August  27,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTlGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
21?, 
remaining  space  with  the  dry  soil,  preventing  evaporation.  Very  probably 
no  further  watering  will  be  required,  artificial  applications  only  being 
requisite  to  insure  an  early  establishment, 
Distances  to  Planb,  —  The  general  amount  of  space  demanded 
between  the  rows  is  2  feet.  The  strongest  growers  need  another  6  inches, 
medium  growers  may  be  18  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  the  stronger  2  feet 
from  plant  to  plant.  When  spring  planting  is  contemplated  small 
plants  may  be  placed  6  or  8  inches  apart  in  a  bed  where  they  can 
strengthen  during  the  autumn  and  be  planted  out  finally  in  March. 
Varieties, — Boyal  Sovereign  is  undoubtedly  the  leading  variety  at 
the  present  time,  combining  the  excellent  qualitiea  of  earliness,  size, 
fertility,  and  fiavour  in  a  marked  degree.  Laxton’s  No.  1  is  one  of  the 
earliest.  Noble  is  a  well  known  variety.  Laxton’s  Monarch,  one  of  the 
newest  introductions,  has  large  and  handsome  fruits  and  follows  Koyal 
Sovereign.  Midseason  varieties  comprise  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  President, 
James  Veitch  ;  and  the  new  variety,  Laxton’s  Leader,  promises  to  be  a 
good  one.  For  late  crops,  excellent  standard  varieties  are  Laxton’s 
Latest  of  All,  Dr.  Hogg,  and  Waterloo. 
Clearing  Established  Beds, — In  cases  where  runners  still  occupy 
the  ground  between  the  plants  a  clearance  of  them  ought  to  be  made 
forthwith,  as  they  not  only  impoverish  the  soil  but  withdraw  support  from 
the  older  and  permanent  plants.  Weeds,  perennial  and  annual,  flourish 
among  them  and  assist  in  the  general  deterioration  of  the  Strawberry 
root  run.  Cut  off  the  runners  closely  to  the  old  plants,  at  the  same  time 
removing  any  useless  foliage.  Fork  or  pull  up  the  rooted  runners  and 
strong  weeds,  finishing  by  hoeing  if  necessary,  and  lightly  raking. 
Afterwards  give  a  mulching  of  manure,  which  will  replace  to  some 
extent  the  food  abstracted  and  benefit  the  plants  in  several  ways. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Forcing  in  Pots, — The  canes  for  starting  early  in 
November  to  supply  Grapes  fit  for  table  towards  the  close  of  March  or 
early  in  April  must  not  allowed  to  become  dust  dry  at  the  roots,  for 
that  impairs  the  vitality  of  the  Vines,  and  may  cause  the  incipient 
bunches  to  perish  in  the  buds.  Too  much  water  is  inimical  to  the  tender 
roots,  often  causing  them  to  decay.  Suffice,  therefore,  that  the  soil  be 
moderately  moist.  The  Vines  should  now  be  at  rest,  the  wood  quite 
brown  and  firm,  the  buds  round  and  plump,  the  laterals  cut  close  to  the 
cane,  and  this  shortened  to  about  6  feet,  more  or  less,  according  to  the 
situation  of  the  sound  buds  and  the  width  of  trellis.  Dress  the  cuts — the 
wounds  only — with  the  best  French  polish  woilst  they  are  dry  as  a  pre¬ 
ventive  of  bleeding.  The  Vines  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  airy  house.  If 
the  canes  have  to  be  bought  orders  should  be  given  now,  so  as  to  secure 
sturdy  canes,  with  plump  buds  of  the  desired  varieties.  The  most  suit¬ 
able  kinds  for  very  early  forcing  are  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seed¬ 
ling,  and  Black  Hamburgh. 
Earliest  E'orced  Planted-out  Vines. — To  afford  ripe  Grapes  in  May 
the  Vines  should  be  started  early  in  December,  and  they  must  be  pruned 
and  given  a  few  weeks’  rest  before  exciting  them  into  growth.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  wait  until  all  the  leaves  are  down  before  pruning  Vines  with 
thoroughly  matured  wood  for  early  forcing,  but  the  bearing  growths 
must  be  brown  and  hard,  and  the  leaves  turning  yellow.  If  the  Vines 
are  in  good  condition  they  will  afford  useful  bunches  when  pruned  to  a 
couple  of  buds  from  the  base,  but  closely  pruned  Vines  do  not  always 
produce  bunches  that  are  sufficiently  taking  in  appearance  for  home  use 
or  market,  and  in  that  case  the  spur  shoots  may  be  left  a  little  longer, 
say  pruned  to  three  or  four  buds,  with  a  view  to  larger  bunches.  This 
method  becomes  necessary  where  the  Vines  are  weak  through  heavy 
cropping  or  a  long  course  of  forcing,  when  it  is  advisable  to  encourage 
shoots  from  as  near  the  base  as  possible  when  the  Vines  start  into  growth, 
and  these  should  not  be  allowed  to  carry  fruit,  but  be  stopped  at  about 
the  sixth  leaf,  the  laterals  and  sub-laterals  to  one  leaf  as  produced.  The 
extra  foliage  will  invigorate  the  Vines  by  the  increased  root  action  and 
supplies  of  food,  laying  on  new  and  larger  layers  of  wood,  through  which 
the  sap  will  flow  freely,  and  storing  more  aliment  the  Vines  will  derive 
increased  benefit  in  current  and  future  crops.  Such  shoots  are  sure  to 
form  good  buds,  the  fruiting  growths  being  cut  away  as  soon  as  the 
Grapes  are  cut  ia  favour  of  the  other  for  bearing  the  following  season. 
This  old  alternate  system  of  fruiting  necessitates  the  shoots  being  kept 
wider  apart  for  development  and  exposure  to  light  ^d  air.  Any 
extension  should  be  cut  back  to  plump  buds  on  firm  ripe  wood,  being 
guided  by  the  space  at  command  and  the  strength  of  the  canes,  always 
having  regard  to  ample  space  for  the  subsequent  growths,  for  there  must 
not  be  any  overcrowding. 
Unsatisfactory  Vines. — These  may  be  improved  by  removing  the 
soil  down  to  the  roots,  picking  it  carefully  from  amongst  them  and 
supplying  fresh  loam,  raising  the  roots  where  practicable  and  laying 
them  in  the  new  soil,  especially  the  fibry  ones  and  those  proceeding  from 
the  collar.  With  the  roots  lifted,  laid  in  fresh  compost,  and  covered 
3  or  4  inches  deep  the  Vines  generally  form  abundance  of  fibrous  roots 
in  the  new  material  and  become  almost  independent  of  the  large  roots, 
which  are  comparatively  inactive  through  the  lower  part  of  the  border 
having  become  effete.  This  is  best  done  in  advance  f  the  leaves  falling, 
and  a  gentle  watering  being  given  the  roots  will  t  ke  to  the  new  soil  at 
once.  Vines  at  rest  must  not  be  allowed  to  b  jome  very  dry  at  the 
roots  for  the  borders  crack  and  part  from  the  w^.Us,  causing  the  young 
roots  to  perish,  and  the  soil  is  difficult  to  make  thoroughly  moist  after  it 
gets  into  a  parched  condition. 
Late  Grapes. — The  Vines  require  a  moist  soil,  genial  atmosphere,  and 
abundance  of  light  and  heat  for  swelling  in  the  late  stages  of  the  crops, 
for  the  Grapes  swell  considerably  when  ripening,  and  unless  they  are 
finished  plump  they  can  hardly  be  expected  to  keep  sound,  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  and  late  Grapes  are  a  long  time  in  ripening,  and  require 
abundant  supplies  of  water  at  that  period.  They  ought  not  to  become 
dry  at  the  root  even  when  the  fruit  is  ripe.  Grapes  well  advanced  and 
ripening  may  have  the  atmospheric  moisture  reduced  by  freer  ventilation, 
admitting  a  little  air  constantly,  increasing  it  early  on  fine  days,  and  by 
judicious  early  reduction  of  the  ventilation  the  most  can  be  made  of  sun 
heat.  This  is  the  best  agent  in  the  perfecting  of  Grapes,  and  moderate 
atmospheric  moisture  will  not  injure  but  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling. 
Whatever  watering  is  necessary  should  be  given  on  a  fine  day  early,  and 
with  air  the  superfluous  moisture  will  soon  be  dissipated,  the  moisture 
produced  having  no  injurious  effects  provided  the  atmosphere  is  kept  in 
motion  by  ventilation,  and,  if  need  be,  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes.  A 
day  temperature  of  70®  to  76°  is  necessary  by  artificial  means,  falling 
6°  to  10°  at  night,  but  turning  the  heat  on  early  in  the  morning  so  as  to 
aid  the  sun  heat,  and  with  alternating  sunshine  and  cloud  secure  a  day 
temperature  of  80°  to  85°,  with  10°  to  15°  advance  on  clear  days.  Keep 
the  laterals  well  stopped  and  thinned,  thereby  admitting  as  much  light 
as  possible  to  Muscats  and  white  Grapes  generally,  but  black  Grapes  are 
better  with  a  good  even  spread  of  foliage,  yet  without  crowding  the 
leaves,  and  there  must  not  be  large  reductions  of  foliage  at  a  time,  as 
that  is  known  to  accelerate  shanking,  whilst  frequent  pinchings  will  not 
produce  any  appreciable  check  but  concentrate  the  nutrition  on  the 
essential  growths. 
Young  Vines. — Those  having  made  a  strong  growth,  and  to  be  cut 
down  to  three  plump  buds  from  the  bottom  of  the  trellis  to  furnish  a 
leader  and  side  shoots,  one  on  each  side  of  the  rod,  another  season,  may 
be  allowed  to  grow  as  long  as  they  like,  taking  the  precaution  to  keep 
the  principal  leaves  that  correspond  to  the  pruning  buds  free  of  spray, 
so  that  that  part  of  the  cane  may  get  thoroughly  ripened.  Vines,  how¬ 
ever,  that  are  expected  to  do  something  more  than  “  prove  the  variety  ” 
next  year  should  have  further  growth  discouraged  by  the  removal  of  the 
laterals  as  they  appear,  taking  care  to  leave  some  growth  as  an  outlet  for 
the  excess  of  sap,  otherwise  the  pruning  buds  may  be  started.  By  this  time 
the  wood  will  be  getting  brown  and  hard,  and  the  laterals  may  be  gradually 
removed,  cutting  them  back  in  the  first  instance  to  one  joint,  and  in  the 
course  of  ten  days  to  a  fortnight  they  may  be  cut  away  close  to  the  cane 
provided  they  have  not  pushed  fresh  growth  ;  but  if  they  start  the  buds 
on  the  laterals  the  growths  must  be  pinched  at  the  first  leaf,  and  the 
removal  of  the  laterals  deferred  to  a  later  period.  In  this  case  the  Vines 
should  be  assisted  with  fire  beat,  maintaining  a  minimum  of  65'  and  a 
maximum  of  75°  until  the  wood  is  ripe,  accompanied  with  free  top  and 
front  ventilation. 
Figs. — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Po^s-^The  trees  may  be  placed 
outdoors  whtn  the  wood  is  ripe  ;  but  they  must  not  be  so  treated  if  there 
is  any  doubt  about  this,  keeping  them  under  glass  with  a  free  circulation 
of  air.  These  are  matters  in  which  the  cultivator  will  need  to  exercise 
his  judgment.  In  either  case  encourage  surface  roots  by  dressings  of 
manure  and  rough  loam  in  equal  parts,  adding  a  sixth  part  of  old  mortar 
rubbish,  and  a  sprinkling  of  dissolved  bones .  See  that  those  placed  outdoors 
do  not  root  from  the  base  of  the  pots.  Cut  off  all  roots  that  have  passed 
into  the  plunging  material,  top-dress,  after  which  give  a  good  watering, 
and  they  will  only  need  water  afterwards  sufficient  to  keep  the  foliage 
in  health.  Where  trees  have  to  be  bought  orders  should  now  be  placed. 
The  trees  should  have  stems  of  about  a  foot  high  and  well  formed  heads, 
with  the  growth  fairly  thin  and  the  wood  ripened  to  the  points  of  the 
shoots.  The  best  varieties  for  early  forcing  are  St.  John,  Early  Violet, 
Pingo  de  Mel,  and  Brown  Turkey. 
Earliest  Planted-out  Trees. — In  the  earliest  house  the  trees  will  now 
be  ripening  their  wood,  and  watering  may  be  discontinued,  air  being 
given  very  liberally.  If,  however,  the  second  crop  is  not  yet  ripened 
moderate  moisture  in  the  soil  will  be  necessary,  with  a  free  circulation 
of  warm  air  to  insure  high  quality  in  the  fruit.  When  the  fruit  is  off 
cut  out  the  growths  not  required  for  bearing  or  furnishing  the  trees,  and 
take  prompt  measures  against  insects. 
Unsatisfactory  Trees.— the  trees  grow  rampantly  and  produce 
thin  crops  of  fruit  root-pruning  should  be  resorted  to,  confining  the  roots 
to  a  narrow  border  of  3  to  4  feet  width .  A  trench  taken  out  at  this 
distance  from  the  stem  after  the  fruit  is  gathered  will  check  the  tendency 
to  a  late  growth,  assist  in  the  ripening  of  the  wood,  more  particularly  if 
the  growths  are  thinly  disposed,  and  the  points  of  the  shoots,  instead  of 
being  closely  tied  in,  aie  allowed  to  grow  up  to  the  glass.  If  the  drain¬ 
age  be  defective  it  will  be  necessary  to  lift  the  trees  in  the  autumn  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  commence  falling  and  replant  in  fresh  soil.  Place  9  to 
12  inches  of  drainage,  rough  at  the  bottom  and  smallest  at  top,  and  on 
this  lay  3  inches  thickness  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  freed  of  old  laths  and 
other  pieces  of  wood,  smashed  and  sifted  with  a  half-inch  sieve,  using 
that  remaining  in  the  sieve,  the  finer  particles  being  mixed  with  the  soil 
to  the  extent  of  one-sixth.  A  3-inch  drain  must  be  provided  below  the 
drainage  to  carry  off  superfluous  water.  Turfy  loam,  inclined  to  be 
strong  rather  than  light,  forms  a  suitable  compost,  adding  to  it  the  one- 
sixth  part  of  old  mortar  rubbish  before-mentioned  and  a  bushel  of 
ground  coprolites  to  every  cartload  of  loam.  In  replanting  ram  the 
compost  well  incorporated,  thoroughly  about  the  roots,  spreading  them 
out  evenly  well  up  to  the  surface,  and  with  soil  between  each  layer  so  as 
not  to  have  all  the  roots  together.  This  will  insure  steady  progressive 
growth,  short-fointed  fruitful  wood,  a  solidified  compost  duly  supplied 
with  nutrient  elements,  securing,  with  judicious  ventilation  and  manage¬ 
ment,  solidified  growth  and  large  heavy  fruit.  Should  the  drainage  be 
good  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  detach  the  roots  as  advised,  confine  the 
trees  to  the  narrow  border,  and  remove  some  of  the  old  soil  from  amongst 
the  roots,  supplying  a  top-dressing  with  the  soil  above  stated. 
