September  3,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTDRL  AND  OOTTjiGE  GARDENER, 
233 
present  (_/),  but  not  entirely  grown  over  it.  Witbin  tbe  integament 
was  obnerved  a  dark  stain,  and  on  removing  the  ovule,  Or  what 
would  he  the  stone  or  seed  (.G),  this  proved  to  be  the  part  appor¬ 
tioned  to  the  embryo  (/^),  being  undeveloped,  the  matter  brown-^ 
dead,  because  not  quickened  by  the  substance  of  a  pollen  tube, 
which  becomes  part,  and  that  integral,  of  the  future  plant. 
Fig.  47,  Berries  of  Alnwick  Seedling  Grapes  and  sections. 
A,  small  shoulder  of  stoneless  bunch,  a,  ovuleless  berries  ; 
stoneless  (natural  size).  5,  section  of  berry.  €>  section  of  a 
berry,  enlarged  three  diameters,  showing — c,  skin  ;  d,  flesh  ;  ovaries 
or  seed  cells  ;  fy  ovules.  JD,  ovule  portion  (in  part)  of  berry,  show- 
ing— y,  ovules  ;  h,  heck  ;  i,  cell  attachments  ;  j,  enclosing 
gelatinous  sufcstance.  E,  detached  ovule  ;  7c,  undeveloped  embryo. 
F,  berry  when  ripe.  G,  section  of  seedless  berry  ;  H,  seeded  berry, 
of  ripe  size,  2,  section  of  stoned  berry  when  ripe. 
The  correspondent  sending  the  specimen  stated  that  the  bunch, 
and  all  those  on  the  Yine-^ 
one  of  several  other  varie¬ 
ties  in  the  same  house— had 
been  carefully  fertilised 
when  in  flower,  but  with  the 
pollen  of  the  Vine ;  and 
as  this  is  a  clear  indica¬ 
tion  of  the  impotency  of 
native  pollen  the  example 
is  given  with  a  view  to 
secure  perfect  fertilisation 
in  similar  Cases  by  the 
agency  of  cross- impregna¬ 
tion. 
A#  the  berries  were  only 
at  the  commencement  of 
the  last  swelling  or,  ripen¬ 
ing  stage,  jthey  would 
become  about  one -third 
larger  (.F^y  and  it  is  a 
question  .whether  such 
berry  is  not  better  for 
food  than ,  a  stoned  one, 
for  the  .chief  nutrient 
elements  are  concentrated 
in  the  seed,  the  flesh  or 
pulp  being  chiefly  com¬ 
posed  of  the  less  energising 
substances.  At  any  rate 
the  berry  is  seedless  (G), 
and  on  that  account 
pleasant  eating,  the  flavour 
and  quality  being  as  high 
or  higher  as  that  of  a 
seeded  (H),  and  shown  in 
section  at  G.  Of  course 
there  is  the  question  of 
size  and  appearance,  and 
also  of  Grape  sugar,  which 
is  certainly  more  abundant 
in  Muscatel  and  Yalencia 
raisins  than  in  currants  and 
sultanas. 
The  whole  matter  of 
fertilisation  in  Grapes  is 
of  so  interesting  and  important  a  character  that  it  may  be 
desirable  to  refer  to  it  again  on  a  future  occasion. — G.  Abbey. 
TUBEROSE  CULTURE. 
Where,  buttonholes,  sprays,  wreathi,  or  bouquets  are  in 
demand  few  flowers  are  more  useful  than  those  of  the  single 
and  double  Tuberose.  The  bulbs  can  generally  be  obtained  by 
September,  and  when  the  flowers  are  required  early  the  bulbs 
should  be  potted  at  once  and  pashed  forward.  For  succession 
and  late  flowering  they  can  be  potted  at  intervals  of  a  month 
until  the  beginning  of  May. 
An  impression  prevails  that  bottom  heat  is  necessary  for  the 
successful  culture  of  Tuberoses.  This  is  erroneous,  and  may  be 
the  means  of  preventing  many  growing  them  who  might  readily 
do  so  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse.  Bottom  heat  is  unquestionably  a 
great  aid  where  the  flowers  are  needed  early  in  the  season,  but 
for  successional  plants  it  need  not  bo  applied,  the  only  difference 
observable  is  the  greater  length  of  time  required  before  the  flower 
spikes  are  visible. 
The  bulbs  may  be  potted  singly  in  4J-inch  pots,  or  three  may  be 
placed  into  6-incli  pots.  Good  drainage  is  essential,  and  the  com¬ 
post  must  be  pressed  in  moderately  firm.  They  succeed  admirably 
in  two  parts  good  loam,  the  other  two  parts  being  composed  of  leaf 
soil,  sand,  and  decayed  manure.  Not  more  than  one-sixth  dr 
seventh  of  the  latter  should  be  used,  the  Sand  being  proportioned' 
according  to  the  texture  of  the’ loam.  During  the  past  year  our 
plants  have  been  grown  in  soil  that  had  produced  a  crop  of 
Cucumbers  with  the  addition  of  sand  and  one-third  leaf  mould. 
When  potting  is  completed  the  bulbs  must  be  about  three-quarters- 
of  an  inch  above  the  soil,  leaving  plenty  of  room  for  water.  There 
are  usually  a  number  of  eyes  that  produce  suckers  and  give  endh  ss 
trouble  after  they  start  into  growth.  They  are  quickly  removed 
with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  the  time  required  before  potting  is 
labour  well  spent.  When  they  are  allowed  to  grow  they  rob  the 
plant  of  support  that  would  otherwise  be  concentrated  in  the  pro¬ 
duction  of  the  stem  and  flowers.  It  is  important  that  the  soil  be 
in  an  intermediate  state  of  moisture,  as  the  application  of  water 
is  injurious  before  root- 
growth  has  commenced. 
If  the  pots  can  be 
plunged  where  the  bottom 
heat  ranges  65°  to  70°,  and 
the  temperature  of  the 
structure  is  60°,  the  plant® 
will  quickly  commence 
rooting  and  growing.  We 
prefer  to  cover  the  surface 
of  the  soil  and  rim  of 
the  pot  with  the  plunging 
material  to  arrest  evapora¬ 
tion  and  obviate  the  neces¬ 
sity  for  watering.  Where 
bottom  heat  cannot  be 
given  stand  them  on  the 
surface  of  a  bed,  in  the 
temperature  named,  and  fill 
the  space  between  the  pots 
with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse, 
covering  the  surface  as 
advised  for  those  plunged. 
Bulbs  started  during 
November,  December,  and 
January  may  be  subjected 
to  the  same  treatment. 
Those  started  afterwards 
will  do  very  well  in  warm 
vineries  or  Peach  houses. 
It  is  not  wise  to  start  them 
in  greenhouses  before  the 
beginning  of  March,  and  in 
all  cases  plunge  or  cover 
the  pots  to  prevent  the 
soil  drying.  Even  in  May, 
however,  we  prefer  to  start 
them  in  any  structure 
where  a  little  heat  is  main¬ 
tained,  and  then  remove 
them  to  cold  frames  or  a 
cool  house.  When  they  are 
growing  and  rooting  freely 
they  will  bear  without  in¬ 
jury  the  cool  airy  treat¬ 
ment  of  the  greenhouse  or  cold  frames  where  the  lights  can  be 
thrown  off  during  fine  warm  days.  Those  required  for  flowering 
during  the  two  last  months  of  the  year  may  be  plunged  outside 
in  a  sunny  position,  where  they  can  remain  until  the  middle  of 
September.  Amateurs  who  have  only  a  greenhouse  would  do 
well  to  pot  only  two  supplies  of  bulbs—  namely,  on  the  1st  of 
March  and  on  the  Ist  of  the  following  month. 
The  bulbs  potted  early  should  have  the  plunging  material 
removed  from  the  surface  of  the  soil  as  scon  as  active  growth 
has  commenced,  and  supply  the  plants  with  tepid  water  as  they 
need  it.  They  can  have  the  advantage  of  bottom  heat  until  the 
flower  spike  is  visible,  when  they  may  be  lifted  out  and  stood 
upon  the  surface.  After  they  reach  this  stage  bottom  heat  affords 
no  help,  for  the  spikes  are  quickly  developed  and  commence 
unfolding  their  flowers.  Arrange  them  as  near  the  glass  as  possible 
to  keep  the  foliage  dwarf  and  sturdy.  If  the  flowers  are  only  needed 
for  cutting  the  plants  can  be  packed  closely  together  without  the 
slightest  injury.  Those  housed  about  the  middle  of  September 
may  be  placed  where  they  will  enjoy  a  temperature  that  does  not 
fall  below  50°.  In  this  position  the  flower  spikes  will  quickly 
appear,  and  the  plants  may  be  introduced  into  a  higher  temperature 
as  required.  After  October  they  should  not  be  in  a  lower  tempera¬ 
ture  than  55°,  which  may  be  increased  6°  to  10°  by  the  time  they 
