September  24,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTLRL  AND  COTTaGE  GARDENER. 
311 
swelling  mast  not  be  allowed  to  become  so  dry  at  the  roots  as  to 
prejudice  the  foliage.  Maintain  moderate  moistare  in  the  atmosphere 
hy  damping  the  floors,  walls,  and  sides  of  the  bed  every  morning,  and  at 
closing  time  or  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  earth  up  the  roots  as 
reqaired  ;  but  late  Melons  need  less  soil  to  grow  in  than  the  midseason 
plants.  Eemove  all  superfluous  growths  as  they  appear,  and  maintain  a 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  5°  less  on  cold  nights,  70°  to  75°  by 
day,  up  to  80°  or  90°  with  sun.  Keep  the  bottom  heat  at  about  80°. 
Fruit  ripening  will  be  better  for  a  little  air  constantly  ;  a  dry  condition 
at  the  roots,  b^at  not  so  as  to  cause  the  foliage  to  flag,  accelerates  the 
ripening  process,  and  enhances  the  quality. 
In  Pits  and  Frames. — In  those  heated  by  fermenting  material  no 
•water  will  be  required  after  this  time  unless  the  soil  is  dry  and  the 
foliage  becomes  limp,  which  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  do.  Any  water 
given  mast  be  so  supplied  as  not  to  wet  the  foliage,  stems,  and  surface 
of  the  bed  more  than  can  be  helped.  Keep  the  frames  well  lined, 
admitting  a  little  air  constantly,  which,  with  the  fruit  raised  well  above 
the  surface  of  the  bed,  will  do  much  to  accelerate  the  ripening,  prevent 
decay,  and  impart  flavour.  Any  fruit  it  is  wished  to  keep  for  a  time 
should  be  cut  when  changing  for  ripening  with  a  good  portion  of  stem, 
'  -and  be  kept  in  a  dry  airy  room,  or  if  wanted  ripe  at  once  it  may  be 
placed  in  a  warm  airy  house  on  a  shelf  in  the  full  sun. 
Cucumbers. — Autumn  Fruiters. — Maintain  a  healthy  and  vigorous 
growth,  taking  care  not  to  overwater,  and  above  all  things  not  to  over¬ 
crop  the  plants.  Secure  a  temperature  of  75°,  say  6»°  at  night,  70°  to 
75°  by  day  artificially,  and  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat.  Although  a  moist 
and  genial  atmosphere  is  essential,  a  stagnant  one  should  be  avoided  by 
careful  ventilation  or  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes,  being 
particular  not  to  admit  cold  and  drying  currents  of  air.  Employ  water 
sparingly,  especially  over  the  foliage,  a  genial  atmosphere  being  secured 
by  damping  the  floors,  walls,  and  sides  of  the  beds  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon,  but  gradually  reduce  the  moisture  as  the  days  shorten  and 
the  sun  heat  declines,  Add  a  little  fresh  soil  as  the  roots  protrude  at  the 
sides  of  the  hillocks  or  ridges,  previously  warmed,  about  every  ten  days 
or  a  fortnight ;  supply  liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week  as  may  be 
necessary,  and  fumigate  moderately  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings 
in  case  of  an  attack  of  aphides  or  thrips.  For  red  spider  brush  a  little 
cream  of  su’phur,  formed  of  flowers  and  skim  milk,  on  the  hot- water 
pipes.  This  is  equally  effective  against  white  fly  and  mildew.  For  the 
latter  only  flowers  of  sulphur  may  be  dusted  on  the  affected  parts  or 
over  the  plants  as  a  preventive,  but  the  more  it  is  kept  from  the  soil  the 
better  for  the  roots. 
Winter  Fruiters. — The  stock  having  been  planted  early  in  the 
month  will  have  taken  to  the  soil,  and  require  additions  of  soil  as  the 
roots  protrude  through  the  surface.  The  soil  must  be  warm  and  of  a 
fibrous  nature,  such  as  light  turfy  loam,  with  a  third  part  of  fibrous 
q)eat,  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  and  a  twelfth  of  charcoal,  the  whole 
well  incorporated.  If  the  plants  have  not  been  placed  in  their  fruiting 
quarters  no  time  should  be  lost,  using  the  before-named  compost  and 
having  it  moderately  firm,  moist,  and  warmed,  so  that  the  roots  may  take 
to  it  at  once.  It  is  better  to  rely  on  top-dressings  of  chemical  fertilisers, 
liquid  maunre,  and  surface  mulching  than  to  employ  manure  in  the 
compost  for  imparting  vigour.  If  the  plants  are  not  a  good  colour, 
apply  a  top-dressing  of  two  parts  air-slaked  best  chalk  lime,  dry  and 
floury,  and  one  part  dry  clean  soot,  using  half  a  pound  per  square  yard. 
This  is  one  of  the  best  antidotes  to  bacteriosis — a  disease  causing 
exudation  at  the  collar  and  joints  of  the  stem  and  branches,  and  there 
are  few  things  to  beat  it  for  putting  colour  and  health  into  the  foliage 
and  fruits.  It  may  be  mixed  with  the  soil  for  the  plants  to  the  extent 
of  one  part  of  the  mixture  to  twenty  of  the  compost.  A  good  bottom 
heat  is  essential  to  success  in  winter  Cucumber  culture,  whether  it  be 
obtained  by  the  aid  of  fermenting  materials  or  hot-water  pipes,  but  a 
much  higher  temperature  is  needed  to  commence  with  if  fermenting 
materials  are  employed,  as  the  heat  will  decline,  and  there  should  be  hot- 
water  pipes  beneath  to  keep  up  the  bottom  heat  when  that  of  the 
fermenting  material  declines.  Chambered  beds  are  the  best,  especially 
where  there  is  plenty  of  piping,  so  that  there  is  no  need  to  heat  that  to 
a  high  temperature. 
Stra-wberrles  In  Pots. — The  plants  must  not  be  neglected  for 
water.  Needless  supplies  seriously  injure  them  by  making  the  soil 
sodden  and  jour,  causing  the  destruction  of  the  fibry  roots  ;  yet  allowing 
the  foliage  to  flag  is  a  frequent  cause  of  the  trusses  having  puny  flowers 
and  antherless  stamens.  When  the  soil  is  getting  dry  and  before  the 
foliage  flags  is  the  time  to  supply  water,  and  in  quantity  sufficient  to 
thoroughly  moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage.  The  batches  of 
La  Grosse  S^crde  and  Royal  Sovereign,  which  with  Vicomtesse  Hericart 
de  Thury  are  unsurpassed  when  quality  is  considered,  should  be  given 
plenty  of  room  in  the  sunniest  position  at  command,  and  they  may 
shortly  be  placed  in  frames,  plunged  in  ashes  to  the  rim,  and  so  near  the 
glass  that  the  foliage  is  just  clear,  only  using  the  lights  in  frosty  weather 
and  to  throw  off  heavy  rains  and  snow,  ventilating  freely  when  the 
weather  is  mild.  In  some  varieties  a  number  of  small  crowns  cluster 
round  the  central  one.  These  small  crowns  should  be  removed  sideways 
with  a  wedge-like  piece  of  wood  without  injuring  the  central  one  or 
leaves.  By  so  doing  the  vigour  of  the  plants  will  be  concentrated  on  the 
main  crowns,  and  though  the  trusses  of  bloom  will  be  fewer,  the  fruit 
will  be  finer  in  consequence.  Keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  rather  loose, 
so  as  to  secure  the  water  passing  equally  through  the  ball  and  moistening 
it  thoroughly.  A  little  dried  cow  manure  or  horse  droppings  rubbed 
fine  applied  to  the  surface  of  the  pots  aids  root  formation,  and  a  little 
bone  superphosphate,  say  a  pinch  between  the  finger  and  thumb  to  each 
pot  occasionally,  assists  the  root  action  and  the  plumping  of  the  crowns. 
PLANT  HOUSES 
Crotons. — Plants  that  have  fine  heads  and  have  become  bare  at  the 
base  may  be  partially  cut  through  and  mossed.  Where  they  can  be  kept 
close  and  moist  they  will  quickly  throw  out  roots,  and  be  well  estab¬ 
lished  in  small  pots  before  winter.  Good  heads  mossed  and  rooted  now 
make  capital  plants  for  growing  on  early  in  the  year,  when  large  finely 
developed  plants  are  needed.  Large  pieces  can  with  certainty,  and 
without  losing  a  single  leaf,  be  taken  off  by  this  method,  and  arc  soon 
ready  again  for  table  and  other  forms  of  decoration.  All  side  shoots 
that  are  rooted,  and  are  needed  for  table  decoration  or  single  vases, 
have  the  heads  removed  after  they  commence  forming  large  bold 
foliage.  It  is  only  by  constant  re-rooting  that  good  supplies  of  well- 
furnished  plants  can  be  kept  in  the  best  possible  condition  in  a  small 
state, 
Acalyphas. — Plants  that  have  grown  too  tall  may  be  mossed  in  the 
same  way  as  advised  for  Crotons.  Although  good  heads  of  these  plants 
root  with  certainty  in  a  suitable  place,  large  plants  can  be  obtained 
more  quickly  by  the  mossing  system.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  taking 
off  heads  fully  18  inches  in  length  with  large  bold  leaves  from  the  base 
to  the  top.  If  well  rooted  in  the  moss  they  only  need  a  shady  position 
for  a  week  or  ten  days  in  a  close  warm  atmosphere.  The  same  remark 
applies  to  Crotons,  when  both  may  be  again  gradually  exposed  to  the 
sun.  Small  well  coloured  pieces  of  these  plants  as  well  as  Crotons  may 
be  rooted  in  small  pots,  for  they  will  be  found  useful  during  the  winter 
in  association  with  small  Ferns  and  Mosses, 
Panlcam  variegatam. — Quantities  of  this  plant  should  be  rooted 
in  small  pots,  the  cuttings  being  inserted  thickly  and  placed  into  the 
propagating  frame  until  they  are  well  rooted.  Although  these  plants  do 
not  last  long  in  good  condition  in  rooms  during  the  dark  days  of  winter 
they  are  nevertheless  useful  for  edging  groups  and  near  tne  margin  of 
baskets  that  have  to  be  filled  with  plants.  Variegated  forms  of  Trades- 
cantias  may  also  be  rooted  in  quantity  in  boxes  as  well  as  in  small  pots. 
When  in  the  latter  insert  the  cutting*  thickly,  and  repot  them  after  they 
attain  a  length  of  5  inches.  They  root  quickly  in  any  close  warm 
position. 
Coleases. — Bright  coloured  varieties  are  also  useful  in  2-inch  pots  ; 
for  this  purpose  good  heads  only  need  be  rooted  and  not  pinched  after¬ 
wards.  When  they  grow  too  tall  they  may  be  re- rooted.  They  strike 
freely  on  a  shelf  close  to  the  glass  in  a  warm  house  if  well  watered  and 
shaded  from  the  sun.  Coleuses  do  not  last  long,  but  they  are  easily 
raised,  and  are  invaluable  where  many  small  plants  are  needed. 
Caladlums.— Some  of  the  earliest  plants  are  beginning  to  naturally 
lose  their  foliage  these  should  be  allowed  to  rest.  Gradually 
decrease  the  supply  of  water,  but  do  not  prematurely  send  them  to  rest 
or  place  them  in  a  cold  position,  as  under  such  conditions  the  tubers  are 
liable  to  decay.  In  a  temperature  of  60°  they  will  be  safe.  Late 
vineries  where  heat  is  still  maintained  are  capital  places  for  them. 
Plants  of  Caladium  argyrites  that  have  had  a  long  season  of  rest  may  be 
started  into  growth.  Remove  the  old  tubers  from  amongst  the  old  soil 
and  pot  them  into  fresh.  The  most  suitable  sizes  are  3  and  5-inch  pots. 
After  potting  plunge  them  in  the  propagating  frame  and  cover  the 
surface  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  until  the  plants  start  into  growth. 
These  plants  are  not  only  useful  in  pots,  but  the  foliage  is  invaluable  for 
cutting  during  the  winter  and  spring  months  when  flowers  are  not  too 
plentiful. 
Selaglnella  Krausslana  (N.  dentieulhta'). — A  good  number  of 
.3,  4,  and  5-inch  pots  can  be  made  up  now.  Tne  best  method  is  to  fill 
the  pots  with  light  soil  slightly  raised  above  the  rim  and  dibble  small 
pieces  thickly  over  the  surface.  They  grow  quickly  if  kept  moist  and 
shaded,  often  succeeding  as  well  on  the  floor  of  moist  houses  as  when 
given  more  favourable  positions. 
Gloxinias. — Gradually  withhold  water  from  all  that  are  showing 
signs  of  going  to  rest.  Do  not  ripen  them  too  quickly.  Repot  seedlings 
into  4  and  5-inch  pots.  Those  that  are  still  small  should  be  grown  on  a 
shelf  where  they  can  enjoy  a  little  warmth.  With  care  these  plants  may 
be  bad  in  flower  throughout  the  whole  year.  Tubers  that  have  enjoyed 
a  fair  season  of  rest  may  be  started  again  into  growth.  If  a  few  are 
started  at  intervals  of  a  month  a  long  succession  of  flowers  will  be 
obtained. 
m 
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IHB  BBE-KBEPBR. 
i-i  -  1  -  I  -  I  •  I  ■  I  •  I  1  - 1  - 1  -  I  -  I  -  I  -  I  -  I  -  '  -  I  - 1  - '  -  I  -rn 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
The  Weather. 
The  heavy  rainfall  experienced  during  the  pa*t  three  weeks  has 
had  the  effect  of  making  the  paitures  look  more  like  spring  than 
autumn.  The  flowers  unfortunately  are  ruined  beyond  recovery, 
in  marked  contrast  to  last  autumn,  when  we  were  favoured  with 
bright  sunny  day*  and  a  remarkably  high  temperature  which 
prevailed  throughout  the  month  of  September,  Flowers  were  then 
blooming  in  all  directions,  and  bees  were  busy  collecting  both 
honey  and  pollen  until  early  in  October ;  breeding  was  going  on 
apace,  and  as  the  weather  was  mild  it  continued  almost  without 
ceasing  throughout  the  winter.  At  present  the  prospects  are  very 
different,  the  temperature  being  much  lower,  and  already  there  have 
