May  2d,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  notiTtOULTURF  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
495 
penitent  to  the  original  owner  ended  in  the  payment  of  half  a  crown, 
the  supposed  value  of  the  plant  at  the  time.  Eventually  it  drifted  into 
Mr.  Horner’s  hands,  who  flowered  it  at  an  early  stage.  The  progress 
and  development  of  each  year’s  pseudo-bulbs  are  an  interesting  study 
in  Orchid  development. 
The  earlier  growths  show  a  dwarf  truncated  form,  each  succeeding 
year’s  growth  showing  a  distinctly  progressive  change  of  habit  in  the 
direction  of  the  growth  and  style  of  the  strongest  species  ;  of  course, 
to  what  dimensions  it  may  attain  to  can  only  be  settled  when  the  plant 
has  attained  its  full  development.  The  plant  already  shows  a  very 
floriferous  habit,  having  bloomed  from  small  growths  6  or  7  inches  high 
in  racemes  of  eight  or  ten  flowers ;  but  each  raceme  may  be  expected  to 
produce  a  larger  number  as  the  growths  increase  in  strength.  The  colour 
is  unsurpassed  in  its  rich  golden  sheen,  but  the  striking  feature  is  the 
marvellously  abundant  fimbriation  of  the  alternate  divisions  of  the 
perianth,  including  the  labellum,  the  unfringed  divisions  standing  out 
in  marked  contrast,  stamping  the  flower  with  a  distinct  individuality, 
combining  novelty  and  beauty  in  its  very  wantonness.  There  is  not 
a  plant  in  the  whole  collection  which  does  not  receive  from  Mr.  Horner 
careful  study  of  its  habits  and  requirements,  but  Dendrobium  Harvey- 
anum  has  won  his  admiration  and  enthusiastic  care  in  an  especial 
degree. 
Without  partition,  a  wide  range  of  “orders  ”  and  species,  including 
intermediate  and  stove  plants,  are  successfully  cultivated  in  this 
house.  Including  many  varieties  of  special  merit  we  noted  over  thirty 
species  of  Dendrobiums.  Amongst  those  in  bloom  the  beautiful 
D.  Phalasnopsis  in  its  wide  range  of  colour,  D.  dixanthum,  a  beautiful 
primrose  shade,  and  a  magnificent  seedling  form  of  D.  Dalbouseanum. 
The  beautiful  contrast  of  its  transparent  amber  petals  and  sepals,  with 
the  intense  dark  labellum  about  4  inches  across,  along  with  its  freely 
produced  racemes,  each  carrying-  towards  a  dozen  flowers  upon  its 
noble  growths,  stamps  this  species  as  the  queen  of  Dendrobes.  Mrs. 
Horner,  who  is  as  enthusiastic  an  orchidist  as  her  partner,  has 
reasons  to  be  especially  proud  of  this  specimen,  it  being  one  of  those 
added  by  herself  to  the  collection.  The  hybrid  Dendrobium  Endocbaris 
has  also  found  a  home  here,  along  with  a  single  bit  of  the  only 
importation  of  D.  lmperatrix,  now  all  lost  except  this  plant  of  it. 
A  fine  selection  [of  the  best  Cattleyas  also  finds  a  place,  grown  in 
baskets  suspended  from  the  roof,  some  in  active  growth,  and  others 
breaking  away  with  vigorous  buds.  The  keynote  of  their  successful 
culture  appears  to  be  the  smallest  possible  quantity  of  compost  about 
their  roots,  and  constant  attention  to  atmospheric  conditions.  Their 
Toot  development  is  remarkable,  being  truly  aerial,  and  consequently 
approaching  as  near  as  possible  their  natural  conditions  of  habitat  and 
environment.  Worthy  of  notice  were  a  remarkable  fine  lot  of  -C.  citrina 
showing  bloom  in  abundance,  and  specimens  of  C.  tenebrosa,  C.  Hex, 
C.  Mendeli,  C.  Warneri,  C.  Trianm,  C.  cinnabarina,  C.  Schroederi, 
C.  aurea,  C.  Schilleriana,  C.  Schofieldi,  C.  speciosissima,  and  0.  labiata. 
Several  specimens  of  the  still  cherished  Lmlia  purpurata  were  burst¬ 
ing  their  flower  spathes.  Lselia  anceps  and  Lrelia  anceps  alba  were 
in  fine  condition.  Cypripediums  are  not  largely  grown,  but  a  few  of 
choice  varieties  were  in  bloom,  including  good  forms  of  C.  bellatulum, 
C.  Chamberiainianum,  and  C.  Charlesworthi.  Of  Angrsecum  sesquipedale 
sestivum  two  plants  were  in  bloom,  one  of  which  is  a  very  superior 
variety.  Coelogyne  Massangeana  and  several  Vandas  in  bloom  also 
added  to  the  general  interest  of  the  collection. 
In  addition  to  the  Orchids,  many  other  plants  of  botanical  or 
economic  interest  are  grown  as  object  lessons  to  the  rising  generation 
and  others,  and  prove  to  be  most  interesting  at  the  local  horticultural 
show,  in  which  Mr.  Horner  is  naturally  much  interested.  Amongst 
them  are  fine  specimens  of  Aristolochia  elegans,  Pilocereus  senilis  (the 
Old  Man  Cactus),  Papyrus,  Calla  Elliotiana,  and  the  remarkable  Ataccia 
cristata,  its  grotesque  flowers  being  the  source  of  no  end  of  wonder.  Of 
course  these  cursory  notes  do  not  exhaust  all  that  is  interesting  in  this 
depaitment ;  but  we  feel  that  we  are  encroaching  upon  the  space  at  our 
disposal,  and  a  visit  to  Lowfields  without  a  notice  of  the  Auriculas 
would  in  no  degree  be  doing  justice  to  Mr.  Horner  as  the  doyen  of 
northern  florists,  or  his  well-earned  honourable  achievments  as  grower, 
exhibitor,  and  raiser. — Azota. 
(To  be  concluded.) 
NOTES  ON  MELONS. 
Drying  the  Plants  for  Ripening. 
My  remarks  anent  the  reduction  of  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  aDd 
at  the  roots  of  Melons  when  approaching  the  ripening  period  (page  294) 
appear  to  have  been  construed  by  “  G.  D.’’  (page  445)  into  the  “  drying- 
off  process,’’  inverted  commas  being  used  as  if  quoting  direct  from  my 
article. 
It  is  quite  right  for  “  G.  D.’’  or  anyone  else  to  criticise  or  to  question 
the  soundness  of  any  assertions,  when  such  are  fully  and  unmistakeably 
made.  In  this  case,  however,  anyone  who  reads  the  article  will  admit 
that  the  “  drying-off  process  ”  was  not  advocated  on  the  extreme  lines 
assumed  by  “  G.  D.” 
I  recommended  the  cessation  of  syringing  when  the  fruit  commenced 
ripening,  remarking  that  less  water  would  be  required  by  the  roots,  but 
the  foliage  should  never  flag.  That  is  opposed  to  the  “  drying-off 
process,”  because  it  is  evident  that  when  the  leaves  do  not  show  any 
indications  of  suffering  there  is  adequate  moisture  in  the  soil. 
Some  soils  retain  moisture  longer  than  others  ;  then  again,  the 
pature  of  the  rooting  medium  may  have  been  such  that  a  large  amount 
of  reserve  material  has  been  stored  in  the  plant,  upon  which  the  fruit 
draws  in  maturing  and  ripening.  This  largely  accounts  for  successful 
results  under  what  is  termed  the  “drying  process;”  but  there  can  be 
no  doubt  that  the  safest  course  is  to  maintain  healthy  leaf  activity, 
which  cannot  be  done  if  the  roots  are  neglected.— E.  D.  S. 
Salient  Points. 
Melons  are  now  making  progress  in  pits  and  frames  in  gardens 
innumerable,  and  for  obtaining  satisfactory  results  the  plants  must  have 
the  best  possible  attention  throughout  their  career.  Young  plants  should 
have  the  shoots  thinned  to  four  under  each  light,  two  being  taken  to  the 
front  and  two  to  the  back.  Keep  the  laterals  rubbed  off  to  quite  6  inches 
from  the  stem,  and  pinch  the  main  shoots  12  to  15  inches  from  the  sides 
of  the  frames  or  pits.  The  laterals  will  show  fruit  at  the  first  or  second 
joint.  When  the  flowers  are  fully  expanded  fertilise  them  about  noon 
on  a  fine  day,  leaving  a  little  air  on  constantly  to  prevent  the  condensa¬ 
tion  of  moisture  on  the  blossoms,  a  moist  close  atmosphere  being  fatal 
to  a  good  set. 
Pinch  out  the  points  of  the  shoots  one  joint  above  the  fruit,  and  after 
three  or  four  fruits  are  set  and  swelling  remove  all  others.  Keep  the 
subsequent  growths  closely  pinched,  and  thin  them  if  likely  to  crowd 
the  principal  foliage.  Afford  weak  liquid  manure,  but  keep  it  from  the 
foliage,  and  sprinkle  the  plants  in  the  afternoon  of  fine  days,  closing 
about  3.30  P.M.  to  4  P.M.,  or  so  early  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  90°  or 
95°,  and  ventilate  early  in  the  day,  or  from  7.30  A.M.  to  8  A.M.,  main¬ 
taining  a  day  temperature  of  80°  to  85°,  and  reduce  the  ventilation 
gradually. 
Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides,  and  if  needed  fumigate  on  two 
or  three  consecutive  evenings  moderately,  an  overdose  doing  great  injury. 
Shade  the  following  days  if  the  weather  be  bright,  and  always  have  the 
foliage  dry  when  fumigating.  If  canker  appears  rub  quicklime  into  the 
affected  parts  until  they  are  dry,  and  repeat  as  occasion  requires,  being 
careful  to  water  away  from  the  collar.  Red  spider  will  not  appear  if 
the  plants  are  kept  properly  supplied  with  water  and  nourishment  at 
the  roots,  and  the  atmosphere  in  a  moist  genial  condition. 
When  a  sufficient  number  of  fruits  of  equal  size  are  set  upon  a  plant 
remove  all  the  others  and  all  flowers.  Four  to  six  fruits  are  as  many  as 
an  ordinary  healthy  plant  can  bring  to  maturity  in  a  frame.  Over¬ 
cropping  is  fatal  to  size  and  quality,  and  very  often  the  fruit  does  not 
reach  maturity,  but  ripens  prematurely.  Plants  swelling  their  fruits 
should  have  liberal  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure,  and  additions 
made  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks  of  fresh  warm  soil  as  the  roots  protrude. 
Though  the  water  supply  may  be  slightly  reduced  when  Melons  show 
signs  of  changing,  it  is  all  the  same  essential  to  keep  the  leaves 
absolutely  clean,  fresh,  and  healthy  throughout  the  ripening  process,  for 
the  satisfactory  development  of  the  fruit,  and  securing  the  highest 
possible  flavour  that  is  attainable  by  the  variety  grown.  These  few 
salient  points  in  Melon  culture  may  be  useful  to  young  practitioners  by 
— An  Old  Grower. 
HARDY  PLANTS  IN  POTS. 
I  have  frequently  drawn  attention  in  the  pages  of  the  Journal  of 
Horticulture  to  the  advantages  of  potting  hardy  plants  for  decorative 
purposes.  These  may  often  be  prepared  for  special  events  more  quickly 
than  greenhouse  plants,  and  when  they  have  done  good  service  be 
consigned  to  the  rubbish  heap,  or  planted  in  the  reserve  garden,  where 
they  give  but  little  trouble  for  at  least  nine  months  in  the  year.  The 
occasional  introduction  of  this  class  of  plants  into  house  decoration 
provides  a  display  quite  novel  and  effective  in  appearance,  and  is 
therefore  welcomed  ;  for  novelty  as  well  as  beauty  we  must  have  in  these 
days,  even  at  the  risk  of  using  what  some  teim  “common  flowers.” 
It  is  not  the  intrinsic  value  of  flowers  that  the  high-class  decorator 
studies,  but  rather  their  suitability  for  producing  beautiful  and  striking 
effects.  During  April  few  plants  are  so  showy  and  striking  as  good 
potfuls  of  Doronicum  plantagineum  excelsum  ;  clumps  of  these  if 
potted  in  December  or  January,  and  placed  in  a  cool  vinery  or 
greenhouse,  will  commence  flowering  in  February,  and  continue  till 
flowers  are  produced  from  plants  growing  in  the  open  air,  which  is 
usually  about  the  middle  of  April.  The  bright  golden  flowers  borne  on 
long  stems  are  exceedingly  effective  when  arranged  in  glasses.  Indeed 
they  are  a  type  of  flowers  always  in  demand  among  florists  and  deco¬ 
rators.  As  soon  as  plants  growing  in  the  open  air  begin  to  flower,  those 
grown  in  pots  should  be  divided  and  planted  out ;  they  will  then  give 
a  second  crop  of  flowers  during  the  summer  months,  and  if  required  the 
plants  be  in  good  condition  for  potting  again  in  December,  although 
it  is  preferable  to  lift  on  alternate  years. 
Canterbury  Bells. 
These  old  favourite  biennials  are  extremely  showy  and  well  adapted 
for  pot  culture.  I  sow  the  seeds  in  April,  prick  out  the  young  plants 
when  large  enough  and  again  transplant,  placing  the  plants  9  inches 
apart,  which  distance  allows  them  to  develop  into  a  very  sturdy  habit  of 
growth.  Sometimes  during  March  these  plants  are  lifted  and  placed 
in  7  or  8-inch  pots,  using  a  fairly  rich  compost  and  ramming  it  firmly. 
They  are  then  grown  in  cool  pits  till  they  become  too  tall  for  such 
positions  and  are  therefore  removed  to  a  greenhouse. 
If  kept  close  by  the  glass  and  well  supplied  with  liquid  or  chimical 
manure,  they  flower  grandly  during  May  ;  in  fact,  few  flowers  are  more 
attractive  when  placed  singly  in  vases  standing  on  pedestals  or  in  other 
elevated  positions,  and  yet  how  little  labour  their  culture  entails.  The 
modern  rose-coloured  variety,  Campanula  media  calycanlhema  rosea, 
