AfeMl  2,  1098, 
.torititfAL  op  nonnotiiTunp  AM  cottage  game  Mil 
£i - -r,.-T  -  - -  — - - - - - - - - - - “““ 
branches,  reminding  one  of  some  gigantic  tentacled  sea  monster,  form  a 
striking  object  in  the  landscape  in  rear  the  lower  end  of  the  carriage 
drive.  In  conclusion  we  may  remark  that  not  the  least  feature 
connected  with  everything  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  Eades  was  that 
of  order  and  neatness,  and  that  daring  the  twelve  years  or  so  since  he 
entered  their  service  he  had  continued  to  enjoy  their  confidence  and 
esteem. — W.  G. 
WOKKjoiithe  WEEK. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Trees. — During  the 
stoning  process  the  trees  must  not  be  hurried.  Regulate  the  growths  for 
future  bearing.  Tie  the  growths  to  the  trellis  as  they  advance,  and  those 
more  than  14  inches  in  length  that  are  not  extensions  may  have  their 
points  pinched  off.  When  the  stoning  is  completed  the  fruits  will 
require  regulating  for  the  swelling  period.  On  no  account  tax  the  trees 
unnecessarily  with  more  fruit  than  can  be  brought  to  maturity.  Inside 
borders  must  be  kept  properly  watered,  mulching  the  surface  with 
partially  decayed  manure.  The  temperature  may  be  increased  to  65°  to 
70°  at  night,  and  in  the  daytime  70°  to  75°,  maintaining  80°  to  85°  or  90° 
through  the  day  by  sun  beat ;  ventilate  from  75°,  and  close  early  with 
plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  The  very  early  varieties  will  soon  give 
indications  of  ripening,  when  syringing  must  cease. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  fruits  are  swelling  rapidly 
where  they  have  been  properly  thinned,  and  the  shoots  having  been 
reduced  to  the  proper  number  need  heeling  in.  This  must  be  carefully 
performed,  not  bringing  them  down  too  sharply,  taking  care  to  leave 
sufficient  space  in  the  ties. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  February — Maintain  a  night  temperature  of 
55°  to  60°  in  mild  weather,  ventilating  from  65°,  permitting  an  advance 
to  70°  or  75°  from  sun  heat,  but  with  free  or  full  ventilation.  Disbud 
early  so  that  displacement  can  be  readily  effected  by  means  of  the  finger 
and  thumb.  Leave  one  shoot  at  the  base  of  the  branches  now  bearing, 
and  another  on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fruit  ;  the  latter  not  being 
required  for  extension  must  be  stopped  at  a  few  joints  of  growth.  In  the 
case  of  trees  not  fully  grown  leave  shoots  about  15  inches  apart, 
calculating  from  the  base  of  last  year’s  growth,  to  form  the  bearing 
shoots  of  next  year.  Thinning  the  fruits  may  commence  as  soon  as 
those  properly  fertilised  can  be  ascertained  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
swelling. 
Trees  Started  Early  March. — A  genial  atmosphere  may  be  secured 
by  damping  the  paths  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon,  but  do  not 
syringe  the  trees  until  the  flowering  is  over.  The  night  temperature  should 
be  50°  in  mild  weather,  falling  5°  to  10°  through  the  night  in  severe 
weather,  50°  to  55°  by  day,  and  65°  from  sun  heat,  with  a  free  circulation 
of  air.  Aid  fertilisation  of  the  blossoms  by  Borne  approved  means  in  the 
early  part  of  a  fine  day.  Let  there  be  no  deficiency  of  moisture  in  the 
inside  border,  giving  a  thorough  supply  of  water  when  required. 
Figs. — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Figs  ripening  must  be  kept 
dry  and  but  moderately  watered  at  the  roots.  Trees  swelling  their  fruits 
need  full  supplies  of  water  and  liquid  manure  until  ripening  commences, 
when  a  circulation  of  warm  air  will  be  necessary.  The  temperature 
must  be  maintained  at  60°  to  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  80°  to 
85°  with  sun,  admitting  air  or  increasing  it  from  75°,  closing  the  house 
early,  so  as  to  advance  5°  to  10°  afterwards. 
Planted-out  Fig  Trees — Perhaps  more  failures  occur  with  planted- 
out  Fig  trees  than  any  other  fruit.  This  is  usually  a  consequence  of 
the  trees  being  trained  at  too  great  a  distance  from  the  glass,  but  chiefly 
from  growing  too  luxuriantly.  Keep  the  growths  fairly  thin,  and  do 
not  encourage  too  many  spurs,  keeping  up  a  proper  supply  of  succes- 
Bional  growths  to  displace  worn-out  extensions.  Avoid  syringing  the 
trees  whilst  in  flower.  A  night  temperature  of  60°  will  be  needed  for 
trees  started  at  the  new  year,  65°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  and  70°  to  75° 
with  gleams  of  sun,  but  80°  to  85°  from  the  latter  source  should  be 
secured  with  plenty  of  air,  avoiding  currents  and  sudden  fluctuations  or 
depressions. 
melons. — The  earliest  plants  have  set  the  fruit  and  are  well  advanced 
in  swelling.  Provide  the  needful  supports  in  good  time  and  earth  the 
roots  as  they  protrude,  using  good  loam  warmed  and  pressed  down. 
Keep  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°  to  85°;  this  assists  the  swelling  of  the 
fruits,  and  early  ripening  is  a  great  point  in  growing  Melons.  Night  tem¬ 
perature  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  ventilating  a  little 
from  that  point  and  advancing  to  85°  or  90°,  closing  early  to  retain  this 
to  100°  well  into  the  afternoon.  Syringe  moderately  about  3  P.M.  on 
bright  warm  afternoons,  or  soon  after  midday  when  the  air  is  sharp. 
Damp  the  floors  in  the  morning  and  evening.  Supply  water  or  liquid 
manure  as  required,  it  being  better  to  under  than  overwater. 
Plants  coming  into  flower  and  during  the  setting  period  should 
only  have  water  to  prevent  flagging,  keeping  the  atmosphere  drier, 
with  an  increase  of  temperature  of  about  5°,  a  circulation  of  warm  air 
conducing  to  a  good  set,  and  if  necessary  a  little  air  should  be  admitted 
»t  night  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  flowers.  When 
3li 
the  fruits  are  set  and  about  the  size  of  a  bantam’s  egg  give  a  thorough 
supply  of  water,  having  the  soil  for  earthing  up  warmed,  and  in  a  day  or 
two  top-dress  with  rich  turfy  loam.  Stop  subsequent  growths  to  one  or 
two  leaves,  and  avoid  overcrowding  by  removing  surplus  growths.  Later 
plants  will  need  the  growths  trained  regularly,  removing  the  laterals  on 
the  stem  to  the  trellis,  then  rubbing  off  every  alternate  lateral  directly 
they  are  perceived,  leaving  the  remainder  on  the  right  and  left  of  the 
main  stem,  pinching  the  point  of  the  primary  stem  after  it  has  extended 
two-thirds  of  the  required  distance.  Bow  seed  to  raise  plants  for  planting 
in  pits  and  frames  as  they  become  cleared  of  forced  vegetables  and 
bedding  plants,  keeping  the  plants  sturdy  and  not  allowing  them  to 
become  very  much  root-bound. 
Cucumbers. — Attend  to  stopping  and  regulating  the  growth  not 
less  frequently  than  once  a  week.  To  keep  the  plants  in  steady  progress 
and  secure  straight,  crisp,  tender,  well-flavoured  fruit  a  temperature  of 
65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  85°  with  sun, 
closing  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  to  90°  or  100°,  with  abundance  of 
atmospheric  moisture,  will  be  suitable.  Ventilate  early,  but  very 
moderately,  avoiding  sudden  changes  of  temperature;  cutting  winds, 
and  currents  of  cold  air,  cripple  the  foliage  and  deform  the  fruits. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. —  When  the  plants  are  in  flower  it  is 
advisable  to  shake  the  trusses  occasionally  when  the  pollen  is  ripe, 
removing  the  smallest  and  least  desirable.  Thin  the  fruit  directly  there 
is  a  good  swelling,  leaving  the  member  likely  to  mature  perfectly  of  the 
largest  size.  Examine  the  plants  twice  a  day  for  watering,  affording 
liquid  manure  two  or  three  times  a  week  when  the  fruit  is  swelling. 
Steady  progressive  growth  is  most  favourable  for  Strawberries  until  after 
flowering,  then  they  swell  better  in  a  high  temperature  and  moist  but 
not  very  close  atmosphere. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Early  Potatoes. — In  order  to  have  an  early  crop  sets  furnished 
with  one  or  two  strong  sprouts  should  be  planted.  When  they  first 
push  through  the  soil  a  slight  frost  injures  the  growths,  and  they  ought, 
therefore,  to  be  kept  closely  moulded  up.  It  pays  well  in  most  seasons 
to  provide  additional  protection  for  a  breadth  of  early  Potatoes  on  a 
warm  border.  A  rough  framework,  strong  enough  to  support  either 
Russian  or  home-made  straw  mats,  can  easily  be  constructed,  and  if  the 
Potatoes  are  covered  every  evening,  uncovering  as  early  in  the  morning 
as  it  is  safe  to  do  so,  an  early  and  good  crop  should  result. 
Maincrop  and  Late  Potatoes. — Wet  weather  has  greatly  impeded  the 
work  of  Potato  planting,  but  there  need  be  no  concern  felt  about  this. 
The  ground  for  Potatoes  cannot  well  be  too  freely  worked,  those  planted 
on  lumpy  ground  suffering  from  drought  in  a  hot  summer.  If  solid 
manure  is  used  distribute  it  evenly  throughout  the  ground  and  dig  it  in. 
Artificial  manures  are  very  effective,  and  these  should  be  sown  broadcast 
at  the  rate  of  from  6  lbs.  to  8  lbs.  per  square  rod.  Soot  is  a  good 
manure  for  Potatoes.  The  plan  of  “  hitting  out  ”  the  drills  with  a  half 
mattock  hoe  is  a  good  one,  and  after  planting  fork  over  and  level.  It 
will  be  found  that  uncut  sets  weighing  about  3  ozs.  give  the  best 
results,  but  larger  tubers  will  bear  cutting. 
Chicory,  Salsafy,  and  Scorzonera. — Early  in  April  is  a  good 
time  to  sow  seeds  of  these.  All  succeed  well,  forming  good  clean  roots 
when  sown  on  ground  freely  manured  for  a  preceding  crop  of  a  surface¬ 
rooting  nature.  Shallow  drills  may  be  drawn  12  inches  apart,  and  the 
seeds  sown  somewhat  thinly.  Any  old  roots  still  undug  ought  now  to  be 
lifted  and  stored  in  sand. 
Globe  Artichokes. — This  should  be  a  good  season  for  Globe 
Artichokes,  none  of  the  stronger  sucker  growths  or  crowns  having  been 
injured  by  frost.  They  ought  to  be  cleared  of  all  protective  material 
and  then  freely  thinned  out,  leaving  only  three  or  four  strong  growths 
to  each  clump.  Bare  the  surface  roots  to  a  distance  all  round  of  2  feet 
from  the  growths,  heavily  dress  with  decayed  manure,  and  then  return 
the  soil.  Strong  young  plants  produce  the  finest  or  most  succulent 
flower  headr. 
Herbs. — There  is  plenty  of  Parsley  in  most  gardens.  If  not  already 
done  seeds  should  be  sown  at  once  on  good  ground.  The  seeds  are  apt 
to  be  uncertain  in  germination,  and  if  the  first  sowing  does  not  come  up 
satisfactorily  lose  no  time  in  sowing  afresh.  Sage,  Thyme,  Basil,  Borage, 
Burnet,  Chervil,  Fennel,  Marjoram,  and  Marigold  can  all  be  raised  from 
seeds.  A  rather  'warm  border  is  to  be  preferred  for  these,  and  fine 
freely  worked  6oil  is  needed.  Open  shallow  drills  1  foot  apart  for  all  but 
Borage  and  Fennel,  these  requiring  6  inches  more  space,  and  there  will 
then  be  no  necessity  to  transplant  other  than  where  blanks  occur.  Sow 
thinly  and  cover  with  fine  soil. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. — Cuttings  may  now  be  rooted  for  flowering 
during  the  autumn  and  winter.  Select  sturdy  shoots,  and  insert  them 
singly  in  small  pots.  They  will  root  freely  in  any  position  where  the 
temperature  ranges  about  60°.  Do  not  insert  small  weakly  cuttings. 
These  are  much  better  on  the  stock  plants  until  they  grow  and  gain 
strength.  Do  not  let  these  draw  up  weakly  in  a  shady  place  or  in  too 
much  heat.  They  will  grow  sturdily  in  a  temperature  of  55°  if  fully 
exposed  to  light  and  a  little  air  is  admitted  to  them  daily.  If  the  old 
plants  have  been  in  their  pots  for  a  long  time  give  a  pinch  of  chemical 
manure  on  the  surface  of  the  soil.  This  will  induce  vigorous  growth. 
Strong  cuttings  that  have  been  rooted  in  small  pots  will  soon  flower  if 
placed  in  4^-inch  pots  and  stood  close  to  the  glass  in  a  temperature  of 
50°  to  55°.  ’  They  become  drawn  in  too  much  heat,  and  the  trusses  are 
small  in  comparison  to  those  allowed  to  develop  gradually, 
