Ati^nsi.  1896. 
J-otfMAL  oP  PtoRTicuLfunP  ANb  boffAaP  gardekPr 
i65 
soil  at  once,  and  be  in  capital  condition  to  swppoit  a  good  start  in  the 
Vines  when  the  time  comes  round.  The  border  renovation,  also  lifting, 
should  be  performed  whilst  the  leaves  are  on  the  Vines.  If  the  weather 
is  bright  the  house  will  need  shading  and  keeping  rather  close  and  moist 
for  a  few  days. 
Midseason  Houses. — The  Vines  have  had  plenty  of  sun  this  season, 
and  have  perfected  or  are  ripening  satisfactory  crops.  Where  the  Grapes 
are  ripe  air  should  be  freely  admitted,  and  enough  afforded  at  night  to 
insure  a  free  circulation .  If  water  is  needed  supply  it  early  on  days 
that  promise  to  be  fine,  and  with  a  free  ventilation  the  moisture  will  not 
do  any  harm,  but  favour  the  keeping  of  the  Grapes  in  a  sound  condition. 
A  slight  shade  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  sun  taking  the  colour  out  of 
Black  Hamburghs  and  other  black  Grapes,  especially  where  the  foliage 
is  thin.  Grapes  commencing  to  colour  need  a  free  circulation  of  air  in 
the  daytime,  and  enough  at  night  to  insure  a  change  of  atmosphere,  a 
gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  often  being  necessary  when  the  weather  is 
cold  or  damp  both  day  and  night.  Copious  supplies  of  water  and  occa¬ 
sional  applications  of  liquid  manure  will  be  needed  until  the  Grapes  are 
well  advanced  in  colouriug,  and  then  the  inside  border  may  be  mulched 
with  short,  dry,  spent  material. 
Late  Houses, — Full  supplies  of  water  and  feeding  at  the  surface  are 
necessary  until  the  Grapes  are  coloured  up  to  the  footstalk,  for  many 
late  Grapes  appear  ripe  when  they  are  only  partially  finished.  All  late 
Grapes  require  time.  They  ought  now  to  be  colouring  or  advanced  in 
that  process  ;  then,  with  a  circulation  of  warm,  rather  dry  air  constantly, 
and  a  thoroughly  moist  condition  of  the  soil,  they  will  swell  and  finish 
well.  The  chief  cause  of  Muscats  shrivelling,  even  before  they  are  ripe, 
is  poverty,  also  of  others  shrinking  after  they  have  hung  some  time. 
Afford  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  90°  with  sun, 
and  close  sufficiently  early  to  increase  to  90°  or  95°.  When  the  sun  is 
losing  power,  afford  enough  air  to  insure  a  circulation,  and  allow  the 
temperature  to  gradually  cool,  which  prevents  the  moisture  in  the 
atmosphere  depositing  on  the  berries.  The  hot-water  pipes  should,  if 
necessary,  have  a  little  warmth  in  them  to  prevent  the  night  tempera¬ 
ture  falling  below  65°.  Give  particular  attention  to  the  early  ventilation 
of  the  house. 
Tigs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Immediately  the  second  crop 
of  fruit  is  gathered  examine  the  trees  for  red  spider  and  scale,  as  keep¬ 
ing  the  soil  and  atmosphere  somewhat  drier  encourages  the  pests.  They 
are  almost  certain  infestors  of  Fig  trees  in  heated  structures,  and  get 
ahead  during  the  ripening  of  the  fruit.  When  that  is  cleared  off  the 
trees  recourse  must  be  had  to  cleaning.  If,  therefore,  these  pests  have 
made  undesirable  progress  it  will  be  advisable  to  syringe  the  trees  with 
a  petroleum  solution,  so  as  to  wet  every  part  of  the  tree,  the  under  as 
well  as  the  upper  side,  and  all  the  wood.  To  prevent  the  solution  soak¬ 
ing  into  the  soil  a  little  dry  moss  may  be  tied  round  the  stem,  and  then 
a  sort  of  pyramid  of  the  same  placed  about  the  plant.  In  severe  infec¬ 
tions  repeat  this  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two,  afterwards  syringing 
thoroughly  with  tepid  water.  The  trees  will  only  need  water  to  prevent 
the  foliage  becoming  limp,  ventilating  to  the  fullest  extent  day  and 
night,  but  protect  the  trees  from  heavy  rains. 
Early  Forced  Planted- out  Trees. — As  the  second  crop  is  ripening  a 
circulation  of  air  constantly  is  imperative,  more  of  coarse  by  day  than 
at  night.  If  dull  wet  weather  prevail  a  gentle  heat  in  the  pipes  is 
necessary  to  secure  well-ripened  fruit  and  prevent  spot — i  fungous 
disease,  attacking  the  Figs  at  the  eye.  Watering  at  the  roots  should  be 
diminished  and  syringing  discontinued,  but  a  moderate  air  moisture 
may  be  maintained  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage.  If  red  spider  is 
present  heat  the  hot-water  pipes  to  from  160°  to  200°,  and  paint  them 
with  sulphur  formed  into  a  cream  with  skim  milk,  keeping  the  house 
closed  for  the  night,  but  allowing  the  pipes  to  cool  after  about  an  hour. 
As  soon  as  the  fruits  are  all  gathered  the  trees  may  have  a  good  washing 
with  the  syringe  or  garden  engine  to  clear  the  foliage  of  dust  and  red 
spider,  otherwise  a  free  circulation  of  warm  rather  dry  air  should  be 
maintained  in  the  house  until  the  foliage  commences  falling  naturally, 
and  which  must  not  be  accelerated  by  allowing  the  soil  to  become  dust- 
dry  «t  the  roots. 
Unheated  Houses. — The  fruit  is  advanced  in  swelling  and  ripening 
commencing.  Admit  air  early,  increasing  it  with  the  sun  heat,  main- 
aming  through  the  day  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°.  with  free  ventila¬ 
tion,  closing  early  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°  or  95°,  oven  100°,  and  when  the 
sun’s  power  is  declining  a  little  air  may  be  admitted  at  the  top  of  the 
house  so  as  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to  escape,  the  temperature 
gradually  cooling  down.  Water  or  liquid  manure  will  be  necessary  for 
keeping  the  soil  properly  moist. 
Pines  —Cleanliness  is  one  of  the  chief  essentials.  Empty  houses 
should  undergo  a  thorough  overhaul,  the  beds  of  .tan  or  leaves  being 
removed  wholly  or  part  at  least  once  a  year.  All  brickwork  may  be 
scalded  and  brushed  with  hot  lime  wash,  the  wood  and  ironwork  with 
carbolic  or  petroleum  soap,  water,  and  a  brush,  cleansing  (he  glass  with 
clear  water.  Chambered  beds  may  have  the  material  turned  over, 
freeing  the  rubble  from  dirt,  also  the  plunging  material  from  the  finer 
particles.  Provide  fresh  tan  in  other  cases,  and  if  wet  turn  it  occasion¬ 
ally  on  fine  days. 
Suckers  started  in  June  must  be  shifted  into  the  fruiting  pots  before 
the  roots  become  closely  matted  together.  Queens  may  have  9  or  10-inch 
pots,  and  those  of  stronger  growth  11-inch  pots.  The  soil  being 
moderately  moist  no  water  will  be  required  after  potting,  but  if  some¬ 
what  dry  water  immediately,  and  plunge  them  in  a  bottom  heat  of  90° 
to  95°.  Attend  to  the  bottom  heat  of  beds  that  have  recently  been 
disturbed  or  upset  by  the  removal  or  replacing  of  plants,  not  allowing 
(he  beat  to  exceed  90°  at  the  base  of  the  pots  after  the  roots  reach  the 
sides  without  immediately,  raising  them,  as  too  much  heat  will 
disastrously  affect  Pines  bearing  fruit  or  those  having  the  pots  filled 
with  roots. 
Examine  the  general  stock  for  watering  about  twice  a  week,  and 
maintain  a  moist,  genial,  well-ventilated  atmosphere.  The  climatic 
conditions  are  now  so  favourable  that  Pine  plants  grow  vigorously, 
therefore  discontinue  shading,  admitting  air  plentifully  where  the  heat 
ranges  from  85°  to  95°,  affording  fruiting  plants  a  night  temperature  of 
70°  to  75°,  and  to  succession  65°  to  70°  at  night.  Reserve,  if  possible, 
more  suckers  for  starting  in  September. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Gardenias. — Cuttings  of  soft-growing  shoots  should  be  inserted 
singly  in  small  pots,  well  watered,  and  placed  in  the  propagating  frame 
until  they  are  rooted.  When  inserted  thickly  together  they  should  be 
potted  singly  directly  they  are  rooted.  When  well  established  in  small 
pots,  pinch  out  the  leader  to  induce  them  to  branch.  Young  plants 
always  produce  the  finest  flowers,  and  if  kept  growing  from  the  time 
they  are  rooted  without  a  check  they  are  not  difficult  to  keep  free  from 
insects,  and  by  the  following  autumn  will  be  fully  2  feet  through. 
Clerodendron  Balfourlanum. — Plants  grown  as  bushes,  flowered 
early  in  the  year,  and  confined  at  their  roots  will  have  thoroughly 
ripened  their  wood  and  rested  in  an  intermediate  temperature.  If  ihe 
shoots  are  partially  pruned  back  and  the  plants  placed  in  brisk  heat 
they  will  break  into  fresh  growth  and  produce  a  second  crop  of  flowers. 
Push  plants  into  growth  that  have  only  just  flowered,  and  fully  expose 
them  to  the  sun.  Wood  made  in  a  moist  shady  atmosphere  is  difficult 
to  ripen  thoroughly  in  autumn.  Feed  with  weak  stimulants  plants  that 
are  lengthening  out  their  growths. 
Tydeeas. — Evergreen  varieties  such  as  Madame  Heine  should  be 
placed  in  5-inch  pots  and  grown  in  an  intermediate  temperature.  Admit 
air  freely  when  the  weather  is  favourable,  and  close  the  frame  early  in 
the  afternoon.  Shade  the  plants  from  bright  sunshine,  but  be  careful 
not  to  allow  water  to  fall  on  their  foliage,  or  it  will  be  brovvned  and  dis¬ 
figured.  The  same  care  is  necessary  with  those  that  make  tubers.  These 
kinds  will  be  growing  rapidly,  and  may  need  a  few  light  stakes  to  sup¬ 
port  them.  The  frames  in  which  they  are  grown  will  need  fire  heat  if 
the  weather  continues  cold.  Nothing  is  gained  by  starving  them.  They 
must  be  kept  growing  after  they  are  st-arted,  or  they  will  not  attain 
their  full  B'ze  and  give  satisfaction. 
Gloxinias. — Place  seedlings  in  their  flowering  pots,  4  or  5-inch, 
accordingto  their  size.  Allow  the  young  plants  to  come  forward  gradually, 
and  in  due  time  they  will  push  up  fine  flowers.  These  plants  do  well  in 
loam  with  one-third  leaf  mould  and  one-seventh  manure  and  sand. 
Shade  from  the  sun,  and  water  carefully  until  they  are  rooting  freely. 
Gesneras. — Place  these  in  from  5  to  7-inch  pots  according  to  the 
variety  and  the  number  of  plants  in  each  pot.  To  grow  these  well  they 
must  have  a  warm  moist  atmosphere  where  they  can  be  shaded  from  the 
sun.  No  water  must  be  allowed  to  fall  upon  their  beautifully  marked 
foliage.  If  possible  stand  them  on  a  bed  of  moisture-holding  material. 
Give  water  carefully  at  first,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  become  dry. 
They  will  do  w  ell  in  the  soil  advised  for  Gloxinias,  but  add  more  sand. 
JTustlcla  flavlcoma. — This  plant  is  useful  for  any  position,  but 
stands  longer  when  in  bloom  in  the  conservatory  and  intermediate 
temperatures  than  in  the  stove.  Feed  all  the  earliest  plants  with  weak 
stimulants,  shade  from  the  brightest  sun  only,  and  keep  the  plants 
moderately  close  in  cold  frames.  Those  in  a  more  backward  condition 
should  be  pushed  forward  for  a  time  in  brisk  heat.  Cuttings  that 
were  rooted  late  will  only  need  4-inch  pots,  and  should  be  grown  without 
pinching. 
Plumbago  rosea. — The  shoots  of  these  should  be  allowed  to  extend. 
Do  not  hurry  them,  or  they  will  soon  run  up  tall  and  fail  to  flower  as 
profusely  as  those  that  are  grown  under  cooler  and  more  airy  conditions. 
Watch  for  thrips,  which  is  very  liable  to  trouble  these  plants,  and  is  best 
destroyed  by  dipping  in  or  syringing  with  a  weak  solution  of  tobacco 
water. 
Pandanus  Veitchl. — Suckers  from  plants  that  are  throwing  them 
up  freely  near  the  base  may  be  carefully  taken  off  and  inserted  in  small 
pots.  They  will  root  quickly  in  sandy  soil  if  placed  under  hand-lights 
and  kept  close.  When  well  rooted  they  should  be  placed  into  larger 
pots,  and  if  grown  in  a  close  moist  atmosphere,  and  fully  exposed  to  the 
sun,  they  will  grow  rapidly  and  be  well  coloured.  It  is  only  when 
grown  in  the  shade  that  this  useful  decorative  plant  fails  to  colour  and 
turns  green.  _ 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Finishing  OFF  Sections. 
The  honey  harvest  (with  the  exception  of  that  obtained  from 
the  Heather)  is  now  practically  over,  and  many  bee-keepers  will 
have  a  limited  number  of  sections  not  properly  sealed  and  other¬ 
wise  unsaleable.  These  must  be  seen  to  at  once,  or  they  will  not 
be  finished  in  a  satisfactory  manner  ;  still  it  is  possible,  during 
the  present  spell  of  warm  weather,  for  the  majority  of  the  most 
forward  sections  to  be  sealed  over.  The  plan  that  I  have  been 
moit  successful  with  is  to  place  the  best  sections  directly  over  the 
m  BBE-KEEPER. 
I  'j  -  1  »  »  I  n  —  I  -  I  »  »  I  «  1  Y  »  I  »  1  *  f  «  I  *  I  »  > 
