336 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  ANT)  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  9,  1896. 
suffer  by  the  want  of  root  room  until  they  have  their  final  potting.  At 
first  they  will  have  the  appearance  of  being  overpotted  ;  but  in  a  short 
time  this  seeming  difficulty  will  be  overcome,  and  the  plants  will  be 
large  for  the  size  of  pots  in  which  they  are  growing.  Give  to  plants  that 
it  is  necessary  to  keep  in  a  certain  size  pot  soot  water  in  a  clear  Btate 
every  time  they  need  water  ;  a  little  chemical  manure  applied  to  the 
surface  occasionally  will  also  be  beneficial.  The  former  in  a  perfectly 
clear  state  may  be  syringed  over  the  foliage  once  or  twice  a  week,  and 
will  have  a  stimulating  effect  on  the  plants.  Where  Crotons  are 
needed  in  a  small  state,  and  quantities  are  damaged  for  various  decora¬ 
tive  purposes,  insert  cuttings  frequently.  These  root  quickly  in  brisk 
heat  during  the  season  of  growth.  When  large  heads  are  taken  off  cut 
them  where  the  wood  is  soft,  and  then  they  will  root  without  losing  a 
leaf. 
Polnsettias. — If  the  old  stems  are  cut  into  lengths  of  two  joints, 
inserted  in  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  warm  house,  they  will  soon  com¬ 
mence  growing  and  form  roots.  This  is  probably  the  easiest  way  of 
raising  these  plants.  Whom  cuttings  of  young  shoots  are  preferred, 
place  the  old  plants  in  heat  and  keep  them  well  syringed  until  growth 
commences.  When  the  shoots  are  3  inches  in  length  slip  them  off  with 
a  sharp  knife  and  insert  them  singly  in  thumb  pots,  placing  a  little  sand 
at  the  base  of  each  cutting.  If  kept  close  and  shaded  from  the  sun 
under  hand-lights  they  will  soon  root. 
Euphorbia  jacqulnlaeflora. — Place  the  old  plants  in  heat  to 
start  them  into  growth.  When  the  young  shoots  are  3  inches  long 
remove  the  plants  to  a  cooler  place  for  ten  days  ;  the  cuttings  may  then 
be  taken  off  with  a  sharp  knife  just  where  they  issue  from  the  old  stem, 
and  every  one  will  root  if  placed  round  the  sides  of  small  pots  and  stood 
under  hand-lights.  Young  plants  of  last  year  that  have  been  pruned 
back  may,  when  they  have  begun  growing,  be  shaken  out  and  repotted. 
Start  these  in  an  intermediate  temperature.  Cuttings  of  Plumbago 
rosea  root  freely  under  hand-lights,  so  also  do  those  of  Thyrsacanthus 
rutilans.  These  should  be  placed  singly  in  small  pots,  and  the  old 
plants  thrown  away.  Directly  the  cuttings  are  growing  remove  them 
to  an  intermediate  temperature,  and  finally  grow  them  cool  throughout 
the  summer. 
Gloxinias.— The  earliest  of  these  may  be  placed  in  6-inch  pots  ; 
also  pot  those  singly  that  are  just  starting  into  growth,  and  introduce 
others  into  heat  in  boxes  amongBt  leaf  mould.  Prick  out  seedlings  that 
are  large  enough  to  handle,  and  bow  a  little  more  seed  where  late  plants 
are  appreciated. 
Gesneras. — Shake  the  old  soil  from  the  earliest  flowering  of  these, 
and  start  them  into  growth  singly  or  two  or  three  together  in  small 
pots.  They  will  start  quickly  in  Cucumber  and  Melon  houses,  but 
once  the  foliage  commences  to  form  they  must  have  a  position  where 
they  will  be  free  from  the  syringe.  Water  on  the  foliage  turns  it  brown 
and  disfigures  it. 
Tydaeas. — Madame  Heine  and  other  varieties  of  this  section  will  be 
lost  it  dried,  as  they  form  no  underground  stems.  They  are  propagated  by 
cuttings,  which  root  very  freely.  Cuttings  are  plentiful  now,  and  when 
they  are  inserted  the  old  plants  may  be  thrown  out  at  once.  If  large 
plants  are  needed  insert  the  cuttings  singly  in  small  pots  and  pinch 
them  from  time  to  time.  When  bushy  plants  are  needed  in  5-inch  pots 
insert  the  cuttings  thickly  together  in  pans,  and  when  they  have  com¬ 
menced  growing  strongly  re-root  the  tops  and  throw  the  others  away. 
These  if  pinched  once  will  make  capital  plants. 
IVEedlnllla  magnifica. — Place  this  plant  to  make  its  growth  where 
a  brisk  moist  heat  can  be  maintained.  Syringe  freely,  for  it  is  very 
liable  to  be  attacked  by  thrips.  If  a  larger  pot  is  needed,  shift  at  once. 
It  does  well  in  any  rich  compost ;  for  instance,  fibry  loam,  one-seventh 
of  manure,  sand,  and  a  little  leaf  mould.  It  will  grow  in  peat,  and  also 
in  equal  portions  of  peat  and  loam. 
Achlmenes. — Insert  cuttings  thickly  in  pans  for  making  up  baskets. 
Those  for  decoration  in  pots  may  be  inserted  in  5-inch.  They  do  well 
in  this  size,  and  form  handsome  plants,  either  for  the  conservatory 
or  in  rooms.  The  cuttings  root  freely  if  shaded  in  a  warm  moist 
atmosphere. 
All  hives  should  have  their  entrance  reduced  so  that  only  one 
bee  can  pas*  at  a  time.  The  inmates  will  then  have  a  much  better 
chance  of  keeping  out  intruders  than  if  the  entrance  were  left  the 
full  width.  A  little  carbolic  acid  sprinkled  on  the  alighting  board, 
or  elsewhere  if  the  robberg  are  likely  to  gain  an  entrance,  will  soon 
have  the  desired  effect. 
In  a  bad  case  of  robbing  it  is  advisable  to  remove  the  stock  some 
distance  from  its  original  stand,  and  feed  with  warm  syrup  at 
night,  covering  the  whole  up  warm.  This  will  generally  have  the 
desired  effect,  and  after  the  bees  have  settled  down  quietly  to  their 
work  they  may  be  returned  to  their  original  stand  without  any 
danger  of  again  being  molested.  Under  careful  management  such 
bees  will  return  a  handsome  surplus  of  honey  should  the  weather 
be  favourable  during  the  honey  flow. 
Open  air  feeding  might  be  practised  with  advantage  at  this 
seaion  (provided  there  are  no  other  bees  kept  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood)  and  is  a  great  saving  of  trouble.  The  one  point 
to  bear  in  mind  is  that  the  feeders  are  placed  at  least  20  yards  from 
the  hives,  as  there  will  then  be  no  danger  of  robbing.  Thin  Ryrup 
should  be  placed  in  saucers,  or  any  other  shallow  vessel,  in  the 
open  air,  and  only  sufficient  be  given  that  can  be  taken  by  the  bees 
during  the  day,  refilling  the  following  morning  or  as  soon  after  as 
necessary.  A  few  shavings  or  chopped  straw  should  be  placed  in 
the  syrup  to  prevent  the  bees  being  drowned. — An  English  Bee¬ 
keeper. 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS 
- - 
%*  All  correspondence  should  be  directed  either  to  “  The 
Editor  or  to  “  The  Publisher.”  Letters  addressed  to 
Dr.  Hogg  or  members  of  the  staff  often  remain  unopened 
unavoidably.  We  request  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions 
relating  to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should 
never  send  more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All 
articles  intended  for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of 
the  paper  only.  We  cannot  reply  to  questions  through  the  post, 
and  we  do  not  undertake  to  return  rejected  communications. 
Double  Primulas  (  Young  Gardener) . — You  will  find,  on  page  329, 
an  article  on  the  cultivation  of  these  plants  by  an  experienced  grower, 
that  will  be  of  more  assistance  to  you  than  could  be  a  brief  reply  in  this 
column. 
Parsnip  Wine  (U.  J.  B.). — You  will  find  the  following  a  good 
recipe  for  making  this  beverage.  Wash  the  Parsnips  quite  clean  and 
cut  in  pieces.  To  every  4  lbs.  of  Parsnips  take  a  gallon  of  water  and 
boil  half  an  hour.  Strain,  and  to  each  gallon  of  liquor  add  3£  lbs.  of 
sugar  and  1  oz.  of  ginger.  Boil  again  for  twenty  minutes,  put  into  a 
tub  to  cool,  and  when  nearly  cold  set  with  a  little  yeast.  Let  it  stand 
three  days,  and  then  put  it  in  a  cask.  When  fermentation  ceases 
bung  down  tight,  and  bottle  in  six  months.  A  few  Lemons  will 
improve  it,  say  one  to  the  gallon,  in  which  case  allow  4  lbs.  sugar  to 
the  gallon. 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Robbing  is  often  prevalent  at  this  season,  and  if  steps  are  not 
at  once  taken  to  stop  it  much  mischief  will  be  done.  Bees  will 
start  robbing  from  a  variety  of  causes,  such  as  careless  handling  of 
stores,  spilling  syrup  near  the  hives,  and  should  there  be  a  queenless 
colony  these  are  usually  the  first  to  be  attacked.  In  these  matters 
one  cannot  be  too  careful,  as  by  a  little  negligence  the  whole  apiary 
may  be  set  in  an  uproar. 
The  strong  stocks  can  usually  be  trusted  to  take  care  of  them¬ 
selves,  but  when  the  mania  has  commenced  many  valuable  bees 
will  be  lost  in  protecting  their  stores.  If  the  robbers  once  gain  an 
entrance  to  a  weak  colony  it  is  surprising  how  quickly  they  will 
clear  out  every  particle  of  stores  from  the  doomed  hive,  and  the 
few  remaining  bees  will  soon  die  of  starvation  unless  they  are  at 
once  taken  in  hand,  and  provided  with  the  necessary  food  and 
attention  until  all  risks  are  over. 
Auricula  Seedling  Dying  (,7.  L.). — The  plant  has  gone  off  at  the 
collar,  and  is  the  malady  generally  termed  “  damping-off.!’  It  is  usually 
attributed  to  an  excess  of  moisture  at  the  surface  through  water  being 
given  immediately  after  potting,  but  it  frequently  arises  from  other 
causes,  such  a*  the  plants  being  placed  lower  in  the  soil  and  the  damp 
coming  into  contact  wiuh  the  neck  or  more  succulent  part  of  the  plant, 
and  this  gives  an  advantage  to  parasites.  We  found  the  usual  white 
worm  (Euchytraeus  Buckholzi)  that  is  commonly  associated  with  such 
decay  in  Primulas,  which  go  off  at  the  necks  of  the  plants,  this  being 
probably  introduced  with  the  potting  material.  The  springtails 
(Acborutes  purpurascens,  Lubb.,  one  of  the  finest  jumpers  in  the  world, 
and  Lipura  fimetaria,  Limn.,  not  a  jumper)  are  probably  only  present  to 
feed  on  the  decaying  matter.  But  there  are  the  white  threads  of  the 
fungus  called  Botrytis  cinerea,  and  this  we  consider  is  the  cause  of  the 
damping  off,  having  found  congenial  conditions  for  development.  It 
may  have  been  introduced  in  the  potting  material,  such  as  the  vegetable 
matter  of  turfy  loam  or  that  of  leaf  mould,  in  which  it  subsists  as  a 
saprophyte,  and  on  opportunity  offering  takes  to  an  endophytic  mode  of 
life,  sweeping  off  whole  pots  or  panful*  of  seedlings.  It  appears  to 
detest  lime,  hence  air-slaked  chalk  lime,  dry  and  floury,  is  a  good 
antidote,  and  this  with  a  comparatively  dry  condition  at  the  collar  of 
the  plant  is  usually  effective  in  arresting  its  progress  and  compassing 
its  destruction,  as  its  food  is  resolved  into  inorganic  matter,  and  on 
•  that  no  parasite  can  subsist. 
