July  te,  i89e. 
.romKAL  OF  no  'RTrCULTVkF  AND  COTTAGF  OAFFFkRk, 
69 
a  <>light  shade  during  the  hot  sammer  months.  This  applies  to  those 
with  laree  panes  of  glass  and  clear,  especially  in  the  northern  parts  of 
the  kingdom. 
Shanking. — This  is  one  of  the  most  tantalising  of  Grape  Vine 
diseases,  and  certainly  is  intimately  connected  with  nutrition,  inducing 
a  morbid  condition.  SSuspended  root  action  at  the  critical  period,  when 
the  Grapes  change  colour  for  ripening  has  been  assigned,  but  it  fre¬ 
quently  occurs  where  the  roots  are  active  in  the  surface  dressings  or 
mulchings,  yet  the  main. roots  are  generally  in  an  unsatisfactory  con¬ 
dition  through  the  closeness  of  the  border,  or  lack  of  gravelly  matter  in 
the  soil  to  keep  it  sweet  and  afford  a  suitable  rooting  medium  and 
available  wholesome  food.  To  avoid  it,  properly  made  borders  or  soil 
of  suitable  staple,  with  thorough  drainage  and  well  managed  Vines  are 
essential.  The  foliage  must  be  fully  exposed  to  light,  and  at  no  tTme 
should  root  action  be  encouraged  by  a  thicket  of  growth,  which  must 
sooner  or  later  be  removed  in  quantity,  and  give  a  check  accelerating 
the  failure  of  supplies  when  most  needed  for  transference  of  the  juices, 
bat  contrariwise,  keeping  as  much  foliage  as  can  have  due  exposure  and 
no  more  in  a  healthy  state,  so  that  the  supplies  of  nutriment  may  be 
properly  maintained.  Vines  prone  to  shank  should  be  given  time, 
avoiding  sudden  fluctuations  of  temperature,  paying  particular  atten¬ 
tion  to  the  ventilation,  thereby  securing  a  steady  elaboration  and 
proper  development  of  chlorophyll  and  starch.  This  securement 
can  only  be  attained  by  judicious  ventilation  in  the  early  stages  of 
development,  not  keeping  the  air  too  moist,  to  as  to  insure  firm  textured 
foliage,  and  sturdy,  short- jointed  wood.  The  young  growths  must  be 
kept  well  regulated,  adopting  the  extension  rather  than  the  restricted 
system,  where  there  is  room  for  it  without  crowding,  keeping  all 
gross  laterals  stopped  so  as  to  cause  an  equal  flow  of  sap  throughout 
the  Vines,  and  this  will  do  much  to  prevent  the  liability  to  shank. 
The  great  cause  however,  of  shanking  is  unsuitable  border  material, 
inefficient  drainage,  or  roots  deep  in  a  staple  more  suitable  than 
the  surface  soil.  Heavy  coatings  of  manure  in  autumn  or  winter 
allowed  to  become  soapy,  soddening  and  souring  the  soil,  and  then 
exposing  the  surface  to  the  heat  and  drought,  are  certain  means  of 
securing  shanked  Grapes.  Souring  the  soil  with  liquid  manure  whilst 
it  is  saturated  and  cold  destroys  what  few  fibrelets  remain,  and  the 
Grapes  shank  ;  in  fact,  the  evil  is  commonly  a  result  of  error  in  treat¬ 
ment.  Sometimes,  however,  it  arises  from  defective  nutrition,  it  being 
important  that  Vines  have  proper  supplies  of  phosphates,  sulphates, 
nitrates,  and  chlorides  in  order  to  build  up  their  structures  healthfully. 
These  are  usually  supplied  in  suitable  form  in  the  artificially  com¬ 
pounded  fertilisers,  and  it  is  well  known  that  where  there  is  a  judicious 
use  of  them  there  is  fewer  diseases  than  under  the  old  regime. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Kidney  Beans. — Dwarf  or  Kidney  Beans  can  be  more  easily  pro¬ 
tected  than  running  kinds,  and  a  few  late  dishes  are  usually  appreciated. 
With  a  view  to  having  these  sow  seeds  now  of  either  Canadian  Wonder, 
Sion  House,  or  Ne  Plus  Ultra.  Select  somewhat  high  ground  as  being 
the  least  aSected  by  autumn  frost,  and  a  position  convenient  for  matting 
over  the  rows  whenever  necessary.  Ground  that  was  well  manured  for 
early  Potatoes  would  be  in  excellent  condition  for  these  Beans.  Open 
moderately  deep  drills,  20  to  24  inches  apart,  well  moisten,  and  then  sow 
the  seeds  thinly.  Duly  thin  out,  mould  up,  and  lightly  stake  the  plants. 
Stake.8  can  be  dispensed  with,  but  if  used  serve  to  protect  the  plants 
when  roughly  covered  over  with  mats. 
Cabbage.— Daring  the  first  three  weeks  in  July  a  good  portion  of 
spring  Cabbage  seed  should  be  sown.  The  colder  and  naturally  later  the 
district  the  earlier  ought  seeds  to  be  sown,  and  on  or  aoout  July  21st 
is  a  favourite  date  for  sowing  in  some  of  the  more  southern  parts 
of  the  country.  Give  the  preference  to  well  tried  varieties,  or  thoie 
known  to  stand  while  others  “  bolt,”  and  depend  principally  on  these, 
also  giving  novelties  a  trial.  Either  sow  in  shallow  drills  o  inches  apart, 
or  else  thinly  broadcast.  Watering  the  drills  or  seed  bed  prior  to  sowing, 
and  covering  with  fine  dry  soil  is  the  surest  way  of  promoting  an  early 
and  strong  germination  of  seeds.  Moistening  the  ground  with  liquid 
manure  also  favours  a  strong  start,  and  the  seedlings  are  less  liable  to 
destruction  by  the  Turnip  flea  accordingly.  Directly  the  seedlings  show 
through  the  soil  dust  them  over,  while  yet  the  dew  is  on  them,  with  toot 
and  lime  by  way  of  preventive  of  flea  and  slug  attack.  Make  another 
sowing  directly  it  is  seen  the  first  has  failed,  and  in  any  case  from  a 
fortnight  to  three  weeks  later  than  the  earliest  sowing.  Sometimes  the 
earliest  raised  plants  fail  in  the  spring,  and  those  obtained  later  do  not, 
or  it  may  be  the  first  sowing  only  will  succeed  well. 
Carrots.— Dry  hot  weather  has  been  most  unfavourable  to  seed- 
sowing,  but  there  is  yet  time  to  raise  a  serviceable  breadth  of  young 
Carrots  for  late  antumn  and  winter  irse.  The  larger  Horn  varieties  are 
the  best  for  the  present  sowing.  A  warm  border  previously  occupied  by 
early  Potatoes,  Peas,  or  saladiog  would  be  suitable.  Draw  shallow  drills 
8  inches  apart,  water,  sow  the  seeds  somewhat  thinly,  and  cover  with  fine 
soil.  In  cold  districts  frame  culture  might  commence  aow ;  but  the 
end  of  July  is  early  enough  for  this  in  most  localities. 
Parsley. — Where  Parsley  fails  quickly,  or  not  enough  of  it  has 
already  been  raised,  seeds  should  be  sown  at  once.  Sometimes  compara¬ 
tively  small,  late-raised  plants  stand  through  a  severe  winter  better  than 
extra  strong  plants,  and  in  any  case  it  is  not  often  too  much  of  it  is 
grown.  Garlic  and  Shallots  are  in  many  instances  sufficiently  matured 
for  drawing  and  harvesting,  and  if  Parsley  has  not  already  been  planted 
between  the  rows  either  plant  or  sow  it  in  quick  succession. 
Winter  Spinach. — Ground  for  this  important  crop  ought  to  be 
veil  prepared.  As  a  rale,  early  and  second  early  Potatoes  can  be  dug 
soon  enough  for  Spinach  to  form  a  succession,  and  these  leave  the  ground 
in  good  condition  for  most  crops.  Fork  over  a  second  time,  breaking 
down  all  lamps,  afterwards  stirring  in  a  dressing  of  newly  slaked  lime. 
If  the  weather  happens  to  be  hot  and  dry  do  not  wait  many  days  for 
rain,  but  water  if  need  be.  giving  enough  to  well  moisten  the  lumps. 
Open  shallow  drills  12  to  15  inches  apart,  water  if  dry,  and  sow  the 
seeds  thinly.  Either  the  prickly  or  round  seeded  varieties  are  suitable 
for  this  sowing. 
Xiate  Peas. — It  is  too  late  to  sow  Ne  Pius  Ultra,  British  Queen, 
Latest  of  All,  and  other  late  Peas  of  good  repute  ;  but  in  the  warmer 
parts  of  the  country  seeds  may  be  sown  of  early  and  second  early  varie¬ 
ties  with  every  likelihood  of  a  few  acceptable  dishes  being  had.  The 
dwarf  early  varieties  of  the  William  Hurst  type  frequently  succeed  well 
when  sown  at  this  late  date.  Seeds  saved  this  season  are  the  best  to 
sow,  stronger  plants  resulting  from  these  fhan  from  old  seeds.  A  heavy 
mulching  of  strawy  manure  is  of  great  benefit  to  late  Pess  generally,  as 
this  obviates  the  ueceesity  for  frequent  drenchings  with  water. 
Tomatoes. — Open  air  plants  will  not  set  and  swell  off  heavy  crops 
of  fruit  if  in  a  dry  state  at  the  roots.  Especially  do  they  require  to  be 
given  a  good  soaking  of  water  during  dry  weather  in  July.  Neglect  this 
precaution,  and  the  chances  are  many  flowers  will  fail  to  expand,  prema¬ 
ture  dropping  taking  place.  More  than  an  ordinary  fall  of  rain  is  needed 
to  re-moisten  dry  soil  about  the  hungry  Tomato  roots,  and  an  occasional 
soaking  of  liquid  manure,  followed  by  a  mulching  of  strawy  manure, 
would  benefit  most  of  the  plants  during  an  average  summer.  Keep  all 
superfluous  shoots,  notably  those  forming  at  the  axils  of  the  leaves  and 
at  joints  underground,  closely  cut  out,  exception  being  made  in  favour 
of  those  plants  where  there  is  room  for  an  extra  one  or  more  leading 
growths.  When  they  fork,  as  strong  leaders  are  apt  to  do,  reserve  that 
to  which  a  bunch  of  flowers  is  attached  and  cut  away  the  other.  Avoid 
the  common  mistake  of  cutting  away  the  primary  leaves  directly  the 
fruit  is  becoming  conspicuous,  as  this  unnatural  proceeding  greatly 
militates  against  both  the  weight  and  quality  of  the  crop.  Should  the 
leaves  be  extra  large  and  thick,  to  the  extent  of  unduly  smothering 
the  fruit,  they  may  be  reduced  to  two-thirds  of  their  original  dimensions, 
but  wholesale  defoliation  ought  to  be  deferred  till  the  autumn. 
Turnips. — While  dry  hot  weather  lasts  it  is  almost  useless  to  sow 
Turnip  seeOs,  but  directly  a  vacant  plot  of  ground  previously  occupied 
by  early  and  second  early  Potatoes  has  had  a  good  soaking  then  it  ought 
to  be  quickly  cropped  with  Turnips.  Snowball,  Pved  Globe,  and  Chirk 
Castle  Blackstone — the  latter  extensively — may  well  be  sown,  and  those 
who  like  yellow  fleshed  Turnips  should  include  Orange  Jelly  in  their 
list  of  varieties  sown  now.  The  rows  of  the  Chirk  Castle  variety  may 
be  arranged  12  inches  apart,  allowing  another  3  inches  for  the  rest. 
Ward  off  the  Turnip  flea  by  means  of  soot  and  lime  dressings.  Where 
birds  greatly  interfere  with  Turnip  or  Cabbage  seeds  moisten  the  latter 
in  a  damp  cloth  and  then  roll  them  in  red  lead.  When  thus  treated 
prior  to  sowing,  seeds  are  rarely  touched  by  birds. 
I 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Sections. 
These  should  be  removed  from  the  hives  when  filled,  and 
properly  sealed  over.  A  properly  finished  section  should  be 
perfectly  white,  s  nooth,  well  capped  over,  without  any  pop  holes. 
The  latter  are  usually  found  at  the  bottom  corners  of  the  section, 
and  are  kept  open  by  the  bees  for  passing  from  one  to  the  other. 
These  are  not  objected  to  by  dealers  if  they  are  otherwise  of  good 
quality  and  of  the  proper  weight,  which  thev  should  be  if  of  the 
correct  dimensions — namely,  by  4.|  by  2  inches.  When  well 
filled,  sections  of  this  size  invariably  hold  1  lb.  of  honey. 
If  extra  good  well  finished  sections  are  required  for  exhibition  • 
or  other  special  purpose,  full  sheets  of  foundation  must  be  used. 
If  these  are  placed  on  a  strong  colony  of  bees  at  the  commence¬ 
ment  of  the  honey  flow  the  result  will  be  well-finished  sections, 
with  all  the  above  good  qualities. 
For  general  purposes,  however,  I  do  not  advocate  the  use  of  full 
sheets  of  foundation,  as  the  midrib  is  always  thicker  than  when 
the  combs  are  naturally  built  by  the  bees  ;  and  where  a  number  of 
stocks  is  kept,  and  the  majority  worked  for  comb  honey,  the  bill  for 
super-foundation  alone  will  be  rather  a  serious  item,  consequently 
I  usually  prefir  strips  of  inch,  more  or  less,  as  the  case  may  be. 
Naturally  built  comb  has  another  advantage — which  is,  that  the 
consumer  prefers  it ;  and  when  a  bee  keeper  has  a  reputation  for 
snoplying  an  article  that  may  be  relied  on,  he  has  less  difficulty  in 
finding  a  market  for  his  produce. 
Of  course,  this  is  much  easier  done  in  the  country  than  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  towns,  as  in  the  former  one  can  teli  from  what 
.source  the  honey  is  obtained,  and  what  the  quality  is  likely  to  be. 
But  not  io  in  the  latter,  as  bees  obtain  certain  sweets  from 
confectioners  and  others,  which  is  not  honey,  and  store  it  in  their 
hives.  I  am  reminded  of  the  fact  by  a  bee-keeper  who  called  to 
see  me  during  the  past  week.  He  informed  me  that  within 
fj 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
•  ■  I  .  I  .  I  ■  I  -  I  -  r.  r.  I  .  I  -  I  :-|-:-TT7  ;  I  ■  ,  ,  1 .1  ■  I  ■  I  .  I  ■  I  ,  I 
