336 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  1,  1896, 
3  feet  deep.  Oak  or  Beech  leaves  being  placed  in  to  fill  the  pit,  a 
gentle  warmth  will  be  afforded  the  Vines,  and  the  roots  wiU  pass  from 
the  pots  into  tbe  leaves,  drawing  support  beneficial  to  the  growth  of  the 
Vines,  swelling  and  perfectine  of  the  Grapes,  The  temperature  at  the 
roots  ought  not  to  exceed  75°,  and  it  is  better  to  commence  with  it  at 
65°,  and  increase  the  warmth  as  the  growth  advances.  In  the  atmo¬ 
sphere,  a  temperature  of  50°  to  65°  is  suitable  until  the  buds  begin  to 
swell,  then  gradually  increase  it  to  60°  or  65°  when  they  are  breaking, 
allowing  an  advance  from  sun  heat  of  10°  to  15°.  The  canes  should  be 
depressed  to  a  horizontal  position  to  secure  the  buds  pushing  regularly. 
Damp  tbe  canes  morning  and  afternoon,  and  keep  the  soil  fairly  moist, 
but  avoid  making  it  very  wet. 
Early  Forced  Flanted-ovt  Vines. — In  order  to  have  ripe  Grapes 
with  certainty  by  the  early  part  of  April,  the  Vines  should  be  started 
by  the  middle  of  November.  It  is  not.  however,  advisable  to  start 
permanently  planted  Vines  so  early  where  there  is  convenience  for 
growing  some  in  pots,  as  very  early  forcing  is  a  great  strain  on  the 
energies  of  the  Vines  through  their  having  to  make  their  growth  at  the 
dullest  period  of  the  year  and  to  rest  at  the  hottest,  while  there  is  danger 
that  the  foliage  may  collapse  from  attacks  of  red  spider  or  mature  and 
fall  too  early,  thus  causing  the  buds  that  are  intended  to  furnish  tbe 
succeeding  year’s  crop  of  Grapes  to  start  into  growth  at  the  time  the 
Vines  should  be  dormant.  This  can  only  be  prevented  by  retaining 
some  lateral  growths  as  an  outlet  for  the  sap  absorbed  by  the  roots,  and 
will  not  do  any  harm  provided  they  are  not  allowed  to  interfere  with  the 
free  access  of  light  and  air  to  the  principal  leaves.  These  laterals  should 
be  removed  gradually  from  late  August  so  as  to  admit  of  the  Vines  being 
pruned  by  or  soon  after  the  middle  of  September,  and  they  will  not 
bleed,  nor  the  buds  be  started  into  growth,  the  house  being  kept  cool 
and  dry. 
The  Vines  intended  for  starting  at  the  time  named  must  be  attended 
to  for  pruning,  if  not  already  done,  also  those  intended  to  be  started  in 
December  should  be  pruned  as  soon  as  the  leaves  fall,  so  as  to  give  the 
Vines  a  few  weeks’  rest.  Outside  borders — a  great  mistake  where  early 
forcing  is  practised — should  be  protected  from  autumn  rains  by  a  good 
covering  of  dry  leaves,  with  a  litter  to  prevent  the  leaves  blowing  about, 
is  an  effective  protection  from  frost,  and  the  borders  need  not  be 
covered  until  they  are  well  moistened  by  the  autumn  rains,  yet  before 
they  become  soddened  and  much  reduced  in  temperature.  The  house 
should  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  and  tbe  Vines  dressed  with  an  insecticide. 
Where  there  has  been  any  mildew  or  fungus  pests  wash  the  rods  with  a 
10  per  cent,  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron,  or  1  lb.  of  copperas  to  1  gallon  of 
water,  using  a  brush,  Limewasb  tbe  walls,  adding  a  handful  of  sulphur 
to  each  pailful  of  limcwasb,  having  previously  moistened  it  and  formed 
a  paste  by  admixture  with  skim  milk.  Kemovethe  remains  of  mulchings 
and  the  loose  surface  soil,  supplying  fresh  turfy  loam,  and  sprinkle  on 
every  square  yard  a  good  handful  (about  4  ozs )  of  some  approved 
fertiliser.  This,  if  not  washed  in,  should  be  roughed  under  by  means  of 
a  fork. 
dUidseason  lionises. — Black  Hamburgh  and  other  descrintions  of  thin- 
skinned  black  Grapes  have  the  colour  taken  out  of  them  by  hanging, 
and  can  only  be  lessened  by  keeping  a  good  spread  of  foliage  or  drawing 
a  double  thickness  of  herring  nets  over  the  roof  lights.  The  latter  is  the 
preferable  plan,  as  lateral  growths  interfere  with  light  to  the  principal 
leaves,  and  the  free  access  of  air  so  desirable  for  preventing  damp  anu  to 
secure  the  maturing  of  the  wood.  Vines  from  which  the  Grapes  have 
been  cut  may  have  the  growths  cut  back  to  a  few  joints  above  the  buds, 
first  curtailing  the  laterals  and  then  cutting  back  the  main  growths. 
This  insures  the  basal  buds  becomiug  plumper,  while  the  freer  access  of 
light  and  air  affects  the  wood  favourably.  A  free  circulation  of  air  is 
necessary  to  expel  damp  where  Grapes  are  hanging,  with  a  little  con¬ 
stantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  a  gentle 
warmth  in  tbe  hot- water  pipes  being  necessary  when  the  external  air  is 
damp  and  cold,  but  the  wood  being  ripe  and  the  growth  matured  it  will 
suffice  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°,  and  the  cooler  by  day  the  house 
is  kept  the  longer  will  the  Grapes  keep  plump.  Vines  that  have  not  the 
wood  ripe  should  have  a  temperature  of  60°,  and  this  must  be  continued 
until  there  is  no  doubt  on  that  point.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  check, 
not  allowing  them  to  interfere  with  the  chief  growths. 
Late  Grapes. — Where  the  Vines  were  started  in  March  and  aided  in 
the  spring  by  fire  beat,  as  well  as  during  the  summer,  the  Grapes  will 
be  thoroughly  ripe,  which  is  much  better  than  having  to  maintain  a 
forcing  temperature  after  October  comes  in  to  secure  the  ripening  of  tbe 
fruit  and  the  maturity  of  the  growths.  In  the  latter  case  the  tempera¬ 
ture  must  not  be  less  than  70°  to  75°  by  day  and  65°  at  night,  falling  5° 
through  the  night,  allowing  an  advance  to  80°  or  86°  from  sun  heat, 
continuing  this  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe  and  the  wood  brown  and  hard. 
The  fruit  being  thoroughly  ripe,  in  which  state  only  can  Grapes  be 
expected  1o  keep  satisfactorily,  and  the  wood  thoroughly  matured,  all 
sprays  or  laterals  may  be  removed  by  degrees  down  to  the  main  buds, 
ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Fire  heat  will  only  be 
necessary  bo  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  50°,  a  gentle  warmth 
in  the  hot-water  pipes  and  a  “  crack"  of  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  is 
necessary  to  prevent  moisture  being  condensed  on  the  berries,  especially 
in  the  case  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  which  is  very  liable  to  “spot"  and 
decay  at  the  sbank  in  dull  moist  periods,  particularly  in  a  confined 
atmosphere  ;  but  the  temperature  should  not  exceed  55°  after  the  Grapes 
are  thoroughly  ripened.  To  prevent  dust  falling  or  setting  on  the  berries 
raking  the  borders  or  sweeping  the  pathways  must  not  be  practised. 
Mats  or  clean  dry  straw  laid  on  the  inside  borders  will  to  some  extent 
prevent  evaporation,  assist  in  keeping  the  atmosphere  dry,  and  prevent 
the  soil  cracking.  The  outside  borders  must  be  covered,  especially  io 
the  case  of  thin-skinned  G'apes,  if  the  fruit  is  to  keep  well.  Glass  lights 
are  best,  tarpaulin  over  dry  bracken  excellent,  and  a  good  thatch  of  dry 
bracken  or  straw  is  very  serviceable. 
Young  Vines. —  In  the  case  of  these  having  a  disposition  to  continue 
growing  to  a  late  period  stopping  the  laterals  moderately  will  check  it, 
and  the  ripening  of  the  wood  be  facilitated  by  a  high  temperature  and 
dry  atmosphere  by  day,  shutting  off  the  heat,  and  keeping  the  ventilators 
open  at  night.  In  other  cases  the  laterals  should  be  gradually  reduced- 
down  to  the  principal  leaves,  especially  in  the  case  of  supernumeraries 
intended  to  produce  fruit  next  season,  the  laterals  in  this  instance  being 
cut  away  close  to  the  canes,  and  when  the  leaves  give  indications  of= 
maturing  the  Vines  may  be  shortened  to  the  length  desired  for  fruiting. 
The  early  pruning  has  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  buds,  and  there  is  time 
for  the  wounds  to  become  healed  or  dried,  so  that  there  is  not  any  danger 
of  bleeding  ;  but  to  prevent  that  the  cuts  may  bj  carefully  dressed  with 
styptic,  patent  knotting,  or  best  French  polish. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Carnations  and  Plcotees. — A  showery  season  has  been  favourable 
to  tbe  rooting  of  the  layers  generally,  and  abundance  of  strong  plants- 
ought  now  to  be  available.  Newly  rooted  plants  of  choice  varieties,  as 
a  rule,  are  potted  and  stored  in  cold  pits  and  dry  frames,  though 
whether  in  many  cases  they  would  not  do  better  planted  out  is  a  moot 
point.  Supposing  the  layers  are  plentiful,  both  plans  might  well  be- 
resorted  to,  a  failure  being  thereby  guarded  against,  and  it  may  be  the- 
foundation  of  a  greater  success  than  usual  be  laid.  Those  to  be  potted 
should  be  separated  from  the  parent  plants  with  a  moderate  amount 
of  soil  about  the  roots,  and  be  given  well  drained  3-inch,  or  rather 
larger  sizes  if  need  be,  and  a  compost  of  turfy  loam,  a  little  old  Mush¬ 
room  bed  manure,  and  plenty  of  sharp  sand.  Pot  rather  firmly,  water, 
and  set  in  frames  near  to  the  glass.  During  the  winter  they  ought  to 
have  abundance  of  light  and  air,  and  on  no  account  to  be  subjected  to 
much  fire  heat,  mats  and  other  covarings  being  the  best  safeguards  against 
severe  frosts. 
Plantlngr  out  Carnations. — No  time  should  be  lost  in  getting 
either  seedlings  or  plants,  raised  from  cuttings  or  by  layering,  into  their 
flowering  quarters.  A  damp  or  low  position  does  not  suit  them.  They 
thrive  best  in  slightly  raised  beds,  to  the  soil  of  which  has  been  freely 
added  a  good  thickness  of  sandy  loam  and  a  little  short  sweet  manuie. 
These  beds  ought  really  to  have  been  prepared  for  eome  time  previous  to 
planting,  in  order  that  the  soil  should  be  well  sweetened  and  pulverised. 
Nor  should  planting  be  attempted  in  wet  weather,  as  it  is  of  importance- 
that  the  soil  be  well  pressed  about  the  roots  without  causing  it  to  bind 
badly.  Slightly  raised  beds  6  feet  wide  may  hold  five  rows  of  plants  pot 
out  about  12  inches  apart.  A  sharp  look-out  must  be  kept  for  slugn, 
frequently  stirring  among  the  plants  serving  to  keep  these  down,  and  if 
the  frosts  loosen  the  plants,  as  they  often  do,  then  must  the  soil  be  es- 
often  pressed  about  the  roots  again.  Much  of  this  upheaving  may,  how¬ 
ever,  be  prevented  by  mulching  the  beds  with  either  leaf  soil,  spent  tan, 
or  old  Mushroom  bed  manure. 
Pinks. — These  also  should  be  planted  out  in  beds  directly  they  are 
sufficiently  well  rooted  to  bear  removal  with  a  trowel.  Raised  beds  may 
well  be  fi  rmed  for  trees,  the  soil  being  prepared  much  as  advised  in  the 
case  of  Carnations.  A  distance  of  9  inches  apart  is  ample.  New 
plantations  are  by  far  the  most  satisfactory,  the  very  old  beds  producing 
a  larger  number  of  flowers  perhaps,  but  of  a  very  inferior  description. 
They  do  not  fill  up  so  rapidly  as  do  Carnations,  and  a  bed  may  be  said  to 
be  at  its  best  when  about  three  years  old.  If  no  steps  have  been  taken 
to  root  a  number  of  cuttings  for  planting  out  now,  old  plants  may  be 
pulled  to  pieces,  and  the  divisions,  whether  furnished  with  roots  or  not, 
be  deeply  dibbled  out  into  well  prepared  soil.  All  should  be  sunk  well 
up  to  tbe  young  leaves,  the  plants  rarely  doing  well  if  any  portion  oF 
the  old  stems  are  exposed. 
Pansies.— Seedlings  grow  and  flower  the  most  freely,  and  if  the 
plants  are  large  enough  to  put  out  into  raised  beds  before  wintry 
weather  sets  in  the  chances  are  a  grand  display  will  be  had  early  next 
season.  Plants  raised  from  either  seed  sown  or  cuttings  inserted  at  this 
late  date  ought  to  remain  under  glass  till  the  spring,  and  these  will 
afford  an  early  summer  display.  Pansy  cuttings  root  very  freely,  anrk 
now  is  a  good  time  to  insert  them,  these  being  selected  from  young 
flowerless  shoots,  and  otherwise  treated  similarly  to  what  will  be  advised 
in  the  case  of  Violas. 
Bedding  Violas.— Of  late  years  this  beantifnl  class  of  bedding  plants 
has  been  enriched  by  the  addition  of  several  charming  varieties,  and  seeing 
how  easily  many  hundreds  can  be  wintered  with  very  little  pi-otection- 
they  ought  to  be  even  more  extensively  grown  than  they  now  are.  Tne 
simplest  way  of  raising  and  wintering  the  requisite  stock  is  to  prepare- 
garden  frames  for  their  reception.  If  these  are  shallow  they  may  be  set 
on  an  old  hotbed,  or  a  bed  may  be  formed  of  exhausted  heatii  g 
materials,  no  bottom  heat  whatever  being  either  required  or  desirable^ 
Some  rough  soil  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom,  or  enough  to  bring  the 
5  inches  of  sifted  sandy  soil  placed  on  the  top  of  it  well  up  to  the  gla^s. 
Deep  frames  can  be  set  on  bricks  or  flower  pots  at  each  corner,  a  few 
barrowloads  of  old  heating  material  being  placed  firmly  in  the  bottom ^ 
and  then  rough  and  fine  soil  on  the  top,  finishing  off  in  this  and  tbe 
other  case  with  a  surfacing  of  sand.  Tbe  best  cuttings  are  those  just 
springing  from  tbe  centres  of  the  old  plants,  and  failing  these  the  tops 
of  old  growths  will  do  nearly  as  well.  Shorten  to  about  3  inches  in 
length,  and  insert  them  that  distance  apart  each  way  all  over  the  bed.. 
