20 
JOUllNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AHD  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  a,  1896. 
WOKK.foiitheWEEK.. 
HAEDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Summer  Prunlngr. — Systematic  attention  to  the  stopping  of  the 
summer  shoots  of  wall,  bush,  and  pyramidal  fruit  trees  ought  now  to  be 
regularly  practised,  doing  a  little  at  a  time,  so  as  not  to  afford  an  undue 
check  to  any  tree  by  removing  a  large  quantity  of  foliage  at  one  opera¬ 
tion.  The  belt  method  of  procedure  consists  in  commencing  at  the 
upper  parts,  where  the  growths  are  strongest,  owing  to  the  natural  flow 
of  sap  being  freer  in  that  direction.  The  desirable  check  which  this 
gives  is  the  means  of  diverting  superfluous  energy  in  directions  where 
the  shoots  are  less  vigorous  and  require  some  increase  in  the  flow  of 
sap,  which  will  strengthen  the  growths  generally  and  enlarge  their  buds. 
The  method  of  gradual  removal  has  the  advantage  that  trees  can  be 
quickly  dealt  with  and  attention  given  to  all  in  a  short  space  of  time. 
Plums  and  Cherriss. — The  shortening  of  the  shoots  not  required  for 
laying-in  to  furnish  the  wall  may  be  proceeded  with,  cutting  back  to 
four  or  five  leaves.  If  too  closely  reduced  there  is  great  possibility  of 
the  lower  buds  breaking  into  growth.  Where  there  is  room  without 
crowding  a  number  of  the  best  placed  shoots  can  be  nailed  or  tied-in  to 
the  wall  or  fence,  and  similar  growths  treated  in  the  same  way  in  previous 
years  cut  out  to  make  room  for  them.  In  the  case  of  cordon,  bush,  and 
pyramidal  Plums  and  Cherries,  or  horizontally  trained  trees  on  walls, 
the  restrictive  method  of  pruning  dees  not  admit  of  young  wood  being 
thus  reserved,  except  where  it  is  desirable  to  renew  branches  or  spurs. 
Young  wood,  however,  originated  for  the  latter  purpose  ought,  neverthe¬ 
less,  to  be  shortened  two-thirds,  while  that  for  new  branches,  or  leaders 
of  branches  necessary  to  extend,  may  remain  unshortened  until  the 
winter  pruning. 
Morello  Cherries  are  best  treated  like  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  laying 
in  as  much  young  wood  as  possible  consistent  with  its  receiving  a  due 
amount  of  light  and  air  throughout  the  summer  and  autumn,  without 
which  the  wood  cannot  be  fruitful  the  following  season.  Those  shooti, 
however,  for  which  there  is  no  room  may  either  be  cut  out  entirely  or 
shortened.  When  the  present  bearing  parts  are  cut  out  after  the  crop 
is  gathered  there  will  be  vacancies  for  the  shoots  now  being  reserved 
to  take  their  place. 
Pears. — In  all  forms  of  trees  except  large  standards  the  restrictive 
form  of  training  is  the  best,  branches  being  originated  a  foot  apart,  and 
spur  growths  encouraged  upon  them.  In  order  to  form  the  spurs  on 
young  trees  and  to  insure  a  continued  fruitful  character  on  older 
branches  the  summer  pruning  cf  the  side  shoots  is  necessary.  If  allowed 
to  extend  such  growths  rob  the  spurs  clustered  round  them  of  much 
necessary  support,  and  waste  it  in  their  own  superfluous  growth.  If 
shortened  now,  however,  beginning  with  the  strongest  growths,  the 
energies  of  each  will  be  concentrated  in  the  lower  buds,  and  there  will 
be  every  probability  of  their  showing  a  tendency  to  ultimately  produce 
blossom.  Sappy  growths  starting  from  behind  branches  on  walls,  or 
extending  into  the  centre  of  bush  and  pyramidal  trees  ought  to  be  cut 
out  entirely. 
Apples. — Immediately  the  lower  leaves  attain  full  size  on  the  side 
shoots  of  cordons,  bushes,  and  pyramids  reduce  the  length  of  the  shoots 
so  as  to  leave  six  of  the  lowest  and  largest  leaves,  the  basal  leaves  not 
being  counted.  It  is  important  that  the  foliage  remaining  should  be 
full  si.’ied  and  perfect,  because  upon  their  presence  and  work  depends  the 
plumping  of  the  buds  at  the  base  to  which  the  shoot  must  be  shortened 
in  winter.  The  buds  in  the  axils  of  the  upper  leaves  act  as  safety  valves 
for  any  excess  of  sap  and  energy  the  trees  possess.  It  is  frequently  the 
case  that  shoots  after  being  shortened  push  into  growth  again,  and  if  the 
number  of  leaves  left  are  less  than  four  the  probability  is  that  the  lower 
buds,  which  it  was  intended  should  remain  quiescent  but  be  well  fed  and 
nourished,  will  push  into  growth.  This  is  obviated  by  leaving  the 
growths  longer,  the  higher  buds  then  being  available  for  the  outlet  of 
superfluous  energy.  After  a  little  extension  these  sub-lateral  growths 
are  reduced  to  one  leaf,  the  process  being  repeated  if  necessary  with 
further  growths. 
Propagatlngr  Strawberries. — It  is  a  great  advantage  to  secure 
early  runners  from  vigorous  and  fruitful  plants.  To  propagate  from  any 
which  have  failed  to  bloom  or  fruit  this  season  ii  simply  waste  of  time, 
and  such  plants  that  appear  in  a  bed  or  quarter  of  Strawberries  ought  at 
once  to  be  discarded. 
Methods  of  Rooting. — The  simplest  method  of  rooting  runners  ii  on 
the  soil  between  the  rows.  For  early  plants  it  is  not  advisable  that  this 
be  left  to  chance,  because  when  the  ground  is  dry  and  hard  roots  are 
not  emitted  readily.  A  better  plan  is  to  select  a  number  of  the  best 
runners  showing  the  first  plantlet  well  advanced  in  size.  Place  them  on 
one  side  and  loosen  the  soil  between  the  rows  with  a  fork.  Thin  out 
weak  and  crowded  runners.  Those  selected  peg  down  on  the  soil,  after¬ 
wards  give  water  and  keep  moist  until  rooted.  Do  not  allow  the  runner 
to  extend  beyond  the  plantlet  unless  a  large  stock  is  required,  when  two 
can  be  taken  from  one  wire.  Three-inch  pots  filled  with  loam  and  manure 
made  tolerably  firm  and  plunged  partially  in  the  ground  is  a  favourite 
mode  of  securing  plants  for  the  earliest  plantings  and  for  pot  culture. 
Piantlets  secured  upon  them  with  a  stone  and  the  soil  kept  moist  readily 
emit  roots.  Instead  of  pots  3  or  4  inch  square  turves  may  be  employed, 
and  if  kept  constantly  moist  sturdy  plants  with  abundance  of  roots 
are  soon  produced, 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earhj  Forced  Houses. — When  the  Grapes  have  been  cut 
the  Vines  should  be  thoroughly  syringed  to  cleanse  them  of  dust  and 
insects.  The  worst  of  these  pests  is  red  spider,  which  in  its  countless 
numbers  so  impoverishes  the  leaves  that  they  fall  prematurely,  and  the 
buds  are  so  ill-formed  that  the  growths  from  them  in  the  following  year 
are  poor  and  the  fruit  scanty  or  indifferent.  Where  red  spider  has  dis¬ 
figured  the  foliage  and  caused  some  of  the  leaves  to  fall,  which  is  not 
uncommon  in  early  and  hard  forcing,  laterals  should  be  encouraged  from 
the  upper  part  of  the  bearing  shoots,  so  as  to  excite  root  action  and 
prevent  the  pruning  buds  starting  into  growth.  These  buds,  though  the 
leaves  may  have  fallen,  will  not  start  provided  there  is  growth  above 
them  to  appropriate  the  sap,  and  they  will  usually  perfect  the  embryonic 
growth  and  crop  formation  of  the  coming  season.  Where  the  basal  and 
main  leaves  are  fresh  a  moderate  extension  of  the  laterals,  especially  in 
the  case  of  weakly  Vines  and  those  long  subjected  to  early  forcing, 
should  be  encouraged  from  the  extremities  or  above  the  pruning  buds 
only  ;  in  any  case  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  interfere  with  the  prin¬ 
cipal  leaves.  The  Vines  must  not  be  allowed  to  go  to  rest,  or  they  will 
make  a  second  growth  late  in  the  summer.  Therefore,  syringe  every 
evening  until  they  are  freed  of  dust  and  red  spider,  and  then  occasionally 
so  as  to  preserve  the  foliage  as  long  as  possible.  Ventilate  to  the  fullest 
extent  day  and  night,  and  if  there  are  moveable  roof  lights  they  may  be 
taken  off  in  mild  weather.  Where,  however,  it  is  intended  to  lift  the 
Vines  and  lay  the  roots  in  fresh  compost  near  the  surface  the  roof 
lights  must  only  be  removed  on  condition  that  they  are  held  in  readiness 
to  place  over  the  Vines  in  case  of  heavy  rains,  as  a  wet  soil  is  not  favour¬ 
able  to  lifting.  There  is  no  cleanser  equal  to  rain  from  the  clouds,  and 
a  judicious  withdrawal  of  the  roof  lights  frees  the  upper  side  of  the 
foliage  of  mealy  bug,  red  spider,  and  tbrips,  where  they  are  quite  safe 
from  insecticides  applied  from  beneath. 
Grapes  Colouring.  —  Although  nourishment  may  not  materially 
benefit  the  fruit  whilst  ripening,  it  prevents  exhaustion  of  the  Vines 
where  the  crops  are  heavy.  Thorough  supplies  of  water  are  requisite 
for  the  perfecting  of  the  crop,  but  excessive  soil  moisture  tends  to  induce 
shanking,  and  is  not  favourable  to  the  formation  of  the  buds  and  ripen¬ 
ing  of  the  wood.  A  light  mulch  of  spent  material  will  promote  uniform 
moisture  and  surface  rooting.  Outside  borders  must  not  be  neglected 
where  they  have  not  been  sufficiently  moistened  by  the  recent  rains. 
Moderate  air  moisture  is  still  required  for  the  foliage,  damping  down 
the  house  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  but  there  must  not  be  a  close 
atmosphere.  During  ripening  Grapes  require  a  free  current  of  air  with 
abundance  of  heat,  as  a  rather  dry  warm  atmosphere  contributes  much 
to  high  6avour  and  finish.  The  temperature  should  be  maintained  at 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  5°  to  10°  lower  at  night ;  with  sun  heat,  10°  to 
15°  more  may  be  allowed. 
Late  Houses. — The  Grapes  will  have  been  completed  thinning,  or  it 
only  remains  to  go  over  the  bunches  the  last  time  for  the  removal  of 
superfluous  or  stoneless  berries.  To  have  highly  finished  fruits  the 
thinning  must  be  done  well,  especially  in  the  interior  of  the  bunches, 
leaving  the  large-berried  varieties,  such  as  Gros  Colman,  not  less  than 
1  inch  apart,  and  the  oval-berried  varieties  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  asunder.  Spare  not  the  bunches  where  they  are  too  numerous,  but 
reduce  them  to  the  proper  number,  as  judged  by  their  size  and  condition 
of  the  Vines;  It  is  well  to  err,  if  at  all,  on  the  safe  side,  as  over¬ 
burdened  Vines  never  finish  the  fruit  well,  and  it  will  not  keep  sound 
for  any  length  of  time. 
When  the  Grapes  are  fairly  proportioned  to  the  vigour  of  the  Vines 
they  swell  rapidly  up  to  stoning,  then  remain  almost  stationary  for  a 
month  or  six  weeks,  and  in  that  time  effect  what  is  known  as  the  stoning 
process.  It  is  at  this  stage  that  the  Vines  require  the  lime,  silica,  and 
other  mineral  substances  for  the-Wmation  of  the  stone,  with  phosphoric 
acid  and  magnesia  for  concentration  in  the  embryonic  plant,  which 
must  have  been  present  or  supplied  to  the  soil  and  taken  into  the  Vines 
if  they  are  to  stone  satisfactorily.  The  Grapes  do  not  drop  off,  as  in  the 
case  of  Peaches,  when  stoning  is  not  satisfactory,  but  they  sometimes 
shank,  and  frequently  fail  to  colour  properly.  Feeing,  therefore,  should 
commence  in  good  time,  and  be  continued  at  suitable  intervals  to  insure 
adequate  supplies  on  the  Vines,  so  that  its  diffusion,  storing,  and  trans¬ 
ference  may  be  effected.  Vines  grow  rapidly  with  the  soakings  of 
rain  the  borders  generally  get  about  hay  time.  The  rain  is  then  warm 
and  charged  with  ammonia  and  nitric  acid,  which  speedily  pass  into 
nitrate  of  lime,  the  good  things  the  soil  contains  being  absorbed  by  the 
roots,  while  the  soil  itself  is  cleansed  of  impurities  by  the  passage  of  the 
water  through  it,  and  oxidisation  proceeds  rapidly.  All  is  thus  sweet 
where  the  drainage  is  thorough.  Soak  the  inside  borders  when  in  the 
least  dry,  and  follow  with  liquid  manure  where  the  Vines  are  carrying 
heavy  crops.  Sweetened  horse  droppings  are  suitable  for  mulching 
heavy  soil,  but  for  light  soil  farmyard  or  cow  manure  is  better.  An 
inch  or  two  thickness  is  quite  sufficient,  adding  to  it  from  time  to  time 
so  as  to  keep  that  thickness,  and  so  supply  nutriment  regularly.  When 
the  border  gets  dry  at  the  surface  and  remains  so,  the  roots  strike  down 
in  quest  of  moisture,  and  the  result  is  the  Grapes  finish  badly,  often 
shanking,  and  are  frequently  defective  in  colour. 
Excess  of  foliage  is  not  good,  for  only  leaves  exposed  to  light  perform 
their  functions  properly.  It  is  a  bad  plan  to  occupy  all  the  space  with 
