Juno  ll,  1896, 
549 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
temperature  at  60°  to  65°  artificially,  and  a  free  circulation  of  air 
allowed  between  70°  and  75°,  having  it  full  when  the  latter  is  reached, 
and  close  at  75°  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  If  the  tempera¬ 
ture  rise  to  80°  or  85°  or  even  90°  it  will  not  do  any  harm,  but  admit  a 
little  air  in  the  evening  bo  as  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to  escape 
and  the  temperature  to  gradually  cool  through  the  night.  Increase  the 
ventilation  with  the  advancing  heat  from  65°,  not  pinchiDg  for  air  in 
the  early  part  ot  the  day. 
Late  Houses. — If  it  is  desired  to  retard  the  fruit  in  any  of  these,  so 
as  to  prolong  the  Beason  of  supply,  it  is  best  effected  by  freer  ventilation 
during  the  day,  and  continuing  it  at  night  when  mild.  Indeed,  there 
is  only  need  to  ventilate  day  and  night  to  keep  back  the  crop,  so  as  to 
ripen  about  the  same  time,  as  that  usually  occurs  with  trees  against 
walls,  and  by  judicious  ventilation  the  fruit  may  be  had  over  a  more 
lengthened  period.  , 
It  is  necessary  not  to  overburden  the  trees  with  more  fruit  in  the 
early  stages  of  growth  than  can  remain  for  the  crop,  and  a  moderate 
crop  of  large,  highly  coloured  fruit  is  always  better  than  a  heavy  crop  of 
small  fruit;  therefore  thin  well,  leaving  a  few  more  than  will  be  required 
ultimately.  Keep  the  trees  well  syringed,  and  mulch  lightly,  thereby 
encouraging  the  roots  to  the  moist  surface,  giving  thorough  applications 
of  water  when  necessary,  and  if  the  trees  are  weak  or  heavily  burdened 
with  fruit  afford  liquid  manure  or  top-dressings  of  artificially  com¬ 
pounded  fertilisers  washed  in. 
Tigs.— Early  Forced  Trees. — Generous  treatment  is  needed  after  the 
first  crops  are  gathered  to  enable  the  trees  to  swell  the  second  crop, 
which  should  be  thinned  before  the  fruit  is  the  size  of  Walnuts,  and  in 
thinning  reserve  the  largest  fruits  at  the  base  of  the  shoots.  Syringe 
twice  a  day  to  keep  red  spider  in  check,  and  afford  liquid  manure  when 
watering  is  necessary.  Trees  in  pots  require  it  daily,  sometimes  twice  a 
day,  and  those  in  borders  once  or  twice  a  week,  according  to  the  extent 
of  the  rooting  area.  Mulch  trees  in  pots  with  rich  material,  also  those 
in  borders,  lumpy  loam  and  manure  answering  admirably,  especially 
when  sprinkled  occasionally  with  a  mixture  of  three  parts  bone  super¬ 
phosphate,  two  parts  powdered  nitrate  of  potash,  and  one  part  ground 
gypsum  mixed,  about  3  ozs.  per  square  yard  being  supplied  eveiy 
fortnight  or  three  weeks. 
Succession  Houses  — When  the  fruit  commences  ripening  a  free 
circulation  of  warm  dry  air  should  be  afEorded,  which  is  essential  to 
high  quality,  not  less  so  being  the  tying-in  and  regulating  of  the 
shoots  by  thinning  and  stopping,  so  as  to  afford  the  fruit  the  benefit 
of  all  the  light  and  air  possible.  The  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  will 
need  to  be  moderated,  not  wetting  the  fruit,  though  if  red  spider  prove 
troublesome  the  fruit  should  be  gathered  closely  and  a  good  syringing 
given,  which  will  not  injure  the  remaining  fruit,  provided  it  is  done 
early  on  a  fine  day,  so  that  the  moisture  does  not  remain  long  on  the 
fruit.  Do  not  allow  any  lack  of  water  at  the  roots,  yet  give  less  supplies 
than  when  the  fruits  are  swelling. 
Young  Trees  in  Pots  for  Next  Year's  Early  Forcing. — The  trees 
must  have  all  the  light  possible,  and  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as  practi¬ 
cable — that  is,  as  high  as  may  be  without  touching,  so  as  to  secure  sturdy 
growth,  well-ripened  wood,  kept  perfectly  clean  by  syringing,  and  well 
stored  with  nutrient  matter  by  judicious  applications  of  liquid  manure 
or  top-dressing  of  fertilisers,  especially  those  of  a  phosphitic  nature. 
Stopping  must  not  be  longer  practised,  for  it  is  from  the  well- 
matured  points  of  the  current  year’s  shoots  that  next  year’s  first  crop 
fruits  are  borne,  and  this  first  crop  is  of  greatest  consequence  in  very 
early  forced  Fig  trees.  If  there  be  any  neglect  in  the  preparation  of 
the  trees  disappointment  is  inevitable.  The  growth  being  completed 
they  may  be  stood  outdoors  to  induce  rest,  but  the  wood  must  be  well 
ripened  previously,  and  to  be  of  use  for  early  forcing  it  must  be  matured 
early. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Carrots  — Where  these  have  come  up  irregularly,  open  drills  between 
the  patches,  water  if  at  all  dry,  and  sow  more  seeds,  preferably  of  one  of 
the  larger  Horn  varieties.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  sow  more  Carrot  seed 
with  a  view  to  having  abundance  of  tender  young  roots  in  the  autumn. 
Nantes  Horn  is  one  of  the  best  varieties  for  the  purpose,  but  the  Inter¬ 
mediate  forms  may  also  be  Bown.  Thin  advancing  crops  lightly  before 
the  plants  are  large,  as  in  a  small  state  they  draw  easily,  whether 
the  ground  is  moist  or  dry.  Horn  varieties  may  eventually  be  left 
4  inches  apart,  and  the  larger  varieties  from  6  to  8  inches.  Stir  between 
the  rows  frequently  with  the  Dutch  hoe,  this  keeping  down  weeds  and 
preventing  a  rapid  loss  of  moisture  and  cracking. 
Cabbage. — Coleworts  or  small  quick-hearting  Cabbages  are  usually 
fully  appreciated  after  the  summer  vegetables  are  over.  Sow  seeds  now, 
moistening  the  ground  with  liquid  manure  prior  to  sowing,  favouring  an 
early  strong  growth  of  plant.  The  Rosette  is  one  of  the  best  varieties 
for  present  sowing,  but  any  of  the  small  varieties  are  also  suitable, 
planting  them  out  12  inches  apart  each  way. 
Celery. — The  long  spell  of  hot  dry  weather  has  greatly  delayed 
gardening  operations,  and  the  Celery  in  many  instances  has  been 
weakened  by  being  kept  too  long  in  boxes  and  frames.  When  they 
touch  each  other  planting  ought  to  take  place,  not  waiting  for  rain. 
The  trenches  should  be  well  prepared  in  advance,  especially  if  the 
ground  is  of  a  heavy  binding  nature,  and  then  if  the  lumps  and  soil 
generally  are  liberally  watered  overnight  they  will  crumble  down  finely 
the  following  morning,  planting  out  taking  place  in  the  afternoon  ;  also 
well  soak  the  soil  about  the  roots  of  the  plants  prior  to  moving.  Remove 
all  suckers  and  quite  small  leaves,  and  replant  firmly.  Give  a  good 
watering  the  same  evening,  and  if  the  next  day  promises  to  be  hot  and 
bright  shade  lightly  by  laying  tree  branches  or  even  Pea  stakes  over 
them.  During  hot  weather  sprinkle  every  evening,  and  afford  a  fairly 
heavy  watering  as  often  as  the  soil  about  the  roots  approaches  dryness. 
Later  plants  to  be  pricked  out  on  shallow  beds  of  manure  made  firm 
with  a  surfacing  of  fine  soil  added,  and  if  these  are  disposed  on  a  hard 
bottom  the  plants  will  move  well. 
Celerlac. — It  is  only  the  Turnip-like  roots  of  Celeriac  that  are  used, 
and  these  form  the  most  satisfactorily  when  the  plants  are  put  out  on 
the  surface  of  freely  manured  firm  ground,  or  they  may  be  planted  in 
succession  to  early  Cauliflower.  In  this  case  manure  would  have  been 
freely  dug  in  for  the  Cauliflower,  and  enough  will  be  left  for  the  Celeriac. 
Hoe  and  clean  the  ground.  Move  the  plants  with  a  good  ball  of  soil 
about  the  roots,  and  dispose  them  from  12  to  15  inches  asunder  in  rows 
18  inches  apart.  Keep  well  supplied  with  water,  and  hoe  amung  the 
plants  occasionally. 
leeks. — Those  wanted  extra  fine  should  be  planted  in  trenches 
prepared  as  for  Celery,  and  be  as  carefully  moved.  For  ordinary 
purposes  they  can  be  grown  with  far  less  trouble  on  cool  borders  in 
succession  to  Savoys  or  Broccoli.  Dress  liberally  with  manure,  and  dig 
this  in  the  depth  of  the  spade.  After  the  ground  has  been  made 
moderately  firm  and  level,  or  directly  the  plants  are  10  inches,  proceed 
with  the  planting. 
Onions.— These  ought  to  have  been  thinned  out,  but  in  many 
instances  have  been  left  till  the  rain  made  the  operation  easier.  Four 
inches  apart  is  enough  space  when  the  rows  are  12  inches  asunder. 
Transplanted  Onions  are  at  a  great  disadvantage  this  season.  These 
ought  to  be  hoed,  watered,  and  then  mulched  with  short  manure,  leaf 
soil,  or  ashes.  Those  who  water  their  beds  should  loosen  the  surface 
and  mulch,  or  otherwise  the  ground  is  liable  to  become  chilled,  and  will 
bind  and  crack  badly.  Pinch  out  the  flower  heads  of  the  autumn-sown 
Onions,  and  these  will  then  form  small  yet  serviceable  bulbs. 
Tomatoes.— The  second  week  in  June  is  early  enough  to  plant 
these  in  the  open.  Give  the  plants  as  much  solid  manure  as  is  usually 
thought  necessary  for  Potatoes,  and  a  light  surfacing  of  lime  will  also 
act  beneficially.  Plant  in  sunny,  sheltered  plots  or  borders,  15  to 
18  inches  apart,  in  rows  3  feet  asunder,  and  place  a  stake  to  each. 
Single  plants  may  also  be  dotted  among  early  Potatoes.  Those  against 
walls  and  sunny  fences  should  have  the  benefit  of  some  fresh  soil  and 
manure.  These  may  be  put  out  15  inches  apart,  or  be  allowed  double 
that  space,  and  have  a  side  growth  laid  in.  All  should  be  kept  moist  at 
the  roots,  and  be  early  mulched  with  strawy  manure. 
1 (® 
an  -r:'i  .'r.-r-.-iv-rr',  .-r.-rr-r -  i  -  i~L  -i-.  -  r- .  -  j  •  l  - 1?_| 
Hfc)  BKE  KEDPER. 
■  .  -  1  i  -V-  !  -  i  -  |  -'|  ■  1  .  1  1  ■  1  -r-  I'.rv-ri'r.  i  -  1  ■  1  -  i  -  l~-  I1  -'/I 
h 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Every  day  at  this  s 3ason  will  bring  its  work  in  an  apiary  where 
there  are  a  number  of  stocks,  and  if  attended  to  will  in  due 
course  amply  repay  the  bee-keeper  for  the  labour  bestowed  on 
them.  The  whole  secret  of  success  in  bee-keeping  lies  in  doing 
the  right  thing  at  the  right  time,  but  from  my  experience  of  bee¬ 
keepers  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  I  am  inclined  to  think  they 
do  not  lay  sufficient  stress  on  this  point.  The  work  that  ought  to 
be  done  to-day  is  through  various  causes  put  off  to  a  more  con¬ 
venient  season  ;  it  may  be  for  a  day  or  two,  or  worse  still  for  a 
week  or  more.  I  fear  we  all  have  a  failing  in  this  direction,  but 
this  putting  off  makes  all  the  difference  between  success  and 
failure  in  bee-keeping. 
More  particularly  is  this  to  be  observed  at  this  season  than  any 
other.  It  may  be  that  numerous  stocks  require  supering,  in  others 
more  room  in  the  brood  chamber,  or  those  that  have  already  been 
supered  may  require  an  additional  crate  of  sections  or  shallow 
frames  where  the  latter  are  being  used,  a  postponement  of  which 
may  prove  fatal  to  the  prospect  of  obtaining  a  surplus  from  them. 
When  bees  become  crowded  in  their  hive,  and  sufficient  room  is 
not  provided  for  them,  they  at  once  make  preparations  for 
swarming  by  starting  queen  cells,  and  when  once  they  have  the 
swarming  mania  it  is  very  difficult  to  prevent  them.  The  queen 
cells  may  be  destroyed  and  ample  room  provided  for  them,  but  the 
first  bright  day  off  they  will  come  again.  Hence  the  complaint  one 
so  often  hears  of  bees  swarming  incessantly,  with  the  natural  result, 
a  poor  honey  harvest. 
One  may  quite  innocently,  when  one’3  bees  are  kept  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  some  of  the  races  of  foreign  bees,  have  a  strain 
of  bees  that  will  prove  inveterate  s warmers.  These  are  usually 
hybrids,  and  are  generally  good  workers,  but  it  is  bo  annoying  at 
the  time  one  imagines  all  are  in  good  working  order  to  find  first  one 
stock  and  then  another  swarming.  For  this  reason  I  have  for 
several  years  past  made  a  point  of  only  keeping  our  native  black 
or  brown  bees  as  true  as  it  is  now  possible  to  obtain  them,  and,  by 
working  on  the  lines  I  advocate,  find  it  is  possible  to  keep  a  great 
number  of  colonies  fully  at  work  throughout  the  season  without 
the  appearance  of  a  solitary  swarm.  Those  who  have  been  troubled 
