328 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
cto'ber  1,  UM 
FLOWER  GARDEN  NOTES. 
Thk  life  of  a  gardener  ie  a  pleasant  one  provided  the  man  has  a 
thorough  liking  for  hit  work.  Unless  this  it  the  case  the  well-nigh 
unceasing  hoars  of  lahoni  must  at  times  seem  intolerable,  instead  of 
being  a  constant  scarce  of  real  pleasure.  True  gardeners,  I  think,  are 
never  happier  than  when  in  the  garden,  and  often  grudge  the  time  to 
occasionally  “  tear  ”  themselves  away  from  the  scene  of  their  labours. 
To  such  every  season  of  the  year  is  a  very  busy  one.  The  tpring  and 
summer  months  are  often  regarded  as  the  high  pressure  ones  for 
gardeners,  but  when  the  autumn  comes  round  each  year  I  fancy  there  is 
no  busier  time.  Especially  is  this  so  where  Chrysanthemums  are  grown 
in  large  quantities  to  provide  a  feast  of  flowers,  and  where  in  addition 
to  routine  work  planting  and  improvements  are  the  order  of  the  day.  In 
fact  in  the  aatumn  months  work  is  pressing  upon  us  in  all  directions. 
These  thoughts  passed  swiftly  through  my  mind  as  I  sat  down 
to-night  to  enjoy  a  quiet  pipe  of  the  fragrant  weed,  while  meditating 
upon  the  method  to  be  adopted  in  the  dismantlement  and  replanting  of 
the  flower  garden.  After  allowing  my  thoughts  to  wander  to  various 
subjects,  all  connected  with  gardening,  I  eventually  arranged  my  ideas 
into  a  plan  of  action,  a  plan  not  perhaps  so  "  unalterable  as  the  laws  of 
the  Medes  and  Persians,”  but  still  one  which  will  in  the  main  be  carried 
out  during  the  next  fortnight.  Seasonable  and  practical  articles  I  know 
are  welcomed  in  the  pages  of  the  Journal  of  Ilorticulture,  so  I  will 
endeavour,  like  others,  to  pen  one  for  our  favourite  paper  from  which  I 
have  received  so  much  useful  information. 
Clearing  the  Beds. 
I  am  so  thoroughly  convinced  of  the  superior  flowering  qualities  of 
old  Pelargoniums  that  I  invariably  preserve  a  number  each  year.  At 
one  time  I  used  to  place  these  closely  together  in  boxes,  but  they  are 
more  satisfactory  if  potted  singly,  so  I  now  adhere  as  far  as  possible  to 
that  plan.  After  being  lifted  the  roots  are  trimmed,  straggling  shoots 
cut  back  to  a  young  break,  and  all  large  leaves  removed,  leaving  only 
the  young  ones  at  the  points  of  the  shoots.  This  reduces  the  chances  of 
decay  through  damp  to  a  minimum.  Each  plant  is  then  potted  firmly 
in  a  large  fiO-sized  pot.  They  are  then  placed  in  vineries,  heated  pits, 
cool  or  warm  houses,  wherever  a  little  vacant  space  can  be  found. 
Under  this  ruthless  treatment  a  small  percentage  die,  but  those  left  by 
bedding  out  time  bristle  with  flowers  and  buds,  and  when  planted  soon 
become  a  blaze  of  colour.  Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums  are  consigned  to 
the  rubbish  heap,  as  they  are  progagated  so  easily  and  grow  so  quickly 
that  it  is  seldom  necessary  to  trouble  about  old  plants.  Tuberous 
Begonias  have  their  stems  shortened,  they  are  then  lifted,  packed  closely 
together  in  boxes  with  a  little  soil  worked  in  between,  and  then  placed 
in  pits  or  frames  till  the  stems  die  down. 
Frost-proof  sheds  then  serve  for  their  winter  quarters,  no  water 
being  given  till  they  are  started  in  the  spring.  Cannas-^which  are  now 
quite  indispensable  flower  garden  plants— are  potted,  placed  under  green¬ 
house  stages  and  gradually  dried  off.  Any  that  have  flower  spikes  not 
fully  developed,  if  placed  in  a  greenhouse  or  slightly  warmer  structure  will 
flower  freely  and  form  noble  looking  specimens  for  some  weeks  to  come. 
Fuchsias  and  tall  Pelargoniums  that  have  been  used  as  dot  plants 
should  be  potted  and  placed  wherever  convenient  winter  quarters 
can  be  found  for  them.  The  former  do  well  if  stood  in  a  sheltered 
position  in  the  open  air  till  very  sharp  frosts  occur.  By  that  time  their 
leaves  are  beginning  to  fall,  and  they  are  in  the  right  condition  for 
placing  under  stages  in  cool  bouses,  or  in  sheds  where  frosts  can  be  kept 
from  them.  If  a  larger  stock  of  Lobelias  and  Alternantberas  is  required 
a  few  old  plants  potted  now  will  supply  numWs  of  cuttings  next 
spring.  Violas  are  popular  flowering  plants  that  require  special  attention, 
as  there  are  but  few  flower  gardens  where  they  are  not  turned  to  good 
account  for  summer  as  well  as  spring  bedding. 
One-year-old  plants  I  always  replant,  as  I  find  they  give  a  maas  of 
flower  earlier  in  the  spring  than  young  ones  do,  but  they  will  not 
continue  flowering  throughout  the  summer.  They  are,  therefore,  placed 
in  beds,  which  must  necessarily  be  replanted  in  June  when  the  summer 
bedding  is  completed.  These  plants  are  therefore  now  lifted,  and  placed 
closely  together  in  a  shady  position  while  the  beds  are  being  prepared 
for  their  reception.  Dwarf  Marigolds,  which  have  during  the  plant 
season  made  such  gorgeous  beds,  are  even  now  in  full  beauty  ;  these 
beds  will  consequently  not  be  disturbed  until  king  frost  has  marred 
their  attractiveness. 
Preparing  the  Beds. 
At  the  present  time  all  flower  beds  should  be  thoroughly  dug  and 
manured  if  necessary,  because  it  is  often  the  only  period  in  the  year 
when  it  is  necessary  to  do  so  ;  for  I  find  that  many  plants  now  used  for 
summer  bedding  succeed  far  better  if  planted  in  soil  that  is  compara¬ 
tively  hardy.  This  is  especially  true  of  Marigolds  and  Tropaeolums ; 
they  make  sturdier  growths,  and  are  more  floriferoas  under  this  treat¬ 
ment.  Bearing  these  matters  in  mind  all  beds  should  therefore  be 
thoroughly  prepared  now.  Slugs,  centipedes,  and  hosts  of  minute 
insects  are  a  constant  source  of  annoyance  in  the  flower  garden. 
Applications  of  lime,  fresh  from  the  kiln,  is  one  of  the  simplest  and 
surest  means  of  destroying  these  ;  and  it  is,  I  think,  a  matter  of  some 
surprise  that  it  is  not  more  often  used  for  this  purpose.  Our  soil  is 
deficient  in  lime,  as  shown  by  the  way  in  which  Rhododendrons  flourish  ; 
but  were  it  not  so  I  should  adopt  our  present  practice  of  dusting  the 
surface  of  each  bed  as  soon  as  cleared  solely  for  the  purpose  of  killing 
insects.  No  amount  of  attention  in  other  respects  it  so  satisfactory  in 
keeping  soils  sweet  and  free  from  the  gardener’s  numerous  foes. 
The  beds  should  not  be  manured  till  a  day  after  the  lime*  has  been 
applied.  Its  caustic  properties  will  then  have  been  lost,  and  but  little- 
depreciation  in  the  fertilising  qualities  of  the  manure  will  be  caused  by 
the  lime. 
A  fine  dry  day  should  be  selected  for  digging  the  beds.  The  surface 
then  quickly  becomes  dry  enough  fortreading  and  levelling  to  take  place 
at  once.  The  soil  is  then  ready  for  planting  whenever  favourable  oppor¬ 
tunities  occur.  In  connection  with  the  details  of  this  work  of  bed  pre¬ 
paration,  it  may  be  observed  that  a  good  plan  of  action  is  to  have  a 
couple  of  men  manuring,  the  same  number  digging,  and  one  to  follow 
trenching  and  levelling. 
Treatment  of  Edgings. 
A  few  edgings  generally  require  replanting  each  autumn  ;  but  it  is 
by  no  means  necessary  to  make  a  practice  of  doing  this  with  the  whole 
of  them  at  one  season,  but  whenever  one  shows  signs  of  becoming  patchy, 
uprooting  and  re-arranging  should  be  the  order  of  the  day.  Edgings  of 
Sedums,  for  instance,  will  go  for  years  without  requiring  any  other  atten¬ 
tion  than  that  of  trimming  them  into  shape,  so  also  will  those  of  Ajuga 
reptans,  Arabia,  Aubrietias,  Thrift,  Saxifraga  hypnoides,  and  Gentiana 
acaulis.  When  replanting  is  decided  upon,  the  plants  should  be  forked- 
up,  and  the  ground — after  having  received  a  coating  of  thoroughly 
decayed  manure — be  dug,  taking  care  to  divide  the  soil  effectively  as 
the  work  proceeds.  In  forming  raised  edgings,  a  board  from  8  to  10  feet 
in  length  should  be  used.  This  ought  to  have  three  stout  pegs  driven 
in  ground  at  the  base  to  keep  it  in  position.  A  little  soil  should  then  be 
firmly  pressed  against  the  inside  of  the  board  at  each  end,  so  as  to  fix  it 
at  the  right  angle.  It  is  then  an  easy  matter  to  place  soil  against  it  all 
along,  and  make  the  soil  firm  by  treading,  the  surface  being  made  level 
with  top  of  the  board,  and  beaten  with  the  back  of  a  spade,  all  is  then 
ready  for  planting.  Before  doing  this,  the  old  plants  must  be  divided 
into  pieces  with  one  or  several  crowns  with  roots  attached,  and  these 
dibbled  in  closely  and  evenly.  A  firm  and  attractive  edging  is  them 
quickly  formed. 
In  the  case  of  Ceraitium  tomentosum,  it  is  usually  difficult  to  get  short 
pieces  with  roots  attached  ;  but  if  cuttings  are  put  in  in  little  clumpu 
they  will  callus,  if  not  root  before  winter  sets  in,  and  grow  away  freely 
enough  in  the  spring.  Those  edgings  which  are  not  replanted  should  be 
clipped  into  shape,  and  should  a  few  gaps  occur  they  will,  of  course,  be 
filled  up.  All  is  now  in  readiners  for 
Planting. 
A  definite  plan  should  be  arranged  before  this  is  begun,  so  that  those 
things  which,  for  various  reasons,  require  planting  early,  may  be  pro¬ 
ceeded  with  at  once.  I  always  plant  Wallflowers  first.  As  our  flower 
garden  is  somewhat  exposed  it  is  important  to  get  them  established  as- 
early  as  possible,  otherwise  they  present  such  a  sorry  appearance  through¬ 
out  the  winter,  and  are  apt  to  lose  their  bottom  leaves.  Sutton’s  dwarf 
bedders,  brown  and  yellow,  are  the  two  varieties  I  grow  in  the  greatest 
numbers.  Until  I  tried  these  I  had  great  difficulty  in  procuring  any 
strain  that  produced  plants  sufficiently  dwarf  and  sturdy  to  form  com¬ 
pact  heads.  Now  the  matter  is  simple  enough,  as  Sutton’s  bedders  are 
“  par  excellence  ”  in  this  respect  as  well  as  in  point  of  floriferousness. 
For  beds  of  the  yellow  variety  I  employ  edgings  of  Aubrietia  purnurea 
or  some  other  blue  or  purple  Aubrietia.  Another  good  arrangement  is  to 
have  a  groundwork  of  Myosotis  dissitiflora,  with  dot  plants  of  Wall¬ 
flowers  placed  at  intervals  of  16  inches.  The  brown  variety — or  any 
other  Wallflower  of  dark  colour — does  well  for  filling  in  beds  edged  with 
a  broad  band  of  Arabia  albida.  The  Wallflowers  are  usually  planted  so 
as  to  stand  just  clear  of  each  other,  but  sometimes  they  are  set  a  little 
further  apart  to  allow  room  for  Tulips  to  be  dotted  between  them.  White 
or  yellow  Tulips  associate  well  with  brown  and  blood  red  Tulips,  and 
yellow  or  rose  with  yellow  Wallflowers.  Silene  pendnla  com  pacta,  com¬ 
bined  with  an  edging  of  Cerastium  tomentosum,  makes  such  a  perfect 
bed  that  at  the  risk  of  being  considered  wanting  in  originality  I  adhere 
to  that  method  of  arrangement  in  several  beds  each  year.  The  white 
form  alba  looks  exceedingly  well  when  surrounded  by  a  band  of  yellow 
Viola  Bullion  or  blue  Viola  Sweet  Lavender. 
These  Silene  beds  I  dot  with  either  Tulips  or  Hyacinths,  placing  them 
10  inches  apart.  These  flower  before  the  Silene,  and  as  soon  as  their 
flowers  have  faded  the  bulbs  are  lifted  and  planted  on  grass  or  in 
shrubberies.  The  common  form  of  Myosotis,  whicn  grows  considerably 
taller  than  dissitiflora,  makes  a  highly  attractive  bed.  An  edging  of  yellow 
Viola  or  of  Limnanthes  Douglasi  is  a  suitable  one.  Wallflower  Golden 
Tom  Thumb  planted  15  inches  apart,  the  space  between  being  filled  in 
thickly  with  this  Myosotis,  and  the  whole  having  an  edging  of  yellow 
Viola,  forms  a  delightful  combination  of  colour,  as  the  spikes  of  Wall¬ 
flowers  rise  slightly  above  the  Forget-me-nots,  and  the  whole  forms  a 
dense  mass.  In  planting  Violas  we  usually  like  to  keep  to  one  colour 
for  each  bed  ;  where  this  is  done  in  a  geometrical  flower  garden  the 
general  effect  is  much  more  imposing  than  when  mixtures  are  freely 
indulged  in. 
Sometimes,  however,  we  have  isolated  beds  or  groups  of  beds  away 
from  the  main  portion  of  the  flower  garden ;  these  are  the  places  to 
practise  the  mixed  system,  as  undoubtedly  delightful  beds  are  thus 
created.  The  only  point  against  them  is  that  in  the  planting  of  a  formal 
flower  garden  each  bed  has  only  to  be  considered  as  a  part  of  the  whole 
plan  ;  its  individual  beauty  ought  to  be  made  subservient  to  the  general 
effect.  Where  mixed  beds  are  indulged  in  a  wonderfully  good  effect  is 
produced  by  blending  together  blues  of  many  shades  in  one  bed,  starting 
with  the  darkest  in  the  centre,  and  graduating  the  shades  till  the  very 
lightest  are  arranged  around  the  edges,  finishing  off  with  a  grey  band' 
such  as  we  find  in  the  foliage  of  Cerastium  tomentosum  or  Antennaria 
tomentosa.  A  bed  of  this  description  is  a  study  oa  which  the  eye  can 
