September  3,  1898. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
225 
colour  and  formation  of  both  stem  and  leaf,  growing  from  3  feet  to  4  feet 
high.  Madame  Meena  de  Proli  is  the  weakest  growing  of  all,  but  has 
i-promiaing  flower  buds.  Capt.  L.  Chaure,  an  incurved  form  of  Japanese, 
has  curly  leaves,  deep  green  in  colour  ;  its  height  is  4  feet.  Ma  Per¬ 
fection  belongs  to  the  true  incurved  Chinese  section,  and  is  said  to 
possess  desirable  qualities.  In  height  it  grows  but  2  feet,  and  is  well 
•  furnished  with  deep  green  leaves. 
Several  more  might  be  named,  but  no  useful  purpose  would  be  served 
by  so  doing,  sufficient  having  been  said  to  give  those  an  idea  who  have 
not  had  the  opportunity  of  studying  the  habit  of  growth,  and  also  to 
compare  the  growth  with  others  in  different  localities. — E.  Molyneux. 
ROOT  EELWORM  IN  CUCUMBERS. 
“W.  D.”  (page  194)  rightly,  as  he  does  not  appear  to  have  any 
■.practical  experience  of  this  pest,  appeals  to  the  numerous  correspondents 
of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture  to  verify  my  statements  in  respect  of 
soluble  phenyle  and  kainit.  In  the  spring  of  the  year  a  similar  appeal 
was  made  to  Mr.  Iggulden  in  respect  of  Tomatoes  and  soluble  phenyle, 
but  he  has  remained  silent.  Why  ?  Has  he,  too,  no  practical  know¬ 
ledge  and  experience  of  “  black  stripe  ”  in  Tomatoes  and  of  eelworm  in 
Cucumbers  ?  What  of  the  Cucumber  plants  that  were  sickly  and  dying, 
which  recovered  and  went  right  away  to  health  and  fruitfulness  after 
treatment  with  soluble  phenyle  ? 
“  W.  D.”  refers  to  a  friend’s  case  in  which  the  root  eelworm  (how 
does  he  know  it  was  Heterodera  radicicola — by  “  the  nodules  on  the 
roots  ?  ”)  infested  half-grown  Cucumber  plants,  and  they  did  not  recover 
when  treated  with  “  it.”  What  does  “  W.  D.”  mean  by  "  it  ?  ”  Soluble 
phenyle  or  kainit  solution  ?  Does  ”  W.  D.”  suppose  that  the  nodules  on 
the  roots  can  be  restored  to  health,  or  that  a  Cucumber  plant  having  its 
root  system  practically  destroyed  can  have  a  new  one  put  on  by  any 
chemical,  or  by  any  art  of  man  short  of  encouraging  roots  from  unim¬ 
paired  tissue  ?  In  brief,  what  does  he  mean  by  his  article,  for  I  fail  to 
comprehend  ? 
His  reference  to  chlorides  is  beside  the  question,  also  to  the  sixty 
different  experiments,  for  in  the  whole  there  is  no  mention  of  either 
soluble  phenyle  or  kainit,  or  of  nitrate  of  soda,  which,  for  reasons  known 
only  to  “  W.  D,,”  is  entirely  ignored.  It  is  not  a  matter  of  “  free  lime 
or  chloride,”  but  of  soluble  phenyle  —  carbolic  acid  rendered  non- 
poisonous,  and  instead  of  injurious,  beneficial  to  vegetation  ;  of  kainit — 
chlorine  combined  with  soda  and  magnesia,  and  sulphur  united  with 
potash  and  magnesia,  the  sulphates  comprising  38  per  cent.,  both  chlorine 
and  sulphur  being  essentials  of  plant  life,  with  special  value  as  manures 
in  combination  with  potash,  magnesia,  and  soda,  and  valuable  properties 
as  anti  pests;  and  of  nitrate  of  soda  (nitric  acid  united  with  soda),  one 
cf  the  most  potential  of  nitrogenous  manures.  For  this  reason  "I  am 
fond  of  quoting  1  oz.  of  kainit  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  water,”  following 
with  a  similar  solution  of  nitrate  of  soda.  There  is  destruction  in  these, 
either  of  them,  to  eel  worms,  even  within  the  root  nodosities,  and,  better 
than  all,  health  and  sustenance  to  the  plant.  The  solutions,  however, 
will  not  restore  destroyed  tissues,  nor  save  plants  from  destruction  which 
are  near  death  through  the  destroying  agent  being  allowed  to  pursue 
dts  course  unchecked  till  too  late,  as  appears  to  have  been  the  case  with 
”  W.  D.’s  ”  friend’s  Cucumbers. 
Your  correspondent  may  prefer  chlorides  and  free  lime,  but  on  his 
own  showing  they  are  worthless.  But  what  does  “  W.  D.”  mean  by 
”  free  lime  ?”  Is  it  quicklime  ?  If  so,  how  long  will  an  eelworm  live  in 
it,  or  in  any  soil  treated  with  10  per  cent,  of  it?  This  is  a  very  simple 
test,  and  better  than  the  “  sixty  different  experiments  conducted  with 
the  greatest  care  by  one  of  the  most  successful  horticulturists  in  our 
•country,”  as  there  is  direct  evidence  one  way  or  the  other. 
"W.  D.”  cites  a  case  in  which  “the  old  soil  was  taken  out  of  the 
house,  and  the  latter  and  walls  washed  with  a  strong  solution  of  phenyle, 
the  soil  left  being  afterwards  saturated  with  the  above  solution.”  [At 
what  strength?]  “New  soil  was  then  brought  in  and  planted  with 
•Cucumbers,  but  with  what  result  ?  The  roots  were  attacked  by  the 
eelworm,  some  being  one  mass  of  knots  or  nodular  enlargements.”  No 
doubt  “  W,  D.”  considers  this  evidence  conclusive  of  soluble  phenyle 
not  destroying  eelworm,  but  unfortunately  he  does  not  see  that  the 
eelworms  were  introduced  in  the  new  soil,  this  not  being  treated 
with  soluble  phenyle,  and  the  whole  case  is  worse  than  worthless  in 
•consequence. 
As  for  such  sweeping  assertions  as  “  no  kind  of  artificial  manure — 
such  as  nitrates,  chlorides,  sulphates,  or  phosphates — seemed  to  have  any 
effect  in  destroying  this  pest.”  I  cannot  understand  how  this  is,  for  I 
find  they  quickly  perish  in  solutions  of  acids  and  of  most  metallic 
compounds,  and  everybody  knows  that  “  whole  field  crops”  have  been 
cured  of  eelworm  in  England — for  there  is  no  need  to  go  to  America — 
by  simple  dressings  of  chemical  manures.  “  W.  D.’s”  eelworm  may  be 
different  to  any  with  which  I  am  acquainted,  bat  if  he  will  forward  a 
specimen  to  the  Editor  I  shall  be  pleased  to  make  a  close  inspection, 
and  may  then  be  able  to  understand  what  he  is  writing  about  in  the 
promised  “  life  history.” 
The  eelworm  is  not  invulnerable,  but  amenable  to  preventive  and 
remedial  measures,  there  not  being  any  “thinking”  in  the  matter  of 
-soluble  phenyle,  kainit,  and  nitrate  of  soda  in  these  respects.  ,  Indeed, 
there  are  many  other  substances  that  will  destroy  eelworms,  but  as  they 
are  either  poisonous  or  inimical  to  useful  crops  reference  need  not  be 
,  m«de  to  them,  nor  are  they  advised  by  “  Phenyle  Adviser,”  “  G.  A,,” 
s  4jr^ — G.  Abbey. 
NARCISSI  OR  DAFFODILS. 
{Concluded  from  page  17o.) 
The  next  important  point  is  the  culture  of  this  family.  Some  plants 
thrive  well  in  one  soil,  and  some  in  another.  In  this  class  of  bulbous 
plants  a  medium  sandy  loam  is  very  suitable.  It  should  have  good 
drainage,  so  that  the  autumn  rains  will  pass  quickly  away  from  the 
bulbs.  The  soil  must  be  a  fair  depth,  as  the  Narcissi  send  their  fleshy 
roots  a  long  way  down.  In  preparing  the  ground  make  a  trench  about 
2  feet  wide  and  to  the  depth  of  the  subsoil,  and  wheel  the  soil  to  the 
end  of  the  border.  Then  get  some  good,  well  decomposed  manure— 
cow  manure  if  possible — and  place  a  good  layer  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench.  Make  a  second  trench,  and  with  the  soil  taken  out  fill  up  the 
first  one,  placing  the  top  spit  at  the  bottom.  Proceed  in  this  manner 
until  you  have  finished  the  border.  The  soil  removed  at  the  commence¬ 
ment  of  the  work  will  fill  up  the  last  trench,  and  the  ground  is  then 
ready  for  the  reception  of  the  bulbs.  If  a  crop  of  Potatoes  is  grown 
upon  the  laud  they  would  absorb  the  rankness  of  the  manure  and  the 
ground  would  be  in  better  tilth  for  the  bulbs.  As  this  course  cannot 
always  be  adopted,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  change  the  ground  occasionally — 
say  where  you  have  grown  the  Trumpet  varieties  grow  the  cupped  forms, 
and  vise  versa,  trenching  the  soil  each  time  of  replanting. 
Always  let  the  manure  be  away  from  the  bulb.  Some  growers  say 
do  not  use  any  manure  at  all,  but  I  think  on  light  land  it  is  very  bene¬ 
ficial.  Bonemeal  spread  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  after  planting 
the  bulbs,  which  is  washed  into  the  soil  by  the  rain,  is  very  suitable. 
When  I  visited  Mr.  Barr’s  nurseries  last  spring  they  were  testing 
several  kinds  of  artificial  manures  that  are  now  in  the  market  with  a 
view  to  ascertain  which  kind  is  the  best  for  the  Narcissus.  Probably  in 
due  course  we  shall  hear  the  results  of  tneir  experiments,  Mr.  Bngleheart, 
the  eminent  Narciss  raiser,  thinks  bone  manure  is  a  good  fertiliser  for 
them,  especially  the  strongest  growing  varieties. 
Supposing  the  ground  is  ready  for  planting,  take  the  strong  varieties 
first,  such  as  Empress,  Emperor,  Horsefieldi,  Sir  Watkin,  P.  E.  Barr, 
Maximus,  and  Grandee.  Use  a  blunt  dibber,  and  make  a  hole  5  to 
6  inches  deep  for  strong-growing  varieties.  The  dibber  should  be  larger 
than  the  bulb,  so  that  the  latter  when  placed  in  the  hole  rests  firmly  on 
the  bottom.  If  the  bulb  is  not  firmly  planted  it  does  not  grow  so  well 
and  cannot  thrive  properly. 
When  the  beds  or  borders  are  planted  rake  them  carefully  over,  and 
fill  op  the  holes  made  in  planting.  If  the  ground  has  been  newly  dug 
give  it  a  treading  over  if  it  seems  at  all  light.  The  nature  of  the 
soil  should  govern  the  planting  operations.  In  stiff  soil  shallow  planting 
is  preferable,  and  raised  beds  for  the  more  weakly  growers.  Three 
inches  in  depth  is  ample  for  the  cupped  varieties,  aud  they  should  be 
4  or  5  inches  apart  all  ways.  They  are  also  much  better  planted  in 
rows,  and  can  easily  be  lifted  with  spade  or  fork  without  bruising  or 
injuring  the  bulbs. 
Another  very  important  item  is  early  planting.  The  bulbs  have  a 
family  to  bring  up  as  well  as  producing  bloom  in  the  spring  time.  They 
should  be  in  the  ground  by  the  first  or  second  week  in  August,  or 
even  earlier  if  possible.  Of  course,  the  season  makes  a  difference  to 
them.  Some  seasons  they  die  down  quicker  than  others ;  for  instance, 
this  season  we  commenced  lifting  the  bulbs  a  fortnight  earlier  than 
last  year.  When  the  foliage  begins  to  turn  yellow  it  is  quite  time  to 
commence  lifting.  Daffodils  should  be  lifted  every  two  years,  or  at 
least  every  three  years  without  fail.  The  offsets  should  be  removed 
from  the  bulbs  and  planted  by  themselves  whenever  it  is  desirable  to 
increase  the  stock  of  any  variety.  If  replanting  is  left  any  longer  the 
grass  becomes  weak  and  drawn,  and  the  least  shower  of  rain  or  the  wind 
will  lay  them  on  the  ground  as  if  a  roller  had  been  passed  over  them. 
The  best  position  to  grow  them  is  a  southern  or  south-west  slope,  or 
even  a  western  aspect  would  do.  They  should  be  sheltered  from  the 
cold  winds,  if  possible,  A  Holly  or  Yew  hedge  is  a  very  good  protection, 
and  adis  greatly  to  the  appearance  the  borders  when  in  flower,  as  I 
think  a  nice  green  background  sets  them  off  to  the  best  advantage.  A 
winding  border  is  far  preferable  to  a  straight  one  ;  it  is  not  so  formal, 
and  looks  more  picturesque.  .  .  ii. 
There  is  one  feature  in  the  growth  of  the  Narcissi :  whatever  depth 
they  are  planted  it  does  not  alter  the  height  of  leaf  or  flower  stem  above 
the  ground.  Mr,  Walker  of  Whitton,  who  grows  acres  to  supply  the  London 
market,  says  if  it  were  not  for  the  expense  and  trouble  he  would  lift  all 
his  bulbs  annually,  as  he  considered  it  of  great  benefit  to  them.  Wn'lst 
referring  to  lifting,  when  the  bulbs  have  been  taken  up  they  should  not 
be  left  on  the  ground,  like  Onions,  but  taken  to  a  cool  dry  shed  or  out¬ 
house  where  they  will  not  be  exposed  to  sun  or  damp.  If  it  is  not 
possible  to  do  this,  remove  them  as  the  work  of  lifting  proceeds,  and 
place  them  on  mats  and  cover  up  with  more  mats  until  it  is  convenient 
to  remove  them  to  a  suitable  place.  Wood  trays  are  good  for  storing, 
made  so  that  they  can  be  packed  on  the  top  of  each  other  ;  thB  allows 
plenty  of  air  to  pass  amongst  them.  The  trays  can  also  be  utilised  for 
Onions,  Eschalots,  and  Tulips.  When  possible  a  top-dressing  of  cow 
manure  about  3  inches  thick  should  be  applied  in  November. 
Pot  Cultheb. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  this  unique  family  well  adapted  for 
orcing  and  pot  culture,  especially  the  early  Trumpet  ^ction,  ^^h  M 
'rinceps,  Horsefieldi,  Empress,  J.  B.  M.  Camm,  Jas.  Walker,  Nobilis, 
nth  obvallaris,  the  Tenby  Daffodil,  which  increases  very  fast.  Golden 
ipur  and  Henry  Irving  are  both  very  good  yellows,  and  follow  m  succas- 
ion  the  Tenby.  We  come  next  to  the  whites  and  sulphurs.  PaUidus 
irmcox  is  a  beautifulisulphur, 'and  very  early  ;  Moschatus  and  Mrs.  F.  W- 
