S,  189&, 
JOnniS^AL  OF  HDRTiaULruRF  AF^f)  COTTA OE  GARDENFR. 
45 
ANDROMEDA  SPECIOSA  CASSiNiEFOLIA. 
The  Andromedas  are  plants  that  might  wall  be  accorded  a  place  in 
every  garden,  as  they  are  extremely  ornamental.  Mr.  Webster,  in 
“  Hardy  Ornamental  Flowering  Trees  and  Shrubs,”  says  : — “Andromeda 
speciosa  is  a  distinct  and  pretty  hardy  species,  a  native  of  swampy 
low-lying  districts.  It  grows  about  4  feet  high,  and  bears  pure  white, 
boll-shaped  Lily  of  the  Valley  like  flowers  in  great  abundance  during 
the  summer.  In  too  dry  situations  it  becomes  sparse  of  foliage  and 
unhappy,  but  grows  and  flowers  freely  in  light,  peaty  soil.  A.  speciosa 
cassin^folia  is  a  very  desirable  variety,  the  whole  plant,  stems,  foliage, 
and  flowers,  being  of  a  pleasing  light  grey  or  white  colour.  Individu¬ 
ally  the  flowers  are  larger  than  those  of  the  species.”  The  illustration 
(fig.  S)  portrays  the  last  named  variety. 
SHEFFIELD  (HALLAMSHIRE)  PANSY  SOCIETY. 
This  Society  held  its  annual  show  at  the  Hallamshire  House, 
Commonside,  Sheffield,  on  Saturday,  June  27th.  The  show  was  opened 
by  Mr.  Hague,  who  spoke  very  highly  of  the  exhibits,  and  said  there  was 
great  credit  due  to  the  growers.  The  room  was  tastefully  decorated  by 
a  splendid  lot  of  plants,  kindly  lent  by  H.  Broomhead,  Esq.,  F.R.H.S. 
and  J.  H.  Lawson,  Esq.,  Vice-Presidents  of  the  Society.  In  addition  to 
the  members’  exhibits  Mr.  S.  Pye  of  Catterall,  Lancashire,  had  a  fine 
display  of  Paueies  and  Violas,  not  for  competition,  which  were  greatly 
admired.  The  Judges  were  Messrs,  Wilson  and  Urton  of  Handsworth 
and  Gieadless,  and  their  awards  were  as  follows ; — Mr.  S.  Pye  was 
awarded  first-class  certificates  for  his  grand  new  Pansies  and  Violas, 
Mrs.  Owen,  Colin  Pye,  Mrs.  A.  H.  Greenwood,  Miss  E,  0.  Melvin,  White 
Empress,  William  Smith,  No.  1  Striped,  and  Isa  Ferguson.  Open  class, 
twelve  Pansies. — First,  W.  H.  Wright.  Second,  J.  Thackray.  Third, 
J.  Staton.  Society  classes,  three  dissimilar  Pansies. — First,  F.  Spencer. 
Second,  C.  Gray.  Third,  A.  Maxtield.  Six  dissimilar  Pansies. — First, 
P.  Hallam.  Second.  W.  Smedley.  Third,  C.  Gray.  Twelve  dissimilar 
Pansies. — First,  J.  W.  Shelley.  Second,  P.  Hallam.  Third,  W.  Smedley. 
Seedling  Pansy.  —  First,  W.  Smedley.  Second,  C.  Gray.  Third, 
W.  Hancock.  Mr.  W.  Staton’s  prize  for  the  best  six  Pansies,  to  include 
Beauty  or  Ruby,  was  won  by  J.  W.  Shelley.  Second,  C.  Wright.  Third, 
J,  W.  Marsh,  jun.  The  show  was  well  attended  during  the  day,  and  the 
arrangements  were  well  carried  out  by  Mr.  W.  Gale,  the  Secretary, 
and  the  Committee. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — Early  runners  for  layering  in  pots  are 
best  furnished  by  early  planted  runners  of  last  year.  The  plants  will 
afford  the  strongest  and  best  runners  for  layering  that  are  not  over¬ 
cropped  and  well  supplied  with  water.  They  should  have  shown  blossoms, 
because  runners  from  fruitful  plants  always  turn  out  better  than  those 
from  fruitless,  strong-growing  parents.  The  runners  may  be  layered  into 
the  frniting  pots,  in  small  pots,  or  turves.  All  three  plans  are  good. 
The  finest  plant!  ets  should  be  selected,  and  induced  by  proper 
watering  to  emit  roots  speedily,  so  that  they  may  after  judicious 
management  develop  into  sturdy  plants  and  form  good  crowns.  If 
layered  into  the  largest  pots  they  need  not  be  detached  until  thoroughly 
established. 
Those  layered  in  3-iuch  pots  or  turves  should,  as  soon  as  well  rooted, 
be  detached  and  stood  in  a  shady  place  for  a  few  days  preparatory  to 
shifting  them  into  the  fruiting  pots.  These  may  be  6  inches  for  very 
early  forcing,  6  inches  for  succession,  and  7  inches  for  the  latest  and 
strong-growing  sorts. 
For  very  early  forcing  La  Grosse  Sucr^e,  Royal  Sovereign,  and 
Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury  are  good.  The  two  last  are  excellent  for 
second  early  forcing,  also  Noble,  Auguste  Nicaise,  Sir  Harry,  and 
President.  For  general  crop  Gunton  Park,  Lucas,  and  Sir  Joseph 
Paxton  are  grand  in  crop  and  quality,  while  for  late  British  Queen 
or  Dr.  Hogg  and  Cockscomb  are  unsurpassed. 
The  pots  must  be  clean  inside  and  outside,  have  a  large  crock  over 
the  hole  in  each,  and  three  or  four  of  lesser  size  with  some  smaller 
still,  so  as  to  form  about  an  inch  of  drainage.  This  must  be  secured 
with  the  rougher  parts  of  the  compost  rammed  tightly  down.  Turfy 
loam,  strong  rather  than  light,  should  form  the  staple  of  the  compost. 
Bteak  it  up  roughly,  adding  a  pint  of  steamed  bonemeal,  a  similar  pro¬ 
portion  of  soot,  and  a  quart  of  wood  ashes  to  each  bushel  of  soil.  If 
these  are  not  available,  the  advertised  fertilisers  answer  equally  well, 
following  in  each  case  the  instructions  accompanying  them.  Let  the 
compost  be  moderately  dry  when  used,  for  if  wet  it  will  shrink  after 
potting,  leaving  the  sides  of  the  pot,  Bring  the  soil  in  the  pot  up  to 
the  required  height,  ram  it  firmly,  and  finish,  so  that  the  base  of  the 
crown  will  be  about  half  an  inch  below  the  rim,  which  must  be  left 
clear  for  watering,  allowing  a  little  more  for  the  larger  size  of  pot. 
Stand  the  pots  on  a  hard  base  impervious  to  worms  in  an  open 
situation,  but  sheltered  from  strong  winds,  and  with  sufficient  space 
between  them  to  allow  full  exposure  of  the  foliage.  Give  water  as 
required,  and  sprinkle  the  foliage  daily  in  the  evening  for  a  few  days 
after  potting.  This  greatly  assists  the  plants. 
When  the  roots  are  working  freely  in  the  fresh  soil  copious  sup¬ 
plies  of  water  will  be  needed,  and  always  give  sufficient  to  moisten 
the  soil  through  to  the  drainage.  The  plants  must  not  be  allowed  to 
flag,  and  the  soil  ought  not  to  be  soddened  by  needless  waterings.  Remove 
all  runners  and  weeds  as  they  appear. 
Cucumbers. — A  few  seeds  may  now  be  sown  for  late  summer  and 
early  autumn  fruiting  ;  the  plants  from  this  sowing  will  be  fit  to  place 
out  in  about  a  month.  They  do  well  in  frames  and  come  in  useful  where 
plants,  from  having  been  cropping  some  time,  are  exhausted. 
Plants  in  bearing  must  have  attention  in  thinning  exhausted  growths, 
removing  bad  foliage,  stopping,  tying  and  regulating  the  growths  so  as 
to  keep  up  a  succession  of  bearing  wood.  Add  a  little  fresh  soil  to  the 
surface  from  time  to  time,  and  light  mulching  of  siimulating  material. 
Syringe  at  closing  time,  and  maintain  a  good  moisture  all  day  by  damp¬ 
ing  the  paths,  especially  in  the  morning  and  evening,  it  is  infinitely 
better  than  shading  ;  but  avoid  too  much  moisture  in  dull  weather,  it 
only  makes  the  growths  soft  and  the  foliage  more  susceptible  of  injury 
on  a  bright  period  ensuing. 
Afford  liquid  moisture  copiously  once  or  twice  a  week,  according  to 
circumstances.  Close  early  at  85°,  and  so  as  to  gain  5°  to  10°,  and  only 
employ  fire  heat  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  60°  at  night. 
Avoid  overcropping,  especially  of  young  plants,  and  do  not  allow  the 
fruit  to  hang  too  long,  as  these  exhaust  the  plants  and  prevent  in  a  great 
measure  a  good  and  continuous  supply. 
Melons. — Second  Crops. — When  old  plants  are  in  good  health  and 
free  from  insects  they  will  show  fruit  freely  on  the  laterals,  even  when 
the  current  crop  is  swelling,  but  these  blossoms  will  not  set  unless 
syringing  is  discontinued,  which  is  not  advisable,  so  that  lateral  growths 
should  be  encouraged  to  insure  fruit  showing  when  the  present  crop  is 
advanced  for  ripening,  and  these  will  set  freely  with  the  drier  atmo¬ 
sphere,  and  the  crop  be  somewhat  advanced  by  the  time  the  fruit  is  cut. 
The  plan  is  then  to  cut  away  such  old  growths  as  are  useless,  and  con¬ 
centrate  the  fresh  growth  on  the  young  fruit. 
A  little  of  the  old  soil  may  be  removed,  lumpy  loam  supplied,  with  a 
fourth  of  decayed  manure,  freed  from  worms  by  dusting  with  air-slaked 
lime  and  mixing.  Give  a  soaking  of  tepid  water,  and  follow  at  once 
with  equally  warm  liquid  or  apply  fertiliser,  and  wash  in  moderately. 
Maintain  adequate  moisture,  and  sprinkle  the  beds  in  houses  with 
sweetened  horse  droppings  once  or  twice  a  week,  not  much  at  a  time, 
but  little  and  often  ;  failing  these,  sprinkle  the  paths  occasionally  with 
stable  drainings,  diluted  with  six  times  the  bulk  of  water,  keeping  it 
from  the  foliage. 
Plants  not  having  fruit  set  when  the  first  crop  is  cut,  but  being 
healthy  and  vigorous,  should  be  treated  as  if  they  had  fruit  swell¬ 
ing,  encouraging  growth,  and  when  they  show  fruit  keep  the  air 
drier  and  ventilation  free.  They  will  set  and  swell  a  crop  more  quickly 
than  young  plants,  but  if  they  are  exhausted  with  the  first  crop,  and 
attacked  by  red  spider,  they  would  be  best  rooted  out.  In  that  case 
thoroughly  cleanse  the  house  or  pit,  and  remove  the  old  soil,  supplying 
fresh.  Keep  the  plants  close,  moist,  and  shaded  until  established,  then 
they  will  soon  show  fruit  and  afford  a  late  supply,  but  the  structure 
must  have  artificial  heat,  as  Melons  in  late  September  are  apt  to  suffer 
in  quality  should  the  weather  prove  moist  and  cold.  They  should  then 
have  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  secured,  a  comparatively  dry  atmo¬ 
sphere,  and  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
Give  support  to  the  fruits  before  they  become  heavy,  letting  the 
table  slant  so  as  not  to  hold  wet,  and  place  slates  beneath  the  fruits  of 
plants  in  frames,  raising  them  above  the  foliage  on  small  inverted  flower 
pots  as  the  swelling  advances.  Fertilise  the  flowers  daily  until  sufficient 
fruits  of  about  equal  size  are  set  on  a  plant,  then  remove  all  the  flowers, 
and  reduce  the  fruits  to  three  or  four  on  a  plant  according  to  its 
vigour. 
Shade  only  to  prevent  flaggine  ;  it  is  most  needed  on  bright  weather 
succeeding  a  dull  moist  period.  Melons  directly  exposed  to  the  sun  are 
benefited  at  such  times,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  be  scorched,  and  when 
ripening  are  all  the  better  by  a  slight  shade,  espacially  when  the  plants 
do  not  supply  moisture  to  the  fruit  from  indifferent  health.  Repot  any 
plants  requiring  it,  and  keep  them  sturdy  by  placing  them  near  the 
glass.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  canker.  It  often  arises  from  damp, 
and  the  remedy  is  a  drier  atmosphere  or  freer  ventilation,  and  rubbing 
quicklime  into  the  affected  parts,  keeping  them  quite  diy  by  repeating 
the  process. 
When  the  fruit  is  set  and  swelled  to  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg,  the 
laterals  may  be  pinched  to  one  leaf,  and  if  this  results  in  too  much 
foliage,  so  that  the  leaves  upon  the  primary  shoots  are  crowded  or  shaded 
by  them,  thinning  must  be  resorted  to,  removing  a  little  at  a  time  in 
preference  to  a  large  quantity  at  once,  and  not  unfrequsntly  causing  it 
to  cease  swelling  ;  in  that  case  the  rind  becomes  hard,  also  the  flesh, 
and  it  sometimes  cracks  and  exudes  through  gangrene.  The  plants 
should  be  gone  over  at  least  once  a  week,  and  In  case  of  vigorous  ones 
twice,  for  stopping,  and  the  removal  of  the  superfluous  shoots,  the 
principal  leaves  being  fully  exposed  to  light  and  air. 
