474 
JOURNAL  OP  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
May  21,  1896, 
I  find  that  a  comparatively  free  working,  sandy,  clayey  soil  can 
be  made  to  grow  Violets  well,  but  this  requires  to  be  rather 
heavily  manured  at  the  outset,  or  it  quickly  becomes  too  poor  for 
them.  After  the  first  year  a  light  dressing  of  common  salt  and 
nitrate  of  soda  in  equal  parts  is  given,  applying  this  after  flowering 
is  over  at  the  rate  of  3  lbs.  to  the  square  rod,  stirred  in  with  hoes. 
Strong  clay  soils  must  be  well  drained,  and,  if  possible, 
ameliorated  somewhat  by  a  free  addition  of  fine  mortar  rubbish, 
sand,  burnt  clay,  and  ashes,  or  anything  else  that  will  keep  them 
from  running  together  closely  again.  These  ought  to  be  ploughed 
or  dug  in  the  autumn  or  early  in  the  winter  prior  to  planting  in  the 
spring. 
All  things  considered,  there  are  no  single  Violets  superior  to 
the  true  Czar.  Wellsiana  and  odoratissima  produce  finer  flowers, 
but  fewer  in  number,  while  the  hardiness  of  the  plant  does  not 
compare  favourably  with  the  older  favourite.  During  a  showery 
time  in  April  or  the  early  part  of  May  is  the  best  time  to  form 
fresh  plantations,  and  start,  where  possible,  with  rooted  runners 
rather  than  use  the  old  stunted  stems.  Have  the  ground  in  readiness 
for  them,  making  it  fine  to  a  good  depth  and  firm,  and  dibble  out  the 
runners  as  fast  as  they  are  prepared  1  foot  apart  each  way.  Sink 
them  well  up  to  but  do  not  bury  the  hearts,  and  fix  them  firmly. 
Give  a  watering,  if  possible,  both  at  planting  time  and  occasionally 
afterwards,  should  the  weather  keep  dry,  till  they  are  growing 
strongly.  Summer  treatment  consists  in  keeping  the  surface  of  the 
soil  loose  and  free  of  weeds.  These  young  plants  will,  weather 
permitting,  produce  a  few  extra  fine  flowers  during  the  season, 
and  if  kept  free  from  runners  develop  into  strong  plants  by  the 
following  autumn.  In  highly  manured,  much-sheltered  gardens 
the  plants  become  too  crowded  after  the  second  year,  but  in  the 
open  fields  the  case  is  very  different.  All  the  same,  it  is  advisable 
to  treat  Violets  after  the  plan  that  answers  so  well  in  the  case 
of  Strawberries,  a  succession  of  younger  plants  being  constantly 
brought  forward  to  take  the  place  of  'the  worn-out  plants 
destroyed. 
It  does  not  pay  to  employ  adults  picking  and  bunching  Violets. 
One  man  is  enough  to  look  after  a  dozen  boys,  who  soon  become 
proficient  in  the  art.  When  scarce,  or  if  they  are  large,  a 
dozen  blooms  and  a  leaf  or  two  are  enough  for  a  gentleman’s 
buttonhole,  increasing  the  number  when  they  become  more 
plentiful.  For  ladies’  wear  larger  bunches  are  formed.  When  sent 
direct  to  the  retaihrs — and  this  is  preferable  to  selling  through 
commission  agents — penny  bunches  are  despatched  at  the  rate  of 
sixteen  to  the  dozen,  doubling  the  charges  for  the  larger  bunches. 
Retailers  use  their  own  judgment  as  to  what  to  charge,  and  they 
not  unfrequently  obtain  2d.  for  their  so-called  penny  bunches,  and 
3d.  for  the  larger  bunches. 
With  double  Violets  there  are  fewer  bad  seasons,  and  they  are 
most  popular.  There  are  various  forms  of  these,  but  most  growers 
find  Marie  Louise,  rich  lavender  blue,  the  most  reliable. 
Neapolitan,  pale  lavender,  finds  favour  with  some  ladies,  and  would 
be  more  grown  if  of  a  more  robust  habit  of  growth.  The  pure 
white  Comte  Brazza  possesses  a  good  constitution  but  is  a  little 
late  in  flowering.  Private  gardeners  ought  to  grow  a  few  dozen 
plants  of  it,  especially  where  there  is  a  great  demand  for  button¬ 
hole  bouquets  in  variety.  The  three  varieties  named  survive  in 
the  open  through  a  moderately  severe  winter,  and  this  spring  they 
are  flowering  grandly,  affording  a  good  succession  to  those  kept  in 
frames  and  pits,  but  it  is  only  with  the  aid  of  the  latter  that  they 
can  be  profitably  grown  every  season.  Soon  after  the  plants  cease 
flowering  lift,  pull  to  pieces,  and  prepare  for  planting.  The  old 
centres,  if  younger  pieces  are  sufficiently  plentiful,  should  be 
discarded,  the  latter  growing  into  the  best  plants.  Seeing  that 
these  double  Violets  will  not  remain  long  in  one  position  they  may 
be  planted  9  inches  apart  in  rows  12  inches  asunder.  No  portion 
of  the  hard  stems  ought  to  show  above  the  ground.  If  the  soil  is 
of  a  hot,  non-retentive  character  mulch  with  short  manure,  leaf 
soil,  or  short  grass  from  the  mowing  machine.  Syringing  freely  of 
an  evening  after  hot  days  will  further  serve  to  keep  them  free  of 
red  spider  and  vigorous. 
When  growing  strongly  the  plants  are  apt  to  be  over-free  in 
forming  running  growth*.  These  ought  to  be  kept  pinched  off, 
leaving  only  about  three  of  the  shortest,  with  plantlets  attached, 
to  each.  In  August  peg  these  to  the  ground  close  up  to  the 
plant.  They  will  soon  root  and  become  part  of  the  clump  to  be 
lifted,  producing  flowers  freely.  Next  spring,  or  when  the  time 
arrives  for  pulling  the  old  clumps  to  pieces,  the  well-rooted  young 
divisions  will  be  found  most  suitable  for  propagating  purposes,  and 
the  old  centres  can  be  thrown  away.  This  plan  of  preparing 
young  plants  is  the  best  that  either  market  growers  or  private 
girdeners  can  adopt. 
Strong  clumps  must  be  ready  for  lifting,  and  plants  in  pits  and 
frames  in  September  or  early  in  October.  There  should  be  no 
forcing  and  no  coddling  of  Violets  in  any  shape  or  form.  Dispense 
with  fresh  hotbeds.  Pits  or  frames  should  face  the  south  with  a 
sharp  angle.  Fill  the  bottoms  with  any  kind  of  soil,  making  it 
firm,  using  enough  to  raise  the  surface  soil  to  within  1  foot  of  the 
glass  when  this  is  put  on.  Not  less  than  9  inches  of  fresh  loamy 
compost,  with  a  sprinkling  of  burnt  refuse,  should  be  allowed,  and 
in  this  firmly  plant  the  Violets  (after  they  have  been  cleared  of 
superfluous  runners),  just  clear  of  each  other.  Give  water,  and 
keep  them  close  for  two  or  three  days  afterwards  ;  freely  expose  to 
light  and  air,  ventilating  on  all  mild  nights,  and  drawing  the  lights 
off  whenever  the  weather  is  mild.  It  is  light,  sunshine,  and  air  that 
Violets  most  need  during  the  dullest  part  of  the  year,  also  taking 
care  to  keep  them  constantly  moist  at  the  roots.  They  ought  to 
be  well  furnished  with  blooms  and  buds  when  lifted,  and  if 
properly  managed  will  continue  to  develop  them  in  all  but  the 
most  severe  weather,  when  they  should  be  protected  with  mats 
and  strawy  litter. 
Avoid  a*  much  as  possible  picking  half-opened  flowers.  One 
fully  opened  flower  is  worth  two  or  three  half-grown  ones,  and  it 
does  not  pay  to  pick  the  latter.  We  get  3d.  for  a  dozen  good 
blooms,  and  they  are  retailed  for  6d.  or  more.  With  ordinary 
success  each  plant  should  produce  not  less  than  two  dozen  blooms, 
and  we  calculate  that  the  produce  from  a  light  6  feet  by  4  feet 
will  be  12s.  It  is  a  little  uncertain  though,  so  much  depending 
upon  circumstances. — Market  Groaver. 
A  BUSY  TIME. 
Of  all  the  busy  times  experienced  in  the  annual  routine  of 
garden  work,  it  may,  I  think,  be  generally  conceded  that  the  last 
days  of  May  and  the  early  days  of  June  are  the  busiest.  We  are 
now  in  the  rush  of  vegetation,  desirable  and  undesirable,  with  all 
its  concomitant  duties,  and  could  we  but  return  to  those  good  old 
days  when  bedding  out  was  not,  or  of  the  simplest  description, 
entailing  but  little  or  no  anxiety  to  those  good  old  gardeners,  they 
would,  doubtless,  at  this  season  have  been  found  very  busy.  But 
in  spite  of  a  noticeable  tendency  to  throw  off  the  heavy  incubus  of 
modern  bedding  it  st'll  exists,  and  it  is  just  possible,  although  its 
bonds  are  loosened,  that  it  will  yet  long  enough  remain  a 
considerable  burden 
In  some  places  the  pyrotechnic  display  has  given  way  to  the 
interesting,  if  more  modest,  mixture  of  hardy  plants.  In  others  the 
happy  medium  blends  the  new  with  the  old,  and  a  few  bright  beds 
adorn  the  more  prominent  positions  Long  may  they  continue  to 
do  so,  even  to  occasional  examples  of  carpet  bedding,  for  they  are 
good  things  in  their  way  provided  that,  as  with  all  good  things,  we 
are  not  surfeited  with  them.  But  it  is  easier  to  inaugurate  a 
fashion  than  to  annihilate  it,  and  as  things  are  so  must  they  be 
dealt  with.  In  many  places — the  majority  of  gardens —summer 
beddiog  is  still  a  primary  feature,  and  in  those  where  spring 
bedding,  too,  is  of  scarcely  secondary  importance  there  is  now  at 
hand  the  busiest  of  busy  seasons.  It  is  with  the  latter — the 
all-round  occupation  of  the  beds — that  is  the  chief  concern,  for 
these  are  invested  with  dual  interest  and  a  twofold  anxiety. 
With  the  plans  and  preparations  previously  made  in  relation  to 
this  important  work  it  will  be  taken  for  granted  that  all  due 
forethought  hss  perfected  them  for  the  occasion.  Some  have  them 
in  their  heads,  and  will  probably  get  them  out  all  right  at  the  fitting 
time  ;  others  have  them  on  paper,  where  each  bed  or  border  finds  a 
place  supplemented  by  a  list  of  the  plants  available,  which  will 
facilitate  the  work  of  planting,  and  possibly  prevent  any 
resurrecting  to  balance  matters  at  the  last.  Yet  the  labour  remains, 
and  that  is  now  the  chief  business  ;  the  weather,  propitious  or 
unpropitious,  has  to  be  faced,  and  that  is  a  great  factor. 
One  feels  at  this  season,  and  with  this  work,  that  there  is  no 
waiting.  However  much  circumstances  may  permit  of  more 
elongated  operations  it  is,  I  think,  the  desire  of  all  concerned  to  see 
the  last  of  the  pots,  boxes,  or  in  fact  of  all  these  things  now  felt  to 
be  usurpers  in  their  temporary  quarters,  and  to  see  them  trans¬ 
ferred  to  their  destination— -the  beds.  Between  the  two  positions 
we  are  now  located,  but  the  moving  time  is  at  hand  and  few  there 
are  who  care  to  prolong  the  job  unnecessarily  for  obvious  reasons. 
Yet  any  small  errors  resulting  from  hasty  work,  such  as  ill- 
prepared  beds  or  careless  planting,  may  entail  some  penitential 
reflections  hereafter,  for,  even  here,  poor  work  will  not  pay.  We 
want  our  bedding  (while  the  fashion  lasts)  to  be  at  its  best — better 
in  fact  than  it  ever  has  been.  Who  does  not  ? 
To  do  this  we  must  make  an  effort  (Ah  !  Dickens,  thou  inimit¬ 
able  teacher).  On  the  one  hand  is  the  spring  bedding  in  all  its 
glory  of  rosy  Silenes,  matchless  Violas,  and  late  spring  flowers  kept 
till  the  last  moment.  On  the  other  hand  the  summer  bedding 
stock,  now  at  that  stage  when  undue  retention  in  the  confined 
space  of  pots,  pans,  or  boxes  cannot  but  militate  against  its  present 
