September  10,  1896.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER,  263 
a  few  days  only  before  ase,  or  not  for  a  few  days  after  treatment  with 
the  lime,  otherwise  some  of  the  chlorine  may  go  over  to  the  lime  and 
form  chloride  of  lime,  which  is  more  or  less  inimical  to  useful  vegetation. 
Where  gas  liqaor  cannot  be  had  fresh  gas  lime  may  be  used  at  the  rate 
of  2  lbs.  per  square  yard,  mixing  it  evenly  with  the  soil  to  a  foot  depth. 
Tliis  sterilises  the  earth  for  some  time,  indeed  until  it  becomes  changed 
into  gypsum  (sulphate  of  lime)  or  its  poisonous  properties,  chiefly 
■cyanogen,  have  passed  off.  This  occupies  about  six  months,  as  soil  so 
treated  shonld  not  be  used  again  until  the  spring  when  operated  on 
in  autumn. 
The  house  must  also  be  scalded,  using  boiling  (or  as  near  as  may 
Tie)  water  on  the  walls  of  the  bed,  so  that  it  may  reach  the  pests  in 
the  crevices  and  holes  sufficiently  hot  to  compass  their  destruction. 
Then  cleanse  the  woodwork  with  warm  water  and  carbolic  or  petroleum 
■softsoap,  using  a  brush,  limewashing  the  walls,  and  making  all  as  clean 
and  thoroughly  disinfected  as  possible.  Remember  that  none  of  these 
■measures  is  of  any  use  unless  the  soil  is  also  disinfected,  for  the 
eelworms  are  chiefly  introduced  in  the  soil,  and  for  that  matter  root 
mites,  it  not  being  possible  to  And  loam  or  other  soil  containing  the 
root  stems  and  nitrogenic  nodosities  of  leguminous  plants  entirely  free 
from  eelworms  and  mites,  their  attacks  being  chiefly  confined  to  organic 
matter,  dead  or  living,  especially  rich  in  nitrogen,  and  their  attacks  are 
most  pronounced  on  plants  grown  in  such  soil.  Heating  the  turf 
through  to  a  temperature  above  125°  is  the  simplest  means  of  freeing  it 
from  parasites  of  this  nature  ;  but  scalding  with  water  equally  sterilises 
the  soil  as  regards  spores  of  fungi,  seeds  of  weeds,  and  animals  of  every 
kind. 
If  fermenting  material  is  used  for  bottom  heat  it  should  be  in 
preparation  by  throwing  into  a  heap,  damping,  and  turning  over  to 
induce  fermentation  and  the  dissipation  of  noxious  vapours  before 
making  up  the  beds.  Bottom  heat,  however,  is  better  supplied  by  hot- 
water  pipes  surrounded  and  covered  with  rubble,  or  placed  in  a 
chamber  under  the  bed. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Polnsettlas. — Poinsettias  are  not  growing  satisfactorily  under  cold 
frame  treatment.  It  will  be  necessary  to  encourage  them  by  artificial 
heat.  They  should  be  kept  growing  steadily,  air  being  admitted  freely 
whenever  the  weather  is  warm.  When  fire  heat  is  used  leave  a  little 
air  on  tbe  frame  both  day  and  night.  Water  with  care  those  plants  that 
are  compelled  to  be  grown  in  cold  frames,  or  the  roots  will  perish, 
and  result  in  the  lower  leaves  turning  yellow  and  eventually  falling. 
Euphorbias,  Plumbagos,  and  other  plants  of  a  like  nature  will  do 
better  if  they  can  have  gentle  heat  while  the  present  sunless  weather 
continues. 
Begonias. — Though  practically  at  a  standstill  in  cold  frames  no 
harm  will  result  to  plants  that  are  well  advanced  and  already  large 
enough  for  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  required.  Care  is  needed  in 
not  giving  too  much  water  or  allowing  the  atmosphere  about  the  plants 
to  become  too  moist.  The  foliage  is  liable  to  damp,  especially  large- 
foliaged  forms  of  the  B.  manicata  type.  Water  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  and  maintain  a  moderately  dry  atmosphere  about  the  plants. 
Those  in  a  backward  state  of  growth  should  be  encouraged  by  gentle 
heat.  Do  not  grow  them  too  warm  or  too  close.  If  they  are  to  flower 
well  firm  sturdy  growth  is  necessary.  Place  into  4-inch  pots  all  young 
plants  of  B.  nitida  alba  and  B.  rosea,  also  B.  Ingrami  and  others  that  are 
well  rooted.  Cuttings  of  the  last  may  still  be  rooted ;  they  will  be 
useful  in  spring  if  wintered  in  small  pots.  The  forms  of  B.  nitida 
rooted  now  will  also  be  useful  in  the  stove  in  spring.  Place  into  4-inch 
pots  seedlings  of  B.  semperflorens  varieties,  and  transfer  smaller  plants 
from  the  seed  pans  into  small  pots.  B.  semperflorens  carminea  when 
rooted  should  be  grown  in  a  light  position,  where  it  can  enjoy  a  little 
warmth.  When  ready  for  transference  into  4-inch  pots  remove  the 
points  of  the  plants  to  induce  them  to  throw  up  from  the  base.  Where 
stage  room  cannot  be  devoted  to  the  stock  of  Begonias  needed  for  cutting 
they  can  be  grown  well  in  small  baskets  suspended  from  the  roof  of 
stoves  and  intermediate  houses.  Useful  baskets  can  be  formed  by  placing 
a  plant  of  B.  semperflorens  carminea  in  the  centre  and  B  Ingrami  round 
the  sides  of  it.  They  soon  become  a  mass  of  growth,  and  then  flower 
profusely.  Few  flowering  plants  are  more  useful  than  these  for  furnish¬ 
ing  vases  for  home  decoration.  Unfortunately  they  do  not  travel  well, 
<even  when  the  utmost  care  is  taken  to  pack  them. 
Xilllum  candldum. — Imported  bulbs  can  now  be  obtained,  and 
should  be  potte  1  for  early  flowering  without  delay.  Large  bulbs  should 
be  placed  singly  in  7-inch  pots,  in  a  mixture  of  good  loam  two  parts,  the 
■other  part  being  composed  of  leaf  mould  and  sand,  adding  one-seventh 
of  decayed  manure.  Cover  the  bulbs  about  an  inch  below  the  surface, 
and  stand  them  outside  if  a  cold  frame  cannot  be  devoted  to  them.  For 
oarly  flowering  it  is  better  to  place  the  pots  in  a  cold  frame,  and  cover 
the  surface  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  to  prevent  having  to  water  them 
too  frequently.  After  flowering  bulbs  can  be  lifted  from  the  open  borders 
and  potted  in  the  same  way.  The  flowering  stem  should  be  cut  down 
directly  the  plants  have  flowered,  the  sooner  they  are  lifted  and  repotted 
afterwards  the  better. 
Xilllum  Harrlsl. — Imported  bulbs  can  now  be  had,  and  as  they 
flower  before  the  old  L.  longiflornm  they  are  worth  growing  in  quantity. 
The  plants  are  highly  appreciated  either  for  grouping  or  for  cutting 
the  flowers.  Bulbs  potted  at  once  may  be  had  in  flower  by  Easter, 
liiliums  are  much  subject  to  attacks  of  aphides,  and  it  is  almost  impos¬ 
sible  to  grow  them  without.  Keeping  the  plants  clean  after  they  once 
start  into  growth  is  the  greatest  difficulty  the  grower  has  to  contend 
against.  Large  bulbs  sbouid  be  placed  into  7-inch  pots,  those  of  a 
smaller  size  into  5  and  6-inch.  Use  the  compost  advised  for  L.  candidum, 
and  give  the  bulbs  the  same  treatment. 
Roman  Hyaclntbs. — A  good  number  of  these  should  be  potted  for 
early  flowering.  Place  five  bulbs  into  each  5-inch  pot  in  a  mixture  of 
loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand,  with  one-seventh  of  manure  added.  Be 
careful  that  the  soil  is  in  an  intermediate  state  for  moisture,  so  that  no 
water  is  needed  before  the  pots  are  placed  outside  and  covered  with 
ashes.  Successional  plants  should  be  potted  at  intervals  of  three  weeks 
or  a  month  until  the  end  of  October. 
Freeslas. — Pot  the  main  stock  of  home-grown  bulbs  thickly  together 
in  3  and  4-inch  pots.  The  bulbs  increase  rapidly  every  year,  and  the 
small  ones  should  be  placed  together  in  pans,  they  soon  make  flowering 
bulbs.  After  these  bulbs  are  potted  place  them  in  a  cold  frame,  and 
cover  the  surface  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  until  they  begin  to  grow. 
Whan  once  they  have  fairly  started  into  growth  place  them  on  a  shelf 
close  to  the  glass,  where  they  will  enjoy  abundance  of  air.  If  hurried 
in  their  early  stages  they  seldom  do  well.  Freesias  are  most  useful 
for  cutting,  and  may  be  potted  in  batches  at  intervals  of  a  month 
according  to  the  demand. 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Marketing  Honey. 
If  previous  instructions  have  been  carried  out,  very  little  work 
will  remain  to  be  done  in  the  apiary.  The  majority  of  the  stocks 
will  have  been  supplied  with  the  necessary  stores  to  last  them 
until  spring.  Bee-keepers  will  now  be  on  the  look  out  for  a  market 
for  their  produce.  Some  will  doubtless  be  in  the  happy  position 
of  having  sold  all  the  honey  they  possess,  or,  what  amounts  to  the 
same  thing,  will  have  accepted  orders,  to  be  delivered  as  required, 
all  the  honey  they  have  to  offer.  In  the  latter  category  I  may 
class  myself,  having  received  orders  during  last  spring,  before  any 
surplus  was  stored,  for  more’  honey  than  I  have  obtained,  the  past 
season  not  being  a  favourable  one  in  this  district  (Midlands).  I 
will,  however,  devote  a  few  notes  to  this  subject  in  a  future  article. 
I  would  impress  on  all  bee-keepers,  whether  they  have  little  or 
much  honey  to  dispose  of,  the  necessity  of  placing  it  on  the  market 
in  as  neat  a  manner  as  possible.  I  am  afraid  many  bee-keepers  do 
not  give  as  much  attention  to  this  matter  as  it  deserves.  One  may 
learn  a  lesson  from  the  foreigner  in  this  respect,  not  only  in  the 
marketing  of  honey,  but  in  the  way  the  produce  from  other 
countries  is  placed  on  our  markets.  One  and  all  are  so  packed 
that  they  come  to  hand  in  admirable  condition,  although  in  many 
instances  they  have  travelled  thousands  of  miles. 
Packages  for  Comb  Honey. 
These  should  always  be  of  a  convenient  size,  and  the  aim  of 
bee-keepers  should  be  to  endeavour  to  please  the  eye.  A  well- 
finished  section  of  comb  honey  cannot  well  be  improved.  If  the 
wood  is  cleaned  of  all  propolis  nothing  more  in  a  general  way  is 
required.  The  stains  caused  by  this  are  sometimes  difiieult  to 
eradicate,  and  for  removing  them  I  find  nothing  better  than  coarse 
sandpaper.  This  will  quickly  make  them  look  as  clean  as  when 
first  they  left  the  manufacturer’s  hands,  and  will  sell  much  more 
readily  than  those  that  have  not  been  taken  any  trouble  with.  Some 
bee-keepers  glaze  their  sections.  This  is  done  by  cutting  some 
glass  the  same  size  as  the  sections  and  pasting  them  round  with 
some  gummed  paper.  This  gives  them  a  very  neat  appearance 
but  it  adds  to  the  cost,  and  unless  specially  ordered  and  paid  for 
accordingly  it  is  not  advisable  to  do  it  in  an  extensive  way. 
Sections  •hoald  always  be  marked  with  a  pencil  or  stamped  on  the 
top,  so  that  they  may  always  be  stood  in  the  same  position  they 
occupied  in  the  hive.  There  will  then  be  less  danger  of  leakage,  and 
if  stored  in  a  dry  place  will  keep  for  a  considerable  time  without 
granulating. 
Oomb  honey  in  shallow  frames,  which  are  now  very  much  used 
by  some  bee-keepers  for  extracting  purposes,  and  also  for  comb 
honey  instead  of  using  sections,  does  not  sell  nearly  as  readily,  nor 
is  it  as  convenient  to  the  consumer  as  the  former.  In  packing 
comb  honey  for  travelling  either  long  or  short  distances  by  road  or 
rail  great  care  should  be  taken.  If  not  packed  firmly  it  is  easily 
damaged.  I  prefer  small  boxes  to  hold  about  two  dozen  sections, 
packed  in  single  layers,  and  they  invariably  travel  well.  I  have 
often  sent  them  long  distances  by  rail  without  a  complaint,  although 
only  common  deal  boxes  were  used. 
Packages  for  Run  Honey. 
For  honey  in  small  quantities  and  for  the  retail  trade  I  utilise 
the  1  lb.  screw-capped  glass  jars,  as  they  are  much  preferred  to  the 
tie-over  jars.  Those  I  use  are  of  English  manufacture,  and  as 
