512 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  4,  1896. 
has  to  be  as  it  were  tamed  down  before  any  marked  improvement,  from 
the  florists’  point  of  view,  can  be  achieved. 
On  this  point  Mr.  Horner  laid  especial  stress,  and  he  thinks  that 
new  beginners’  disappointments  in  seedling  raising  are  often  due  to  the 
selection  of  these  vigorous  seedlings  because  they  are  more  taking  than 
the  weaker  ones,  which  require  more  time  to  develop  their  germinating 
energies.  Primulacefe  are  notably  erratic  in  their  germinating  power 
generally.  A  pan  of  Auricula  seed  of  the  same  age,  sown  under  the 
same  conditions,  will  continue  to  produce  seedlings  into  the  second  year 
after  sowing.  A  general  knowledge  of  these  facts,  if  put  into  practice, 
would  no  doubt  greatly  facilitate  the  evolution  of  better  types  of  other 
flowers,  were  the  later  and  Jess  vigorous  seedlings  selected  for  cultivation. 
The  pink  seifs  alluded  to  by  Mr.  Horner  (on  page  414),  by  reason  of 
their  novelty  and  distinct  colour,  add  an  additional  charm  to  the 
collection,  their  warmer  tones  contrasting  effectively  with  the  sober 
greens  and  greys  of  the  florists’  types,  besides  giving  a  wider  range  of 
colour  to  the  somewhat  limited  one  amongst  Auriculas,  which  if 
extended  would  probably  give  an  impetus  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
plant. 
The  stages  of  two  houses  were  filled  with  plants  in  flower,  forming 
a  beautiful  exhibition,  distinct  in  character  from  the  more  gay 
occupants  of  the  ordinary  conservatory  of  the  period,  but  none  the 
less  interesting,  because  a  closer  investigation  is  needed  to  enjoy  their 
more  modest  beauty.  But  what  most  forcibly  appeals  to  our  admiration 
is  the  marvellous  evolution  of  the  flower  in  its  (nearly)  perfection  to 
the  ideal  in  proportions  and  development  of  rich  colours,  as  compared 
to  its  dingy  yellow  prototype,  thus  affording  a  greater  treat  to  the 
contemplative  mind  than  can  be  realised  out  of  the  beauty  of  most 
other  cultivated  flowers,  but  nearer  approaching  to  Nature’s  unassisted 
handiwork.  It  would  be  useless  making  a  simple  catalogue  of  names. 
Mr.  Horner’s  collection  consists  of  the  very  cream  of  other  raisers,  but 
of  course  his  own  seedlings  give  a  distinct  tone  and  character  to  the 
collection. 
In  a  discussion  with  Mr.  Horner  on  varieties  past  and  present,  out  of 
a  catalogue  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  varieties,  about  one-sixth  only 
of  that  number  was  now  considered  worthy  of  a  place  alongside  of 
more  recent  varieties  raised  by  other  growers,  and  himself.  This  fact 
speaks  eloquently  of  the  sure  and  steady  improvement  of  the  flower, 
and  should  be  a  warning  to  new  beginners  in  the  selection  of  varieties  if 
they  are  ambitious  to  try  their  strength  on  the  exhibition  table.  In 
drawing  these  remarks  to  a  conclusion  much  that  is  interesting  in  Mr. 
Horner’s  garden  must  perforce  remain  at  present  unwritten,  at  the  same 
time  we  feel  that  any  written  description  of  it  and  its  contents  must  of 
necessity  fail  to  adequately  convey  anything  like  a  just  tribute  to  the 
results  of  work  which  can  only  be  the  outcome  of  the  purest  love  for  it, 
but  work  all  the  same  carrying  the  impress  of  his  own  personality  and 
genius  which  will  prove  a  standing  monument  for  generations  of  florists 
yet  to  come. — Azota. 
LATE  VINERIES. 
It  is  impossible  to  over-estimate  the  importance  in  almost  all 
establishments  of  providing  a  good  crop  of  fruit  in  the  structures  that 
come  under  the  category  of  late  vineries.  Taking  this  into  consideration, 
it  is  possible  that  a  few  notes  on  Vines  grown  especially  for  affording 
late  fruits,  and  touching  the  work  amongst  them  that  is  now  seasonable, 
may  be  of  use  and  assistance  to  some  of  the  many  readers  of  the 
Journal  of  Horticulture,  if  only  as  refreshers  of  the  memory. 
Thinning  is  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  there  must  be  no  delay  in 
carrying  out  the  operation.  Gros  Colman,  Gros  Guillaume,  and  Trebbiano 
have  the  berries  so  pronounced,  and  are  so  free-setting,  that  they  may 
have,  what  would  be  the  worst  if  left,  taken  out  and  the  thinning 
completed  whilst  they  are  in  flower.  This  secures  all  the  swelling 
possible  in  those  that  are  left,  and  the  berries  attain  to  an  enormous 
Bize  if  care  is  taken  to  leave  no  more  than  can  swell  properly.  They 
should  not  be  less  than  an  inch  asunder,  and  Gros  Colman,  also  Gros 
Guillaume,  not  large  bunches,  often  need  to  be  to  1J  inch  apart,  as 
they  have  berries  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  bunches  and  number 
on  the  Vine. 
It  is  also  a  good  practice  to  go  over  varieties  that  are  thickly  set 
with  flowers,  whilst  the  latter  are  in  the  cap  state,  and  cut  out  at  least 
one-half.  It  helps  Lady  Downe’s,  Mrs.  Pince,  and  Alnwick  Seedling  to 
set  if  the  precaution  is  taken  to  cut  out  the  flowers  that  are  weakest 
and  have  the  thinnest  footstalks  and  smallest  “  caps.”  This  may  also 
be  practised  with  varieties  that  set  many  more  berries  than  there  is 
room  for  swelling  to  full  size.  These  are  tedious  processes,  but  necessary 
in  order  to  secure  the  largest  and  most  highly  finished  berries.  The 
thinning  of  the  shy-setting  varieties  should  be  deferred  until  it  is  seen 
which  berries  are  properly  fertilised  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
swelling. 
Bunch-thinning  should  have  early  attention,  reducing  them  to  the 
number  which  their  size  and  the  condition  of  the  Vines  warrant  as 
likely  to  finish  satisfactorily.  One  pound  of  Grapes  per  foot  of  rod  is  a 
fair  crop,  but  the  distance  varies ;  therefore  1  lb.  to  every  3  feet  super¬ 
ficial  of  foliage  exposed  to  every  ray  of  sunshine  is  a  full,  but  with 
proper  feeding  not  an  overburdening  crop.  Regard,  however,  must  be 
had  to  the  variety.  Muscat  of  Alexandria  will  not  produce  anything 
like  the  same  weight  of  Grapes  as  Gros  Colman  on  an  equal  spread  of 
Vine.  To  get  quality  the  Vines  must  not  be  overcropped,  for  such 
never  finish  the  Grapes  well,  and  the  latter  keep  very  indifferently. 
Late  Vines  are  gross  feeders,  and  require  abundant  supplies  of  water, 
with  liquid  manure  or  surface  dressing  washed  in  to  carry  full  crops  to 
perfection.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  overwater  inside  borders  that  are  well 
drained.  A  4-gallon  watering  potful  per  square  yard  once  a  week  will 
be  necessary  in  bright  weather  where  the  Vines  have  a  good  run  of 
border,  and  twice  as  much  where  the  root  space  is  limited  to  a  small 
area.  Outside  borders  must  not  be  neglected  for  watering,  feeding,  and 
mulching ;  the  latter  will  help  to  enrich  the  soil,  and  retain  the  moisture 
of  the  border. 
If  the  weather  is  cold  fires  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  Vines  in 
steady  progress.  All  late  Grapes,  except  late  Hamburghs,  thrive  best  in 
a  high  temperature  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  The  thing  is 
to  admit  a  little  air  early  in  the  day,  and  a  chink  at  the  top  of  the  house 
constantly,  increasing  the  ventilation  with  the  temperature,  yet  getting 
85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat  through  the  day,  and  before  the  temperature 
declines  to  80°  closing  the  house  and  damping  every  available  surface, 
repeating  this  before  nightfall.  Admit  a  little  air  to  allow  the  vitiated 
atmosphere  to  change,  employing  fire  heat  to  maintain  a  night  tempera¬ 
ture  of  60°  to  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day. 
In  regulating  the  growth  allow  as  much  foliage  as  can  have  full 
exposure  to  light,  but  all  of  it  should  not  be  made  at  once  ;  that  is,  do 
not  allow  the  laterals  or  extensions  to  advance  to  the  limits  before  curtail¬ 
ing  them,  for  to  do  so,  and  then  have  the  sub-laterals  springing  from 
every  leaf  base,  means  an  excess  of  foliage  that  is  not  beneficial,  but 
harmful.  Leave  a  little  room  for  lateral  extension,  as  this  causes  fresh 
roots  to  be  made,  and  keeps  up  that  activity  so  essential  for  the  perfect¬ 
ing  of  the  crops. — Old  Hand. 
FORGET-ME-NOTS  FOR  SPRING  GARDENING. 
Very  common  is  it  for  cultivators  and  admiring  on-lookers  to 
descant  on  the  merits  of  these  charming  spring  flowers  when  the  beds 
and  borders  are  made  gay  with  them  in  their  blooming  period.  When 
it  iB  seen  how  effective  they  are  many  owners  of  gardens  who  have  them 
not  decide  upon  procuring  them.  That  is  one  period  when  we  hear 
much  of  the  merits  of  Forget-me-nots,  and  the  next  period  is  in  the 
autumn  when  summer  flowers  are  wanin  q  and  when  something  must  be 
found  to  take  their  place.  But  between  these  two  periods  these 
beautiful  hardy  spring  flowers  are  seldom  noticed  ;  probably  because 
summer  flowers  then  absorb  attention.  Yet  the  period  when  Forget-me- 
nots  are  not  to  be  seen — just  after  they  have  done  their  work  and  the 
plants  are  removed  from  the  beds — is  the  most  important  of  all  times 
at  which  to  direct  attention  to  the  usefulness  of  this  attractive  family 
of  plants. 
To  enjoy  them  in  fullest  beauty  in  the  early  months  of  spring  we 
must  commence  our  preparations  at  midsummer.  Because  this  is  a 
busy  period  attention  to  these  plants  is  too  often  postponed — prepara¬ 
tions  are  commenced  too  late,  and  the  plants  are  small  in  the  autumn, 
and  the  bloom  in  the  beds  in  the  spring  both  late  and  unsatisfying. 
If  the  seed  is  sown  late  the  bloom  is  both  late  and  weakly,  and  this 
is  the  position  of,  perhaps,  nine-tenths  of  those  who  attempt  to  grow 
Forget-me-nots.  Even  in  gardens  where  spring  flowers  are  really 
desired  and  are  specially  welcomed,  the  practice  is  common  to  dib-in 
small  plants  from  seed  which  had  been  sown  late,  and  which  is  not 
doing  justice  to  the  plants  themselves,  and  is  also  calculated  to  bring 
spring  gardening  into  disrepute. 
The  few  who  grow  these  plants  in  the  finest  perfection  in  the  spring 
are  at  the  present  time  sowing  the  seed  or  dividing  the  plants.  It  is 
only  by  sowing  the  seed  now  that  good  plants  can  be  had  in  the 
autumn  of  a  size  sufficient  to  produce  an  early  and  a  fine  display  in  the 
spring.  Instead  of  the  small  seedlings  which  are  set  with  the  dibber 
we  must  have  dense  stocky  plants  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  which  will 
take  up  with  a  ball  that  can  hsrdly  be  crammed  into  a  5-inch  pot. 
Those  are  the  plants  to  satisfy  either  for  indoor  or  outdoor  decoration. 
It  is  impossible  to  have  them  by  the  too  common  mode  of  seed-sowing 
in  August.  Such  plants  can  be  had  by  sowing  the  seed  at  the  present 
time. 
Take,  for  instance,  the  Myosotis  dissitifloia,  and  what  have  we  more 
attractive  for  indoor  decoration  in  February  and  March,  and  for  garden 
decoration  in  April  and  May,  than  well  grown  plants  of  this  fine  Forget- 
me-not  ?  Hardly  anything  can  be  more  charming  ;  but  late  sown  and 
weakly  grown  plants  are  always  disappointing.  Whether  M.  arvensis, 
M.  sylvatica,  with  their  white  varieties  are  used,  or  the  best  of  all  the 
blues,  M.  dissitiflora,  the  seed  must  be  sown  at  the  present  time.  A 
moist  shady  border  is  the  best  place  where  to  sow  the  seed  and  also  to 
prick  out  the  piants  to  grow  until  they  are  required  for  the  beds. 
A  portion  of  these  plants  if  potted  and  placed  in  a  light  green¬ 
house  will  make  a  beautiful  display  in  the  early  days  of  spring.  Plants 
which  have  bloomed  may  also  be  cut  down  and  divided.  If  in  a 
moist  place  they  grow  rapidly,  and  should  be  again  divided  towards 
the  autumn,  for  very  large  plants  do  not  flower  well,  as  the  central 
crowns  are  apt  to  be  weak.  But  whether  by  root  division  or  by  seed, 
it  is  an  easy  matter  for  all  who  choose  to  do  so  to  have  a  supply  of 
these  charming  spring  flowering  plants  in  the  best  condition,  provided 
the  work  of  preparation  is  commenced  at  once. 
Seed-sowing  in  June,  a  cool  place  for  growth  in  the  summer,  with 
room  for  each  plant  to  develop  itself  and  an  abundance  of  water  at  all 
times,  and  especially  as  the  flowering  period  approaches,  are  the 
principal  requirements  to  have  Forget-me-nots  in  perfection.  — 
J.  Clapham. 
