360 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  8,  1896. 
THE  “JOURNAL”— A  PAGE  FOR  YOUNG  GARDENERS. 
The  Journal  is  always  a  source  of  interest  and  instruction  to  all 
lovers  of  the  “  hortus.”  A  correspondent  a  week  or  so  since  conveyed 
forcibly,  I  think,  the  beneficial  results  that  would  accrue  by  devoting  a 
small  portion  of  its  pages  to  the  use  of  the  juvenile  members  of  the 
craft  in  which  to  expound  their  knowledge  of  sabjects  minui  the 
avengeful  criticism  of  the  older  scribes.  I  have  frequently  heard  this 
remarked,  and  I  think  the  weekly  contributions  would  be  quite  equal  to 
the  space  provided  ;  at  least,  I  would  endeavour  to  support  the  proposi¬ 
tion,  and  contribute  my  share  in  making  it  a  success. — H.  T.  C. 
[We  put  the  proposition  of  “  H.  T.  C.”  to  the  test  by  publishing  his 
letter.  Communications  which  are  appropriate  to  our  columns  will  be 
inserted  from  young  gardeners,  and  articles  of  promise  that  may  be 
received  shall  have  sympathetic  attention.  Probationers  have  absolutely 
nothing  to  fear  from  the  “  old  scribes,”  as  all  the  best  of  these  would 
much  prefer  helping  to  hindering  the  young  in  attempts  to  acquit  them¬ 
selves  creditably  in  the  domain  of  garden  literature.  We  will  defend 
the  young  against  unreasonable  assailants  even  among  themselves,  and 
trust  the  seniors  will  not  need  shielding  also  from  the  ardent  juniors. 
Communications  must  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  for 
publication.] 
ROYAL  AQUARIUM  SHOW. 
OCT03EH  6th,  7th  AND  8TH. 
The  show  of  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society,  which  was  held 
on  the  above  dates,  could  not  well  be  termed  a  Chrysanthemum  show, 
as  the  bulk  of  the  display  was  made  up  of  miscellaneous  fruits  and 
flowers  from  the  various  trade  growers.  Doubtless  the  Chrysanthemum 
enthusiasts  are  reserving  themselves  for  the  jubilee  show  next  month. 
Appended  are  the  names  of  the  chief  prizewinners. 
There  were  three  exhibits  in  the  clakS  for  a  group  of  Chrysanthemums 
and  foliage  plants  arranged  for  effect  in  a  space  of  72  superflcial  feet. 
Each  group  was  highly  creditable,  but  that  of  Mr.  H.  J.  Jones,  Hither 
Green,  Lewisham,  deserved  the  premier  award.  Not  only  was  the 
arrangement  excellent,  but  the  flowers  and  the  plants  were  all  of  high 
quality.  Mr.  W.  Wells,  Earlswood  Nurseries,  Redhill,  was  second,  the 
blooms  being  superior  to  those  in  the  first  named,  but  the  arrangement 
lacked  taste  and  finish.  Mr.  G.  Stevens,  Putney,  was  a  creditable  third. 
In  the  class  for  twenty-four  Japanese,  there  was  apparently  only  one 
exhibitor — Mr.  J.  Agate,  Havant,  who  was  adjudged  the  premier  award. 
The  flowers  were  clean  and  fresh,  building  up  a  good  even  stand. 
Amongst  the  best  were  Phoebus,  E.  Molyneux,  Mons.  Geo.  Biron,  Duchess 
of  Wellington,  Mrs.  J,  Lewis,  Emily  Silsbury,  Mrs.  E.  W.  Clark,  Wm. 
Seward,  and  Mrs.  W.  H,  Rees.  Mr.  J.  Agate  was  again  first  in  the  class 
for  twelve  Japanese,  distinct,  showing  The  Graphic,  Wm.  Seward,  Mutual 
Friend,  Pallanza,  Mrs.  Trafford,  Emily  Silsbury,  Wilfred  Marshall, 
Phoebus,  Princess  May,  and  others.  Mr.  J.  Watt,  gardener  to 
H.  Bell,  Esq.,  Hampstead,  was  the  only  other  competitor,  and  received 
second  prize. 
For  six  incurved  Mr.  J.  Agate  was  first  and  Mr.  D.  M.  Hayler,  gardener 
to  W .  Hannaford,  Esq.,  J.P.,  Hendoii,  second,  neither  showing  any  remark¬ 
able  flowers.  Mr.  T.  Tullett,  gardener  to  G.  Alexander,  Esq.,  Brentwood, 
was  first  for  two  vases  of  Chrysanthemums,  followed  by  Mr.  J.  Brookes, 
gardener  to  W.  J,  Newman,  Esq.,  Park  House,  Totteridge,  and  Mr. 
J.  Agate,  each  staging  well.  For  one  vase  Mr.  Hayler  was  first,  Mr. 
Cowell,  St.  Mary  Cemetery,  N.W.,  second,  and  Mr.  T.  Tullett  third. 
Mr.  D.  B.  Crane,  Highgate,  was  well  to  the  front  with  three  epergnes  ; 
Mr.  C.  J.  Gatehouse,  Lewisham,  being  second,  and  Miss  Green,  iun . 
Harold  Wood,  third. 
In  the  amateurs’  class  for  twelve  Japanese  in  not  less  than  six 
varieties,  Mr.  M.  Silsbury,  Shanklin,  Isle  of  Wight,  was  a  decisive  first 
with  Ethel  Addison,  Mons,  Panckoucke,  Snowdrift  (.new),  Emily 
Silsbury,  Phoebus,  Sunflower,  and  some  seedlings  in  good  form.  Mr. 
W.  Ames,  South  Ashford,  Kent,  was  a  capital  second  with  best  blooms 
of  Mons.  Carnot,  E.  G.  Hill,  and  Viviand  Morel.  For  twelve  Japanese, 
distinct,  Mr.  Knapp,  gardener  to  F.  W.  Amsden,  Esq.,  Croydon,  was 
given  the  second  prize.  This  was  the  only  exhibit,  and  the  blooms 
were  of  no  particular  merit.  The  best  amateur's  half  dozen  came 
from  Mr.  M.  Silsbury,  Mr.  Ames  being  second.  The  single-handed 
gardeners’  class  for  six  Japanese,  distinct,  only  brought  one  exhibitor 
(Mr.  Knapp),  who  took  the  first  prize.  The  blooms  staged  were  W.  H. 
Lincoln,  Mons.  A.  Molin,  Madame  Edouard  Rey,  Mrs.  W.  H.  Lees, 
Mons.  C.  Capitant,  ani  Mdlle.  Th^iese  Rey.  Mr.  T.  H.  Calcutt, 
Stoke  Newington,  was  first  for  a  table  of  bouquets,  sprays,  and  wreaths 
with  a  charming  exhibit.  Miss  Green  was  second  ;  and  Miss  Garford, 
Stoke  Newington,  third. 
Miscellaneous  exhibits  were  very  diversified,  numerous,  and  of 
splendid  quality.  Space  precludes  our  giving  details  of  all,  but 
amongst  the  best  were  Dahlias  from  Mr.  S.  Mortimer,  Farnham  ; 
vegetables  from  Mr.  W.  Smith,  Harrow  ;  cider  Apples  from  Mr. 
J.  Watkin,  Hereford  ;  the  Godfrey  Caila  and  superb  Chrysanthemums 
from  Mr.  Godfrey,  Exmouth ;  Apples  and  Pears  from  Messrs. 
W.  Spooner  &  Sons,  Hounslow  ;  various  flowers  from  Mr.  T.  S.  Ware, 
Tottenham;  fruit  from  Messrs.  J.  Laing  &  Sons,  Forest  Hill,  and  Mr. 
H.  Berwick,  Sidmouth  ;  Cannas  from  Messrs.  H.  Cannell  &  Sons, 
Swanley;  Dahlias  and  Chrysanthemums  from  Messrs.  Dobbie  &  Co., 
Rothesay  ;  flower  pots  from  Messrs.  Sankey  &  Sons  (Limited),  Notting¬ 
ham  ;  Zonal  Pelargoniums  from  Mr.  H.  J.  Jones,  Lewisham  ;  Dahlias 
and  fruit  from  Messrs.  J.  Cheal  &  Sons,  Crawley ;  and  Crotons  from 
Mr.  W.  Davies,  Stamford  Hill. 
IE  WEEK.,  p 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Preparing  Soil  for  Planting  Prult  Trees.— The  necessity  for 
forwarding  all  the  heaviest  work  in  connection  with  planting  fresh  young 
trees,  or  lifting  and  replanting  larger  specimens,  is  evident  to  all  who 
desire  the  actual  planting  to  be  thoroughly,  efficiently,  and  promptly  carried 
out.  The  ground  intended  for  fruit  trees  needs  special  and  thorough 
preparation  of  such  a  character  which  cannot  readily  be  performed  in  a 
hurry.  It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  soil  has  to  be  prepared  for 
permanent  occupation,  and  in  such  a  manner  that  the  roots  of  the  trees 
can  advance  and  multiply,  finding  all  the  sustenance  they  need  to  enable 
them  to  do  this.  The  moving  and  breaking  up  of  the  soil  lightens  it 
considerably,  but  early  preparation  affords  ample  time  for  it  to  become 
consolidated  sufficiently,  so  that  planting  may  be  carried  out  under  the 
most  favourable  conditions,  which  embrace  fairly  firm,  but  readily 
workable,  fertile  soil. 
Deep  Cultivation.— FtmttvA  fruit  trees  are  not  those  which  have 
all  their  roots  deep  in  the  soil.  The  reverse  is  usually  the  case,  though 
large  trees  must  root  somewhat  deeper,  especially  if  of  standard  form, 
in  order  that  the  trees  may  have  some  holding  power  upon  the  soil. 
The  object,  however,  in  preparing  the  soil  deeply  lies  chiefly  in  the  fact 
that  moisture  can  pass  freely  through.  The  roots  can  thns  ramify  in  a 
medium  which  is  well  aerated  and  not  charged  with  superfluous 
moisture.  Soils  of  a  fair  depth  suffer  less  from  drought  in  dry  summers, 
because  moisture  can  ascend  from  the  subsoil  to  take  the  place  of  that 
which  may  have  passed  away  by  rapid  evaporation,  or  being  used  up  by 
the  roots. 
Trenching. — The  common  method  of  deeply  moving  the  soil  is  to 
trench  it  or  bastard  trench  it.  Trenching  is  the  reversal  of  two  layers 
of  soil,  whereby  the  upper  spit  or  layer  takes  the  place  of  the  lower.  It 
is  only  with  soils  of  an  exceptionally  good  subsoil  or  that  may  have  been 
previously  trenched  that  such  a  course  is  advisable,  because  there  is 
much  danger  of  burying  the  best  material  and  bringing  the  inert  to  the 
surface.  This  liability  is  avoided  when  the  ground  is  bastard  trenched, 
the  operation  being  carried  out  so  that  the  soil  is  deeply  moved,  but 
retains  its  original  position.  This  course  is  certainly  the  best  when  the 
lower  spit  of  soil  has  not  formerly  been  disturbed.  Ip  both  methods 
enriching  materials  may  be  added  if  necessary  and  incorporated  with 
the  staple.  Manure  should  be  well  decayed,  and,  as  a  rule,  sparingly 
applied,  because,  in  the  first  instance  it  is  not  wise  to  make  the  soil  too 
rich,  inasmuch  as  it  induces  growth  which  is  likely  to  be  gross  in 
character.  Good  loam  is  excellent  material  to  add,  being  substantial 
and  lasting.  That  of  a  turfy  and  holding  texture  is  usually  best,  and 
for  stone  fruits  should  be  of  a  calcareous  nature. 
Draining.— When  a  site  for  fruit  trees  is  not  naturally  drained 
provision  must  be  made  to  convey  superfluous  water  from  the 
subsoil  by  drains,  15  to  20  feet  apart,  running  diagonally  into  a  main 
communicating  with  an  outlet. 
Preparing  Borders. — An  ample  extent  of  border  for  wall  trees  is 
secured  by  a  width  of  10  or  12  feet.  In  unfavourable  subsoils  the  base 
ought  to  be  concreted  or  flagged  for  a  distance  of  4  feet  outwards  from  the 
wall,  and  if  made  to  slope  gradually  there  will  be  no  accumulation  of 
water  to  injure  the  roots,  but  it  should  be  able  to  find  its  way  readily  to  a 
proper  outlet.  The  hard  base  will  also  prevent  the  descent  of  the  roots. 
Three  feet  of  good  soil  chiefly  consisting  of  substantial  turfy  loam, 
mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fertile  soil  from  the  site  or  garden  near, 
forms  an  excellent  border.  If  the  natural  soil  is  very  poor  and  cannot 
be  enriched  with  turfy  material,  decayed  manure  may  be  substituted. 
As  a  rule,  soil  that  grows  good  vegetables  will  grow  fruic.  Borders 
may  be  more  liberally  manured  when  not  wanted  for  immediate 
planting,  because  if  a  liberal  dressing  is  applied  of  strong  manure,  it 
has  time  to  become  well  decomposed  and  incorporated  with  the  staple, 
providing  a  sufficient  length  of  time  elapses  to  allow  it  to  do  so.  It  is  a 
question  whether  poor  exhausted  soils  ought  not  to  be  liberally  treated 
for  a  season  or  two,  not  only  as  regards  the  addition  of  manure,  but 
thorough  cultivation,  by  breaking  up  the  soil  and  subsoil  to  the  required 
depth.  This  treatment  would  ameliorate  and  pulverise  the  particles, 
admit  air,  moisture,  and  warmth,  all  essential  for  successful  growth. 
Preparing  Stations, — It  is  not  always  desirable  to  plant  large 
breadths  or  quarters  of  fruit  trees,  for  in  many  instances  only  a  few 
trees  may  be  required  in  positions  more  or  less  wide  apart. 
The  best  plan  to  adopt,  then,  is  to  provide  stations  of  prepared  soil 
6  to  9  feet  in  diameter.  Take  out  the  upper  layer  of  soil,  throwing  it  on 
one  side.  If  the  subsoil  is  very  unsuitable  or  clayey,  remove  it  entirely, 
concreting  the  bottom  and  laying  drain  pipes  across  it,  surrounding  them 
with  small  stones  or  rubble.  The  pipes  should  communicate  with  a 
drain  and  outlet. 
Frequently  in  such  situations  the  stations  are  raised  above  the 
surrounding  level,  providing  about  2  feet  of  good  soil  for  the  trees  to 
root  in.  It  is  only  when  the  subsoil  permits  water  to  accumulate  too 
near  the  surface  that  extra  drainage  precautions  are  necessary. 
