480 
Journal  of  Horticulture  and  cottage  gardener. 
May  H,  1886. 
[Good  results  will  doubtless  be  obtained  from  the  parent  stock 
if  not  allowed  to  cast  or  swarm  again.  All  the  queen  cells  but  one 
should  be  cut  out.  It  is  better  to  leave  them  until  they  are  sealed 
over,  but  care  should  be  taken  to  select  a  good  bold  cell  which  will 
contain  a  fully  developed  queen,  and  not  to  damage  it  whilst 
manipulating  the  bees.  IE  the  weather  is  favourable  the  queen 
should  be  fertilised  and  laying  in  about  three  weeks  from  the  time 
the  hive  originally  swarmed.  By  that  time  the  brood  will  have 
hatched  out,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  drone  cells. 
If  honey  is  coming  in  freely,  a  crate  of  sections  may  be  placed 
on  the  top  of  frames,  as  many  hundreds  of  bees  will  be  hatching 
out  daily,  producing  a  strong  colony  of  workers,  which  w:ll  at 
once  commence  to  store  a  surplus  in  the  supers.  If  the  swarm  has 
been  placed  on  fully  drawn  out  combs,  a  crate  of  sections  or 
shallow  frames  should  be  given  them  without  delay,  and  if  a 
strong  swarm  they  will  take  readily  to  them,  as  it  is  a  fact  well 
known  to  bee-keepers  that  a  natural  swarm  appears  to  work  with 
much  greater  energy  than  the  bees  from  an  ordinary  stock,  hence 
the  advantage  of  having  early  swarms  to  those  who  practise  the 
swarming  system.  -> 
When  one  is  able  to  obtain  early  queen  cells  from  a  strong 
colony  that  has  swarmed  naturally,  the  first  week  in  May  is  of  such 
benefit  to  the  bee-keeper  that  advantage  should  be  taken  of  forming 
nuclei,  and  requeening  all  colonies  whose  queens  are  more  than  one 
year  old  ;  and  as  the  young  queen  should  be  fertilised  and  laying 
before  dispensing  with  the  old  queen  no  time  will  be  lost,  as  the 
hive  will  he  full  of  brood  in  various  stages  of  development,  and  as 
each  colony  will  be  headed  by  a  young  fertile  queen  the  increase 
of  brood  will  continue  to  the  well-being  of  the  different  colonies. 
It  is  a  much  better  plan  to  work  on  this  system,  as  we  have 
invariably  found  the  earliest  hatched  queens  to  be  the  best,  and 
prefer  to  obtain  them  as  early  in  the  season  as  possible,  which 
generally  happens  before  the  end  of  June.  This  is  better  than 
relying  on  old  queens  until  they  are  worn  out  from  old  age  or  other 
causes.] 
Queenless  Stock. 
In  reply  to  “  E.  L  ”  and  others,  I  may  be  allowed  to  state  that  I 
do  not  trade  in  queens,  nor  in  sundries  connected  with  bee-keeping. 
Being  interested  solely  in  the  production  of  honey  on  rational  lines, 
and  having  a  large  apiary  in  one  of  the  best  White  Clover  districts 
in  the  country,  it  is  a  pleasure  to  assist  others  in  the  pastime.  From 
experience,  I  have  found  that  those  manufacturers  of  bee  appliances 
who  advertise  in  the  pages  of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture  may  be 
relied  on  to  supply  the  various  articles  required  in  an  apiary. 
“  E.  L.”  is  unfortunate  in  having  only  one  stock,  and  that  one 
queenless.  He  may  obtain  a  queen  from  a  dealer,  but  this  I  do  not 
recommend  at  this  season,  as  the  stock  may  have  been  queenless 
for  some  time,  and  when  this  is  the  case  the  bees  dwindle  away  at 
a  rapid  rate,  and  the  remaining  bees  will  not  take  readily  to  a  new 
queen.  It  would  be  better  to  obtain  a  swarm,  or  a  frame  of  young 
brood,  from  a  friendly  bee-keeper.  The  bees  would  then  rear  a 
queen  for  themselves,  but  it  would  be  late  in  the  season  before  they 
would  be  of  sufficient  strength  to  store  a  surplus.  The  bees  would, 
however,  make  a  strong  colony  for  another  season.  But  if  the 
Heather  is  within  easy  reach  they  would  doubtless  store  a  surplus 
from  that  source.  If  a  swarm  could  be  obtained  they  may  be 
united  to  the  queenless  stock,  which  would  have  the  effect  of 
making  a  strong  colony,  which  would  at  once  commence  to  store  a 
surplus. 
In  uniting  a  swarm  with  a  queenless  stock,  it  is  advisable  to  use 
care  in  manipulating  them,  or  fighting  will  take  place,  and  many 
bees  be  lost.  All  the  bees  from  the  queenless  stock  should  be 
brushed  off  the  frames  into  an  empty  skep,  afterwards  shaking 
them  out  into  a  sheet  or  mat  in  front  of  their  future  hive,  which 
should  be  wedged  up  at  the  front  to  allow  the  bees  free  entrance. 
The  swarm  should  be  shaken  out  at  the  same  time  all  together  in 
front  of  the  hive,  and  they  will  run  in  merrily  together.  Should 
they  not  be  inclined  to  do  so  a  puff  or  two  of  smoke  will  start 
them,  and  no  fighting  will  take  place  ;  some  bee-keepers  sprinkle 
the  bees  with  scented  syrup,  but  it  is  not  necessary.  Should  the 
weather  be  dull  after  uniting  them,  they  should  be  fed  with  thin 
syrup  for  a  few  days  ;  this  will  at  once  start  the  queen  laying. — 
An  English  Bee-keeper. 
GARDENERS’  CHARITABLE  AND  PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution. — Secretary , 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  50,  Parliament  Street,  London,  W.C. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society.— 
Secretary,  Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund. — Secretary ,  Mr.  A.  F.  Barron, 
The  Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund,  Chiswick,  W. 
®0°  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  he 
directed  to  “  The  Editor.’’  Letters  addressed  personally  to 
Dr.  Hogg  or  members  of  the  staff  often  remain  unopened 
unavoidably.  We  request  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects,  through  the  post. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions 
relating  to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should 
never  send  more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All 
articles  intended  for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of 
the  paper  only.  We  cannot,  as  a  rule,  reply  to  questions 
through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  undertake  to  return  rejected 
communications. 
Iron  In  Water  ( B .  B.  H .). — If  the  iron  is  not  in  measurable 
quantity  it  will  be  beneficial  rather  than  the  reverse  in  the  water  used 
for  your  garden.  The  subject  will  be  more  fully  referred  to  next  week. 
Cyprlpedlum  callosum  (The  Boy). — If  potted  in  a  suitable 
compost  and  the  pots  well  drained  the  plant  requires  plenty  of  water  all 
the  year  round.  During  dull  weather,  when  the  external  atmosphere  is 
moist,  the  plants  do  not  of  course  dry  so  rapidly,  but  the  roots  must 
never  be  allowed  to  get  really  dry,  summer  or  winter. 
Tomato  Pit  ( Kittw ) — Why  interfere  with  the  pit?  Nothing  will 
be  gained  by  raising  it,  especially  seeing  that  it  will  be  wanted  again 
for  other  plants  next  autumn.  Plant  15  inches  apart  along  the  front,  in 
preference  to  growing  in  pots,  as  being  the  least  trouble,  and  train  up 
temporary  trellising  or  wattled  hurdles  9  inches  from  the  glass.  If 
plenty  of  air  is  given  whenever  the  weather  is  hot,  and  a  circulation 
admitted  during  warm  nights,  abundance  of  fruit  will  set,  and  little  or 
no  disease  be  noticed.  A  mistake  to  avoid  is  leaving  the  frame  closed 
till  it  becomes  too  hot  before  ventilation  is  afforded  in  the  morning. 
Use  firm  loam,  and  prevent  undue  crowding  of  the  growths.  We 
have  seen  excellent  crops  grown  in  the  manner  suggested. 
Oncldlum  tlgrlnum  (F.  F,). — We  cannot  account  for  your 
Oncidium  tigrinum  not  flowering  if  established  and  thriving  as  well 
as  you  say.  Possibly  your  plant  has  been  overshaded,  for  although 
bright  sunshine  is  injurious  to  most  cool  Orchids  a  clear  light  is  requisite, 
especially  during  the  winter.  Place  it  in  the  lightest  and  warmest  part 
of  the  cool  house,  and  when  finishing  the  growths  allow  the  atmosphere 
to  get  a  little  drier,  but  still  keep  the  roots  moist.  Perhaps  you  have  a 
ventilator  in  a  convenient  place  to  suspend  the  plant  near  it,  and  if  so 
this  plan  may  be  tried,  as  often  Orchids  of  many  kinds  are  more  satis¬ 
factory  in  some  parts  even  of  the  same  house  than  others.  All  that  we 
find  necessary  in  the  culture  of  this  beautiful  Oncid  is  to  keep  the  roots 
in  a  healthy  condition,  and  allow  it  to  make  its  growth  in  a  clear  light 
without  scorching.  It  does  not  require  nearly  as  much  shade  as  the  cool 
section  of  Odontoglossum,  and  the  water  supply  must  be  regulated  in 
accordance  with  the  state  of  growth. 
Slsa  grandiflora  (Montagu). — The  imported  tuber,  or  rather  root* 
stalks  of  Disa  grandiflora,  are  sometimes  very  difficult  to  establish, 
while  others,  no  stouter  or  stronger  looking,  grow  away  with  the 
greatest  freedom.  When  they  are  received  it  is  the  safest  plan  to 
lay  them  out  in  a  warmer  house  than  that  suitable  for  established 
plants,  on  a  moist  bottom  of  shingle  in  preference  to  moss.  If  the 
shoots  you  speak  of  are  healthy  and  green  your  plants  are  comparatively 
safe,  and  it  is  quite  time  they  were  potted.  For  compost  use  two- 
thirds  of  sphagnum  to  one  of  peat  fibre,  without  any  sand  or  other 
particle  of  soil  likely  to  run  closely  together.  Without  pouring  much 
water  into  them,  keep  the  compost  just  moist  and  the  plants  always 
shaded.  They  will  not,  as  a  rule,  begin  to  root  freely  until  the  growth 
is  well  advanced,  and  you  must  use  the  utmost  care  in  watering  until 
this  time  arrives.  The  ventilation  is  also  important,  for  it  is  impossible 
to  grow  this,  of  all  Orchids,  without  air.  The  point  is  to  have  a 
circulation  always  going  on  about  them,  but  not  sufficient  to  dry  up 
the  atmospheric  moisture.  When  the  growths  are  getting  strong,  and 
it  is  evident  that  root  action  is  brisk,  increase  the  water  supply,  and 
gradually  inure  the  plants  to  more  air  to  prepare  them  for  removal  to 
the  cool  house,  when  they  may  be  treated  as  has  been  advised  in 
these  pages  for  established  plants. 
Galls  on  Oak  Shoot  and  Leaves  (Anxious  Inquirer). —  Oak 
galls,  or  insects  causing  them,  infest  all  parts  of  the  tree  ;  some  occur  on 
the  bark  and  roots,  others  on  the  catkin,  acorn,  twigs,  and  leaves. 
There  are  two  kinds  in  your  specimen— (1)  the  Oak  apple  and  (2)  the 
Currant  gall.  The  Oak  apple  is  found  in  May  and  June  on  twigs,  as 
an  oblong  or  flattened  mass  from  1  inch  to  2  inches  in  diameter,  is  long, 
covered  with  a  green  and  red  skin,  above  a  layer  of  soft  tissue,  in  which 
are  embedded  numerous  larvse  or  maggots,  each  one  in  a  hard-walled 
