406 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  S2,  IBV  . 
wokkjo^™week. 
HAEDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Koot-pranlngr*— 0«rer-luxariance  in  fruit  trees,  with  a  disposition 
to  be  and  remain  fruitless,  owing  to  the  production  of  strong  wood 
growth,  may  be  corrected  by  judicious  root- pruning.  When  this  work 
is  carried  out  in  autumn  before  the  leaves  fall,  there  is  a  better  chance 
of  the  cut  roots  becoming  properly  healed,  and  probably  emitting  fresh 
fibres  before  winter.  At  any  rate,  early  autumn  root-pruning  has  con¬ 
siderable  efEect,  as  it  largely  prevents  accumulation  of  material  which 
would  cause  the  strongest  growth  the  following  year.  The  most 
powerful  roots,  however,  having  been  checked  by  root-pruning,  the 
energies  of  the  trees  are  distributed,  causing  the  production  of  fibrous 
roots  which  multiply  freely,  and  ultimately  a  fruitful  tendency  will 
ensue. 
Old  Trees. — Root-pruning,  if  not  done  too  severely,  is  really  best 
done  long  before  the  leaves  fall,  but  this  is  not  always  practicable,  hence 
much  has  to  be  done  in  late  autumn  and  winter,  sometimes  approaching 
to  spring.  The  best  method  of  root-pruning  large  old  trees  is  to  operate 
on  half  the  roots  at  a  time,  and  not  to  venture  too  near  the  bole. 
Take  out  a  trench  a  foot  wide  3  to  4  feet  from  stem.  Go  deep  enough 
to  reach  all  roots  which  may  be  descending  either  at  an  acute  angle  or 
perpendicularly.  The  latter  when  very  strong  are  chiefly  the  cause  of 
the  luxuriant  wood.  If  severed  roughly  the  ends  must  afterwards  be 
cut  smoothly.  Where  practicable  raise  all,  especially  it  fibrous,  nearer 
to  the  surface,  laying  them  in  a  horizontal  direction.  Fill  in  the  trench 
with  good  surface  soil,  discarding  that  which  has  been  taken  out  from 
the  bottom  of  a  deep  trench,  inasmuch  as  it  is  usually  of  an  inferior 
character.  The  addition  of  good  loam,  charcoal,  and  wood  ashes,  with 
a  little  decayed  manure  or  sprinklings  of  chemical  manure,  prove 
excellent  for  laying  out  the  roots  in  and  inducing  fresh  growth. 
Young  Trees. — Complete  lifting  and  replanting  in  the  earlier  stages 
of  growth  frequently  obviates  the  necessity  of  root-pruning  later. 
When  found  necessary,  however,  a  trench  may  be  taken  out  all  round 
the  trees  at  a  reasonable  distance  from  the  stem,  cutting  off  but  leaving 
the  ends  smooth  of  alt  the  strong  roots  met  with. 
Renovating  Unfruitful  Trees. — Some  trees  do  not  need  root- 
pruning,  although  unfruitful.  The  evil  may  lie  in  an  impoverished 
state  of  the  soil  and  a  lack  of  roots  therein.  This  may  be  remedied  by 
removing  a  portion  of  soil  from  above  and  among  the  roots,  adding  some 
fresh  compost  ot  a  substantial  character,  turfy  if  possible,  adding  thereto 
a  fourth  of  decayed  manure  and  about  one  pound  of  a  good  general 
chemical  manure  to  every  bushel  of  soil.  This  placed  firmly  about  the 
roots,  laying  the  latter  out  in  it  horizontally  as  far  as  they  will  extend, 
will  materially  impiose  the  future  growth  and  the  capacity  to  bear  crops. 
In  some  cases  simply  the  surface  thin  layer  of  soil  only  needs 
removal,  or  it  may  be  slightly  loosened,  giving  a  dressing  of  artificial 
manure  at  the  rate  of  about  a  pound  to  the  square  yard,  making  sure 
that  the  application  extends  as  far  as  the  roots  do,  which  is  usually  as 
far  as  the  branches  spread  outwards.  Follow  this  with  a  mulching  of 
half-decayed  manure. 
Improving  Fruit  Trees. — In  addition  to  root-pruning  or  renew¬ 
ing  rooting  medium,  thinning  out  and  regulating  branches  is  absolutely 
necessary  wh'=!re  they  are  thickly  placed,  thus  freely  admitting  sunshine 
and  air,  by  which  the  growths  become  thoroughly  well  ripened. 
Permanent  injury  is  caused  both  to  the  capabilities  of  bearing  and 
the  appearance  of  trees  when  they  are  too  closely  placed  together,  the 
branches  growing  into  those  of  adjoining  trees  or  causing  undue  shade. 
Neither  should  deciduous  nor  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs  be  allowed  within 
a  reasonable  distance  of  fruit  trees,  as  their  branches  may  prevent  a 
proper  amount  of  light  reaching  them,  while  the  hungry  roots  appro¬ 
priate  food  and  moisture  from  the  soil.  Belts  of  trees  are  often  found 
useful  as  shelters,  but  neither  roots  nor  branches  should  come  into  com¬ 
petition  with  valuable  fruit  trees. 
Cleaning  Strawberry  Beds. — The  clearing  of  Strawberry 
quarters  which  have  been  deferred  ought  now  to  be  proceeded  with  and 
completed.  Cut  away  the  runners,  uprooting  small  plants  rooted  from 
them.  The  best  of  the  rooted  plants  may  first  be  dug  up  if  stock  for 
fresh  plantations  is  wanted.  Either  plant  them  at  once  in  previously 
prepared  well  manured  quarters,  or  insert  in  nursery  beds  for  the  winter, 
finally  planting  out  in  spring.  It  is  decidedly  best  to  plant  the  strong 
plants  permanently,  and  the  smaller  in  temporary  beds.  Clear  off  weeds 
and  old  decayed  foliage,  not  practising,  however,  severe  defoliation. 
Follow  with  a  liberal  mulching  of  manure  between  the  plants.  As  a 
rule  no  further  attention  is  necessary  until  spring. 
Raspberries. — Old  Raspberry  canes  should  be  cut  out  at  once  if 
not  previously  cleared  off  as  recommended.  The  weakest  of  the  newer 
canes  may  also  be  cut  out,  as  it  is  only  desirable  to  retain  the  strongest 
which  can  be  depended  upon  to  fruit  satisfactorily.  Leave  four  to  six 
at  each  stool,  or  at  equal  distances  apart,  if  planted  in  lines.  Fork  out 
the  strongest  weeds.  Raspberries  enjoy  heavy  dressings  of  rich  manure 
over  the  roots,  applying  now,  and  leaving  to  decay.  The  rains  will  carry 
the  rich  soluble  matters  down  into  the  soil,  providing  appropriate  food 
that  the  mass  of  fibrous  roots  will  readily  make  use  of  with  beneficial 
effects. 
FRUIT  FOROINQ. 
Peacbes  ^and  TSectMinei.— Earliest  Forced  Trm.— Whether 
the  varieties  comprise  Hale’s  Early j  Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George, 
Dymond,  and  similar  second  early  and  midseason  Peaches,  along  with 
Lord  Napier,  Elruge,  and  Dryden  Nectarines  ;  or  consist  of  Alexander 
and  Early  Louise  Peaches  with  Early  Rivers  Nectarine,  the  trees  will 
have  been  at  rest  for  some  time,  and  having  been  dressed  and  everything 
put  into  proper  order,  but  little  beyond  keeping  as  cool  as  possible  will 
be  required  until  starting  them.  If  these  matters  referred  to  in  former 
calendars  have  not  been  attended  to  we  urge  their  being  done  without 
further  delay,  as  the  trees  of  the  varieties  first  named  must  be  started 
about  the  middle  of  November  to  have  ripe  fruit  at  the  end  of  April  or 
beginning  of  May,  but  if  of  the  last  mentioned  varieties  the  house  need 
not  be  closed  until  the  middle  of  December.  This  is  a  clear  gain  of  on& 
month’s  time  and  expense  in  forcing  Peaches  and  Nectarines. 
Succession  Houses. — The  trees  will  be  in  various  stages  of  maturing^ 
the  foliage  according  to  the  time  of  starting, but  this  must  not  be  hurried 
by  removing  the  leaves  forcibly.  If  ripening  tardily,  admit  air  freely  at 
night,  keeping  the  houses  rather  close  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  and 
maintaining  a  dry  atmosphere,  seek  gradual  maturation,  when  the  leaves 
will  part  freely  from  the  trees.  When  the  leaves  are  all  down  unfasten 
the  trees  from  the  trellis,  perform  any  pruning  required,  cleanse  the 
house  thoroughly,  paint  the  woodwork  and  trellis  if  necessary,  and 
dress  the  trees  with  an  insecticide.  Secure  the  trees  to  the  trellis, 
leaving  room  in  the  ligatures  for  the  branches  to  swell,  as  tight  tying  i» 
one  of  the  most  prevalent  causes  of  gumming.  Remove  the  surface  soil 
down  to  the  roots,  and  supply  fresh  loam  rather  stiff,  sprinkling  a> 
handful  of  a  mixture  of  steamed  bonemeal  and  wood  ashes  in  equal 
parts  on  each  square  yard,  scratching  in  lightly  with  a  fork.  If  wood 
ashes  are  not  suitable,  use  two  parts  sulphate  of  potash,  one  part 
sulphate  of  magnesia,  and  half  part  sulphate  of  iron  to  three  parts 
steamed  bonemeal,  mixed,  and  4  ozs.  of  the  mixture  per  square  yard. 
Give  a  thorough  supply  of  water  to  inside  borders  of  houses  with  fixed 
roofs,  but  it  is  better  to  remove  the  roof  lights  and  allow  the  borders  to 
become  thoroughly  soaked  by  the  autumn  rains. 
Any  lifting  and  root-pruning  of  trees  not  in  a  satisfactory  state 
should  be  attended  to  whilst  the  leaves  are  upon  the  trees,  not,  however, 
until  the  foliage  becomes  mature,  and  then  acting  with  dispatch.  If 
fresh  trees  have  to  be  introduced  it  should  be  performed  when  they  are 
safe  for  removal — namely,  when  the  leaves  part  readily  from  them,  or  as 
soon  as  they  are  nearly  off  the  trees.  The  best  description  of  trees  for 
planting  in  houses  are  those  three  or  more  years  trained  to  walls  or  to 
trellises  under  glass,  and  prepared  for  safe  lemoval  by  annual  or  biennial 
lifting.  Such  trees  transplant  sa*ely  with  abundance  of  fibre.  Care¬ 
fully  planted  they  can  be  forced  the  first  year  with  every  confidence  of 
a  crop  if  not  started  before  the  new  year,  not  brought  on  too  rapidly, . 
and  not  overcropped.  It  is  always  desirable  to  select  trained  trees  in 
bearing  in  preference  to  planting  young  trees  that  are  not  furnished 
with  some  bearing  wood,  but  if  young  trees  must  be  planted  choose  such- 
as  have  a  well-furnished  base,  free  from  gumming,  not  very  strong  in  the- 
wood,  and  that  well  matured. 
Late  Houses. — The  fruit,  except  on  a  few  of  the  latest  trees,  is  now 
nearly  all  gathered,  and  the  wood  that  has  borne  fruit  and  not  required 
for  extension  should  be  cut  out,  as  nothing  is  so  prejudicial  to  late  trees- 
as  too  much  wood.  If  the  trees  are  young  and  not  ripening  the  wood 
well,  form  a  trench  about  one-third  the  distance  from  the  stem  the  trees- 
cover  in  height  of  trellis  and  down  to  the  drainage,  so  as  to  detach  the 
roots,  and  after  remaining  open  a  fortnight  fill  the  trench  firmly,  adding 
calcareous  matter  to  the  soil  if  deficient  of  that  substance.  This  will 
check  the  tendency  to  late  growth  and  induce  wood  ripening.  The 
surface  soil  in  the  undisturbed  portion  should  be  removed  down  to  the 
roots,  supplying  fresh  material  or  replacing  the  old  soil  after  adding 
some  calcareous  matter,  and  give  a  good  watering.  The  trees  will  push 
fresh  roots  and  ripen  the  wood,  but  lifting  must  not  be  practised  whilst 
the  wood  is  soft  and  the  leaves  green  and  sappy,  or  the  check  will  cause 
the  wood  to  shrivel.  Trees  judiciously  operated  upon  at  the  roots- 
invariably  set  the  blossoms  well  after  operations  of  this  character,  the 
roots  in  lifting  being  laid  in  again  carefully  and  kept  well  up  to  the 
surface. 
Figs _ Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots.—  Figa  are  receiving  more 
attention  now  than  for  some  time  past,  which  is  not  to  be  wondered  at, 
as  ripe  Figs  are  very  wholesome,  and  early  fruit  very  much  prized  for 
dessert.  Trees  intended  for  affording  fruit  at  the  close  of  April  or  early 
in  May  will  now  need  dressing  with  an  insecticide,  all  those  advertised 
being  efficacious  when  properly  applied — that  is,  the  instructions 
implicitly  followed.  Very  little  pruning  will  be  necessary,  the  trees 
having  been  regularly  stopped  during  the  growing  season,  but  if  the 
growths  are  too  crowded  and  irregular  they  may  be  thinned  to  render 
the  trees  symmetrical.  The  house  in  which  the  trees  are  forced  should 
have  the  woodwork  and  walls  washed  with  hot  water,  afterwards 
limewashing  with  hot  lime  and  sulphur,  a  handful  of  the  latter  to 
each  pailful  of  limewash.  A  mild  bottom  heat  is  almost  a  necessity 
to  a  successful  swelling  and  perfecting  of  the  earliest  crop,  the  pots 
being  raised  upon  loose  brick,  pedestal  fashion,  in  the  position  they  are 
to  occupy  in  the  bed,  and  so  that  the  runs  of  the  pots  will  be  slightly 
above  the  level  of  the  pit  edges.  The  depth  of  the  pit  should  be  about 
3  feet,  and  filled  with  Oak  or  Beech  leaves  pressed  firmly.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  prevent  overheating. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — The  trees  should  be  untied  from 
the  trellis  when  the  leaves  are  all  down  and  the  needful  pruning  effected. 
'  Those  with  the  roots  restricted  to  small  borders  will  only  require  to  hav& 
