April  9,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
335 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Pines, — Early  Started  Fruiting  Plants. — Plants  started  into  growth 
early  in  the  year  are  near  the  flowering  stage,  and  will  he  benefited  by 
an  occasional  sprinkling  at  the  time  the  house  is  closed,  but  when  the 
flowers  open  this  must  not  be  practised.  The  foliage  being  as  yet  tender, 
it  will  be  advisable  to  afford  a  slight  shading  for  an  hoar  or  two  in  the 
hottest  part  of  the  day  for  a  few  weeks.  When  the  flowering  is  over 
the  fruit  will  advance  rapidly  if  the  roots  are  in  good  condition,  and 
plentiful  supplies  of  liquid  manure  will  be  requisite.  Attend  to  venti¬ 
lating  early  in  the  morning,  commencing  when  the  temperature  is  at 
80°,  and  closing  at  85°  with  sun  heat.  Keep  the  atmosphere  moist  when 
the  house  is  closed,  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°  to  90°,  the  night 
temperature  70°  and  75°  by  day  artificially.  As  soon  as  the  Buckers 
appear  remove  all  except  one  to  each  plant. 
Young  plants  in  course  of  preparation  for  fruiting  often  become 
soft,  drawn,  and  weakly  in  growth  through  a  close  moist  atmosphere  and 
high  temperature.  This  should  be  carefully  avoided  by  dispensing 
with  fire  heat  as  much  as  possible.  Maintain  the  temperature  at  60°  to 
65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially.  This  is  sufficient  to  keep 
the  plants  in  steady  progress.  Commence  ventilating  at  75°,  gradually 
increasing  it  with  the  temperature  to  S5°,  keeping  it  through  the  day 
at  85°,  90°,  or  95°  from  sun  heat,  with  abundance  of  air,  closing  at  85°,  but 
not  so  as  to  greatly  raise  the  temperature.  Sprinkle  available  surfaces 
at  closing  time,  and  syringe  the  plants  lightly  about  twice  a  week. 
Plants  swelling  their  fruit  are  assisted  by  judicious  applications  of 
liquid  manure,  to  be  withheld  when  ripening  commences.  Stake  the 
fruit  to  keep  it  in  an  erect  position.  When  the  suckers  of  fruitiDg 
plants  become  large  enough  screw  out  the  hearts  of  those  not  required 
for  stock  ;  one,  or  two  at  most,  should  be  retained  on  a  plant.  The 
temperature  ought  to  range  in  fruiting  houses  from  70°  to  75°  at  night, 
and  80°  to  95°  by  day.  As  the  fruit  ripens  the  plants  may  be  removed 
to  a  cooler  house,  and  the  fruit  will  then  keep  sound  for  a  lengthened 
period,  longer,  indeed,  at  this  time  of  year  than  any  other. 
vines. — Farly  Forced  Vines. — Early  Grapes  are  readily  had  where 
there  are  proper  structures  for  fruiting  the  canes,  and  these  are  stout  and 
thoroughly  ripened.  Better  results,  however,  are  had  by  planting  the 
Vines  out  in  beds,  with  hot-water  pipes  in  a  chamber,  as  in  growing 
Cucumbers  or  Melons.  If  the  beds  are  8  or  4  feet  wide  they  answer 
admirably  when  drained,  and  about  15  inches  depth  of  soil  provided, 
cut-back  Vines  being  the  best  for  planting.  Train  the  canes  near  the 
glass,  just  keeping  their  principal  leaves  clear  of  it,  then  the  wood  will 
be  short-jointed  and  thoroughly  solidified.  Pinch  the  laterals  at  the  first 
joint,  and  to  one  of  subsequent  growth.  The  principal  leaves  must  on 
no  account  be  prejudiced  by  laterals.  Stop  the  canes  at  6  to  8  feet  of 
growth,  and  if  disposed  to  push  laterals  strongly  at  the  joints  immediately 
below  the  stopping  pinch  them  closely,  allowing  the  laterals  lower  down 
to  extend  a  little,  so  as  to  appropriate  the  surplus  sap,  and  cause  that 
part  of  the  cane  to  thicken  equally  with  the  upper  portion. 
Grapes  Ripening. — The  berries  swell  considerably  after  colouring 
commences,  and  to  secure  the  full  swelling  of  the  fruit  a  genial  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  must  be  maintained.  Afford  a  thorough  supply  of 
water  or  liquid  manure  to  the  roots,  as  early  Grapes  severely  tax  the 
energies  of  the  Vines,  and  through  aiming  hieh,  perfection  in  colour  is 
not  always  attained.  A  liberal  and  constant  supply  of  warm  air  greatly 
favours  the  ripening  process,  especially  if  combined  with  a  comparatively 
low  night  temperature,  say  60°  to  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire 
heat  and  80°  to  85°  from  solar  influences.  Red  spider  is  almost  insepa¬ 
rable  from  forced  Vines.  Sponging  the  leaves  of  the  Vines  with  a  solution 
of  softsoap,  not  more  than  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  is  a  safe  but  tedious 
method  of  freeing  Vine  foliage  from  red  spider.  In  supplying  liquid 
manure  at  the  commencement  of  colouring  afford  it  early  in  the  day,  so 
that  surplus  moisture  may  pass  off  before  closing  time.  When  the 
Grapes  are  fully  ripe  only  afford  sufficient  heat  to  prevent  the  tempera¬ 
ture  falling  below  60°,  maintaining  a  moderate  amount  of  moisture  for 
the  benefit  of  the  foliage.  If  the  weather  prove  bright  a  light  shading, 
as  a  double  thickness  of  herring  or  single  pilchard  netting  over  the  roof 
lights,  will  assist  Black  Hamburghs  in  retaining  colour. 
Succession  Houses. — Early  and  close  attention  should  be  given  to 
thinning  the  bunches  and  berries,  as  each  surplus  bunch  or  berry  takes 
from  the  ultimate  size  and  finish  of  those  left  for  the  crop.  Likewise  in 
disbudding  and  stopping,  every  needless  growth  is  only  so  much  wasted 
energy.  A  margin  must  be  left  for  extension  at  stopping,  so  as  to  prevent 
ultimate  crowding,  and  this  will  insure  steady  supplies  of  nourishment, 
which  means  root  action  proportionate  to  the  foliage  to  digest  it. 
Afford  proper  supplies  of  water,  and  feed  with  liquid  manure  or  top- 
dressings  washed  into  the  soil. 
Vines  Swelling  their  Crops. — A  moist  atmosphere  is  essential,  damp¬ 
ing  the  house  two  or  three  times  a  day  and  occasionally  with  liquid 
manure,  as  guano,  1  lb.  to  16  gallons  of  water,  or  neat  stable  or  cow¬ 
house  drainings  diluted  with  six  times  the  bulk  of  water.  These  evolve 
ammonia  vapour  steadily,  which  in  small  amounts  is  certainly  beneficial  to 
the  foliage  and  inimical  to  red  spider.  Admit  a  little  air  early,  increasing 
it  with  the  advancing  temperature,  and  maintain  it  at  80°  to  85°  through 
the  day  from  sun  heat ;  close  early  so  as  to  raise  to  90°,  and  admit  a  little 
air  before  nightfall.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  75° 
by  day  is  sufficient  from  fire  heat,  never  losing  an  opportunity  of  dis¬ 
pensing  with  it  in  favour  of  that  of  the  sun,  as  there  is  both  economy 
and  health  in  it. 
Late  Houses. — As  soon  as  the  best  shows  of  fruit  can  be  distinguished 
commence  disbudding,  and  when  the  shoots  are  advanced  one  or  two 
joints  beyond  the  bunch  take  off  their  joints  where  the  Bpace  is  limited. 
Pinch  the  laterals  to  one  leaf  above  the  bunch,  and  remove  those  below, 
except  from  the  two  lowest  leaves,  which  pinch  at  the  first  joint,  also 
the  sub-laterals  to  one  leaf.  When  the  bearing  shoots  are  a  good  distance 
apart  all  the  laterals  may  be  left,  stopping  those  and  sub-laterals  below 
the  fruit  to  one  joint  as  made,  but  above  the  bunch  they  may  be  allowed 
to  extend  two  or  three  joints,  or  until  the  space  is  fairly  covered  with 
growth,  then  keep  them  well  in  hand.  Close  the  house  early  in  the 
afternoon,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  syringing  the  Vines  at 
closing  time,  but  not  after  the  bunches  show. 
Young  Vines.— Those  allowed  to  break  naturally,  and  assisted  with  a 
little  fire  heat  when  the  buds  have  grown  about  half  an  inch  make 
rapid  progress,  but  they  need  not  have  a  higher  temperature  than  50°  to 
55°  at  night  and  60°  to  65°  by  day  after  the  leaves  appear,  relying  mainly 
on  sun  heat,  with  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  on  cold  days.  Remove  all 
buds  except  one  at  each  break,  retaining  the  strongest,  and  leave  the 
shoots  about  18  apart  on  both  sides  of  the  cane.  Crop  permanent  Vines 
lightly,  but  supernumeraries  may  carry  full  crops. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Vases. — As  a  rule  these  are  indifferently  filled,  and  consequently  are 
not  nearly  so  ornamental  as  they  might  otherwise  be.  A  large  vase 
with  a  few  small  plants  stuck  in  it  is  far  from  being  attractive,  and 
the  least  that  ought  to  be  done  is  to  fill  them  early  in  June  with  a  mass 
of  strong  plants.  When  only  a  few  ordinary  bedding  plants  are  placed 
in  each  these  rarely  attain  an  effective  size,  whereas  a  vase  ought  to  be 
showy  from  the  first  day  it  is  filled  or  put  out.  Where  the  vases  are  not 
fixtures — and  in  some  instances  they  are  placed  under  cover  every 
winter — these  might  well  be  properly  drained,  filled  with  good  loamy 
soil,  such  as  Zonal  Pelargoniums  delight  in,  and  be  planted  at  once. 
Newly  started  vineries,  or  other  warm  and  fairly  light  houses,  are  the 
best  positions  for  starting  the  plants  into  active  growth,  and  all  will  be 
ready  for  hardening  and  subsequent  full  exposure  to  the  open  air  by 
J  une.  When  the  vases  are  fixtures,  and  also  in  the  case  of  large  specimens, 
a  modification  of  the  foregoing  plan  might  yet  be  adopted.  Zinc 
tins,  or  better  still,  strong  galvanised  framework,  could  be  made  to  fit 
neatly  into  the  vases,  and  these  might  then  be  filled  now  and  dropped 
into  them  in  due  course.  The  same  plan  answers  well  with  hanging 
baskets  and  window  boxes.  In  filling  the  baskets  or  wire  framework 
it  is  necessary  to  line  them  with  turves  to  keep  in  the  soil,  and  the  roots 
also  find  their  way  into  these.  Iron  vases  ought  always  to  be  lined 
with  turves,  as  these,  whether  made  solid  or  with  divisions,  are  certain 
to  get  too  hot  for  the  roots  at  times. 
Suitable  Plants  for  Vases. — On  the  whole  Zonal  Pelargoniums 
are  the  most  effective,  and  the  vases  might  well  be  principally  or  w’holly 
filled  with  these.  There  are  gardens,  by  no  means  the  smallest  or  worst 
managed  in  the  country,  where  a  whole  series  of  vases  are  entirely 
filled  with  scarlet  Zonals,  and  a  brilliant  mass  of  colour  is  presented 
till  frosts  intervene.  If  preferred  the  vases  could  be  arranged  in  pairs, 
the  centres  being  filled  with  one  variety  of  Zonal,  and  surrounded  by 
an  edging  of  either  Ivy-leaf  Pelargoniums,  Petunias,  strong  growing  or 
trailing  Lobelias,  notably  L.  gracilis  and  L.  lit;  oralis,  some  of  the  more 
spindly  tuberous-rooted  Begonias,  Verbenas,  and  Tropteolums.  Mixtures 
may  be  attempted  in  very  large  vases,  large  plants  being  massed  in  the 
centres  of  these,  but  as  a  rule  they  are  failures.  Fuchsias  are  not  suit¬ 
able  for  vases,  Calceolarias  soon  fail,  Heliotropes  become  stunted,  and 
Marguerites  seldom  continue  effective  throughout  the  season.  Much  of 
the  foregoing  is  also  applicable  to  window  boxes. 
Terrace  Plants. — Large  specimen  scarlet  Zonal  Pelargoniums  in 
pots  set  along  broad  pathways,  and  lining  the  entrance  drives,  are  not  so 
often  seen  as  of  old,  but  they  are  not  quite  obsolete.  These,  Fuchsias, 
and  Heliotropes  if  well  grown,  are  yet  very  attractive,  and  Agapan- 
thuses,  Funkias,  Yuccas,  Aloes,  hardy  Palms,  and  common  hardy  Ferns 
in  pots  are  all  more  or  less  effectively  employed  in  decorating  sheltered 
terraces,  drives,  and  approaches.  The  Pelargoniums,  Fuchsias,  and 
Heliotropes  ought  to  be  cut  back  every  spring,  and  when  breaking  afresh 
be  turned  out  of  their  pots,  much  of  the  old  soil  picked  away  from  the 
roots,  then  placed  in  good  fresh  compost.  Unless  this  is  done,  and  the 
plants  started  under  glass,  they  are  usually  more  unsightly  than  orna¬ 
mental.  The  other  plants  named  seldom  require  repotting,  but  if  much 
root-bound  a  small  shift  may  be  given  now. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Shading:. — Arrange  the  blinds  of  the  various  houses  without  delayi 
as  the  sun  now  has  considerable  power,  and  proves  very  trying  to  newly 
potted  plants,  especially  after  dull  weather.  At  the  same  time  be 
careful  not  to  give  too  much  shade  at  this  early  period  of  the  season, 
or  more  harm  than  good  will  result.  Screen  the  plants  for  a  few  hours 
only  each  day  with  open  material ;  shading  of  a  permanent  nature  cannot 
be  too  strongly  condemned.  Crotons  and  other  foliage  plants  of  a 
similar  nature  must  not  be  shaded  if  they  are  to  develop  their  beautiful 
foliage  to  perfection.  It  is  difficult  in  mixed  houses  to  give  plants 
the  exact  treatment  they  require,  and  it  cannot  be  done  when  large 
blinds  are  employed  for  shading  ;  for  this  reason  two  or  more  blinds 
on  each  side  of  mixed  bouses  of  plants  are  better  than  one,  then 
the  plants  can  be  so  arranged  that  one  portion  may  be  shaded  and 
the  other  not.  For  example,  we  devote  one  house  almost  exclusively 
to  Crotons  and  Dracrenas.  The  former  occupy  the  brighter  end,  and 
are  not  shaded,  while  the  latter  will  be  shaded  for  a  few  hours  daily. 
Crotons. — Repot  young  plants  from  time  to  time  as  they  need  more 
root  room.  Water  carefully,  and  keep  the  structure  in  which  they  are 
grown  close  and  moist.  To  grow  these  plants  well  they  Bhould  never 
