July  2,  18&G. 
JoriUNAL  OF  JTORTlOtJLl^URE  AUD  COTTAGE  OAnDEXEk. 
21 
laterals  aad  not  leave  room  for  a  little  extension,  as  growth  made 
successionally  promotes  root  action.  The  foliage  should  be  rather 
thinner  for  Muscat  of  Alexandria  than  for  black  Grapes,  as  the  more 
light  this  variety  gets  the  better  substance  and  quality  the  Grapes 
possess.  Avoid  large  reductions  of  foliage  at  one  time.  The  merest 
point  should  be  taken  off  laterals  and  sub-laterals,  and  then  all  the 
benefit  is  got  out  of  the  extension  without  any  of  the  disadvantages 
resulting  from  a  confused  mass  suddenly  removed  by  armfuls,  which 
produces  stagnation  of  the  sap  and  a  check  on  the  roots. 
Vines  extending  may  be  allowed  to  make  as  much  lateral  growth  as 
consistent  with  non-interference  with  the  principal  leaves  which  nourish 
the  buds  to  which  the  Vines  are  to  be  pruned.  Such  extensions,  however, 
must  be  kept  subordinate  to,  and  not  allowed  to  interfere  with  the 
principal  growths. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus.  —  The  drought  seriously  affected  many  crops  of 
Asparagus  shoots,  and  unless  a  soaking  rain  has  fallen  will  also 
materially  affect  next  season’s  supply.  If  the  rain  has  moistened  the 
ground  to  a  good  depth,  that  would  be  a  good  preparation  for  a  dose  of 
liquid  manure.  Young  plantations  do  not  need  liquid  manure,  but  if 
dry  at  the  roots  should  have  a  soaking  of  water  and  a  mulching  of 
strawy  manure.  Weeds  ought  never  to  be  allowed  to  get  the  upper  hand 
on  Asparagus  beds,  and  if  a  liberal  surfacing  of  salt  fails  to  destroy  all 
that  are  showing,  hand- weeding  should  be  resorted  to.  Strong  Asparagus 
growths  are  liable  to  be  broken  down  by  rain  and  wind,  and  in  order 
to  save  them  support  with  either  pea  stakes  or  stakes  and  raffia.  Thus 
taken  care  of  they  will  form  stout  buds  at  their  base,  from  which  fine 
succulent  shoots  will  start  next  spring. 
Stunner  Beans.  —  The  seed  sown  was  good,  the  ground  warm 
and  not  over-moist,  and  crowded  rows  are  the  order  of  the  day.  There 
ought  to  be  no  hesitation  about  thinning.  One  or,  at  the  most,  two 
plants  to  each  pole  or  stake  are  ample,  and  these  latter  should  he 
12  inches  or  more  apart.  Nothing  is  gained,  and  much  may  be  lost,  by 
growing  them  more  closely  together.  Never  unduly  delay  staking,  or 
the  plants  run  together  in  masses.  Stop  when  the  tops  of  the  poles  or 
stakes  are  reached.  Any  grown  without  stakes  to  be  gone  over  every 
week,  and  all  running  growths  pinched  hard  back.  Unless  this  is  done 
there  will  be  nothing  but  a  confused  mass  of  haulm,  and  no  crop  worthy 
of  the  namci  If  Runner  Beans  are  watered,  let  it  be  done  in  no  half¬ 
hearted  manner.  Give  a  thorough  soaking  or  none  at  all.  Unless  the 
ground  was  freely  manured  liquid  manure  ought  to  be  applied  when  the 
plants  are  cropping,  and  a  heavy  mulching  of  strawy  manure  would 
prove  beneficial.  If  one  or  more  rows  were  sown  at  once,  the  plants 
resulting  would  come  into  bearing  late  in  August  and  continue  produc¬ 
tive  till  destroyed  by  frosts.  Dig-in  solid  manure  deeply,  or  form  wide 
trenches  with  manure  buried  in  them.  Water  the  drills  before  sowing 
the  seed,  and  cover  with  3  inches  of  soil.  If  the  soil  is  left  in  the  form 
of  a  trough  on  each  side  of  the  rows  watering  will  be  facilitated. 
Endive. — Endive  is  sometimes  wanted  before  the  Lettuce  season  is 
over,  and  when  well  grown  and  properly  blanched  it  adds  to  the 
appearance  and  quality  of  an  autumn  salad.  The  Moss-curled  is  the 
first  fit  for  use,  but  is  inferior  in  point  of  quality  to  the  Green-curled  ; 
this  in  its  turn  being  surpassed  by  the  later  Broad-leaved  Batavian.  A 
pinch  of  seed  of  each  may  be  sown  now  on  a  well-manured  west  border. 
When  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  transplant,  water,  draw  a  portion, 
and  replant  on  good  ground  in  rows  9  inches  to  1  foot  apart.  Leave 
plants  in  the  seed  bed  5  to  6  inches  apart.  These  will  continue  to 
grow  strongly,  and  pressing  against  each  other  will  gradually  close  up, 
blanching  being  effected  without  any  further  trouble. 
Zaettace. — It  is  almost  useless  trying  to  transplant  these  success¬ 
fully  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  year.  Every  fortnight  or  so  seeds 
should  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain.  Dig  in  manure  freely, 
mixing  some  of  it  with  the  surface  soil,  and  make  the  ground  fine  and 
firm.  The  blaok-seeded  Brown  Cos  is  good  for  present  sowing,  as  well 
as  a  good  strain  of  Paris  White  Cos.  The  Neapolitan  type  of  Ca’tbage 
Lettuces  stand  heat  well,  and  with  these  may  be  sown  the  invaluable 
All  the  Year  Round.  Thin  Lettuces  where  they  stand  thickly,  leaving 
them  9  to  12  inches  apart  if  wanted  large,  while  if  left  more  closely 
together  good  serviceable  hearts  will  result.  The  Brown  Cos  should  be 
tied  up  when  nearly  fully  grown,  and  perfectly  blanched,  crisp,  sweet 
and  tender  hearts  will  be  the  outcome. 
Peas. — The  weather  has  been  much  too  hot  for  these.  Watering 
heavily  and  repeatedly  has  not  done  much  towards  producing  heavy 
crops,  and  in  many  instances  an  early  collapse  has  resulted.  Liquid 
manure  would  also  appear  to  have  done  more  harm  than  good  in  some 
cases.  A  heavy  mulch  of  strawy  manure  tends  to  keep  the  ground  cool 
and  moist.  It  is  the  crowded  rows  that  are  the  first  to  fail,  and  unstaked 
Peas,  or  those  resting  on  the  ground  principally  in  market  growers’ 
fields,  are  holding  out  better  than  those  grown  in  the  usual  manner  in 
private  gardens. 
Late  Peas. — A  few  or  many  late  dishes  are  quite  as  much  appreciated 
as  those  gathered  early  in  the  season.  If  birds,  and  tomtits  in  par¬ 
ticular,  cannot  be  kept  from  late  Peas,  it  is  next  to  useless  to  sow  any. 
Those  varieties  with  a  robust  constitution,  such  as  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  are  the 
best  for  present  sowing.  They  will  succeed  either  on  extra  wide  spaces 
between  Celery  trenches  or  on  well-manured  deeply  dug  ground,  and  the 
farther  apart  the  rows  can  be  kept  in  reason  the  better  they  seem  to 
thrive.  Open  wide  drills,  water,  sow  the  seed  thinly,  and  cover  with 
3  inches  of  soil.  In  dry  hot  gardens  water  must  be  given  freely  before 
the  haulm  becomes  stunted,  and  a  mulching  also  applied. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Cyclamens. — Plants  that  are  ripening  their  seed  must  not  be  allowed 
to  become  dry.  Gather  the  seed  daily  as  it  ripens,  and  place  the 
pods  in  a  shallow  box  on  a  shelf  where  they  can  be  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Seedlings  raised  early  in  the  year  and  then  placed  into  pans  and  boxes 
will  be  ready  for  transferring  into  2i-inch  pots.  After  potting,  place 
these  close  to  the  glass  where  they  can  enjoy  a  moist  base  and  not  be 
too  shaded.  Nothing  is  gained  by  trying  to  hurry  the  plants,  better 
results  will  follow  a  dwa*  :  sturdy  growth.  If  kept  too  close  the  foliage, 
is  drawn  up  weakly,  and  the  plants  seldom  do  well  afterwards.  Plants 
raised  last  August  and  September  that  are  dwarf,  sturdy,  and  well 
established  in  2^-inch  pots  should  be  placed  without  delay  into  4  and 
5-inch  size.  These  will  seem  large  for  the  plants  at  first,  but  by  careful 
attention  and  good  treatment  they  will  soon  increase  in  size  and  make 
bold  large  foliage.  Be  careful  not  to  allow  the  plants  to  become  dry 
after  potting,  and  syringe  them  two  or  three  times  daily.  If  the 
structure  in  which  they  are  grown  runs  north  and  south  no  shading 
will  be  needed .  Give  liberal  ventilation  when  the  sun  is  hot,  and  if  the 
plants  display  signs  of  distress  syringe  them. 
Bouvardlas. — Old  plants  that  were  cut  back  and  started  in  heat 
should  be  in  their  largest  pots  and  then  gradually  hardened  and  placed 
outside.  In  any  locality  where  they  do  well  planted  out  place  them 
on  a  sunny  open  border,  after  they  have  been  thoroughly  hardened, 
1  foot  or  15  inches  apart,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plants.  Place 
those  raised  from  roots  early  in  the  year  into  5,  6,  and  7-inch  pots 
according  to  their  size.  If  these  plants  have  been  well  cared  for  they 
will  have  pushed  up  freely  from  the  bast.  Stop  any  shoots  that  ate 
taking  the  lead.  Plants  raised  from  cuttings  needed  for  decorative 
purposes  must  be  stopped  when  the  shoots  have  made  two  joints  to 
induce  busby  little  plants  ;  these  should  be  in  6-inch  pots.  Any  shoots 
that  spring  from  the  base  should  be  stopped  just  below  those  of  a  weaker 
nature. 
Solanams. — Cut-back  plants  have  commenced  flowering  freely. 
These  should  occupy  a  frame  where  abundance  of  light  and  air  can  be 
admitted.  This  will  insure  the  fruits  setting  if  the  plants  are  given 
plenty  of  water  at  their  roots,  but  the  foliage  must  not  be  syringed. 
Plants  raised  from  cuttings  early  will  be  busby  little  plants  in  3-iach 
pots.  Place  these  in  5-inch  and  gradually  harden  them  to  cool  airy 
treatment.  Do  not  pinch  them  after  they  are  potted,  but  allow  them  to 
fiower  and  set  their  berries.  Solanums  do  well  in  loam,  sand,  and  one- 
seventh  of  manure.  Pot  the  plants  firmly. 
Cinerarias. — The  earliest  plants  may  be  placed  in  5  and  6-inch 
pots.  Arrange  them  in  a  cold  frame,  and  do  not  overshade  them. 
Smaller  plants  may  be  placed  in  60’8  (3-inch),  while  later  ones  may  be 
pricked  2  inches  apart  in  pans  and  boxes.  A  little  more  seed  may  be 
sown  in  a  cool  house  or  frame. 
Calceolarias.— Seed  should  be  sown  without  delay.  Fill  a  pan 
with  light  soil,  fine  and  even  on  the  surface,  water  gently  with  a  fine- 
rose  can,  and  then  sow.  Cover  the  pan  with  a  square  of  glass,  and 
shade  until  the  seed  germinates.  When  the  plants  are  large  enough 
prick  them  off  into  pans  or  boxes,  and  grow  the  plants  perfectly  cool 
in  a  frame  with  a  northern  aspect. 
Begronlas.— Those  intended  for  autumn  and  winter  flowering  should 
be  repotted  as  they  need  more  root  room,  and  grown  in  cold  frames. 
Abundance  of  air  must  be  admitted  during  the  day,  closing  the  frame 
early,  so  that  the  temperature  will  rise  considerably  by  sun  heat.  Do 
not  overshade  these  plants ;  they  will  bear  more  sunshine  than  is 
generally  given  them.  Begonias  are  frequently  overshaded.  They  need 
very  little  shade,  and  then  only  of  the  lightest  nature  if  sufficient  air 
is  admitted  when  the  sun  is  bright. 
1 
HE  BEE-KEEI 
■  j_.J  ,  ,  ■  ,  .  >  «  i  «  I  «  1  .  1  .  1  ,  t  «  t  ,  1  «_L4i  t 
"ER. 
-  J  L;- 
QUEEN  REARING. 
{Continued  from  page  590.) 
Nucleus  hives  may  be  formed  with  two  or  three  frames 
containing  brood,  and  as  many  may  be  formed  as  there  are  queen 
cell*  to  dispose  of.  Small  boxes  to  hold  three  frames,  or  a  large 
box  or  hive  may  be  used,  with  a  close-fitting  division  board  between 
each  set  of  combs  containing  a  queen  cell,  and  each  being  provided 
with  a  separate  entrance.  If  there  are  not  sufficient  frames  of 
brood  in  the  original  stock  in  which  tbe  queen  cells  have  been 
raised,  others  may  be  obtained  with  the  adhering  bees,  taking  care 
not  to  remove  the  queen  with  them. 
Some  of  the  frames  will  probably  have  several  well-developed 
queen  cells  on  them,  which  may  ail  be  removed  but  one.  Those 
that  are  cut  out  should  have  a  couple  of  inches  of  comb  attached 
to  them,  and  care  must  be  taken  not  to  crush  the  young  queen. 
These  may  ^e  placed  on  frames  of  brood  by  simply  pressing  the 
piece  of  adhering  comb  into  the  face  of  the  brood  comb,  with  the 
cell  in  the  same  position  as  it  was  originally  when  formed  by  the 
bees,  which  always  points  downwards. 
The  parent  stock  will  now  be  divided  into  a  number  of  nuclei, 
