August  fl,  1898. 
141 
JOVnnAL  OP  MORTIOULTUM  APO  COTTAGP  GARDRRRR, 
mild.  Celery -like  trenches  can  be  dispensed  with,  the  simpler  plan  of 
planting  in  freely  manured  ground,  answering  equally  well,  sometimes 
better.  Leeks  will  succeed  admirably  on  the  coldest  borders.  Dig  in 
manure  freely,  make  the  ground  fine  to  a  good  depth,  and  then  form 
holes  6  to  8  inches  deep,  and  12  inches  apart  each  way,  with  an  ordinary 
stout  dibber.  Into  each  of  these  drop  a  plant,  and  give  a  heavy  watering 
by  way  of  fixing.  The  Leeks  will  eventually  fill  up  the  holes,  and  may 
be  lifted  in  a  well  blanched  state  as  required. 
Potatoes. — Hot  weather  and  drought  have  unduly  hastened  the 
maturation  of  second  early  and,  in  many  instances,  late  main  crop 
Potatoes  as  well.  The  quality  is  good,  but  the  crops  in  most  districts  are 
light.  Although  the  tubers  are  “ripe,”  the  haulm,  in  many  instances, 
remains  comparatively  fresh.  If  left  undisturbed,  and  a  soaking  rain 
should  fall,  root  and  tuber  growth  will  recommence,  with  the  result  that 
the  first  crop  will  be  spoilt,  and  the  second  growth  not  mature  properly. 
It  would  be  more  satisfactory  in  the  end  to  lift  and  store  all  that  are 
sufficiently  matured.  This  will  liberate  the  ground  early  enough  for 
cropping  with  winter  vegetables.  The  late  maturing  varieties  are  still 
green,  and  growing  on  all  but  the  poorest  and  driest  of  soils. 
Inate  Planting. — Only  in  a  limited  number  of  gardens  are  Broccoli, 
Brussels  Sprouts,  and  Savoys  planted  in  suflSciently  large  quantities,  the 
plants  intended  for  putting  out  standing  in  a  starved,  badly  grub-eaten 
state  in  the  seed  beds  or  where  pricked  out.  Planting  them  out  is  so  much 
wasted  labour  in  such  an  exceptionally  hot  and  dry  season  unless  they 
can  be  kept  moist  at  the  roots  ;  yet  something  will  have  to  be  done,  or 
otherwise  green  vegetables  will  be  very  scarce  next  winter.  As  Potatoes 
are  cleared  off  the  ground,  open  sloping,  and,  if  the  plants  to  be  put  out 
are  leggy,  somewhat  deep  trenches,  and  in  these  lay  the  plants  with  their 
heads  just  above  the  soil,  while  the  roots  should  be  firmly  covered  with 
decayed  manure  and  watered,  prior  to  levelling  over  the  soil.  Should 
the  weather  remain  hot  and  dry,  give  an  occasional  heavy  watering, 
taking  care  that  the  roots  rather  than  the  heads  of  the  plants  get  it. 
Cauliflowers  are  more  than  usually  interfered  with  by  grubs  at  the  roots. 
This  can  be  prevented  by  means  of  the  old-fashioned  plan  of  puddling 
the  stems  and  roots  in  a  mixture  of  clay,  soot,  lime,  and  water.  It  is 
also  advisable  to  similarly  treat  all  the  Broccoli  and  other  members  of 
the  Brassica  family. 
Iiate  Tomatoes. — It  is  not  often  that  heavy  crops  of  fruit  set  after 
September.  By  the  end  of  that  month  the  plants  ought  to  be  well 
furnished  with  fruit,  this  swelling  and  ripening  slowly  during  the  late 
autumn  and  early  winter  months.  If  strong  young  plants  were  placed 
in  10-inch  or  larger  pots  at  once  and  duly  staked,  these  might  be  grown 
in  a  sunny  open  spot  till  the  first  or  second  week  in  September,  and  if 
properly  attended  to  would  have  good  crops  already  swelling  ofi  on  them 
As  Melons  or  Cucumbers  are  cleared  out  of  well  heated,  span-roofed 
houses,  Tomatoes  may  be  planted  in  succession.  Little  or  no  prepara¬ 
tion  of,  or  additions  need  be  made  to  the  soil,  a  ridge  of  it  being  ample 
for  single  rows  of  plants  along  the  fronts.  If  ridges  of  fresh  soil  are 
prepared  this  ought  not  to  be  very  rich  or  loose.  Old  plants  trained  up 
the  roofs  that  have  already  given  good  crops  of  fruit  might  be  made  to 
produce  winter  supplies.  If  they  have  not  been  starved  young  growths 
will  be  constantly  forming  on  them.  Reserve  and  lay  in  enough  of  these 
to  thinly  furnish  the  stems,  and  cut  away  all  superfluous  growth  and  the 
oldest  leaves.  Stopping  at  the  first  or  second  leaf  beyond  a  bunch  of 
flowers  strengthens  these  and  favours  perfect  setting.  If  dry  at  the 
roots  give  a  good  soaking  of  water,  and  afterwards  liquid  manure,  and  a 
tt  p-dre.‘8ing  of  loam  and  horse  droppings  would  also  do  good,  though 
not  if  it  misleads  as  to  the  necessity  for  watering  nearly  or  quite  as  often 
as  before  it  was  applied. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Tree  Carnations. — All  the  earliest  rooted  Carnations  are  growing 
rapidly  and  fast  filling  their  pots  with  roots.  They  must  have  weak 
stimulants  every  time  they  need  water,  clear  soot  water,  or  that  made 
from  cow  manure  being  good  for  them  ;  or,  better  still,  artificial  manure 
applied  to  the  surface  of  the  soil  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks.  If 
neglected  in  this  respect  growth  comes  to  a  standstill,  and  flower  spikes 
appear  before  they  are  wanted.  Plants  that  are  allowed  to  become  root- 
bound  early  in  the  season  are  almost  certain  to  come  into  flower  in  early 
autumn  long  before  they  are  wanted.  We  have  found  it  a  good  plan  to 
place  into  larger  pots  any  that  are  likely  to  become  root- bound  too 
early.  Every  care  is  needed  afterwards  for  a  time  in  watering  until  the 
roots  are  working  freely  amongst  the  fresh  soil.  Later  plants  may  be 
placed  into  their  largest  size,  those  6  inches  in  diameter  being  suitable. 
Such  varieties  as  Gloire  de  Nancy,  Souvenir  de  la  Malmalson,  and  others 
that  are  intended  for  flowering  early  indoors  in  6-inch  pots  next  season 
should  be  rooted  at  once,  either  by  layering  or  by  taking  off  the  cuttings 
and  insert  them  singly  in  small  pots,  placing  them  under  hand-lights 
in  a  cool  shady  position.  The  former  is  the  more  certain  method,  and 
the  one  we  gere.ally  adopt,  except  the  plants  from  which  the  cuttings 
are  to  be  obtained  are  in  pots  ;  then  they  are  rooted  under  hand-lights. 
Plants  of  these  varieties  that  flowered  in  6- inch  pots  and  have  been 
well  cared  for  since  are  now  in  8-inch  pots,  and  may  be  transterred  into 
others  2  inches  larger.  In  this  size  they  will  make  grand  plants,  and 
produce  six  to  eight  flower  stems  each,  that  will  prove  either  useful  for 
cutting  or  be  objects  of  beauty  in  the  conservatory.  If  given  green¬ 
house  treatment  during  the  winter  they  will  commence  producing  the  r 
flower  stems  early,  and  will  be  in  full  flower  towards  the  end  of 
April  and  throughout  the  following  month  without  unduly  forcing  them. 
Trencb  and  Fancy  Pelarg-onlums. — Young  plants  raised  from 
cuttings  that  were  pinched  and  hardened  to  cool  frame  treatment  directly 
they  were  rooted  may  now  be  placed  in  5-incb  pots.  The  soil,  which 
should  consist  oE  good  loam  and  one-seveuth  of  manure,  should  be  pressed 
firmly  into  the  pots  to  insure  a  firm  sturdy  growth.  These  plants  may 
be  kept  close  for  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  and  afterwards  grown  perfectly 
cool  in  frames  with  the  lights  off.  Pinch  the  shoots  when  they  have 
made  two  or  three  leaves  to  insure  their  remaining  dwarf.  The  shoots 
should  be  pinched  when  they  need  it  until  the  last  week  in  August  or 
the  first  week  of  the  following  month,  but  not  afterwards.  By  this 
treatment  they  will  have  broken  into  growth  again  by  the  time  they  are 
in  their  winter  quarters.  Old  plants  that  were  pruned  back  early  and 
started  again  into  growth  in  a  frame  may  now  have  the  old  soil  shaken 
from  their  roots  and  the  plants  repotted  in  fresh  soil,  placing  them  in 
much  smaller  pots,  repotting  them  as  growth  extends.  These  must  be 
kept  close  for  a  time  until  they  are  rooting  freely  in  the  new  soil,  when 
they  may  be  hardened  and  grown  under  airy  treatment.  Prune  plants 
that  have  been  well  ripened,  and  start  them  in  a  frame  until  they  break 
into  growth.  Those  that  are  now  going  out  of  flower  must  be  stood  for 
two  or  three  weeks  in  a  sunny  position  to  ripen  them  before  they  are 
pruned  back.  Harden  all  young  plants  raised  from  cuttings,  and  then 
grow  them  in  a  cool  house,  but  fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  Good  cuttings 
may  still  be  rooted,  and  for  this  purpose  it  is  better  to  top  the  earliest 
plants  than  to  insert  old  flower  stems. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. — Those  for  autumn  and  winter  flowering 
need  liberal  supplies  of  water  at  their  roots,  and  liquid  manure  two  or 
three  times  weekly,  or  every  time  water  is  needed,  according  to  the  con¬ 
dition  of  their  roots.  The  pots  in  every  case  should  be  well  crammed, 
the  wood  short-jointed  and  firm.  Decaying  leaves  and  flowers  as  they 
appear  should  be  removed.  Plants  that  have  grown  tali  may  be  cut  close 
back,  and  a  good  batch  of  cuttings  inserted  for  early  spring  flowering. 
Double  varieties  should  also  be  inserted  for  the  same  purpose,  and  for 
yielding  a  good  supply  of  trusses  for  cuttings  during  next  May,  June, 
and  July,  or  longer  if  needed.  Insert  them  singly  into  3-inch  pots,  in 
which  they  will  pass  the  winter  safely.  Cuttings  at  this  season  root  well 
either  outside  or  in  a  cold  frame. 
Adlantum  cuneatum. — Where  these  are  grown  expressly  for  cutting 
they  must  not  be  in  a  close  atmosphere,  or  they  will  wither  directly 
they  have  been  severed  from  the  plants  or  exposed  to  more  airy  con¬ 
ditions.  A  deep  green  colour  of  the  fronds  indicates  too  much  shade 
and  heat,  and  will  not  last.  The  young  fronds  on  plants  well  prepared 
should  have  a  reddish  hue,  and  those  fully  developed  a  light  green 
appearance;  This  is  the  result  of  light  airy  treatment.  Plants  that 
have  been  grown  soft  may  be  prepared  to  stand  well  if  they  are  care¬ 
fully  and  gradually  exposed  to  light  and  more  air,  but  they  are  never  so 
good  as  those  grown  under  these  conditions  from  the  first.  The  develop¬ 
ment  of  the  fronds  is  slower  and  the  plants  are  longer  before  they  attain 
a  large  size,  but  the  main  object  is  attained,  and  the  fronds  are  fit  for 
use  directly  they  are  well  developed.  In  the  end  it  is  economy  to 
prepare  the  plants  well  for  this  purpose,  for  less  than  half  will  give 
greater  satisfaction  and  less  trouble  than  double  the  number  grown 
under  close  treatment.  Young  plants  raised  from  f pores  in  spring  and 
now  in  3-inch  pots  may  be  placed  into  5-inch  pots,  in  which  they  will 
develop  a  good  number  of  fronds  before  winter,  and  make  large  plants 
another  year. 
Davalllas. — For  many  purposes  the  fronds  of  these  Ferns  are 
valuable,  because  they  last  fresh  for  a  long  time.  For  cutting  to  travel 
long  distances  and  last  well  after  they  reach  their  journey’s  end,  no  other 
Ferns  are  equal  to  them.  These,  like  Adiantums,  should  not  be  grown 
too  warm.  The  majority  of  kinds  suitable  for  this  purpose  will  do  well 
in  the  greenhouse  during  the  summer  months,  but  require  a  tempetature 
of  50®  during  the  winter.  D.  bullata,  D.  dissecta,  and  some  others  are 
not  inj ured  in  the  least  by  remaining  in  a  cool  house  the  whole  of  the 
winter.  Although  many  do  well  in  the  greenhouse  they  will  make 
more  rapid  progress  under  intermediate  conditions  until  the  plants 
attain  a  fair  size,  or  for  starting  them  into  growth  in  spring. 
Pterls  serrulata. — This  is  a  handsome  and  useful  Fern  for  decora¬ 
tion  in  small  pots,  and  lasts  well  in  rooms  and  other  positions  during  the 
winter.  A  good  number  of  seedlings  now  in  pans  and  boxes  should  be 
placed  singly  in  2  and  3-inch  pots,  according  to  the  size  most  suitable. 
For  grouping  purposes  we  find  them  serviceable  in  various  sizes  from 
2  to  5-inch  pots  ;  for  the  latter  size  two  or  three  seedlings  grown  together 
are  better  than  single  plants,  because  they  are  thicker  and  better 
furnished  at  the  base.  This  will  grow  m  almost  any  soil  and  position, 
provided  it  is  liberally  supplied  with  water.  We  have  usually  started 
them  in  gentle  heat,  and  when  sufficiently  developed  removed  them  to 
cool  quaiters.  _  • _ 
m  BEE-WEiEPER.^ 
gi 
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SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Foul  Brood. 
The  leaflet  just  published  by  the  Board  of  AgricuHure  on  this 
disease  should  be  in  the  bands  of  all  bee-keepers.  Many  useful 
hints  may  be  gathered  from  it,  even  by  those  who  have  not  got  the 
disease  in  their  apiaries,  and  may  probably  have  never  seen  it.  A 
piece  of  comb  affected  with  foul  brood  is  illustrated,  and  simple 
instructions  given,  so  that  the  greatest  novice  in  bee  inanagement 
may  easily  recognise  it.  Others  who  have  had  the  misfortune  to 
have  the  disease  amongst  their  bees  may  derive  much  useful  infor- 
