68 
■rornyrAL  of  horttcultttfe  and  cottage  gardener. 
July  10,  18»«. 
phosphoric  acid,  potash,  and  nitrogen.  These  elements  are  largely 
present  in  the  fruit  when  it  attains  perfection  ;  therefore  the  absence  of 
any  to  a  considerable  extent  means  a  deficiency  in  size  and  quality,  and 
a  probable  deterioration  in  the  health  of  the  trees. 
Applying  Artificial  Manures. — Superphosphate  contains  lime  and 
phosphoric  acid.  Kainit  contains  potash.  These  two  chemical  manures 
form  in  combination  necessary  food  for  fruit.  They  may  be  mixed  at 
the  rate  of  5  lbs.  of  superphosphate  to  2  lbs.  of  kainit,  applying  .3  or 
4  ozs.  to  the  square  yard  to  any  fruit  trees  requiring  assistance.  When 
the  wood  growth  is  poor  and  needs  stimulating  lb.  of  nitrate  of  soda 
to  5  lbs.  of  superphosphate,  applying  4  ozs.  to  tbe  square  yard,  will  have 
early  effect.  The  advertised  artificial  manures  are  in  many  instances 
equally  as  good  as  spoeially  prepared  mixtures.  They  are  cheap  and 
easily  procurable.  Four  ounces  is  the  usual  quantity  which  may  safely 
be  applied  to  each  square  yard.  Spread  on  the  surface,  and  water  in. 
Agiphjing  Liquid  Manure. — Liberal  applications  of  liquid  manure 
are  invaluable  to  all  trees  in  fruit,  if  applied  when  the  soil  is  in  a  fairly 
moist  condition.  When  stable  drainings  or  house  sewage  is  readily 
available  utilise  it  in  this  manner,  first  diluting  it,  however,  should  it  be 
too  strong,  to  the  extent  of  half  and  half  or  even  two-thirds.  One  or  two 
applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia  dissolved  in  water 
at  the  rate  of  half  an  ounce  to  gallon  would  assist  in  stimulating  wood 
growth  when  deficient,  and  also  accelerate  the  swelling  of  fruit.  When 
other  liquid  cannot  be  obtained  an  excellent  mixture  may  be  prepared 
by  dissolving  guano  at  the  rate  of  1  lb.  in  20  gallons  of  water. 
Peacbes  and  isrectarlnes. — Continue  to  thin  out  any  shoots  that 
are  crowded  or  ill-placed,  also  to  lay-in  in  the  proper  direction  the 
current  year’s  reserved  growths,  so  that  they  may  be  preserved  from 
growing  in  an  irregular  shape,  and  receive  a  full  share  of  sunlight  and 
air  without  encroaching  on  adjoining  growths  which  require  the  same 
conditions.  Judicious  thinning  out  now  and  the  removal  of  superfluous 
growths  gradually  is  good  cultural  practice.  It  materially  reduces  the 
need  for  severe  winter  pruning.  Young  trees  in  the  course  of  formation 
must  be  specially  attended  to  while  the  wood  is  pliant,  laying  none  in 
for  which  ample  room  cannot  be  found.  An  occasional  syringing  will 
assist  in  maintaining  the  foliage  clean. 
bdorello  Cherries. — These  bearing  the  most  freely  and  best  on  the 
previous  year’s  shoots,  must  have  sufficient  reserved  to  take  the  place  of 
those  which  are  now  bearing  the  crop.  When  such  are  cleared  of  the 
fruit  they  may  at  once  be  cut  out,  securing  the  new  shoots  in  their 
place  in  a  similar  manner  to  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Shoots  on  the 
front  of  branches  may  either  be  cut  out  entirely  or  shortened  to  form 
spurs.  It  is  better  to  do  this  than  crowd  the  trees  with  too  much  wood. 
Sweet  Cherries. — Although  with  fan-trained  trees  on  walls  there 
is  often  an  opportunity  to  lay  in  strong  young  growths  which  will  sub¬ 
sequently  fruit,  the  prevailing  method  of  fruiting  these  is  on  spurs 
formed  on  the  main  branches.  Many  are  formed  naturally,  but 
some  are  usually  originated  by  shortening  the  fore-right  shoots  to 
three  or  four  leaves  at  the  present  time  or  earlier.  When  the  trees  are 
not  fully  formed  allow  the  leading  shoots  to  extend  without  any 
stopping.  Any  other  shoots  intended  to  form  branches  must  have 
uninterrupted  growth,  and  be  trained  in  the  desired  direction  as  they 
extend.  In  the  case  of  yonng  trees  lateral  or  fore-right  shoots  will  only 
appear  on  the  older  parts  of  the  trees,  and  these  may  be  shortened  or 
thinned  out  in  the  usual  manner. 
Outdoor  Figs.— Secure  young  shoots  to  the  wall  at  such  distances 
apart  so  as  to  leave  ample  space  between  each  for  the  full  exposure 
of  the  leaves  to  light  and  air.  Allow  these  shoots  to  grow  full  length  ; 
they  do  not  require  stopping  at  any  period  of  the  current  year’s  growth. 
By  this  desirable  regulation  it  will  be  seen  which  shoot  it  is  neces¬ 
sary  to  remove  entirely.  Do  not  choose  tbe  very  fat  or  sappy  shoots  for 
laying  in,  except  it  is  necessary  to  furnish  a  large  vacant  place  and 
better  conditioned  wood  cannot  be  had. 
Black  Currants. — The  removal  of  worn-out  branches  may  be 
carried  out  when  the  fruit  has  been  gathered.  Reserve  all  the  strong 
young  shoots  issuing  from  the  base  of  trees,  allowing  them  to  extend 
full  length. 
Bed  and  White  Currants. — Shorten  the  side  or  lateral  growths 
to  the  third  leaf  from  their  base.  Leave  the  extension  shoot  intact. 
This  treatment  assists  in  plumping  up  the  buds  at  the  point  of  origin  by 
diverting  the  flow  of  sap  thereto. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — For  Early  Forcing  in  Pots. — Those  intended  to  be  started 
the  first  week  in  November  for  ripening  the  fruit  in  March  or  early 
April  should  by  this  time  have  completed  their  growth,  and  must  not 
have  any  more  water  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  from  becoming  limp. 
Expose  fully  to  light  and  sun,  so  as  to  thoroughly  ripen  the  wood  and 
plump  the  buds.  If  the  la'erals  have  been  allowed  to  extend  with  a 
view  of  thickening  the  cane  they  must  be  brought  back  gradually  by 
cutting  away  part  at  a  time,  reducing  each  by  degrees  to  one  leaf.  The 
Vines  should  be  kept  free  from  insects,  syringing  occasionally  if  red 
spider  appear,  for  it  is  important  that  the  leaves  perform  their  functions. 
\Vhen  the  wood  becomes  brown  and  bard  place  the  Vines  on  a  board 
in  front  of  a  south  wall,  securing  the  canes  to  its  surface  to  prevent 
the  foliage  being  damaged  by  wind.  Afford  water  only  to  prevent 
flagging  of  the  leaves,  cut  away  the  laterals  close  to  the  rod,  and  in  a 
few  days  shorten  the  cane  to  the  length  required.  The  principal  leaves 
most  not  be  injured  but  left  to  die  off  naturally.  The  best  varieties  for 
early  forcing  are  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh, 
and  Madresfield  Court.  I.ater  canes  should  be  encouraged  to  perfect  a 
good  growth,  keeping  tbern  clean,  also  exposed  to  all  the  light  and  sun 
possible.  They  must  neither  be  over- watered  nor  neglected  for  due  supplies. 
It  is  better  to  keep  the  soil  on  the  dry  rather  than  wet  side.  Gut-backs 
are  much  the  best  for  early  forcing,  as  the  Vines  make  an  earlier  and 
sturdier  growth,  and  perfect  it  sooner  than  others.  This  is  important, 
for  the  Vines  have  more  rest  and  start  with  greater  regularity. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — As  a  rule  it  is  not  ^visable  to 
force  Vines  year  after  year  to  ripen  their  crops  before  May  or  June,  and 
houses  which  are  started  in  December  or  at  the  new  year  to  afford  ripe 
fruit  at  the  times  mentioned  are  best  planted  with  varieties  that  ripen 
together,  the  houses  being  of  suflScient  size  only  to  afford  a  supply  of 
Grapes  for  the  establishment  for  a  period  of  not  more  than  six  to  eight 
weeks.  That  is  as  long  as  black  Grapes  will  hang  on  the  Vines  under  a 
June  and  July  sun  without  turning  red,  or  white  Grapes  keep  from 
becoming  brown  on  the  exposed  side  of  the  bunches,  even  when  a  slight 
shade  is  afforded  from  sun.  Such  an  arrangement  admits  of  tbe  foliage 
being  cleansed  with  water  from  a  syringe  or  engine,  but  in  a  house 
planted  with  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Buckland  Sweet¬ 
water,  Mill  Hill  Hamburgh,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court  to 
ripen  their  crops  in  May,  Muscat  of  Alexandria  in  June,  and  Gros 
Colman  with  Trebbiano  in  July,  as  we  have  had  in  charge,  the  warm 
and  comparatively  dry  atmosphere,  consequent  on  the  constant  ventila¬ 
tion  essential  to  the  ripening  of  the  early  varieties,  causes  red  spider  to 
increase  on  the  foliage  of  the  Muscats  and  other  late  sorts  before  they 
are  ripe,  whilst  the  foliage  of  the  early  varieties  is  almost  all  gone  by 
the  time  the  late  sorts  have  the  Grapes  fit  for  table.  This  is  most 
disastrous  to  present  and  future  crops  of  Grapes — indeed,  mixed  collec¬ 
tions  are  not  satisfactory.  It  is  far  better  to  divide  a  large  house  into 
two  or  three  compartments,  so  that  the  respective  kinds  may  have  their 
proper  treatment.  Early  Vines  that  ripened  their  crops  in  May  or  early 
June  will  soon  be  cleared  of  Grapes  ;  they  should  then  be  thoroughly 
cleansed,  employing  an  insecticide  if  necessary,  and  the  foliage  preserved 
in  health  as  long  as  possible  by  occasional  syringings,  full  ventilation 
constantly,  and  due  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure  at  the  roots, 
Afuseats  Ripening. — Although  the  season  has  been  exceptionally 
fine,  fire  heat  is  necessary  to  insure  the  perfect  maturation  of  Muscats. 
When  fire  heat  is  dispensed  with  there  is  danger  of  the  Grapes  spotting, 
this  being  induced  by  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries.  It 
is,  therefore,  necessary  to  have  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes,  and  a 
little  air  constantly  to  prevent  condensation.  The  time  taken  by  Muscats 
to  ripen  is  never  less  than  eight  or  nine  weeks  from  commencing  to 
colour,  and  if  the  Grapes  are  extra  fine,  and  the  Vines  vigorous,  perfect 
finish  is  not  generally  had  under  three  months.  They  require  time  and 
artificial  assistance  so  as  to  secure  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°, 
75°  to  80°  by  day,  and  5°  to  10°  more  from  bright  sun.  A  rather  dry 
atmosphere  is  essential  to  that  golden  hqe  characteristic  of  rich  and 
full  Muscat  fl.avour.  This  is  secured  by  free  ventilation,  a  little 
constantly,  but  the  atmosphere  must  not  become  arid,  damping  down 
occasionally.  In  large  houses  the  moisture  arising  from  the  borders  is 
enough  except  in  hot  weather,  then  the  paths  and  borders  should  be 
damped  daily.  Abundant  supplies  of  water  must  be  given  at  the 
roots,  for  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  moisture  the  Grapes  shrivel. 
Young  Vines. — Those  planted  this  season  may,  provided  they  are  to 
be  cut  back  to  the  bottom  of  the  trellis,  or  to  two  or  three  buds  at  the 
winter  pruning,  be  allowed  to  grow  unchecked  so  as  to  secure  a  good 
root  formation  and  sturdy  stems.  Any  Vines  intended  for  next  year’s 
fruiting  should  have  tbe  laterals  issuing  from  the  sides  of  the  buds  to 
which  they  are  to  be  shortened,  stopped  to  one  leaf,  and  the  principal 
leaves  kept  free  of  growths.  If  permanent  canes  the  growth  need  not 
be  stopped  until  it  has  reached  the  top  of  the  house,  shortening  it  at  the 
winter  pruning  to  three  good  buds  from  the  bottom  of  the  rafters  or 
trellis,  and  only  allowing  each  Vine  to  bear  a  bunch  of  Grapes  in  the 
second  year  to  prove  the  variety.  Supernumeraries  intended  for  next 
■year’s  bearing  should  be  stopped  at  a  length  of  7  or  8  feet,  pinching  the 
laterals  to  one  leaf,  and  sub-laterals  in  like  manner.  These  should  be 
shortened  in  September,  and  by  degrees  cut  away  close  to  the  cane,  and 
in  a  fortnight  afterwards  the  Vines  should  be  pruned  to  the  first  plump 
bud  below  the  stopping,  leaving  the  old  leaves  to  die  off  naturally. 
Thorough  ripening  of  the  wood  is  important,  a  free  circulation  of  air 
being  necessary,  with  fire  heat  if  the  weather  be  cold  and  wet. 
Scalding. — As  usually  occurs  in  hot  and  droughty  seasons,  Grapes 
have  scalded  and  the  leaves  of  Vines  scorched  to  a  greater  extent  than 
ordinary,  which  usually  prevails  where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large  and 
the  ventilation  inadequate,  but  it  also  occurs  often  through  neglect  of 
early  ventilation  and  a  gentle  heat  in  the  hot- water  pipes,  so  as  to  main¬ 
tain  a  buoyant  atmosphere.  Farious  reasons  have  been  ascribed  for 
scalding,  but  there  is  no  question  that  it  is  accelerated  by  the  same 
conditions  that  cause  the  foliage  to  scorch.  Both  can  be  avoided  by 
careful  attention  to  the  temperature  and  ventilation.  Air  should  be 
admitted  rather  freely,  especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  with  a 
little  warmth  in  tbe  pipes  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  70°  artificially, 
also  65°  to  70°  at  night,  with  sufficient  air  to  allow  of  a  circulation.  It 
is  most  prevalent  in  Lady  Downe’s,  and  in  leaser  degree  on  Muscats,  but 
Hamburghs  and  other  varieties  will  scald,  as  shown  this  season  in  many 
places,  especially  where  the  Grapes  are  exposed  to  the  fierce  rays  of 
powerful  sun  after  a  period  of  dull  weather.  It  chiefly  occurs  at  the 
close  of  the  stoning  period,  a  few  weeks  before  the  Grapes  commence 
colouring.  A  slight  shade  is  advantageous  at  this  period  and  during 
the  early  stages  of  ripening  in  houses  with  large  panes  of  glass,  par¬ 
ticularly  for  Muscats,  a  double  thickness  of  herring  nets  drawn  over  the 
roof  lights  being  of  great  service  in  breaking  the  fierce  rays  of  tbe  sun 
from  mid-June  to  the  latter  part  of  July  or  August,  according  to  the 
time  of  the  Grapes  finishing  ^toning.  Some  vineries  ^re  the  ^tter  foy 
