July  SS,  iS98. 
JdtTRl^AL  OP  HORTiOULftJRP  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  ^ 
solid,  and  ot  excellent  flavour.  Vegetable  clasreB  were  won  by  Messrs. 
Lyon,  Hardcastle,  and  Rattray. 
The  prizes  for  epergnes  and  table  decorations  and  bouquets  fell  to 
Mrs.  E.  Shorrock,  Bccles,  with  charming  combinations,  Miss  Crook 
winning  with  an  original  painting  of  flowers  and  fruit.  Mr.  H.  Middle- 
hurst  had  a  certificate  awarded  for  a  choice  collection  of  Eckford's 
Sweet  Peas  ;  Messrs.  R.  P.  Ker  &  Sons,  Aigburth  Nursery,  for  a  grand 
stand  of  Cannas,  Lilinm  longiflorum,  beautiful  Crotons,  and  other 
miscellaneous  plants  ;  Mr.  C.  A.  Young,  Floral  Nursery,  West  Derby,  for 
a  stand  of  Carnations  in  all  the  finest  varieties,  clear  and  defined 
in  colour.  Cottagers  made  a  brave  display,  Mr.  J.  Rainford,  Whiston, 
winning  the  handsome  oak  clock  presented  by  the  Countess  of  Derby  for 
the  best  kept  cottage  garden  out  of  seventeen  entries.  Messrs. 
Hustwayte,  Pye,  Jackson,  Forrester,  Lyon,  and  Rainford  were  the  most 
successful.  Messrs.  Airey  and  Middlehurst  undertook  all  the  duties  in 
a  thorough  manner. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  XTectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees, — Trees  started 
at  the  new  year  have  been  cleared  of  fruit.  Wood  on  which  the  fruit 
has  been  borne  should  be  removed  unless  required  for  extension.  This, 
and  the  taking  out  of  supeifluous  growths,  admits  air  and  light  favour¬ 
able  to  the  ripening  of  the  wood  and  the  proper  formation  of  the  buds. 
That  is  contingent  upon  clean  foliage  and  proper  supplies  of  nutriment. 
The  trees,  therefore,  must  be  syringed,  and  if  necessary  have  an  approved 
insecticide  promptly  applied,  supplying  water,  and  in  the  case  of  weakly 
trees  liquid  manure  to  the  roots,  or  a  top-dressing  of  artificially  com¬ 
pounded  fertiliser  ;  but  not  of  a  highly  nitrogenous  nature,  as  that 
substance  might  promote  growth.  Mulching  with  spent,  rather  lumpy 
manure  an  inch  or  two  thick  will  keep  the  surface  moist,  the  roots 
active,  prevent  the  soil  cracking,  and  assist  in  the  retention  of  the 
foliage  in  health.  The  buds  will  be  sufficiently  advanced  and  the  wood 
matured  to  allow  the  roof  lights  to  be  removed.  This  secures  a  sort  of 
rest,  has  a  most  beneficial  effect  on  the  trees,  while  the  soil  becomes  well 
moistened  by  the  autumn  rains.  Where  the  roof  lights  are  fixed  ventilate 
to  the  fullest  extent. 
Succession  Houses. — The  fruit  is  ripening  on  trees  started  in  February. 
Where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large  a  slight  shading  benefits  the  tender- 
skinned  varieties,  such  as  Noblesse.  Plenty  of  air  is  necessary  during 
the  ripening  period,  and  though  water  must  he  kept  from  the  fruit,  an 
occasional  damping  of  the  floors  will  benefit  the  foliage.  As  the  fruit  is 
cleared  off  the  trees  cut  out  the  wood  that  has  borne  it,  thinning  the 
growths  where  they  are  so  close  that  the  foliage  cannot  have  proper 
exp  sure.  Cleanse  the  foliage  ot  dust  and  insects  by  forcible  syringing, 
using  an  insecticide  if  necessary.  Keep  the  borders  moist,  not  soddened, 
using  liquid  manure  if  the  trees  are  weak  and  the  buds  are  not  develop¬ 
ing  well.  Stop  all  laterals  to  one  joint,  but  where  the  buds  are  advanced 
allow  a  little  lateral  extension. 
Trees  Started  in  March. — The  fruit  has  stoned  and  is  taking  the  last 
swelling.  Draw  the  leaves  aside,  and  raise  the  fruit  by  means  of  laths 
with  its  apex  to  the  light.  Water  the  inside  border  and  outside  if 
inclined  to  dryness,  affording  liquid  manure  and  a  mulch  of  lumpy 
manure.  Ventilate  early,  in  fact  leave  a  little  air  on  constantly,  syringe 
by  7  P  M.,  and  through  the  early  part  of  the  day  ventilate  freely.  When 
the  sun  loses  power  in  the  afternoon  reduce  the  ventilation,  and  raise 
the  temperature  to  85°  or  90°  about  4  p  m,,  with  a  good  damping  of 
surfaces,  but  it  must  be  done  with  judgment.  Directly  the  fruit 
commences  ripening  cease  wetting  it,  but  afford  air  moisture  by  damping 
available  surfaces,  especially  the  border  whenever  it  becomes  dry, 
ventilating  rather  freely,  and  admitting  a  little  air  throughout  the  night. 
Late  Houses. — Regulate  and  tie  down  the  shoots  as  they  advance, 
allowing  sufficient  only  for  next  year’s  fruiting,  or  for  furnishing  the 
trees.  As  the  fruit  is  earlier  than  usual  ventilate  freely  day  and  night, 
but  do  not,  as  a  rule,  have  recourse  to  shading,  though  a  light  material, 
such  as  a  herring  net,  drawn  over  the  roof  lights  is  beneficial  where  the 
pates  of  glass  are  large. 
Wall  Cases — Fruit  of  Alexander  was  ripe  on  July  let.  Early  Louise 
on  the  10th.  Thus  Peaches  may  be  bad  this  year  for  three  months  in 
succession  from  these  simple  and  inexpensive  structures.  Apricots 
have  also  ripened  splendidly  ;  they  delight  in  the  cool  treatment  and  the 
free  ventilation.  Secure  the  growths  to  the  trellis,  being  careful  to 
allow  space  in  the  ties  for  the  swelling  of  the  shoots  ;  neglect  of  this 
J  is  the  precursor  of  gum.  Let  tbe  growths  be  so  thin  that  the  foliage 
has  proper  exposure  to  light.  Have  a  little  ventilation  constantly, 
increasing  this  with  the  ad  vancing  temperature  to  76°.  Syringe  about 
7  A  M.,  and  again  at  6  P.M.  Afford  liquid  manure  to  weak  and  heavily 
cropped  trees.  Thin  finally  directly  the  fruit  is  stoned.  Neglect  of 
early  thinning  results  in  thin-fleshed,  flavourless  fruits. 
Figs. — Trees  in  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — Keep  free  from  red 
spider  by  syringing  twice  a  day.  Afford  liquid  manure  to  the  roots. 
Pinching  should  cease  for  the  season  as  the  first  crop  Figs,  the  mo.st 
important  in  early  work,  are  produced  on  well  ripened  wo^.  Each 
tree  must  have  space  for  development  and  exposure  to  light,  with  free 
ventilation  to  solidify  the  growth. 
Second  Crops. — Thin  finally,  reserving  the  fruits  at  tbe  base  of  the 
growths.  This  gives  the  current  crop  a  better  chance,  and  enhances  the 
prospect  for  the  ensuing,  as  tbe  embryonic  Figs  form  in  the  axils  of  the 
leaves  or  at  the  joints  near  the  extremities  of  the  current  wood  ;  but  all 
now  discernible  as  such  are  little  use,  therefore  remove  them.  This  will 
help  the  second  crop  immensely,  and  tbe  points  will  not  waste  their 
energies  on  incipient  fruit,  but  prepare  for  a  full  early  crop  another 
season,  which  is  the  great  point  to  aim  at,  as  anybody  can  grow  a  second 
crop  ;  bat  a  first  crop  is  another  affair.  Attend  regularly  to  stopping,  but 
do  not  practise  this  much  longer,  and  keep  the  points  well  exposed  to 
light.  Crowding  is  fatal  to  fruitfulness.  Liquid  manure  will  be  neces¬ 
sary,  according  to  the  vigour  of  the  trees  and  the  extent  of  the  rooting 
area.  Trees  in  narrow  borders  may  need  it  two  or  three  times  a  week, 
others  at  longer  intervals.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly,  increase  it 
early,  close  early  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  allowing  the  heat 
to  rise  to  90°,  then  the  fruit  will  swell  to  a  good  size.  When  ripening 
admit  air  freely,  always  some. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Propagatlngr  Finks  and  Carnations.  —  The  surest  way  of 
increasing  the  stock  of  Carnations  is  by  layering  the  strongest  or  best 
placed  shoots,  this  being  done  late  in  July  or  early  in  August ;  but  the 
Pinks  must  be  principally  rooted  from  cuttings  or  “  pipings,”  and  a 
considerable  number  of  Carnations  may  also  be  raised  in  the  same 
manner.  A  very  little  bottom  heat  is  necessary,  and  if  a  partially 
exhausted  hotbed  is  not  available  it  is  advisable  to  form  one  in  a  rather 
cool  position  with  equal  portions  of  leaves  and  well-prepared  stable 
manure.  The  frame  being  duly  set  on  this,  and  if  rather  deep,  half 
filled  with  the  shortest  of  the  heating  material,  about  6  inches  of  fine 
loamy  sandy  soil  should  be  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  bed,  and  this 
in  its  turn  faced  over  with  sharp  sand.  The  cuttings  ought,  where 
possible,  to  be  slipped  off  the  old  stems,  and  supposing  they  are  not 
more  than  5  inches  long  only  the  old  lower  leaves  should  be  trimmed 
off,  and  the  rough  lower  end  of  the  base  lightly  shortened  to  a  joint, 
and  many  of  these  also  will  root.  All  should  be  quickly  dibbled  in 
about  2  inches  apart  and  rather  less  than  1  inch  deep,  and  be  firmly 
fixed.  After  a  watering  has  been  given,  and  the  foliage  dried  again, 
place  on  tbe  lights  and  keep  the  frame  rather  close,  also  shade  from 
bright  sun  till  the  cuttings  are  rooted.  The  soil  must  not  be  allowed  to 
become  dry,  and  not  till  these  are  rooted  should  air  be  admitted  freely. 
If  frames  are  scarce  hand-lights  may  be  substituted,  but  only  in  warm 
and  rather  moist  districts  do  the  cuttings  root  freely  in  hand-lights  or 
frames  without  the  assistance  of  bottom  heat. 
Roses  from  Cuttings.  —  Own-root  Roses  are  so  useful  that  it 
becomes  all  the  more  necessary  to  attempt  summer  propagation. 
Some  varieties  can  be  rooted  in  tbe  summer  that  ab&olutely  refuse  to 
grow  from  cuttings  made  from  the  ripened  wood  in  the  autumn. 
Any  medium-sized  shcot  of  either  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Teas,  and 
Noisettes,  including  the  ever-popular  Mar^chal  Niel  and  Gloire  de 
Dijon,  is  after  it  has  flowered  suitaljle  for  making  into  a  cutting.  It 
should  be  cut  with  a  small  slice  or  “  heel  ”  of  old  wood  attached,  and 
be  shortened  to  the  third  or  fourth  joint,  only  quite  the  lowest  leaf  being 
removed.  Insert  these  firmly  round  tbe  sides  of  6-inch  pots  filled  with 
gritty  loamy  soil,  and  give  a  good  watering.  They  ought  then  to  be  set 
in  a  close  frame  or  hand-light  for  about  ten  days,  when  all  should^  be 
plunged  in  a  gentle  hotbed,  being  from  first  to  last  kept  close,  fairly 
moist,  and  shaded  from  bright  sunshine.  Whan  rooted  and  potted  singly 
into  3-inch  pots,  they  in  due  course  will  make  capital  plants  for  either 
pot  or  open  air  culture. 
Budding  Rose  Stocks. — In  many  instances  the  buds  ard  sufficiently 
advanced  for  the  purpose  of  being  inserted  in  either  Briar  or  Manetti 
stocks.  No  very  great  amount  of  skill  is  required,  young  beginners  not 
unfrequently  being  most  successful  in  their  budding  operations.  Very 
much  in  all  cases  depends  upon  the  state  of  the  stock — that  is  to  say, 
whether  the  bark  opens  freely  or  not,  and  it  is  also  of  importance  that 
the  small  shields  with  bud  and  much-shortened  leafstalk  attached  separate 
readily  from  the  wood.  Details  have  often  been  given,  and  it  is  scarcely 
necessary  to  repeat  them  here. 
HE 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Removing  Bell-glasses. 
In  country  districts,  where  bees  are  still  kept  in  tbe  old- 
fashioned  straw  skep,  bell-glasses  are,  with  few  exceptions,  the  only 
supers  used  to  obtain  comb  honey.  These  when  well  filled  and 
sealed  are  much  appreciated  and  admired  by  the  general  public. 
Some  bee-keepers  have  a  difficulty  in  clearing  them  of  bees,  often 
damaging  the  combs  in  doing  so.  It  is,  however,  a  very  simple 
operation,  but  should  not  be  attempted  before  the  combs  are  well 
finished,  and  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  hive  a  day 
longer  than  is  necessary,  or  the  capping#  will  become  dark  in  colour 
owing  to  the  bees  constantly  passing  over  them  with  their  dirty 
□rxT 
BEE-KEEPER 
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