524 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  4,  1896. 
basal  buds,  and  admit  air  and  light  to  the  racemes  of  fruit  now  swelling 
freely.  Mulch  the  soil  over  the  roots  with  manure,  and  afford  several 
good  soakings  of  water  or  liquid  manure.  The  leading  shoot  of  each 
branch  ought  not  to  be  shortened.  Black  Currants  require  no  pruning 
at  the  present  time.  Rich  nourishment,  consisting  of  liquid  manure, 
will  greatly  assist  the  perfecting  of  the  crop  of  fruit,  also  promote  the 
production  of  strong  young  shoots  for  the  next  season’s  fruiting. 
Plums  and  Cherries. — Wherever  there  is  room  to  train  in  a 
vigorous  shoot  lay  such  in  the  proper  direction.  Superfluous  and  ill- 
placed  shoots  cut  out  entirely.  Foreright  shoots  may  be  shortened  to 
form  spurs,  leaving  three  good  leaves.  Attend  well  to  the  training  of 
young  trees,  so  as  to  lay  a  neat,  firm  foundation  of  branches.  A  con¬ 
siderable  amount  of  regulation  will  be  required  where  the  growth  is 
strong,  in  order  that  the  strength  of  the  branches  may  be  equalised. 
Trees  growing  weakly  receive  some  impetus  to  growth  if  the  soil  is 
moistened  and  enriched  with  a  little  liquid  manure.  Daily  syringingB 
in  fine  weather  promote  freedom  from  insect  pests,  which  always  check 
growth. 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Apricots. — Cold,  cutting  east  winds 
are  very  trying  to  these  trees  on  walls,  should  they  happen  to  be  growing 
in  a  more  than  usually  exposed  angle,  where  the  force  of  the  wind  catches 
them.  It  is  the  main  cause  of  blistered  leaves  as  well  as  attacks  of 
aphides,  which  follow  as  a  result  of  checks  to  growth.  In  such  situations 
some  means  should  be  afforded  to  provide  a  permanent  screen  or  break 
from  the  cold  winds,  but  it  is  really  best  to  plant  on  a  full  south-west 
aspect. 
In  thinning  out  the  young  growths  remove  those  which  are  the  worst 
affected  if  possible.  Pinch  off  blistered  leaves  which  cannot  prove  of 
further  service.  Cleanse  the  points  of  shoots  overrun  with  aphides. 
The  Buccessional  growths  must  be  carefully  trained  in  selecting  those 
from  the  base  of  the  present  fruiting  shoot.  Young  growth  above  the 
fruit  must  be  allowed  to  attract  sap  to  the  fruit,  the  extension  of  the 
leader  effectually  doing  this,  but  before  the  shoot  lengthens  too  far  pinch 
it  at  the  third  leaf,  and  the  lateral  growth  resulting  at  the  first  leaf. 
Shoots  that  cannot  be  laid  in  easily  as  successionals  or  to  fill  vacancies 
will  be  better  cut  out  entirely,  though  a  moderate  number  may  be 
pinched  at  the  third  leaf  to  form  spurs. 
Thin  the  fruit  gradually,  leaving  more  on  the  strong  and  vigorous 
parts  of  trees  than  on  the  weaker.  The  final  thinning  may  be  completed 
as  the  fruits  attain  to  the  size  of  Walnuts ;  just  at  this  period  the 
stoning  process  commences. 
Apples  and  Pears. — Apples  have  set  freely,  and  promise  to  be  a 
good  crop,  but  thinning  the  fruit  is  highly  desirable  on  bushes  and  low 
standards.  The  same  applies  to  Pears  where  the  fruits  are  numerous. 
The  weakest  fruits  in  a  cluster  ought  first  to  be  removed,  those  taking 
a  lead  in  swelling  being  reserved,  finally  reducing  to  one  or  two  on  a 
spur.  Thin  youDg  shoots  if  crowded.  It  is  better  to  remove  them  now 
than  that  they  should  obstruct  the  light  from  others. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  House. — As  soon  as  the  Grapes  are  cleared  from  the 
Vines  give  the  inside  borders  a  thorough  supply  of  water  and  nourish¬ 
ment.  This  will  encourage  the  root  action  so  essential  to  the  activity  of 
the  laterals,  which,  if  allowed  moderate  extension,  is  the  best  preventive 
of  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage,  while  it  helps  to  plump  the 
buds,  and  to  store  assimilated  matter  in  the  adjacent  wood.  Syringe 
thoroughly  to  cleanse  the  foliage  of  dirt  and  insects,  and  repeat 
occasionally  or  as  found  necessary  to  keep  the  old  or  main  leaves 
healthy.  Keep  the  ventilators  open  constantly,  except  in  very  cold 
weather,  and  even  then  some  ventilation  is  advisable.  Fresh  laterals  will 
soon  be  produced,  and  it  is  desirable  to  maintain  an  even  growth  all 
over  the  Vines.  The  mulching  or  covering  on  outside  borders  having 
been  removed,  with  just  sufficient  of  the  lighter  part  left  to  protect 
the  roots,  a  good  watering  with  liquid  manure  or  water,  following 
with  a  top-dressing  of  some  fertiliser  to  be  washed  in,  should  no 
rain  fall. 
Second  Early  Hotise. — VineB  started  at  the  new  year  have  the  Grapes 
ripe  where  the  crops  are  not  more  than  can  be  finished  satisfactorily. 
Black  Hamburgh  has  done  singularly  well,  the  berries  being  large  and 
black  as  jet,  with  a  fine  bloom.  Buckland  Sweetwater  has  also  done 
capitally,  the  rich  golden  amber  contrasting  finely  with  the  Black 
Hamburgh.  Where  the  Vines  are  heavily  cropped  and  have  been  forced 
for  the  first  time  the  GrapeB  are  not  yet  finished.  If  there  is  likely  to 
be  any  want  of  this  allow  the  Vines  time  by  giving  as  long  a  rest  at  night 
as  possible.  Maintain,  however,  a  circulation  of  warm,  rather  dry  air 
constantly,  increasing  the  ventilation  early.  Damping  the  floors  on  hot 
days  will  check  excessive  evaporation,  and  with  the  temperature  falling 
to  60°  at  night  and  65°  when  warm,  with  sufficient  warmth  in  the  pipes 
to  prevent  moisture  condensing,  no  harm  will  ensue,  but  the  day  tempera¬ 
ture  should  be  kept  at  70°  to  75°.  If  found  necessary  give  the  border  a 
thorough  soaking  in  the  morning  of  a  fine  day,  and  afterwards  mulch 
with  a  little  light  material.  This  will  probably  be  sufficient  to  keep  the 
border  moist  until  the  Grapes  are  cut,  if  not  it  must  be  repeated. 
Moderate  moisture,  even  after  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  is  essential  to  the 
health  of  the  foliage.  To  prevent  the  colour  being  taken  out  of 
Hamburghs  a  double  thickness  of  herring  nets  Bbould  be  drawn  over  the 
roof  lights.  When  ripe  a  minimum  temperature  of  60°  will  be  sufficient. 
Allow  a  moderate  extension  of  the  laterals  to  encourage  root  action,  but 
keep  gross  laterals  well  in  check  so  as  to  cause  an  equal  distribution  of 
the  sap. 
Early  Muscat  Houses.— The  fruit  of  Vines  started  early  in  January 
is  colouring,  and  a  somewhat  drier  condition  of  the  atmosphere  is 
advisable  as  compared  with  Black  Hamburgh  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
must  have  time  to  ripen  and  acquire  the  rich  golden  colour  so  much 
prized.  The  Muscats,  however,  are  gross  feeders,  and  cannot  endure 
deficiency  of  moisture  at  the  roots  or  lack  of  nourishment.  Provide  a 
circulation  of  air  constantly,  preventing  the  moisture  condensing  on 
the  berries  by  sufficient  warmth  in  the  pipes  to  insure  a  changing 
atmosphere.  Lateral  extension  is  the  best  safeguard  against  shanking 
at  this  stage,  along  with  a  steadv  temperature.  Keep  the  night 
temperature  at  65°  to  70°,  80°  to  85°  by  day  with  a  little  sun,  and  90° 
to  95°  with  it  in  full  force.  Ventilate  early,  and  regulate  by  the  sun’s 
increase,  and  so  with  its  decline,  reduce  early,  securing  as  long  a  day  of 
ripening  from  sun  heat  as  possible.  The  old  leaves  of  early  started 
Muscats  are  liable  to  be  scorched  under  powerful  sun,  as  also  are  the 
berries  at  the  upper  side  of  the  bunches.  It  is  advisable  to  draw  a 
single  thickness  of  tanned  net  over  the  roof  lights,  which,  without 
impeding  too  much  light,  will  prevent  injury  to  the  foliage  and  fruit. 
Midseason  Houses. — Vines  in  these  will  be  in  various  stages  of 
development,  according  to  the  time  of  starting.  Those  that  have  stoned 
will  be  swelling  the  berrieB  fast,  and  the  borders  should  have  the  needful 
supplies  of  water  and  nourishment.  The  drainage  being  good,  the 
watering,  whether  with  water  or  liquid  manure,  will  need  to  be  continued 
weekly  if  the  border  is  limited  to  a  small  area,  or  fortnightly  intervals 
until  the  Grapes  are  somewhat  advanced  in  colouring,  when  it  must  be 
stopped  ;  yet  the  border  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  so  dry  as  to 
affect  the  foliage  injuriously.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  apex, 
and  ventilate  freely  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  closing  early  with  sun 
heat  and  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere.  Fire  heat  will  be 
necessary  to  secure  G0°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  keeping 
through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°,  and  closing  sufficiently  early  to  rise 
to  90°  or  95°.  This  will  insure  the  berries  swelling  to  a  good  size,  and 
with  a  free  circulation  of  air  a  good  finish  may  be  secured. 
Newly  Planted  Vines. — Every  encouragement  should  be  given  these 
to  make  a  sturdy  growth.  The  borders  will  need  copious  supplies  of 
water,  yet  there  must  be  no  excess.  A  light  mulching  around  the  stems 
will  encourage  roots  from  the  collar.  Syringe  on  fine  afternoons  and 
close  early.  Let  the  canes  extend  to  a  length  of  9  or  10  feet  before 
stopping,  then  continue  a  growth  from  the  extremity,  and  let  it  grow 
with  whatever  laterals  it  may  until  September,  then  shorten  them  by 
degrees  so  as  to  have  them  entirely  removed  by  the  time  the  principal 
leaves  are  maturing.  Pinch  the  laterals  up  to  the  extent  of  stopping 
the  cane  at  the  first  leaf,  and  let  the  sub-laterals  extend,  but  keep  them 
clear  of  the  principal  leaves,  and  treat  them  as  advised  for  those  on  the 
cane  above  the  stopping.  This  growth  will  cause  the  stem  to  thicken 
and  form  free  channels,  through  which  the  sap  can  be  rapidly  trans¬ 
mitted.  Cut  the  cane  down  to  three  good  buds  from  the  bottom  wire  of 
the  trellis  at  the  winter  pruning,  and  then  the  Vines  will  push  sturdy 
growth  the  following  year.  Supernumeraries  should  have  the  laterals 
pinchei  to  one  leaf  as  produced,  and  the  primary  at  6  to  9  feet.  The 
laterals  issuing  from  the  extremity  should  be  pinched  to  one  or  two 
leaves  each  time  those  are  made.  All  this  cane  requires  is  cutting  off 
the  laterals  in  September,  and  shortening  to  the  first  plump  bud 
below  the  stopping.  The  laterals  must  not  be  cut  off  close  to  the  cane 
until  growth  has  ceased,  and  the  principal  leaves  should  be  left  on  the 
cane  as  long  as  possible. 
Cucumbers. — When  the  night  temperature  can  be  prevented  falling 
below  65°  artificial  heat  may  be  dispensed  with,  making  the  most  of  sun 
heat  by  early  closing.  Look  over  the  plants  twice  a  week,  well  thinning 
out  the  old  growths,  and  training  in  young  in  order  to  maintain  an 
unbroken  succession  of  fruit.  Supply  liquid  manure  twice  a  week,  and 
afford  top-dressings  of  rich  material  occasionally.  Syringe  only  in  the 
afternoon,  but  damp  in  the  morning  and  through  the  day,  so  as  to  main¬ 
tain  a  good  moisture  in  the  house.  With  the  ends  of  the  houses  north 
and  south  a  slight  shade  becomes  necessary,  as  from  4  to  5.30  in  the 
afternoon  there  is  danger  of  the  foliage  being  scorched.  Pits  and  frames 
should  be  closed  at  3  to  4  p.m.,  assisting  plants  in  bearing  with  liquid 
manure,  but  keeping  it  from  the  foliage. 
Where  plants  are  enfeebled  by  bearing  top-dress  with  lumpy  loam, 
and  layer  some  of  the  younger  growths  at  a  joint,  from  which  roots  will 
be  emitted,  and  strengthen  the  succeeding  growths.  Attend  to  the 
ventilation  early  so  as  not  to  let  the  sun  act  on  the  foliage  whilst  it  is 
wet  bo  as  to  scorch,  nor  let  the  temperature  rise  to  a  high  degree,  and 
then  admit  a  quantity  of  air  and  produce  a  chill,  which  causes  stunted 
fruits,  many  of  which  turn  yellow  at  the  ends  instead  of  swelling. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Planting  Newly  Cleared  Beds. — Wallflowers,  Forget-me-nots, 
Saponarias,  Silenes,  and  such  like  greatly  impoverish  the  ground,  and 
when  they  are  cleared  off,  the  beds  are  usually  in  a  very  dry  state.  Zonal 
Pelargoniums,  Petunias,  Marguerites,  and  Tropoeolums  if  planted  some¬ 
what  thickly  will  succeed  fairly  well  on  poor  dry  ground,  but  the 
majority  of  summer  bedding  plants  present  a  much-starved  appearance 
unless  more  liberally  treated  at  the  roots.  Newly  cleared  beds  then 
ought  to  have  a  good  dressing  of  short  manure  well  mixed  with  the  top 
spit,  and  if  dry  and  hard  water  should  be  freely  applied  in  the  evening 
previous  to  the  day  of  planting.  Thus  treated  the  soil  will  break  down 
finely,  and  the  planting  can  then  be  done  properly  and  quickly;  Solid 
manure  is  preferable  to  any  kind  of  special  or  liquid  manure,  as  it 
serves  to  retain  moisture  longer  in  the  bed,  but  if  not  available,  either 
of  the  latter  should  be  applied,  and  in  the  course  of  about  a  fortnight  a 
