May  ?,  1898. 
431 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  ANT)  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
London  Purple. — A  similar  compound  in  its  poisonous  properties  is 
London  purple.  It  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  Pari*  green, 
using  1  lb.  to  240  or  250  gallons  of  water. 
Spraying  is  the  only  method  by  which  arsenical  compounds  can  be 
effectively  applied,  as  it  is  important  that  a  simple  dew-like  deposit 
reaches  the  leaves  and  no  more.  A  knapsack  distributor  is  one  of  the 
best  instruments  for  the  purpose. 
If  bush  fruits  such  as  Gooseberries  and  Currants  are  sprayed,  the 
fruit  ought  not  to  be  used  before  the  compounds  have  been  washed  off 
either  by  heavy  rain  or  vigorous  syringing. 
Mulching  Fruit  Trees. — If  the  roots  of  fruit  trees  are  near  the 
surface,  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  endeavour  to  retain  them  there  by 
affording  abundance  of  food  and  moisture  within  their  reach.  This 
proves  conducive  to  a  healthy,  steady  fruitful  growth.  A  dressing 
of  decayed  manure  an  inch  thick  spread  upon  the  soil  as  far  as  the 
branches  extend  will  enrich  soil  and  encourage  growth  therein. 
Recently  planted  trees  and  bushes  must  be  kept  well  mulched,  short 
lumpy  manure  being  the  best  to  apply.  Air  and  warmth  can  penetrate 
through  it,  while  its  light  flaky  character  serves  to  prevent  rapid 
evaporation  from  the  soil  in  hot  dry  weather. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Hoxises. — Red  spider  is  sure  to  put  in  an  appearance 
where  early  forcing  operations  are  carried  on,  and  this  pest  on  Vines 
prejudices  the  current  crop  while  impairing  the  energies  of  the  Vines, 
so  as  to  affect  that  of  the  following  season.  Thrips  are  almost  as  bad 
as  red  spider,  and  both  are  usually  introduced  by  plants  infested  with 
them.  When  either  or  both  have  obtained  a  hold  prompt  measures 
must  be  adopted  for  their  destruction.  Fumes  of  sulphur  make  an  end 
of  red  spider,  and  those  of  nicotine  annihilate  thrips.  The  use  of  water 
is  precluded  after  the  Grapes  change  colour,  as  it  washes  off  the  bloom 
and  leaves  a  deposit  behind,  greatly  spoiling  the  appearance  of  the  fruit  ; 
we  therefore  advise  vaporisation  with  nicotine  for  the  destruction  of 
Vine  pests,  taking  care  not  to  overdo  it,  as  the  fume*  may  injure  tender- 
foliaged  varieties,  such  as  Lady  Downe’s  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria. 
Thrips  readily  yield  to  tobacco  smoke,  but  unless  strong  it  has  little 
effect  on  red  spider,  white  fly,  and  mealy  bug,  yet  these  pests  succumb 
to  fumes  of  nicotine.  Early  Grapes  that  are  ripe  will  only  require 
enough  fire  heat  to  maintain  a  circulation  of  dry  air,  allowing  the 
temperature  to  fall  to  60°  at  night. 
Second  Early  Houses. — The  fruit  of  Vines  started  at  the  new  year  is 
commencing  to  colour,  but  as  the  Grapes  swell  considerably  in  ripening 
a  dry  condition  of  the  atmosphere  retards  that  and  occasions  the  spread 
of  red  spider  and  thrips.  Provide  a  little  ventilation  constantly  to 
induce  a  change  of  air  and  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on 
the  berries,  which  often  leads  to  “spot.”  A  warm  genial  atmosphere 
with  a  circulation  of  air  is  essential  to  the  thorough  swelling  of  the 
berries  and  perfection  in  finish.  Maintain  the  temperature  at  70°  to  75° 
by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  through  the  day  from  sun  heat,  advancing  in  the 
afternoon  to  90°,  falling  with  the  declining  daylight  to  a  night  tempera¬ 
ture  of  65°  or  even  60°,  5°  more  both  day  and  night  being  necessary  for 
Muscats.  As  the  Grapes  advance  in  ripening  the  moismre  should  be 
gradually  reduced,  and  this  by  increasing  the  ventilation,  as  there  must 
not  be  any  diminution  of  temperature  until  the  fruit  is  thoroughly  ripe. 
The  inside  border  should  have  due  supplies  of  water  and  nourishment. 
Midseason  Houses. — Attend  to  thinning  the  free-setting  varieties  as 
soon  as  the  berries  are  set,  but  Muscats  and  other  shy-setting  kinds 
should  be  left  until  the  properly  fertilised  berries  take  the  lead.  If  a 
large  percentage  of  the  surplus  bunches  were  not  cut  off  before  they 
flowered  no  time  must  be  lost  in  getting  them  removed,  and  laterals 
that  have  been  allowed  to  extend  may  be  stopped,  tied  and  regulated  in 
accordance  with  the  space  at  command.  Inside  borders  should  have  a 
thorough  supply  of  tepid  liquid  manure  and  a  mulching  of  rather  lumpy 
material.  Where  the  Vines  need  support  a  little  artificially  com¬ 
pounded  manure  may  be  given  at  intervals  with  great  benefit,  carefully 
following  the  instructions. 
Later  Houses — Muscats  and  other  shy-setting  varieties  should  be 
carefully  fertilised,  operating  on  fine  days  when  the  sun  has  reached  its 
maximum,  employing  pollen  from  free-setting  varieties,  and  maintaining 
a  rather  brisk  dry  atmosphere.  A  temperature  of  70°  at  night  and  75° 
by  day  artificially  is  not  too  much  for  Muscats  when  flowering.  Make 
a  selection  of  the  bunches  that  are  to  remain  for  the  crop  before  they 
come  into  flower.  Attend  to  regulating  the  growth,  keeping  laterals 
well  in  hand  by  judicious  stopping,  tying  down  the  growths  as  required, 
for  once  scorched  leave*  never  recover  freshness.  Every  care  should 
be  taken  to  secure  good  colour  and  firm  texture  in  the  leaves  by  free  yet 
judicious  ventilation.  Take  advantage  of  sun  heat  to  increase  the 
ventilation  early  in  the  day,  but  close  or  reduce  the  openings  early  in 
the  afternoon. 
Vines  in  Unheated  Houses. — The  Vines  are  making  rapid  progress, 
and  in  many  instances  the  growths  require  disbudding,  stopping,  and 
tying.  One  shoot  is  sufficient  to  each  spur  unless  they  are  wide  apart, 
when  two  may  be  left,  but  there  must  be  scrupulous  attention  to  pre¬ 
venting  crowding  of  the  growth*,  every  leaf  having  full  exposure  to 
light  and  air.  Reserve  the  shoots  shoeing  the  most  compact  bunches, 
rubbing  the  o  hers  off,  yet  retaining  growth  from  each  spur,  or  at 
18  inches  distance  along  both  sides  of  the  cane  or  rod,  and  if  alternating 
all  the  bfctter.  Stop  two  joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit,  but  rather 
than  crowd  the  foliage  stop  to  one  joint  beyond  the  bunch.  Tie  the 
shoot*  down  carefully  and  gradually,  pinch  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf, 
and  to  one  afterwards  as  made.  Old  Vines  do  not  bear  freely  on  spurs 
ia  some  cases,  being  weak,  It  is  best  in  such  instances  to  lay  in  shoots 
from  the  base  and  along  the  rods  at  intervals  of  about  3  feet,  which 
will  increase  the  root  action,  the  Vines  attaining  increased  vigour,  and 
longer  pruning  will  usually  afford  better  crops  of  Grapes  ;  indeed,  old 
Vines  with  fresh  canes  bear  excellently.  Apply  a  dressing  of  artificial 
manure  to  the  border,  and  point  in  lightly.  In  the  case  of  inside 
borders,  which  are  wholly  unnecessary  and  a  great  mistake  as  regards 
unheated  houses,  afford  proper  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure. 
When  dry  a  thorough  soaking  and  a  light  mulch  of  rather  lumpy  sweet 
manure  will,  by  keeping  the  surface  moist,  encourage  active  roots,  and 
when  these  are  present  near  the  surface  the  facilities  for  feeding  are 
greater,  whilst  the  Vines  are  usually  healthier. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Epacrlses. — Plants  that  flowered  early  may  be  repotted  if  theyneed 
more  root  room.  Drain  the  pots  carefully,  and  the  soil  must  consist  of 
good  peat  and  sand.  Do  not  disturb  the  old  roots  further  than  is 
necessary  in  removing  the  drainage.  In  potting  press  the  soil  firm,  and 
be  careful  not  to  bury  the  collar  of  the  plant  lower  than  usual.  If  the 
plants  have  been  carefully  hardened  they  may  be  placed  at  once  in 
cold  frames.  For  the  first  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  keep  the  frames 
closed,  and  dew  the  plants  with  the  syringe  once  or  twice  on  fine  days. 
Close  the  frame  early  in  the  afternoon.  The  plants  must  be  watered 
carefully  for  some  time  after  they  are  repotted.  Later  plants  may  be 
kept  close,  and  syringed  freely  until  they  start  into  growth.  A  close 
moist  atmosphere  is  beneficial  at  first,  but  as  soon  as  they  are  well 
started  air  must  be  gradually  admitted. 
Erica  hyemalis.— Plants  that  have  commenced  active  growth  may 
be  placed  in  cold  frames.  Be  careful  not  to  crowd  them,  or  the  lower 
foliage  will  turn  brown  and  eventually  fall.  If  the  plants  need 
repotting  do  it  at  once.  Peat  and  smd  should  be  used  for  a  compost, 
and  pressed  firmly  round  the  balls,  which  must  not  be  disturbed 
beyond  the  removal  of  the  drainage.  Keep  the  frame*  the  same  as 
advised  for  Epacrises,  and  then  admit  air,  carefully  at  first,  and  increase 
it  until  liberal  ventilation  can  be  given.  A  firm  sturdy  growth  should 
be  aimed  at  if  the  plants  are  to  flower  freely. 
Erica  gracilis. — This  Heath  is  very  liable  to  mildew  if  the  plants 
are  subjected  to  a  close  confined  atmosphere.  Directly  any  trace  is 
observed  dew  them  with  the  syringe  and  dust  the  affected  parts  with 
powdered  sulphur.  These  plants  may  be  potted  the  same  as  advised  for 
E.  hyemalis,  but  the  smallest  possible  shift  should  be  given.  Do  not 
attempt  to  keep  these  close  after  potting,  but  place  them  in  frame  and 
admit  air  abundantly. 
Cytlsus  racemosus.. — Plants  that  have  flowered  may  be  well  pruned 
and  placed  in  the  greenhouse  until  they  start  again  into  growth.  They 
may  be  syringed  once  or  twice  daily,  and  repotted  if  they  need  it. 
Young  bushy  specimens  in  small  pots  may  b1  transferred  into  5-inch 
pots,  a  suitable  s;ze  for  decorative  purposes.  Young  plants  that  are  still 
instore  pots  may  be  potted  singly  into  2-inch  size.  Grow  these  cool, 
and  pinch  the  shoots  from  time  to  time  as  they  need  it.  Small 
standards  with  stems  18  inches  high  are  very  effective  ;  these  can  be 
run  up  until  the  desiied  length  h>i8  been  attained  before  pinching  is 
practised.  They  do  well  in  a  compost  of  good  loam,  one-seventh  of 
decayed  manure,  and  sand.  A  little  leaf  soil  may  be  used  with 
advantage  for  those  placed  in  their  first  pots. 
CROSS-BRED  BEES. 
That  the  introduction  of  foreign  races  of  bees  has  done  much 
to  increase  the  yield  of  honey  is,  so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  an 
undoubted  fact.  In  some  cases  crosses  have  not  surpassed  pure 
breeds  of  foreign  varieties,  but  in  the  majority  of  instances  they 
have.  The  principal  points  they  inherit  by  crossing  are  greater 
vigour,  hardiness,  and  they  are  more  prolific,  with  a  greater 
determination  to  gather  honey.  Crosses  and  pure-bred  foreign 
varieties  fly  at  a  greater  speed  and  greater  distances  in  search  of 
honey  than  the  original  natives.  I  must  qualify  the  word  search, 
for  when  bees  search  for  honey  there  is  not  much,  if  any,  to  be 
had.  If  there  are  honey  yielding  flowers  three  miles  distant  from 
newly  placed  hives,  the  bees  will,  after  they  have  risen  in  the  air 
and  made  their  circling  flights,  go  directly  to  the  honey  field, 
whether  it  is  with  or  against  the  wind,  so  that,  strictly  speaking, 
there  is  no  searching. 
As  to  what  sense  prompts  the  bee  to  this  accu-ate  flight,  with¬ 
out  any  guide  known  to  man,  I  have  given  my  opinion  before,  and 
do  not  propo*e  now  to  enter  into  details.  If  honey  is  partially 
cencealed,  bees  do  fly  as  if  searching  ;  but  it  is  quite  different  with 
a  field  of  natural  flowers.  There  is  a  small  two-winged  black  fly, 
which  I  see  in  large  numbers  during  the  summer  months  in  my 
garden.  At  times  they  cover  the  gable  of  my  bee  house,  and 
amongst  the  thousands  one  female  only  can  be  seen,  which  I  have 
repeatedly  caught,  placed  in  a  pillbox,  taken  it  within  doors  for 
fifteen  minute*,  then  putting  my  hand  with  it  in  my  pocket  went 
out.  Immediately  great  numbers  of  males  surrounded  me.  It 
appeared  to  me  the  attraction  towards  the  female  was  governed 
