until  all  the  buds  have 
started  to  the  base . 
Vines  for  Early  Forcing  in  Pots. — Some  cultivators  prefer  Vines  of 
the  current  year’s  raising  from  eyes,  and  others  cut-backs.  In  either 
case  the  Vines  should  now  receive  their  final  potting.  The  pots  should 
be  clean  and  efficiently  drained,  potting  firmly  in  turfy  loam  with  a 
12-inch  potful  of  wood  ashes  or  a  6-inch  potful  of  kainit  to  every  barrow¬ 
load  of  loam,  and  the  latter  amount  of  dissolved  raw  bone  and  soot, 
mixing  thoroughly.  Stand  at  the  sides  of  the  house,  preferably  on  hot- 
water  pipes  with  an  intervening  slate,  keeping  the  house  rather  close, 
and  if  the  weather  be  bright  shade  for  a  few  days.  Train  the  canes  as 
near  the  glass  as  practicable  without  touching  to  insure  the  solidification 
of  the  growths,  pinching  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf,  and  other  growths 
treat  similarly,  stopping  the  lead  at  from  6  to  8  feet,  according  to  the 
length  of  cane  desired. 
Young  Vines. — Those  planted  last  year,  and  cut  back  to  the  bottom 
of  the  rafter  or  trellis  at  the  winter  pruning,  must  be  encouraged  by 
gentle  fire  heat,  so  as  to  allow  time  for  their  making  and  completing  a 
good  growth.  The  laterals  must  have  their  points  pinched  off  at  the 
first  leaf  up  to  a  height  of  6  to  8  feet.  The  result  will  be  concentration 
on  the  part  below  and  some  increase  of  lateral  growths,  which  suppress 
by  pinching  to  one  leaf  as  made,  but  take  one  growth  forward  from  the 
extremity  of  the  cane  as  leader. 
Planting  Young  Vines.—  Some  cultivators  consider  autumn  the  best 
time  to  plant  Vines,  but  others  prefer  the  spring.  Where  provision  has 
been  made  for  inside  and  outside  borders  the  Vines  should  be  planted  in 
the  former,  confining  the  roots  to  it  until  they  have  occupied  the 
allotted  space.  The  Vines,  if  cut-backs  of  last  year,  may  be  placed  in 
position,  either  before  or  after  they  have  grown  to  the  extent  of  a  couple 
of  inches,  the  roots  being  spread  out  evenly  in  the  border.  Vines  of  the 
present  year’s  raising  will  not  require  to  be  planted  out  for  some  time 
yet,  though  those  raised  in  squares  of  turf  may  be  transferred  to 
permanent  quarters  as  soon  as  the  roots  are  protruding  through  the  sides. 
This  method  is  the  best  for  raising  Vines  for  permanent  planting.  The 
Vines  planted  dormant  or  only  just  moving  will  need  cool  house 
treatment,  but  if  in  growth  they  must  have  a  temperature  of  65°  at 
night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  an  advance  of  10°  to  15°  from  lun 
heat,  whilst  Vines  of  last  year,  and  only  advanced  about  an  inch  or 
two,  will  be  accommodated  with  a  night  temperature  of  50°,  they 
starting  better  by  natural  means  than  artificial.  Syringe  occasionally, 
maintaining  a  genial  atmosphere. 
Pines. — Recently  potted  suckers  indicate  the  rooting  by  starting 
into  growth,  and  the  young  roots  are  very  tender,  hence  liable  to  injury 
from  the  effects  of  too  much  bottom  heat.  If  the  heat  at  the  base  of 
the  pots  is  more  than  85°  raise  them,  placing  some  loose  tan  under  and 
around  them,  but  do  this  without  chilling  the  roots.  Afford  water  as 
required,  yet  only  when  required. 
As  it  is  necessary  that  Pine  plants  be  grown  without  check,  get  the 
requisite  fibrous  loam  ready,  having  it  in  good  sized  lumps,  and  under 
cover,  to  become  warmed  and  dried.  In  potting  ram  it  firmly  round 
the  roots,  plunging  at  once  in  a  bottom  heat  of  90°  to  95°  until  the  roots 
have  permeated  the  soil,  when  they  should  only  have  85°,  which  is 
suitable  for  successional  plants,  with  a  night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°, 
ventilating  at  80°  and  closing  at  85°,  lightly  sprinkling  the  plants 
occasionally.  Fruiting  plants  and  those  near  the  flowering  stage  should 
have  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  and  75°  by  day,  with  80°  to 
90°  from  sun  heat,  closing  at  85°,  damping  all  suitable  surfaces  in  the 
house  at  the  same  time. 
Cucumbers. — Young  plants  from  seed  sown  with  the  new  year  are 
showing  fruit,  and  need  more  warm  soil  adding  to  the  hillocks  as  the 
roots  protrude.  They  like  a  little  bone  superphosphate,  nitrate  of 
potash,  and  gypsum,  about  five  parts  superphosphate,  dry  and  crumbling, 
two  parts  crushed  saltpetre,  half  part  ground  gypsum,  and  one-eighth 
part  sulphate  of  iron,  mixed,  using  a  small  to  a  large  handful  per 
square  yard  of  bed  every  three  weeks  or  so.  This  or  soot  improves  old 
plants  wonderfully,  and  a  top-dressing  of  rich  material  brings  on  the 
roots  and  growth  of  plant  and  fruit.  More  moisture  will  be  needed 
as  the  days  get  longer  and  brighter,  both  at  the  roots  and  in  the 
atmosphere.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  when  mild, 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°,  closing 
early  in  the  afternoon,  and  running  up  to  90°  to  100°,  supplying 
plenty  of  moisture.  Plants  in  frames  will  need  the  beds  lining  and 
good  night  coverings.  Admit  a  little  air  at  75°,  then  allow  the  tempera¬ 
ture  to  rise  to  85°  or  90°,  and  close  so  as  to  maintain  the  latter  figure 
as  long  as  possible.  Water  very  carefully  and  avoid  draughts, 
