140 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
Augus  1898, 
tbe  foliage  advantage  to  assimilate  food,  and  store  it  up  in  the  wood, 
whilst  the  buds  are  perfectly  formed.  Attend,  therefore,  to  thinning  and 
regulating  the  growths.  Gross  shoots  tend  to  impoverish  the  weaker, 
appropriate  an  undue  amount  of  sap,  prevent  an  equal  distribation  of 
the  nourishment,  and  are  seldom  fraitful.  They  mostly  fall  a  prey  to 
gam  disease,  and  are  best  removed  in  favour  of  less  exuberant  growths, 
striving  to  secure  an  even  spread  of  moderately  strong  short-jointed 
wood.  Ventilate  freely  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  allow  a  good  heat 
from  the  sun  through  the  day,  and  close  in  good  time  so  as  to  run  up  to 
S'-'’.  This  will  only  be  necessary  where  the  fruit  is  required  accelerated 
in  ripening.  Sun  heat  will  not  do  any  harm  after  evaporation  has  been 
going  on  for  some  time,  but  it  is  desirable  to  admit  a  little  air  before 
nightfall  to  allow  the  pent  up  moisture  to  escape,  and  the  gradual  cooling 
of  the  house  will  insure  rest.  Early  ventilation  is  necessary  for  the 
solidification  of  the  growth.  Forcible  syringings  will  keep  the  trees 
free  from  red  spider,  and  should  be  continued  until  the  fruit  com¬ 
mences  to  ripen.  Keep  the  borders  well  supplied  with  water  or  liquid 
manure. 
Melon*. — The  plants  to  afford  fruit  in  October  must  be  planted  at 
once,  giving  them  about  a  couple  of  barrowloads  each  of  soil,  made  into 
a  flattened  cone  about  12  inches  deep  in  the  centre.  Good  rather  strong 
loam  is  most  suitable,  with  a  fifth  of  sweetened  horse  droppings  and  a 
sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish.  Make  the  compost  very  firm,  and  have  it 
in  a  moist  state  before  planting.  Keep  the  stem  slightly  raised,  and 
water  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots.  Encourage  a  free  growth  by 
syringing  at  closing,  damping  the  paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  and 
evening  of  hot  days.  Ventilate  between  70°  and  7.^°,  and  keep  the 
temperature  through  the  day  at  those  figures  by  artificial  means,  85°  to 
90°  from  sun  heat,  and  close  so  as  to  raise  it  to  95°  to  100°.  Through 
the  night  the  temperature  may  fall  to  65°.  Where  very  late  Melons  are 
required  a  sowing  should  be  made  at  once,  the  plants  being  fit  to  plant 
out  in  about  a  month,  and  they  will  set  fruit  in  September,  which  will 
be  ripe  in  November  or  December.  It  is  no  use  attempting  to  grow  late 
Melons  without  command  of  a  light  well  heated  structure. 
In  order  to  have  fruit  of  good  finish  and  high  flavour  the  plants  must 
not  be  overburdened.  Two  fruits  on  a  weak,  three  on  a  moderately 
vigorous,  and  four  on  a  strong  plant  are  ample.  Large  and  very  strong 
plants  may  be  allowed  to  carry  six  fruits.  Overcropping  is  highly 
prejudicial  to  the  health  of  the  plants,  and  unless  the  foliage  is  kept  in 
good  condition  to  the  finish,  high  quality,  which  depends  on  solidity, 
cannot  be  secured,  therefore  keep  the  foliage  thin,  all  having  full 
exposure  to  light.  Earth  the  plants,  giving  copious  supplies  of  water 
and  liquid  manure  ;  the  drainings  of  stables,  not  containing  washings, 
should  be  diluted  with  six  times  the  bulk  of  water. 
When  the  fruit  is  ripening  the  atmosphere  should  be  kept  dry,  and  a 
top  heat  maintained  of  70°  to  75°  by  artificial  means,  admitting  a  little 
air  constantly,  a  circulation  of  rather  dry  warm  air  greatly  improving 
the  quality  and  finish  when  the  fruit  is  ripening.  Water  should  be 
withheld  from  the  house  unless  there  is  fruit  advancing  in  swelling, 
when  an  occasional  damping  will  be  necessary  for  the  benefit  of  the 
foliage. 
The  latest  plants  in  pits  and  frames  will  be  setting  their  fruit,  it 
being  important  that  this  be  effected  promptly  to  allow  time  for  the 
swelling  and  ripening.  Give  a  good  watering  before  the  flowers  open, 
and  line  the  sides  of  the  frame  and  bed  with  hot  manure  or  the  mowings 
of  lawns,  and  give  a  little  ventilation  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  lights 
until  the  fruit  is  set  and  commences  swelling.  This  prevents  the  depo¬ 
sition  of  moisture  on  the  blossoms  and  insures  a  good  set.  Fertilise  the 
flowers  daily,  and  when  sufficient  are  set  and  the  fruit  swelling  of  about 
equal  size  remove  all  flowers,  keeping  the  growths  thin  and  well  stopped, 
maintaining  a  warm  but  not  stagnant,  atmosphere  by  early  closing  with 
sun  heat.  Sprinkle  the  foliage  on  bright  afternoons,  and  afford  water  in 
bright  weather  about  twice  a  week. 
Cucumbers. — For  a  supply  of  fruit  during  the  winter  seed  should 
BOW  be  sown.  There  are  many  varieties,  but  none  surpasses  carefully 
selected  stocks  of  Telegraph,  Cardiff  Castle,  and  Sion  House.  The  plants 
will  be  ready  to  place  out  early  in  September,  and  in  a  light,  well-heated 
structure  will  commence  bearing  in  early  winter.  It  is  necessary  that 
the  house  be  thoroughly  cleansed  and  tbe  soil  free  from  eel  worm.  There 
is  nothing  better  for  cleansing  the  house  than  soluble  petroleum,  and  for 
the  soil,  heating  it  to  over  212°. 
Cherry  House. — The  trees  are  now  ripe  in  wood  and  plump  in  bud. 
The  leaves,  too,  will  not  be  capable  of  much  further  effort  in  elaborating 
the  sap  and  storing  food  in  the  adjacent  buds  and  wood,  therefore  any 
undue  excitement  will  cause  the  trees  to  start  into  growth,  which  must 
be  guarded  against  by  exposing  the  trees  to  atmospheric  influence  as  far 
as  the  house  will  admit.  The  border  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry, 
but  have  a  copious  supply  of  water,  and  if  the  trees  are  weak,  afford  liquid 
manure.  To  subdue  red  spider,  give  an  occasional  washing  with  the 
garden  engine  or  syringe  ;  but  by  all  means  remove  the  roof  lights,  the 
cleansing  influence  of  rain  and  invigorating  tendency  of  dew,  with  the 
thorough  moistening  of  tbe  border,  having  a  very  beneficial  effect.  Black 
aphides  are  very  troublesome  on  the  young  growths  of  Cherry  trees  :  but 
the  leaves  and  wood  of  this  season,  from  their  hard  texture,  are  net 
inviting  to  them,  yet  if  they  appear  promptly  use  tobacco  water,  the 
narcotic  being  fatal  to  these  hard-to-be-killed  insects.  Cherry  trees  in 
pots  are  the  most  interesting  of  all  fruits  grown  that  way,  and  offer  a 
variety,  and  afford  fruits  over  so  long  a  period,  that  it  is  remarkable  they 
are  not  more  generally  grown.  With  slight  forcing,  they  ripen  the  fruit 
in  May  ;  in  unheated  houses  the  fruit  ripens  in  June.  Trees  in  pots  must 
be  regularly  watered  and  syringed  to  maintain  them  in  health. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
violas  and  Pansies. — The  former,  if  properly  grown,  are  wonder¬ 
fully  effective  in  the  flower  garden  for  many  months  together.  They 
are  at  their  beat  from  April  to  August,  but  in  some  positions  and  under 
certain  conditions  will  keep  gay  still  longer.  When  they  fail  it  is  largely 
due  to  bring  planted  too  late.  Instead  of  being  kept  till  May  or  June 
in  store  boxes  or  beds  they  ought  to  be  put  out  early  in  April,  and  there 
will  then  be  little  or  no  mildew  to  spoil  the  plants.  Named  varieties  or 
any  unnamed  seedliuga  can  only  be  kept  true  by  means  of  cutting-raised 
plants,  and  the  cuttings  need  not  be  put  in  till  October.  In  order  to 
have  strong  seedlings  of  either  Violas  or  Pansies  fit  for  planting  out 
next  April  the  seed  ought  to  be  sown  now.  It  may  be  sown  in  either 
boxes  or  pans  filled  with  fine  soil,  and  these  should  be  placed  either  in  a 
frame  or  under  hand-lights  at  the  foot  of  a  north  wall.  Failing  these  con¬ 
veniences  place  the  boxes  in  a  cool  position  and  cover  with  squares  of 
glass.  Keep  the  soil  uniformly  moist  at  all  times,  and  shade  heavily  till 
the  seedlings  appear,  after  which  shade  from  bright  sunshine  only. 
Before  they  crowd  each  other  prick  out  the  seedlings  in  other  boxes  or  a 
frame,  using  light  loamy  soil,  and  during  the  winter  protect  from  severe 
frosts  only. 
Antlrrhlnnms  and  Pentstemons.  —  If  seed  of  either  of  these 
showy  border  perennials  is  sown  now  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Violas, 
and  the  seedlings  similarly  treated,  a  grand  lot  of  plants  will  be 
available  for  the  beds  and  borders  next  April.  Spring-raised  plants  are 
both  late  and  somewhat  shy  in  flowering,  whereas  those  raised  in  the 
autumn  flower  strongly  both  early  and  late.  They  would  really  survive 
most  winters  in  the  open,  but  can  be  more  surely  wintered  in  cold  frames 
and  without  much  trouble.  The  very  best  varieties  of  the  former, 
including  the  pure  white  form,  are  best  perpetuated  from  cuttings. 
Choice  or  named  Pentstemons  are  also  best  propagated  from  cuttings. 
Short  flowerless  shoots  of  either  Antirrhinums  or  Pentstemons  taken  off 
now  and  inserted  in  sandy  soil  under  hand-lights  or  shallow  frames,  and 
kept  close  and  shaded  from  sunshine,  will  root  freely  and  make  good 
plants  for  the  borders  early  next  spring. 
Blanttaases  and  Sweet  Williams.  —  The  former  are  largely 
raised  from  seed  sown  in  heat  early  in  the  spring,  but  stronger  and 
better  plants  altogether  can  be  had  by  sowing  now,  preferably  in  boxes, 
but  if  unavoidably  so  on  a  border  of  fine  soil.  The  partial  shade  and 
moist  position  found  behind  a  north  wall  is  also  the  best  place  for 
raising  these,  and  the  seedlings  may  either  be  pricked  out  on  a  warm 
border  or  wintered  under  glass.  Sweet  Williams  to  give  a  good  display 
ought  now  to  be  large  enough  to  prick  out  9  inches  apart  each  way  on  a 
warm  or  sheltered  border,  where  they  are  to  flower,  or  they  may  be  put 
out  twice  that  thickness  and  two-thirds  of  the  plants  moved  elsewhere 
next  autumn  or  spring.  If  seed  is  sown  now  it  should  be  where  the 
plants  are  to  flower,  and  thinly  in  drills  6  inches  apart. 
Other  Seeds  to  be  Sown. — If  either  Brompton  Stocks  or  Wall¬ 
flowers  are  sown  at  this  late  date  it  should  be  on  extra  well-prepared 
ground  where  the  plants  are  to  flower.  Sow  Silenes  at  once,  or  the 
plants  will  be  too  small  to  be  serviceable.  Forget-me-nots  would  also 
have  been  better  raised  earlier,  but  neat  little  plants  may  be  had  by 
sowing  now,  especially  if  this  is  done  in  boxes  and  these  given  the  benefit 
of  frame  shade  and  shelter  till  the  seedlings  are  growing  strongly.  In 
most  midland  and  northern  districts  the  middle  of  August  is  a  go<^  time 
to  sow  a  variety  of  hardy  annuals  and  biennials,  but  the  end  of  the 
month  answers  well  in  warmer  districts.  Some  of  the  most  serviceable 
for  the  spring  decoration  of  beds  and  borders  are  Sweet  Alyssum, 
Candytufts,  Clarkias,  Chrysanthemum  segetum,  Coreopsis  tinctoria, 
Cornflowers,  Eschscholtzias,  Godetias,  Larkspurs,  Limnanthes  Douglassi, 
Nemophila  insignia,  Saponaria  calabrica.  Scabious,  Venus’  Looking 
Glass,  Virginian  Stocks,  and  Viscaria  cardinalis.  Either  sow  thinly  in 
shallow  drills  where  the  plants  are  to  flower,  and  they  do  not  move  well 
out  of  light  soils,  or  else  in  a  sheltered  position,  transplanting  either  in 
the  autumn  or  early  next  spring. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Celery. — Where  the  rows  have  been  kept  well  supplied  with  water 
the  plants  have  made  good  progress.  Should  the  drought  continue  it 
will  be  advisable  in  many  instances  to  let  some  of  the  rows  take  their 
chance  of  rain,  giving  all  the  water  that  can  be  spared  to  the  rest. 
Unless  wanted  extra  early  there  should  be  no  undue  haste  in  starting 
the  blanching  process,  massing  soil  about  half-grown  Celery  greatly 
interfering  with  free  growth.  Let  this  operation  be  done  carefully  and 
progressively.  Celery  partially  moulded  up  requires  to  have  nearly  as 
much  water  supplied  to  the  roots  as  it  did  before  any  soil  was  placed 
about  them. 
Endive. — There  ought  to  be  no  further  delay  in  sowing  Endive. 
Unless  the  plants  are  grown  to  their  full  size  really  good,  well-blanched 
hearts  will  not  be  had.  A  free-working,  well-manured  soil  suits  this 
important  crop.  Make  this  fine,  level,  and  moderately  firm,  sowing 
seeds  of  Green  Curled  and  Improved  Broad-leaved  Batavian  thinly,  in 
drills  12  inches  apart.  If  the  ground  can  be  spared,  long  rows  or  several 
short  ones  can  thus  be  sown,  and  transplanting,  beyond  filling  up  blanks, 
largely  obviated.  If  preferred,  the  plants  can  be  raised  and  transplanted 
as  advised  in  the  calendar  for  June  2nd  last.  The  seed  will  germinate 
quickly,  and  in  showery  weather  must  be  kept  dusted  over  with  soot  and 
lime,  or  otherwise  slugs  may  clear  off  the  whole  of  the  plants  in  a  night 
or  two. 
Eeeks. — There  is  every  likelihood  of  vegetables  being  scarce  next 
winter,  so  little  planting,  as  yet,  having  been  done.  Planted  now,  they 
will  make  satisfactory  progress  before  cold  weather  sets  in,  added  to 
which  they  will  continue  to  increase  in  size  whenever  the  weather  is 
