May  28,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTtJhE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
501 
successfully  combated  by  the  use  of  the  powder  fungicides,  such  as 
“  Fostite,”  containing  sulphate  of  copper  with  lime.  Sulphur,  however, 
has  the  advantage  of  being  hateful  to  red  spider. 
Pines. — Plants  finally  potted  last  September  are  showing  fruit.  If 
any  plants  of  that  age  are  not  fiuiting  subject  them  to  compaiative  rest 
for  four  to  six  weeks,  lowering  the  heat  at  the  roots  to  75°,  and  admitting 
air  fully  at  75°  to  80°,  and  let  the  temperature  fall  to  75°  before  closing 
the  house  for  the  day  ;  night  temperature  60°. 
Suckers  potted  in  March  should  now  be  placed  in  their  largest  pots, 
affording  the  plants  a  regular  bottom  heat  of  85°  to  90°,  giving  water 
only  until  the  soil  becomes  dry.  Allow  young  plants  sufficient  space 
for  development,  as  sturdy  are  not  to  be  had  by  crowding  them  in  the 
early  stages  of  their  growth.  Ventilate  early  in  the  day  at  75°  to  80°  to 
render  the  foliage  dry  before  it  is  affected  by  the  sun. 
Cherry  House. — When  the  whole  of  tbe  crop  is  ripe  the  chief  con¬ 
sideration  is  to  keep  the  fruit  fresh  and  prolong  the  season  as  long  as 
possible.  Free  ventilation  must  be  attended  to,  and  in  hot  weather  a 
sprinkling  of  the  surface  of  the  border  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day 
will  assist  in  keeping  the  fruit  plump.  The  supply  of  water  must  not 
be  neglected,  for  dryness  is  inimical  to  the  development  of  the  buds  for 
the  ensuing  season’s  crop  of  fruit  as  well  as  the  health  of  the  trees. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Beans. — Broad  Beans  have  been  much  stunted  by  the  hot  sunshine 
and  cold  nights,  many  of  them  commencing  to  flower  prematurely.  If 
they  can  be  kept  fresh  and  growing  by  means  of  occasional  soakings  of 
water  and  liquid  manure  they  will  yet  produce  good  crops.  Mulch  with 
strawy  litter  after  the  next  heavy  watering  has  been  given,  and  top 
beyond  where  they  cease  to  set  pods.  If  late  supplies  are  needed  sow 
more  seed  of  the  best  of  the  broad-podded  section  in  cool  well  manured 
quarters. 
Kidney  Beans. — Where  these  were  lightly  protected  from  late  frosts 
the  plants  are  growing  strongly.  Thin  out  to  a  distance  of  8  to  12  inches 
apart  ;  draw  mould  to  the  stems,  this  steadying  and  otherwise  benefiting 
the  plants.  Liquid  manure  poured  along  the  furrows  will  also  do  good 
service.  Sow  the  stronger  growing  varieties  now,  notably  Negro  Long- 
pod  and  Canadian  Wonder,  thinly  in  drills  2  feet  apart. 
Runner  Beans. — These  where  sown  early  have  come  up  strongly. 
These,  in  common  with  the  Kidney  or  Dwarf  section,  transplant 
readily.  In  colder  districts  now  is  a  good  time  to  sow  for  the  main 
crops.  Let  the  Beans  have  the  benefit  of  a  well  manured  deeply  cul¬ 
tivated  root  run  and  an  open  position  The  rows  should  be  6  feet  apart 
if  stakes  of  that  height  are  to  be  used,  another  2  feet  being  none  too 
much  where  double  lines  and  taller  stakes  are  arranged  for. 
Broccoli. — Those  raised  under  glass  and  pricked  out  are  large 
enough  to  finally  plant  our.  The  earlier  varieties  may  be  planted 
between  widely  disposed  rows  of  early  short-topped  Potatoes.  If  tbe 
rows  are  3  feet  apart,  2  feet  from  plant  to  plant  is  enough  space. 
Seeing  that  most  of  the  early  Broccoli  will  be  cut  before  autumn  or 
early  winter  frosts  intervene,  they  may  be  grown  more  strongly  than  is 
desirable  in  the  case  of  late  varieties.  Broccoli  that  is  wanted  to  stand 
through  the  winter  should  be  planted  on  ground  only  moderately  rich 
and  made  solid,  allowing  good  room,  or  3  feet  by  30  inches,  also  tending 
to  keep  the  plants  sturdy. 
Brussels  Sprouts. — Early  plants  of  these  will  also  have  been 
pricked  out  in  most  gardens.  Early  Potatoes  in  rows  3  feet  apart  may 
at  once  be  planted  between,  allowing  30  inches  from  plant  to  plant. 
Nearly  or  quite  as  much  space  should  be  given  Brussels  Sprouts  planted 
on  ground  well  prepared  specially  for  this  important  crop. 
Tomatoes. — Now  that  greenhouses  have  been  largely  emptied  of 
their  winter  and  spring  occupants,  some  of  them,  or  even  the  sunny 
fronts  and  back  walls  only,  may  be  devoted  to  Tomato  culture.  In  these 
positions  the  fruit  should  commence  ripening  earlier  than  will  those  on 
open  air  plants,  and  be  particularly  acceptable  in  the  event  of  the  latter 
failing.  Large  pots,  boxes,  or  small  tubs  are  most  suitable.  For  boxes, 
pots,  or  ridges  use  fresh  yellow  loam  or  the  best  fresh  garden  soil 
procurable,  and  to  three  parts  of  this  put  one  part  of  nearly  fresh  horse 
droppings,  with  burn  bake  and  small  charcoal  added.  Quite  small 
plants,  or  any  not  badly  root-bound  and  stunted,  are  the  quickest  to 
take  possession  of  new  soil  and  the  first  to  set  crops.  See  that  they  are 
moist  prior  to  turning  out  of  the  pots,  and  replant  firmly.  If  arranged 
along  the  front  of  a  house  and  against  back  walls  plant  12  to  15  inches 
apart,  and  if  in  rows  across  a  house  let  these  be  3  feet  apart  and  the 
plants  15  inches.  In  the  former  instance  train  straight  up  the  roofs  and 
walls,  and  the  rest  stake  uprightly  or  else  support  with  strings  running 
from  short  stakes  to  the  roof.  Confine  to  single  stems,  and  pinch  out 
all  side  shoots  as  fast  as  they  form. 
Vegetable  Marrows  and  Ridge  Cucumbers.— If  these  can  be 
protected  with  hand-lights  they  may  be  planted,  and  seed  ought  to  be 
sown  at  once  where  the  plants  are  to  grow  in  all  cases  where  there  are 
no  conveniences  for  raising  a  few  early  plants  under  glass.  Great  heaps 
of  manure  are  by  no  means  indispensable.  One  foot  or  less  of  manure 
to  a  width  of  3  feet  supporting  6  inches  of  ordinary  garden  soil  is  all 
the  ridge  needed, 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Folnsettlas — These  should  have  started  well  into  growth  by  this 
time.  The  old  soil  should  be  shaken  from  the  roots  and  the  plants 
repotted  in  the  same  size  pots  or  smaller.  They  do  well  in  loam, 
one-seventh  of  decayed  manure,  and  sand.  It  is  a  good  plan,  after 
repotting,  to  stand  them  on  the  surface  of  a  slight  hotbed  in  a  cool 
frame.  This  gives  them  a  good  start,  and  there  is  no  risk  of  the  plants 
being  checked,  as  they  are  subjected  to  cool  treatment  gradually. 
Water  carefully  at  first,  and  close  the  frame  early  after  dewing  the 
plants  over  with  the  syringe.  Young  plants  raised  from  portions  of 
stem  should  be  well  rooted  and  ready  for  4  or  5-inch  pots.  These  may 
be  placed  with  the  general  stock  after  they  are  potted,  and  will  grow 
together.  Admit  plenty  of  air  during  bright  warm  days  to  insure  firm 
sturdy  growth.  Shading  may  be  necessary  for  a  few  days  after  the 
plants  are  first  repotted  until  they  have  made  roots,  when  it  should  be 
gradually  discontinued  and  the  plants  fully  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Euphorbias.— All  the  cuttings  that  are  necessary  to  increase  the 
stock  should  be  either  rooted  or  inserted  by  this  time.  Those  rooted  may 
be  potted  singly  and  started  in  heat  until  they  are  well  established. 
Thoee  that  are  already  established  in  Small  pots  may  be  placed  in  frames 
with  Poinsettias  and  given  the  same  treatment.  The  former  require 
smaller  pots  than  the  latter.  The  old  stocks  reserved  for  cuttings  may 
be  cut  close  back  ;  these  soon  break  into  growth  in  heat,  when  they  may 
be  repotted.  Care  is  needed  at  first  in  the  watering  of  these  plants  until' 
they  are  well  established.  They  should  be  grown  throughout  the 
summer  in  cold  frames  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  to  ripen  their  wood.  If 
this  is  accomplished  they  are  certain  to  flower  well. 
Justicla  flavicoma. — If  plants  have  been  cared  for  since  they 
flowered  good  cuttings  should  now  be  plentiful.  These,  if  inserted  singly 
in  thumb  povs  and  shaded  from  the  sun,  will  root  freely  under  hand- 
lights  in  a  close  warm  house.  Directly  they  are  rooted  place  them  into 
3-inch  pots,  and  when  once  established  gradually  harden  them  and  grow 
them  in  cold  frames. 
Tydseas.— Cuttings  of  such  kinds  as  Madame  Heine  should  now  be 
rooted.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  root  them  singly  in  small  pots,  and  remove 
the  lead  as  soon  as  they  are  rooted.  This  will  induce  them  to  branch 
and  make  capital  plants  in  5-inch  pots.  Cuttings  rooted  now  may  be 
stopped  twice,  and  then  allowed  to  grow.  The  latest  of  those  that  make 
underground  stems  may  be  potted  and  started  into  growth. 
Begonias.— Those  of  the  raanicata  type  that  are  well  rooted  may  be 
placed  in  5-inch  pots,  gradually  hardened,  and  placed  into  cold  frames. 
These  will  need  keeping  close  at  first,  and  shading  from  bright  sunshine. 
Other  autumn  and  winter  flowering  kinds  may  be  rooted  as  cuttings 
can  be  obtained. 
Clerodendron  Balfourianum.— Cuttings  rooted  some  time  ago, 
and  growing  freely  in  4-inch  pots,  should  be  placed  into  others  2  inches 
larger.  The  plants  should  be  trained  under  the  roof  if  practicable,  so 
that  strong  thoroughly  ripened  growth  will  be  made.  This  plant  does 
well,  and  provides  handsome  decorative  material  when  grown  as  bushes 
or  small  standards.  For  the  first  they  should  be  pinched  when  about 
6  inches  high,  and  this  should  be  practised  several  times  during  the 
season.  Those  for  dwarf  standards  may  attain  1  foot  or  more  according 
to  taste  before  they  are  pinched.  When  once  they  are  pinched  the 
treatment  should  be  the  same  as  those  required  for  bushes.  The  plants 
should  be  grown  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  if  they  are  to  flower  well 
another  season . 
w 
N. 
St 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
■  i.i  -  r--i .  i  ■  i  -  r.~  i— t  - 1 .  i  -  <  - 1  - 1  -  r-  i  -v 
THE  DROUGHT. 
The  exceptionally  fine  weather  experienced  during  the  past 
three  weeks  has  been  the  general  topic  of  conversation.  The  wind 
being  chiefly  in  the  N.E.,  a  lower  temperature  on  the  whole 
prevailed  than  would  have  been  the  case  had  it  been  in  a  south¬ 
westerly  direction,  as  even  on  the  warmest  days,  when  the  shade 
temperature  ranged  from  70°to  80°,  there  was  always  a  cold  breeze. 
Although  pleasant,  it  had  the  effect  of  drying  the  land  very  much 
and  retarding  the  growth  of  vegetation.  On  thin  soils  the  grass  has 
a  very  parched-up  appearance,  and  the  White  Clover  in  the  seed 
pastures  has  made  but  little  headway,  owing  to  being  grazed  sq 
closely  by  sheep  and  the  lack  of  moisture  at  the  root.  This  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at,  when  one  takes  into  consideration  the  amount  of 
the  rainfall  this  year. 
As  the  first  four  months  have  only  yielded  a  total  of 
3  85  inches,  as  compared  with  7  63  inches  for  the  same  time  iq 
1895,  and  as  1  inch  of  rainfall  is  about  100  tons  of  water  per 
acre,  it  will  at  once  be  seen  how  short  the  water  supply  must  be  in 
some  parts  of  the  country.  But  to-day  (22nd  May)  and  the 
previous  twenty-four  hours  nearly  half  an  inch  of  rain  has  fallen 
in  a  steady  downpour,  and  the  parched  pastures  have  already 
freshened  considerably. 
But  what  has  this  to  do  with  bee-keeping  ?  someone  may  ask. 
As  is  now  pretty  well  known  to  bee-keepers,  the  weather  is  a  great 
factor  in  honey  production,  for  without  bright,  warm  weather  it 
is  useless  to  expect  the  bees  to  collect  honey,  as  they  will  remain 
about  their  hives,  and  will  not  fly  far  from  home,  knowing  full  well 
that  the  nectar  will  not  rise  in  the  flowers  without  warmth. 
Those  bee-keepers  who  have  carried  out  previous  instructions 
will  by  this  time  have  a  fair  sample  of  honey  stored  in  supers. 
It  is  many  years  since  the  bees  have  been  favoured  with  such 
fine  weather  and  the  trees  been  so  full  of  blossom  as  this  spring. 
