Jiiae  i3,  i8«e. 
JOURNAL  dP  HORTI CUL TURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Train  them  to  the  wall  or  fence  as  straight  as  possible,  and  leave  them 
unstopped.  A  simple  method  of  training  at  the  present  time  consists  in 
laying  them  in  the  required  direction,  securing  by  placing  pliable  twigs 
across  them,  the  ends  of  which  may  be  held  fast  underneath  the  adjoin¬ 
ing  branches.  The  leading  shoots  of  bearing  wood — that  is,  shoots  with 
fruit  on  them,  must  be  stopped  at  the  third  good  leaf.  If  allowed  to 
extend  indefinitely  they  take  the  vigour  which  ought  to  be  concentrated 
on  the  fruit.  It  is  necessary,  however,  to  have  some  leaves  above  the 
fruit  in  order  to  attract  the  sap ;  but  the  number  stated  is  sufficient. 
Lateral  growth  which  follows  the  shortening  subdue  at  the  first  leaf. 
Train  in  a  fair  quantity  of  the  young  growths  of  Plums  and  Cherries, 
treating  the  Kentish  or  Morello  section  like  Peaches,  relying  chiefly  on 
the  present  season’s  growth  for  next  year’s  bearing. 
Thinning-  Fruit. — All  stone  fruits  may  be  thinned  finally  now, 
judging  what  the  trees  will  carry  according  to  their  age  and  condition. 
With  vigorous  and  luxuriant  trees  an  extra  number  of  fruits  has  a 
tendency  to  subdue  the  production  of  gross  growths  ;  but  weakly  trees 
should  have  less  than  the  average  number.  The  same  remarks  apply  to 
the  branches  when  they  vary  in  strength  One  to  three  fruits  to  a 
square  foot  is  enough  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Apricots  may  be 
thinned  to  5  or  6  inches  apart.  Plums  and  Cherries  do  not  require 
much  thinning  ;  but  all  fruits  that  seem  behindhand  in  swelling  may 
be  removed  with  advantage.  Pears  and  Apples  are  swelling  freely,  and 
those  fruits  that  are  to  remain  for  a  crop  will  be  much  benefited  if  small 
and  deformed  fruits  are  at  once  cut  away,  leaving  three  or  less  of  the 
best  to  a  spur. 
Gooseberries  and  Currants. — Gooseberries  and  Red  and  White 
Currants  on  walls  or  trellises  may  now  be  summer  pruned.  Shorten  the 
side  shoots  issuing  from  the  main  branches  to  three  pairs  of  leaves.  This 
will  admit  light  and  air,  which  favour  the  concentration  of  energy  on  the 
lower  buds,  causing  the  production  of  fruitful  spurs  close  to  the 
branches.  It  will  assist  trees  bearing  heavy  crops  if  the  soil  is  well 
moistened,  borders  against  walls  invariably  being  dry  and  frequently 
deficient  in  nutriment  for  the  roots.  This  being  the  case  a  dose  of  liquid 
manure  may  follow,  or  a  liberal  mulching  of  manure,  copiously  watering 
over  this  in  order  that  some  sustenance  may  be  washed  out  and  carried 
through  the  soil. 
Outdoor  Vines. — Tie  in  and  stop  the  bearing  shoots  one  or  two 
leaves  beyond  the  bunches  of  fruit.  Fruitless  shoots  emanating  from 
spurs  stop  at  the  seventh  leaf.  Where  vacant  places  require  to  be  filled 
strong  young  growths  may  be  encouraged,  taking  out  the  points  at  a 
length  of  I  feet.  This  assists  in  plumping  up  the  buds  below,  but  allow 
a  fresh  leader  to  extend.  Outdoor  Vines  have  a  tendency  to  become 
overcrowded  if  the  growths  are  not  well  managed.  They  then  become 
useless,  and  do  not  fruit  owing  to  the  energy  running  to  waste  and  the 
wood  not  having  a  chance  to  ripen.  Reduce  the  bunches  to  one  on  a 
lateral,  leaving  the  best.  It  is  best  to  dispense  with  the  superfluous 
bunches  before  the  flowers  open.  If  delayed  until  after  berries  have  set, 
and  then  not  promptly  carried  out,  there  is  some  expenditure  of  force 
which  might  have  been  better  utilised  by  the  permanent  bunches. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — Cut-backs  started  early  and 
shifted  into  the  final  pots  in  good  time  will  have  the  growths  com¬ 
pleted,  the  canes  being  stopped  when  from  6  to  8  feet  long,  and  the 
laterals  kept  pinched  to  one  joint  as  made.  The  Vines  should  be  freely 
ventilated,  kept  thoroughly  clean,  exposed  to  every  ray  of  light,  and 
duly  but  not  excessively  supplied  with  water  and  nourishment  at  the 
roots.  The  most  desirable  varieties  for  early  forcing  are  White 
Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court. 
Canes  from  early  spring  rooted  eyes  should  be  stopped  when  from  6  to 
8  feet  long,  pinching  the  laterals  and  sub- laterals  at  one  joint  as  pro¬ 
duced.  Those  intended  for  planting  are  also  best  treated  in  a  similar 
manner,  the  object  being  to  secure  a  fibrous  root  formation  and  stout, 
well-matured  wood. 
Vines  Cleared  of  their  Crops. — Keep  the  foliage  healthy  by  occasional 
syringing,  afford  sufficient  water  or  liquid  manure  to  keep  the  soil  pro¬ 
perly  moist,  a  light  mulching  of  short  Bpent  material  preventing  the 
surface  cracking,  saving  watering,  and  enticing  the  roots  to  remain  at 
the  top  instead  of  descending  into  the  border.  Allow  a  moderate 
extension  of  the  laterals,  and  admit  air  freely  above  60°.  There  is  no 
fear  of  the  wood  not  ripening,  and  the  difficulty  is  to  prevent  over- 
ripening  or  premature  fall  of  the  foliage. 
Houses  of  Ripe  Grapes. — Slight  shade,  such  as  a  single  pilchard  or 
double  thickners  of  herring  nets  is  advisable  to  prevent  Black  Hamburghs 
becoming  red  and  SWeetwaters  brown  in  colour.  Moderate  air  moisture 
will  not  injure  the  Grapes  if  accompanied  by  judicious  ventilation 
constantly.  Keep  the  laterals  fairly  under,  but  a  little  extension  will 
assist  in  the  retention  of  the  principal  leaves,  and  upon  these  depends 
the  storing  of  alimentary  matter  for  maturing  the  buds  and  supporting 
growth  from  them  for  the  next  year’s  crops. 
Grapes  Ripening  —  Small  berries  and  many  shanked  are  the 
characteristics  of  Grapes  on  Vines  started  at  the  beginning  of  the 
year.  Nothing  aggravates  this  so  much  as  an  excess  of  moisture  and 
lack  of  sweet  food.  Where  Grapes  shank  there  is  usually  neither  a 
deficiency  of  moisture  nor  of  food,  but  neither  is  in  a  proper  con¬ 
dition,  the  soil  being  too  close — not  enough  grit  and  calcareous  matter 
in  it  to  insure  the  free  access  of  air  and  water  through  it  and  passing 
away  freely,  consequently  the  food  is  not  sweet,  and  shanking  is 
the  result  This  greatest  of  evils  in  Grapes  can  only  be  overcome  by 
an  alteration  of  soil  staple  or  rectification  of  its  liability  to  sourness  by 
application  of  lime,  thus  furnishing  the  Vines  with  nitrate  and  sulphate 
of  that  substance.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly  when  the  Grapes 
begin  to  change  colour,  with  sufficient  heat  in  the  pipes  to  maintain 
a  night  temperature  of  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90° 
through  the  day  from  sun  heat.  Avoid  an  arid  atmosphere,  damping 
occasionally,  and  do  not  allow  the  border  to  become  dry.  Vines  ripen¬ 
ing  heavy  crops  will  be  assisted  in  perfecting  them  and  storing  food  for 
the  future  by  an  application  of  tepid  liquid  manure,  applying  it  early 
in  the  day,  and  choosing  bright  weather,  so  that  superabundant  moisture 
will  be  dispersed  before  evening.  A  light  mulching  of  spent  material 
will  assist  the  Vines  by  securing  uniform  moisture  and  keeping  the 
roots  near  the  surface,  whilst  preventing  cracking.  It  is  a  confined 
atmosphere,  with  defective  root  moisture  during  the  swelling,  that  do 
mischief  in  Grapes  cracking  when  ripening  or  ripe. 
Late  Grapes. — The  final  thinning  will  need  to  be  completed  as  soon 
as  possible,  crowding  the  berries  being  even  worse  than  over-thinning  ; 
but  extremes  are  always  bad,  especially  that  of  overburdeoing  the 
Vines.  If  there  be  any  doubt  of  the  crop  being  more  than  the  Vines 
can  finish  well,  by  all  means  give  the  Vines  the  benefit  by  reducing  the 
bunches.  A  pound  of  Grapes  per  foot  of  rod  is  usually  as  many  as 
ordinary  Vines  finish  well,  but  if  mistake  be  made  let  it  be  on  the  side 
of  the  Vines,  as  those  overburdened  never  finish  the  fruit  well,  and  it  is 
inferior  in  keeping  qualities.  Thin  so  as  to  secure  large  and  highly 
finished  berries,  Gros  Colman  requiring  to  have  them  an  inch  apart  or 
even  more,  whilst  oval-berried  varieties  require  a  little  less  room,  but 
all  plenty,  so  that  each  berry  will  have  ample  room  to  swell  to  full  size 
without  cracking. 
Melons. — If  plants  are  at  once  put  out  in  pits  or  frames  that  have 
been  cleared  of  bedding  plants,  they  will  set  the  fruit  in  July  and  give 
excellent  Melons  during  August  or  early  in  September.  All  stopping 
and  disbudding  must  be  done  whilst  the  growths  are  small,  for  large 
reductions  only  tend  to  promote  gumming  and  grossness  in  the  parts 
retained,  and  are  unfavourable  to  the  setting  of  the  crop. 
Second  crops  may  be  taken  when  the  plants  are  healthy,  cu  ting  out 
the  old  growths  and  encouraging  young  in  their  place.  These  will  set 
and  swell  fruit  freely  if  the  plants  are  kept  clear  from  red  spider  and 
due,  but  not  excessive,  supplies  of  nourishment  are  afforded. 
During  moist  weather  Melons  do  not  set  freely,  the  plants  growing 
too  vigorously,  the  defect  being  accelerated  by  a  too  moist  atmosphere 
with  crowding  of  the  foliage.  Keep  the  growths  thin,  admit  a  little 
air  constantly,  for  no  blossom  can  set  when  the  moisture  condenses 
on  and  destroys  the  delicate  organs  of  fructification.  Fertilise  the  flowers 
when  fully  expanded,  stopping  the  shoots  at  the  same  time  one  joint 
beyond  the  fruit.  Admit  air  freely  if  fine  weather  permit,  increasing 
the  chink  of  air  irom  70°,  then  allow  a  rise  to  80°,  85°,  or  90°,  at 
which  keep  through  the  day,  and  reduce  the  ventilation  with  the 
declining  sun.  When  the  fruit  is  set  and  the  size  of  a  bantam’s  egg 
commence  watering,  and  maintain  a  genial  atmosphere.  During 
ripening  free  ventilation  and  less  moisture  are  desirable,  withholding  it 
from  the  atmosphere,  and  only  giving  sufficient  at  the  roots  to  prevent 
flagging. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Allamandas. — Large  plants  confined  in  pots  will  be  flowi  ring  freely, 
and  to  keep  them  growing  place  a  good  layer  of  manure  on  the  surface, 
and  give  liquid  manure  every  time  they  need  water.  R  pit  all  young 
plants  that  it  is  necessary  to  extend,  and  grow  them  fully  exposed  to  the 
sun.  These  plants  do  well  in  loam,  one-seventh  of  manure  and  sand. 
Shade  only  is  needed  for  a  few  hours  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day 
when  large  quantities  of  flowers  are  expanded.  The  flowers  of  Alla- 
mandas  are  useful  for  dinner-table  decorations  or  for  shallow  dishes  when 
associated  with  Adiantum  cuneatum.  Plants  that  have  been  trained 
round  four  or  five  stakes  and  carefully  hardened  may  be  removed  to  the 
conservatory.  Stand  them  where  cold  draughts  will  not  strike  directly 
upon  them.  With  careful  treatment  they  will  grow  and  flower  for  a 
long  time  in  this  structure. 
Bougainvillea  glabra. — A  very  useful  conservatory  plant  from  this 
period  of  the  year.  It  should  not,  however,  be  grown  too  warm  when 
intended  for  these  structures.  If  grown  in  heat  harden  the  plants  and 
remove  them  to  cooler  quarters  for  the  flowers  to  expand.  When  deve¬ 
loped  under  cool  conditions  they  are  much  brighter  in  colour,  and  last 
much  longer  than  those  in  too  much  heat.  Encourage  young  plants  to 
make  strong  wood,  which  if  well  ripened  will  flower  freely  another  year. 
Clerodendron  Balfourlanum. — Plants  that  are  well  grown  in  6 
and  7-inch  pots  from  cuttings  rooted  early  in  the  season  are,  if  trained 
round  four  or  five  stakes  and  brought  into  bloom  about  this  period  of  the 
year,  conspicuous  in  the  conservatory.  After  they  have  flowered  they 
can  be  grown  for  another  year  ;  but  the  best  method  is  to  prepare  some 
annually  and  convey  those  that  have  flowered  to  the  rubbish  heap,  unless 
larger  sized  specimens  are  appreciated.  Under  these  circumstances  they 
may  have  larger  pots.  Young  p  ants  for  next  year  are  growing  freely 
in  6  and  7-inch  pots.  Train  them  under  the  roof  of  a  fight  house 
exposed  to  the  sun — in  fact,  any  light  warm  position  will  suit  them. 
Stephanotis  fl orlbunda. — Keep  plants  growing  in  pots  by  the  aid  of 
weak  stimulants  every  time  water  is  needed.  If  the  surface  is  mulched 
with  decayed  manure  the  roots  will  soon  take  posst  ssion  of  it.  So  long  as 
the  plants  can  be  kept  growing  they  will  continue  flowering  provided 
they  are  freely  exposed  to  sun  and  air.  Syringe  frequently  to  keep  the 
plants  clean.  Some  attention  is  needed  to  train  the  shoots  as  they 
extend,  or  they  soon  become  entangled  and  give  endless  trouble  after¬ 
wards.  Where  practicable  train  the  shoots  up  strings,  for  they  are  much 
more  easily  taken  down  than  when  they  are  secured  to  wires  of  a  per¬ 
manent  nature.  Where  large  plants  are  becoming  too  thick  draw  out 
