October  1,  1^96. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
33r 
A  watering  should  be  given,  the  light*  put  ©n,  kept  shaded  in  bright 
weather,  and  clo»e  for  some  time,  abundance  of  air  being  given  after 
they  have  commenced  to  form  roots.  A  very  little  protection  will 
suffice  to  preserve  them  from  severe  frosts. 
Calceolarias. — The?e  have  done  good  service  this  season,  and 
abundance  of  good  cuttings  are  to  be  had.  The  firmest  or  most 
short-jointed  fiowerless  shoots  ought  to  be  selected  for  making  into 
cuttings,  the  soft  undergrowth  being  discarded  as  much  as  possible. 
Cut  just  below  the  third  joint,  and  trim  off  the  lowest  pair  of  leaves. 
In  most  other  respects  Calceolarias  ought  to  be  treated  very  similarly  to 
Violas,  no  bottrm  heat  being  given  them.  Not  being  so  hardy  they  will 
require  more  protection  during  the  winter.  If  a  few  dozen  plants  only 
are  needed  these  may  either  be  rooted  and  winter*  d  in  hand-lights  or  in 
boxes  kept  in  cold  frames.  Calceolaria  amplexicaulis  is  alike  the  most 
delicate  and  the  most  beautiful  variety  of  all  for  bedding  purposes,  but 
even  this  must  not  be  unduly  coddled,  fire  heat,  unless  a  little  only  is 
turned  on  in  cold  weather,  being  most  injurious  to  this  class  of  plants. 
Calceolaria  cuttings  may  be  put  in  any  time  before  December,  but  if 
long  delayed  severe  frosts  might  spoil  them. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Spring-  Cabbage. — These  have  grown  well  since  they  were  planted 
in  their  permanent  quarters.  The  first  planted  are  now  ready  for 
earthing.  Some  think  there  is  no  advantage  in  this  operation,  but  it 
keeps  the  plants  firm,  and  prevents  their  shaking  about  in  the  wind, 
which  they  otherwise  do  when  the  heads  become  heavy.  They  are  also 
more  hardy  and  robust  in  winter  if  the  roots  are  growing  in  a  firm  soil, 
and  before  earthing  tread  round  eh'ch  plant  until  the  soil  is  as  firm  as  a 
road.  This  we  have  frequently  proved  is  a  sure  way  of  securing  compact 
plants,  which  are  always  the  most  desirable. 
Xiate  Kidney  Beans.— Some  late  rows  that  are  beginning  to  form 
pods  will  prove  uselul  in  October  and  November  if  they  escape  frost. 
Those  that  have  been  bearing  all  the  season  are  of  little  use  for  a  late 
supply.  Late  Dwarf  Beans  in  the  open  that  are  about  to  flower  must 
have  frames  and  glass  lights  placed  over  as  many  of  them  as  can  be 
protected.  Place  the  lights  over  them  every  night  and  when  it  is  wet, 
but  remove  them  on  fine  days.  If  the  plants  are  crowded  they  will  hold 
too  much  moisture  amongst  the  leaves  to  fruit  well,  and  some  of  the 
plants  should  be  thinned  to  avoid  crowding.  Where  Kidney  Beans  are 
desired  at  Christmas  a  quantity  of  seed  of  Ne  Plus  Ultra  should  be  sown 
in  small  pots  at  once.  Place  them  in  a  cold  frame,  let  them  remain 
there  until  they  are  ready  for  transferring  into  larger  pots,  and  then 
place  them  into  a  warmer  pit  or  house  where  the  atmt  sphere  is  not  too 
close. 
Young  Potatoes  In  Winter. — It  is  surprising  that  those  who 
devote  much  attention  to  the  production  of  choice  vegetables  in  and 
out  of  season  do  not  grow  Potatoes  more  generally  for  a  supply  at 
Christmas.  La'-t  October  we  made  up  a  hotbed  to  hold  a  dozen  lights 
or  frames,  placed  soil  into  them,  planted  early  Potatoes  as  if  it  was  the 
spring  crop,  and  we  had  many  choice  dishes  at  midwinter.  The  position 
must  be  sheltered  and  sunny,  and  the  bed  and  frames  should  stand  at  a 
sharp  angle  to  catch  the  sun  and  escape  damp.  Sharpe’s  Victot  has 
succeeded  well  with  us  in  autumn. 
Saladingr. — The  Lettuce  plants  for  the  winter  supply  are  now 
ready  for  transplanting.  Some  of  them  should  be  placed  into  frames 
at  a  distance  of  6  inches  apart,  but  do  not  protect  them  until  it  is 
necessary.  They  will  soon  establish  themselves  in  good  soil,  and 
can  readily  be  protected  from  frost.  At  the  same  time  plant  a  quantity 
at  the  bottom  of  the  garden  wall,  or  anywhere  that  shelter  is  afforded. 
Endive  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way,  and  in  mild  localities  a  quantity 
may  be  planted  in  the  open  garden.  Winter  Radishes  of  the  China 
Rose  and  Black  Spanish  types  now  showing  should  be  thinned  to 
2  inches  apart.  Mustard  and  Cress  will  not  grow  in  the  open  now,  and 
must  be  sown  under  protection. 
Winter  Spinach. — We  never  had  this  more  promising.  It  is  a 
useful  winter  vegetable,  but  those  who  have  the  plants  crowded  and 
without  thinning  will  find  it  suffer  much  more  from  frost  than  when  it 
is  thinned  in  good  time,  so  that  each  plant  stands  clear  of  the  other. 
These  will  furnish  more  useful  leaves  than  a  crowd  of  plants. 
Vacant  Ground.— Lifting  Potatoes  and  clearing  of  Peas  and  other 
crops  will  leave  some  vacaut  quarters.  These  are  often  allowed  to 
remain  with  the  old  stems  and  roots  in  the  ground  until  midwinter 
or  later,  but  this  is  a  bad  plan,  and  the  best  way  is  to  clear  all  refuse 
off  or  burn  it  on  the  ground,  and  dig  it  roughly  immediately  afterwards. 
This  gives  the  garden  a  good  appearance,  and  is  also  most  beneficial  to 
the  soil. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Fuchsias. — Place  singly  into  3-inch  pots  cuttings  that  are  well 
rooted,  and  keep  them  close  and  shaded  for  a  few  days  until  they  are 
established.  They  csn  then  be  gradually  hardened  and  placed  on  a  shelf 
where  the  winter  temperature  will  not  fall  below  15°.  All  that  is  needed 
is  to  keep  them  slowly  moving,  so  that  they  will  be  in  good  condition  for 
starting  into  growth  early  next  season.  Plants  that  have  flowered  may 
be  stood  outside  to  harden  and  ripen  until  the  approach  of  frost,  when 
they  should  be  sheltered  from  severe  weather  in  a  Peach  house  or  vinery. 
These  plants  are  better  kept  rather  dry  at  their  roots,  and  in  case  of 
heavy  rains  throw  them  on  their  sides. 
French  and  Fancy  Pelargoniums. — The  latest  flowering  plants 
may  be  cut  down  without  delay.  Place  the  plants  in  a  frame  and  syringe 
once  or  twice  daily  according  to  the  weather  until  they  break  into 
growth.  Those  that  are  already  established  will  be  belter  on  shelveu- 
where  abundance  of  air  can  be  given  and  where  the  plants  will  be  close - 
to  the  glass.  In  frames  the  atmosphere  is  often  too  moist  for  them,  and- 
they  grow  weakly  and  the  foliage  becomes  spotted.  The  earliest  should 
have  their  shoots  pinched  for  the  last  time.  Where  special  houses- 
cannot  be  devoted  to  these  plants  the  Strawberry  shelves  in  Peach  houses 
will  be  found  a  capital  position.  Any  that  need  potting  must  be 
attended  to  at  once.  The  soil  should  consist  of  fibry  loam,  sand,  and 
one-seventh  of  manure  pressed  firmly  into  the  pots.  In  addition  we 
use  a  little  soot  and  artificial  manure,  but  very  little  of  the  latter  at 
this  period  of  the  year.  Cuttings  inserted  in  outside  borders  may  be  well 
rooted,  even  if  only  callused  they  can  be  lifted  and  placed  singly  into 
3-inch  pots.  If  well  rooted  place  them  on  a  shelf  and  pinch  out  the 
points  of  the  shoots.  Let  them  have  a  cool  position,  as  injury  results - 
from  forcing  them  into  growth  by  the  aid  of  heat  or  a  close  atmosphere. 
Those  that  are  not  well  rooted  will  do  so  quickly  in  a  temperature  of 
50°,  but  as  soon  as  roots  are  observed  remove  them  to  cool  airy  quarters. . 
Water  the*  e-  plants  with  care,  too  much  will  ruin  them  at  this  seasoo- 
and  throughout  the  winter  months. 
Ctarysantbemums. — Make  provision  for  housing  them  without 
delay,  they  are  not  safe  outside  after  this  date.  Do  not  crowd  the  plants 
when  placed  under  glass,  and  syringe  the  foliage  freely  at  first.  This  is 
the  only  means  by  which  the  plants  can  be  induced  to  retain  their  leaves 
to  the  base.  The  change  from  the  moist  atmosphere  at  night,  which  they 
enjoy  at  this  season  of  the  year,  is  too  great  for  them  when  placed  under 
glass  and  subjected  at  once  to  the  drier  conditions  of  those  structures. 
Select  the  plants,  so  that  special  treatment  can  be  given  them  according 
to  the  time  blooms  are  required.  Those  for  very  late  flowering  should  be 
left  outside,  but  arranged  so  that  some  protection  can  be  given  them  in 
case  of  sharp  frosts.  A  temporary  structure,  where  blinds  can  be  drawn 
over  them  at  night,  insures  their  safety  for  a  b  ng  time.  An  open  shed 
in  which  they  can  be  placed  at  night  and  stood  out  again  in  the  morning 
will  also  do  very  well. 
Continue  to  feed  the  plants  carefully,  avoiding  strong  stimulants  ; 
they  do  more  harm  than  good,  and  often  burn  the  foots  to  such  an 
extent  that  the  flowers  fail  to  develop  properly.  Keep  the  roots  active 
until  the  last. 
Vallotas. — These  make  a  beautiful  display  at  this  season  when  grown 
in  quantity.  We  find  they  succeed  best  when  kept  under  glass  the 
whole  year  round.  After  flowering  they  are  returned  to  the  greenhouse 
and  stood  amongst  Azaleas.  Daring  the  winter  they  are  never  allowed 
to  become  dry.  They  are  equally  as  useful  for  decoration  as  Amaryllises, 
and  well  repay  for  care  and  good  treatment.  Keep  the  foliage  clean, 
especially  from  thrips. 
lilllum  candldum. — Throw  off  the  lights  during  favourable  weather, 
but  as  soon  as  severe  weather  arrives  place  them  where  tbe  temperature 
does  not  fall  below  45°,  and  they  will  quickly  commence  to  throw  up 
their  flower  spikes.  L  Hum  Harris!  is  growing  rapidly.  These  need 
some  care  to  prevent  them  from  drawing  up  weakly.  Place  them  for 
the  present  in  a  light  position  in  the  greenhouse  close  to  the  glass,  where 
they  can  enjoy  air  day  and  night  when  the  temperature  outside  does  not 
fall  to  freezing  point.  Stand  them  on  some  moisture-holding  material, 
and  do  not  allow  them  to  become  dry. 
Azaleas. — Prepare  the  siructure  in  which  these  are  intended  to  be 
wintered.  Clean  the  house  thoroughly.  Tie  and  regulate  climbers  that 
are  on  the  roof  ;  thin  liberally  where  they  have  become  crowded,  so  that 
light  fan  reach  tbe  plants  below.  Wash  the  pots,  and  push  on  the  tying 
of  these  plants  where  tiaired  specimens  are  appreciated.  It  is  a  mistake 
to  delay  the  comp  etion  of  this  work  too  lonsr.  If  tied  at  once  the  shoots 
quickly  assume  a  natural  position  again.  Wash  all  plants  in  a  solution 
of  tobacco  water  if  infested  with  thrips.  Stand  the  plants  on  a  moisture¬ 
holding  base,  and  syringe  them  once  or  twice  daily  to  keep  their  foliage 
*  clean  and  fresh.  No  treatment  is  more  detrimental  to  Azaleas  than  a 
dry  atmosphere. 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
Storing  Comb  Honey. 
This  is  an  important  subject,  as  much  will  depend  on  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  done.  Temperature  and  dryness  are  the  two 
chief  factors  to  be  studied.  Doubtless  the  majority  of  bee-keepers 
ha-ye  at  various  times  experienced  a  difficulty  in  this  respect,  and 
what  is  more  annoying,  after  obtaining  some  well-finished  sections, 
as  was  the  case  this  year  early  in  the  season,  to  find  on  examining 
them  some  months,  or  it  may  be  only  a  few  weeks  afterwards,  that 
the  whole  of  them  are  dripping,  although  when  stored  they  were 
apparently  well  sealed  over  ?  This,  I  find,  is  the  objection  many 
shopkeepers  have  of  dealing  in  comb  honey.  I  was  reminded  of 
this  fact  within  the  past  few  days  when  a  neighbouring  bee-keeper 
showed  me  some  sections  that  had  been  stored  in  a  cool  but 
unfortunately  a  damp  place  for  a  few  weeks.  They  were  in  first- 
class  condition  when  removed  from  the  hive,  but  now  they  are 
worthless  from  a  market  point  of  view,  whereas  had  they  been. 
BBE“KE)EPERK 
,  .  I .  I'-l-T  - 1  - 1  -  I  -  t  .-rn-rr^- I  •  I  - 1 . 1  -  .  --I I  ■ 
