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JOURNAL  OR  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  9, 1801 
CULTIVATION  OF  THE  VINE* 
The  gardener  who  grows  everything  well  except  Vines  is  lacking  in 
one  important  phase  of  his  occupation.  There  are  some  amateurs  who 
make  the  Vine  a  special  object  of  cultivation,  and  with  only  space  for  a 
small  house  and  a  few  feet  for  the  border,  either  outside  or  in,  have 
grown  good  Grapes  ;  but  the  majoritv  of  them  leave  room  for  improve¬ 
ment.  Supposing  in  starting  the  Vines  we  have  a  temperature  of  45°, 
which  will  be  high  enough  for  the  first  fortnight,  gradually  increasing 
to  60°  by  artificial  means  until  all  the  buds  have  commenced  growing, 
when  the  average  night  temperature  may  range  from  60°  to  65°,  rising 
to  70°  when  the  Vines  are  in  bloom  all  should  go  well.  When  the  berries 
have  set  the  night  temperature  may  raDge  to  65°,  Muscats  having  a  few 
degrees  more,  and  rising  to  70°  during  the  day.  As  the  Vines  advance  in 
growth  80°  to  90°,  with  sun  heat  and  air  on  at  the  top  and  in  the  front, 
will  be  beneficial. 
Two  or  more  branches  usually  break  fjom  the  same  spur,  but  if  these 
are  a  foot  apart  one  shoot  to  each  will  be  sufficient,  as  the  leaves  must 
have  ample  space  to  enable  them  to  become  fully  developed.  They 
should  not  only  be  large  but  stout  in  texture.  When  the  shoots  have 
advanced  sufficiently  to  see  which  are  showing  fruit  they  ought  to  be 
disbudded.  Great  care  should  be  taken  in  tying  out  the  shoots  not  to 
bring  them  down  to  the  wires  suddenly,  but  doing  the  work 
gradually.  In  thinning  a  regular  system  ofworking  must  be  adopted. 
I  commence  by  pinching  ont  the  point  of  the  shoot  two  leaves 
above  where  it  is  showing  fruit,  and  as  the  shootB  grow  I  examine 
them  again.  The  desired  object  is  to  utilise  all  the  space  without 
crowding.  By  regular  attention  to  the  stopping  there  will  be  a  pro¬ 
gressive  growth  during  the  season,  and  the  roots  will  grow  without  a 
check. 
I  give  the  inside  border  a  slight  watering  when  starting,  but  not  in 
such  large  quantities  as  after  the  Vines  have  commenced  to  grow. 
When  this  stage  is  reached  I  give  a  sufficient  supply  to  thoroughly 
moisten  the  border,  about  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  according 
to  the  weather  and  the  growth  of  the  Vines.  As  the  Grapes  com¬ 
mence  colouring  the  supplies  are  reduced,  but  the  border  never 
becomes  dust  dry.  Liquid  manure  may  be  given  with  advantage 
after  each  watering  from  the  time  of  setting  to  the  commencement 
of  colouring.  The  only  danger  is  in  giving  it  too  strong.  Let  the 
strength  be  regulated  by  the  condition  of  the  plant  and  the  staple  of  the 
border. 
In  thinning  the  first  thing  to  decide  is  the  number  of  bunches  to 
leave  on  each  Vine.  The  health  and  strength  of  the  Vine  must 
be  considered,  and  no  more  left  on  than  it  is  able  to  finish  well. 
For  a  strong  healthy  Vine  a  good  crop  would  be  about  twenty 
bunches  to  a  15-feet  rafter.  If  the  thinning  of  the  berries  does  not 
receive  early  attention,  the  strength  of  the  Vine  is  impaired.  I 
commence  as  soon  as  I  can  after  the  berries  are  set,  and  thin  to  such  an 
extent  that  when  fully  grown  the  Grapes  do  not  crowd  each  other,  as 
this  prevents  the  proper  swelling.  Do  not  rub  the  berries,  or  they  will 
not  colour  well. 
I  give  air  before  the  temperature  rises  too  high,  and  then  in  such 
proportions  as  not  to  reduce  the  heat,  and  always  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  exclude  draughts.  In  spring,  when  the  shoots  are  young  and 
tender,  air  must  be  admitted  cautiously,  because  chills  injure  both 
the  young  foliage  and  the  Grapes,  especially  immediately  after  setting. 
Good  ventilation  or  a  free  circulation  of  fresh  air  on  all  favourable 
occasions  is  essential  to  success.  From  the  time  of  starting  the  troughs 
on  the  pipes  should  be  kept  full.  As  the  buds  break  and  lengthen 
more  moisture  will  be  required  before  closing  the  house.  Syringe  the 
Vines  with  water  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house,  but  let  this 
be  regulated  by  the  state  of  the  weather  ;  but  as  the  Vines  come  into 
flower  this  must  cease.  On  bright  days  sprinkle  the  floor,  paths,  and 
walls  twice  to  keep  the  atmosphere  moist,  less  being  needed  in 
dull  weather.  As  the  Vines  come  into  bloom  maintain  a  rather  drier 
atmosphere,  but  when  the  Grapes  are  set  it  ought  to  be  damp  again. 
Moisture  in  the  air  is  most  needed  when  the  shoots  are  young  and  when 
the  fruit  is  swelling,  but  as  full  size  is  approached  the  air  of  the 
house  should  become  gradually  drier,  and  as  the  fruit  is  ripening 
afford  abundant  supplies  of  air  during  the  day,  and  leave  a  little  on  all 
night. 
When  the  leaves  have  fallen  or  are  yellow  remove  all  loose  bark, 
avoiding  injury  to  the  buds.  Before  pruning  scrub  every  part  of 
the  house  thoroughly  with  hot  softsoapy  water,  to  kill  any  insects 
that  may  be  lurking  in  the  cracks  and  crevices  ;  the  glass  also 
being  accorded  the  same  attention,  so  that  the  Vines  may  have 
the  full  benefit  of  sun  and  light,  as  both  are  most  essential  during 
the  early  spring  months.  This  done,  the  wall  should  be  whitewashed. 
In  pruning  I  cut  in  each  of  the  side  branches  to  one  or  two  buds.  After 
the  Vines  are  pruned  thoroughly  dress  with  a  mixture  of  Gishurst  com¬ 
pound,  at  the  rate  of  12  to  14  ozs.  to  the  gallon  of  water,  adding  softsoap 
and  clay. 
When  Vines  have  exhausted  the  compost  in  which  they  are  growing 
a  renewal  of  the  surface  will  in  most  cases  enable  them  to  bear  full 
crops  of  fruit  for  several  years.  The  soil  should  be  rich  loam,  mixing 
with  it  prepared  bones,  horse  and  cow  manure,  bone  dust,  and  charcoal 
dust.  After  removing  the  surface  soil  place  on  the  fresh  soil,  covering 
the  border  if  outside  with  leaves  or  litter  to  keep  out  frost. 
*  Abstract  of  a  paper  read  by  Mr.  JiMES  SlilMONDS  at  a  meeting  of  the  Rotherham 
Floral  and  Horticultural  Society. 
THE  NEW  ZEALAND  FORGET-ME-NOT. 
This  is  the  plant  to  which  “A  Young  Gardener  ”  refers,  and  it  is 
one  that  is  considered  difficult  to  flower  successfully.  The  family  to 
which  Myosotidium  nobile  (fig.  56)  belongs  includes  a  number  of  the 
most  floriferous  of  our  hardy  plants,  and  from  the  vigorous  habit  of  the 
plant  we  should  expect  an  equally  free-flowering  character. 
The  system  generally  adopted  is  simple  in  the  extreme.  The  plants 
are  grown  in  a  compost  of  loam  and  leaf  soil,  with  one-third  horse- 
droppings  and  a  plentiful  admixture  of  sand  to  render  the  soil  porous, 
for  though  water  has  to  be  supplied  liberally  the  slightest  approach  to 
stagnation  about  the  roots  must  be  carefully  avoided.  A  cold  frame  is 
found  to  be  the  beat  situation  where  ventilation  can  be  given  freely  in 
fine  weather,  but  where  also  adequate  protection  from  frost  can  be 
afforded.  The  plants  start  into  growth  quickly  in  the  early  spring,  and 
the  leaves  advance  rapidly,  the  flowers  this  season  having  commenced 
showing  at  the  commencement  of  April,  and  at  the  meeting  on  the  13th, 
when  exhibited,  they  were  fully  expanded  on  the  majority. 
Myosotidium  nobile  was  first  introduced  to  this  country  through  Mr. 
Watson  of  St.  Albans,  and  plants  were  exhibited  in  flower  at  one  of  the 
London  Horticultural  Society’s  meetings  in  March,  1858.  The  plant  is 
a  native  of  the  Chatham  Isles,  near  New  Zealand,  and  is  botanically 
notable  as  presenting  a  combination  of  the  characters  of  several  genera 
in  the  Borage  family,  its  chief  resemblance  being  to  Myosotis  and  Cyno- 
glossum  ;  it  was,  indeed,  first  assigned  to  the  last-named  genus,  but  was 
subsequently  separated  under  the  name  it  now  bears.  The  leaves  are 
heart-shaped,  8  to  10  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  bright  shining  green 
colour  with  deep  veins,  and  they  have  been  compared  to  the  young 
leaves  of  Cabbages,  to  which  they  possess  some  resemblance,  but  the 
green  shade  is  darker  and  brighter.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  an 
inflorescence  somewhat  like  that  of  the  Myosotis,  and  is  termed  a 
scorpioid  raceme  or  cyme.  The  corollas  are  about  half  an  inch  in 
diameter,  of  a  brilliant  blue  colour  in  the  centre  shading  to  white  at  the 
margin,  and  much  like  the  common  Forget-me-not  in  shape.  They  have 
a  delicaoy  of  beauty  that  is  very  attractive,  and  when  once  it  is  found 
that  the  plant  can  be  flowered  easily  and  constantly  it  is  certain  to 
become  a  great  favourite. 
A  LOOK  ROUND. 
Notwithstanding  the  late  cold  winds  and  driving  rains  our 
gardens  are  beginning  to  look  wonderfully  attractive.  Lawns, 
pastures,  and  hedgerows  have  assumed  that  deep  green  tint  which 
proves  the  richness  of  our  native  soil,  the  buoyancy  of  the  atmo¬ 
sphere  seems  also  to  stir  up  within  us  those  unbounded  feelings 
of  hope  and  vigour  which  are  ever  associated  with  spring  time.  No 
matter  if  the  wind  is  keen  so  long  as  old  King  Sol  favours  us  with 
his  cheering  warmth  and  brightness.  At  such  moments  who  would 
not  away  from  the  toiling  din  of  crowded  cities  and  feast  in  the 
repose  of  a  garden,  field,  or  country  lane  ?  I  often  think  it  is 
somewhat  of  anachronism  to  talk  of  the  “blessings”  of  civili¬ 
sation,  wheD  its  tendencies  go  to  prevent  the  vast  majority  from 
enjoying — except  in  a  meagre  way — Nature’s  free  blessings,  pure  air 
and  sunshine.  These  thoughts  rose  in  my  mind  as  I  was  tempted 
to  spend  a  short  time  in  looking  round  to  enjoy  the  “  Dleasures  of 
gardening,”  as  well  as  to  see  how  things  were  “  doing.”  I  was  not 
long  in  convincing  myself  that  my  time  was  being  well  spent,  for  so 
many  affairs  appeared  to  want  just  a  little  attention  that  I  found 
the  shades  of  evening  drawing  nigh  before  my  peregrinations  were 
completed.  So  much  that  was  interesting  cropped  up  that  it 
occurred  to  me  a  few  notes  on  my  “look  round”  might  be  useful 
to  Journal  readers  by  reminding  them  of  plants  or  shrubs  they 
ought  to  have  or  things  they  ought  to  do. 
Coming  by  a  lofty  building  with  a  southern  aspect  near  the 
flower  garden,  a  sheet  of  ivory  white  catches  the  eye.  Oh  1  how 
glorious  !  No  garden  should  be  without  such  a  sight  as  this,  for  it 
is  produced  by  a  hardy  shrub  or  climber,  that  old  favourite  Mag¬ 
nolia  conspicua.  The  large  cup-shaped  and  deliciously  scented 
flowers  may  be  counted  by  the  thousand,  for  the  tree  is  fully 
18  feet  in  height,  and  from  base  to  summit  there  is  scarcely  room 
at  any  poir  t  to  place  the  finger  between  the  flowers  without  touching 
a  petal.  These  flowers  are  not  only  chaste  in  appearance  and 
delightfully  perfumed,  but  are  also  extremely  useful  for  Easter 
decorations.  Ask  those  who  carry  out  such  in  our  churches  what 
flowers  they  prefer  for  the  purpose,  and  I  think  you  will  find  none 
more  popular  than  these  Magnolias.  I  will  add  to  the  good  qualities 
already  enumerated  the  important  one  that  Magnolias  are  the  easies 
possible  shrubs  to  manage.  Their  culture  consists  in  plantin 
against  a  wall  in  a  warm  position,  training  the  shoot#  to  cover  the 
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