May  2l,  l&tiL 
JOURNAL  ON  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
4?9 
the  better,  so  that  light  and  air  can  fully  circulate  about  the  trees,  and 
all  cultural  operations  conveniently  be  performed. 
Disbudding:  and  Thinning:  Shoots. — C  >ntinne  this  work  as 
opportunity  permits,  and  the  production  as  well  as  advancement  of 
young  shoots  show  where  it  is  best  to  retain  or  discard  by  rubbing  or 
cutting  out.  All  trees  distinctly  gain  by  early  but  gradual  manipula¬ 
tion,  doing  a  little  once  or  twice  a  week,  according  as  the  growth  is  fast 
or  slow.  Vigorous  trees  demand  most  attention,  and  the  forwardest 
parts  of  all  trees  should  be  treated  first.  This  will  give  time  for  the 
lower  or  less  vigorous  growths  to  develop  and  thus  maintain  a  more 
equal  growth.  In  equalising  the  progress  of  young  trees  strong  branches 
that  show  a  tendency  to  extend  beyond  control  may  be  checked  by 
depressing  their  points,  while  the  weaker  may  be  encouraged  by  training 
more  perpendicularly,  returning  all  to  their  original  position  when  the 
growths  have  become  regulated  in  strength. 
Hoeing-  and  Cleaning  Borders. — Weeds  and  suckers  springing 
from  the  soil  mar  the  appearance  of  a  fruit  garden  to  a  large  extent. 
The  former  can  be  readily  laid  low  by  the  hoe,  while  suckers  ought  to  be 
carefully  dug  up.  Those  from  the  roots  of  Plum  trees  are  the  most 
troublesome.  They  frequently  appear  year  after  year.  The  best  remedy 
is  to  make  an  examination  of  the  roots,  ascertaining  the  points  from 
which  the  suckers  spring,  so  that  any  injured  portions  may  be  cut  out. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  Vines. — Where  the  Grapes  are  ripe  fire  heat 
will  only  be  needed  to  keep  the  temperature  at  about  60°  at  night, 
ventilating  freely  by  day.  Black  Hamburghs  will  need  slight  shade, 
which  will  also  prevent  amber-coloured  Grapes  assuming  a  brownish 
hue.  Damp  the  house  occasionally,  not  allowing  moisture  to  be  con¬ 
densed  on  the  berries,  but  dissipate  it  by  early  ventilation.  A  moderate 
extent  of  lateral  growth  should  be  encouraged,  as  it  tends  to  keep  the 
roots  active  and  to  prevent  the  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage,  which 
must  be  kept  clean  and  healthy  as  long  as  possible.  If  the  principal 
leaves  fall  a  prey  to  red  spider,  and  there  are  laterals  to  utilise  the  sap, 
it  is  probable  that  the  axillary  buds  will  be  started  prematurely.  If 
fermenting  materials  have  b'  en  applied  to  the  borders  a  portion  may 
now  be  removed,  leaving  sufficient  for  a  mulch,  and  if  the  roots  are 
active  in  the  lower  part  of  the  material  a  little  fresh  may  be  placed  on 
the  surface  to  protect  them  from  the  atmosphere  and  impart  a  neat 
appearance. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  Grapes  are  colouring,  and 
need  a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  until  the  ripening  approaches 
completion,  when  a  drier  atmosphere  will  be  advisable  ;  but  moisture 
must  not  be  entirely  withdrawn.  Free  ventilation  should  be  afforded 
A  circulation  of  warm  air  contributes  to  pood  finish  and  quality. 
Thorough  moisture  at  the  roots  is  necessary,  and  a  mulch  ot  sweet 
material  will  generally  secure  sufficient  moisture  until  the  Grapes  are 
ripe.  A  night  temperature  of  65°,  a  little  more  on  warm  and  a  few 
degree*  less  on  cold  nights,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  80°  to  90°  with  sun  heat 
and  full  ventilation,  closing  at  80°  all  but  a  small  space  at  the  top  of  the 
house,  will  be  suitable  for  ripening. 
Early  Muscats. — Where  Muscat  of  Alexandria  was  starred  in 
December  the  crop  is  now  ripening,  and  the  Vines  must  not.  lack  water 
at  the  root*.  The  temperature  should  be  kept  at  65°  to  70°  at  night, 
70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  and  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°  from 
sun  heat.  Maintain  a  circulation  of  air  constantly,  it  being  important 
that  water  does  not  become  condensed  on  the  berries  as  a  safeguard 
against  “  spot,”  while  a  warm  and  rather  dry  air  prevent*  scalding,  and 
is  necessary  for  securing  perfection  in  Muscats.  If  the  sun  is  very 
powerful,  and  the  panes  of  glass  large  and  clear,  a  single  thickness  of 
herring  nets  drawn  over  the  roof  will  break  the  force  of  the  sun, 
preventing  scorching  of  the  leaves  and  berries. 
Succession  Bouses. — There  is  nothing  like  opening  the  ventilators 
early  in  the  morning,  admitting  air  in  a  safe  quantity  to  pass  through 
the  house.  By  closing  early  the  crops  are  accelerated  in  swelling,  pro¬ 
vided  there  is  a  due  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture,  which  can  be 
secured  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  at  closing  time.  Before 
nightfall  a  little  air  should  be  admitted  at  the  top  of  the  house  to  allow 
the  pent  up  moisture  and  heat  to  gradually  dissipate.  Thinning  the 
bunches  and  berries  must  be  attended  to.  Remove  all  surplus  bunches 
unflinchingly.  Stop  or  remove  all  laterals  not  required,  letting  those 
retained  extend  where  space  permits.  Supply  water  or  liquid  manure 
to  the  borders  liberally  when  needed,  and  encourage  suiface  roots  with 
top-dressings.  The  night  temperature  should  be  kept  at  60°  to  65°,  70° 
by  day,  and  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat. 
Late  Vines  — Late  varieties  require  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70° 
when  in  flower,  and  80°  by  day,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air  but  not  a 
drying  current,  a  genial  atmosphere  being  maintained  by  damping  the 
floor  occasionally.  It  is  almost  a  necessity  with  the  shy-setting  varieties 
to  fertilise  the  bunches.  Up  to  and  after  flowering  the  night  tempera¬ 
ture  should  be  kept  at  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  keeping  at  80° 
to  85°  or  90°  through  the  day,  with  moderate  ventilation  in  bright 
weather  and  abundant  air  when  mild.  Remove  duplicate  bunches, 
reserving  the  most  compact,  and  thin  the  berries.  Recently  started 
houses  should  be  forwarded,  seeking  advancement  from  sun  heat,  but 
allow  a  free  amount  of  air,  especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  so  as 
to  secure  sturdy  growths  and  thick  leathery  leaves. 
Plantinq  Growing  Vines. — Those  raised  from  eyes  in  February  or 
March  and  grown  in  pots  or  turves  may  now  be  planted  out.  Such  or 
those  pat  out  by  the  beginning  of  June  will  get  a  good  hold  of  the  soil 
this  season,  and  ripen  the  cane  sufficiently  for  cutting  down  to  the  first 
wire  of  the  trellis.  Press  the  soil  firmly  about  the  ball  or  turf,  giving  a 
moderate  watering,  mulching  with  about  an  inch  of  short  manure,  and 
shade  from  bright  sun  until  they  become  established. 
rigs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots — The  first  crop  being  gathered 
from  the  very  early  varieties,  return  to  the  treatment  applicable  to  trees 
swelling  their  crops.  Red  spider  and  brown  scale  usually  gain  a  footing 
on  Fig  trees,  and  play  havoc  with  the  second  crop.  For  these  pests 
there  is  nothing  like  an  insecticide  promptly  and  effectively  applied. 
Where  the  second  crop  is  thickly  set  thin  liberally,  leaving  the  fruits 
nearest  the  base  of  the  shoots,  and  to  insure  a  full  first  crop  another  year  be 
careful  not  to  overtax  the  trees.  Expose  the  fruit  ripening  as  much  as 
possible,  and  increase  the  ventilation. 
P'anted-out  Trees. — The  earliest  started  trees  have  the  fruit  lipening, 
and  must  not  be  wetted,  but  maintain  atmospheric  moisture  by  keeping 
the  mulching  and  paths  properly  moistened.  Supply  water  at  the  roots 
as  required.  Allow  the  leading  shoots  to  extend  without  stopping  until 
they  reach  the  extremity  of  the  trellis. 
Late  Houses. — Train  the  growths  thinly,  allowing  every  one  full 
exposure  to  light  and  air,  so  as  to  insure  sturdy  fruitful  wood.  Afford 
copious  supplies  of  water,  and  syringe  twice  a  day.  Admit  air  early,  so 
as  to  dissipate  the  moisture  by  the  time  the  sun  acts  powerfully  on  the 
house. 
El 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
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QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 
The  Editor  presents  his  compliments  to  apiarian  readers,  and 
desires  those  of  them  who  may  need  information  on  any  particular 
subject  to  be  so  good  as  to  send  their  question*  direct  to  the  office 
of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture.  It  is  contrary  to  the  rules  of  the 
office  for  correspondents  to  send  questions  to  departmental  writers, 
and  for  these  writers  to  answer  such  questions  through  the  post.  See 
notices  to  correspondent*  (page  480).  Every  letter  received  by  the 
Editor  is  attended  to  with  the  least  possible  delay.  All  letters 
should  contain  the  names  and  addresses  of  querists,  not  for  publi¬ 
cation  unless  desired,  but  in  case,  for  special  reasons,  a  private 
reply  may  be  deemed  advisable. 
Vagrant  Swarms. 
I  shale  be  pleased  if  you  will  render  me  a  little  as-istance.  We 
have  had  an  empty  bee  hive  in  the  gardens  here  for  three  or  four 
years.  Yesterday  a  swarm  of  bees  alighted  on  the  hive,  and  in  a 
short  time  went  inside.  There  were  a  few  old  combs  in  it,  in 
frames,  and  a  little  dirt.  They  seem  to  be  making  themselves  at 
home  in  it,  and  to-day  are  flying  in  and  out.  Some  1  noticed  with 
pollen  on  their  legs.  Can  you  tell  me  what  I  had  best  do  at  once, 
as  I  should  like  to  keep  them,  but  am  quite  a  novice  in  bee-keeping  ? 
Also,  if  *•  A  Lanarkshire  Bee-keeper  ”  will  plea*e  oblige  with  a  few 
simple  details  for  a  learner  I  shall  be  much  obliged.  Is  it  not 
something  of  a  novelty  for  a  swarm  to  do  like  this  ?  The  nearest 
bees  are  above  a  mile  away. — Henri. 
[If  the  bees  are  still  working  in  the  hive,  and  the  combs  un¬ 
affected  with  foul  brood,  afford  them  protection  from  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  and  super  after  h  mey  is  plentiful.  If  the  bees 
previously  occupying  the  hive  dwindled  through  foul  brood,  transfer 
the  bees  to  a  clean  hive  and  disinfect  the  old  hive  thoroughly  ; 
that  is,  if  a  valuable  one,  if  not  burn  it.  It  will  be  interesting 
and  instructive  to  others  to  hear  how  the  bees  do  in  the  fu  ure. — 
A  Lanarkshire  Bee  keeper  ] 
Carniolan  Bees. 
As  far  as  can  be  judged  from  their  crushed  appearance  the 
specimens  forwarded  by  “  D.  M.”  for  identification  are  Carniolans. 
They  are  similar  in  appearance  to  our  native  black  or  brown  bee, 
but  are  often  more  grey  in  colour.  They  are  remark ibly  good 
workers,  and  are  considered  by  some  bee-keepers  to  seal  and  finish 
off  sections  better  than  any  other  variety.  They  are,  however,  such 
inveterate  swarmers  that  it  is  not  advisable  to  increase  them. 
This  failing  largely  d  scounts  their  other  good  qualities,  for  what 
is  more  annoying  to  a  bee-keeper  when  honey  is  coming  in  freely  to 
find  his  bees  all  in  an  uproar  with  the  swarming  mama?  Carnio¬ 
lans  are  such  adepts  at  this  business,  and  rearing  young  queens, 
that  they  have  been  discarded  in  favour  of  a  strain  of  good  workers, 
and  it  may  be  better  stingers,  by — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
CONTROLLING  SWARMING. 
In  a  hive  from  which  a  swarm  came  on  May  7th  I  observe  nine 
queen  cells  in  different  stages  of  development.  Is  it  advisable  to 
cut  out  some  of  the  cells,  as  I  do  not  wish  the  bees  to  swarm  again 
this  season  ?  I  shall  feel  greatly  obliged  for  aDy  little  enlighten¬ 
ment  on  the  subject. — H.  N. 
